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Main Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 236
  • Aka: Rubble Wall

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Description

Highest climbs in the quarry. Beware, some of these routes are seldom climbed and full of choss.

Access issues inherited from Mountain Quarry

The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car.

Routes

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Grade Route

Warning Access: Rebolting

The highest, and one of the better lines in Perth; a real crowd pleaser. Pitch One. Climb the great white streak a few metres left of BA. Leave the ground with difficulty, then crank, dyno or static up the overhanging wall with 4BR. Ascend the slab on 3BR and do not think about Napoleon surrendering to his accountant when surmounting the mantle of despair. Bog on up the second overhanging escalade with 7BR to DBB. Feel for the hidden holds over the final lip. Pitch Two. 15m 21. Balance up the arête with 5BR to DBB. J. Truscott, M. Rosser

FA: M.Rosser J.Truscott (Alt), 2003

Start between “Shield of Achilles” and “Barren Awakening”. Stick clip the first bolt. Follow expansion bolts and climb up! Lower off fixed biner on 2nd last bolt and lower off ring at last bolt. Delicate, technical and surprisingly good climbing. No idea how this line survived so long without being bolted. Sneaky foot work will get you past the starting moves to a quarry classic mantle. Then a technical crux at the underclings where body position not biceps are the key. Delicate R&R Master slab climbing takes you to the finish.

FA: Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, 2011

Start at weakness directly belloe left edge of overlap. Crux is at 3rd RB (can be aided at 23M1). Follow grooves (can use small wires), up to a flake and upper crux.

A free version of Learning to Fly (though the exact line goes more straight up than LTF)

Logan's description in 2011:

"Finally freed the direct line of bolts Richard kindly put in straightening out Learning to Fly 23 (A0) on the back wall of Mountain Quarry. Has a pretty hard boulder prob at the start (where the A0 move is on LTF) and then another hard boulder at about 3/4 height where the line has been punched straight up over a triangle feature instead of traversing way around right. Hard to grade since its really just two seperate problems which felt about V6/7/8ish? each to me. Be good to hear some comments from others who have tried it."

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/05/unchipped-route-in-perths-big-chip-and.html

FA: Logan Barber

Powerful moves. Stick clip required for first FH. The hanger spins and is hard to stick clip.

FA: Ross Weiter, 2003

FA: Neil Gledhill

Old deathroute. First pitch now hopelessly entwined in new bolted routes.

Well protected but not straightforward. Start at the bottom of Finger Licking Awful crack and follow this to top, trending L. Up face past 2 bolts then L to shallow vertical grove (large nut), then traverse L along crack with bush to Rage, then up to anchors of Rage. Trad gear and 2 GIMBs.

FA: Richard Wainwright, 2013

Pitch 1: nice moves up the first face and slab, run-out scramble followed by another nice slab. 5 CB and optional small/mid-size gear. Belay below the overhang (small/mid gear in cracks on the ledge, or use the single CB below the overhang if desperate). Pitch 2: directly up through the overhang, right across the slab and up the arete. 4 CB, 1 FH to anchor chains.

Set: Jim Truscott & Matthew Rosser, 2005

(1) 30m Slab with carrots to DBB. (2) 12m Headwall to DBB, FHs.

Start just R of Psychopath. Trend right past 5 FHs (crux), then trad climb up the corner above (gr.12). Just before top of corner traverse R onto face and up to lower-offs just below the arête of On Edge. Cams up to #0.75 Camalot, nuts all sizes. 5 FH, then trad gear.

Loose large blocks at top.

FA: Ross Weiter & Dena Rao, 1 Nov 2016

Start from top of P1 of Psychopath or Adventure Line.

FA: Gary Matier & Matt Rosser, 1993

5 BRs plus natural gear.

Start on the left of the thick red band in the rock. Nice easy climb with plenty of GIMBs to two ring bolts 3/4 the way up. Second pitch is short and runout. Could be done in one pitch.

Start at the crack on the arete right of the red band.

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