★ Sex, Cigarettes and Chardonnay 19

Pitch 1: nice moves up the first face and slab, run-out scramble followed by another nice slab. 5 CB and optional small/mid-size gear. Belay below the overhang (small/mid gear in cracks on the ledge, or use the single CB below the overhang if desperate). Pitch 2: directly up through the overhang, right across the slab and up the arete. 4 CB, 1 FH to anchor chains.