Mt Alexander, Rock climbing

BLDV

VB-VB VB+V0-V0 V0+V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V7 V9 V11

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Description

Mt Alexander is a granodiorite peak rising ~350m above the surrounding area (744m above sea level). The rock quality varies from very good, smooth and solid, to coarse and friable in places.

There are a number of sports climbs, trad climbs, and boulder problems.

Access issues

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Approach

Gentle 5-10 min

The mount is ~125km north of Melbourne. Approach on the Calder Freeway (M79), and take the Harcourt exit.

To reach the southern crags/boulders:

From the "town centre" drive south on the Calder Highway (C794), turn left on Farraday-Sutton Grange road and then left again on Joseph Young Drive.

To reach to northern crags/boulders:

Either follow Joseph Young Drive across the mountain, or: drive north from the "town centre" on Calder Highway (C794) to turn right on Market Street, and then left on Reservoir road. Going straight on at the left turn takes you to the Oak Forest (mountain bike park) which is the access point for some areas.

Ethic

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.