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Scorpion Rocks

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Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Approach

Walk down the Goldfields Track from either Dog Rocks or Land of the Overhangs parking areas.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

At the far left of Scorpion rocks right on the Goldfields Track. Stand-start and climb the gorgeous steep slab. Move slightly right at the start, but then head back left using a small powerful undercut. Finish direct up the right side of the nose - don't use the crack/holds left of the nose. A great climb.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 11 Nov 2019

Same start as for The Shining Wall, but at the nose head left and finish up the crack on the other side of the nose. Both climbs share the same powerful crux but Fire Escape takes an easier finish.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 11 Nov 2019

Sit-start and climb the arete left of The Shining Wall.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 11 Nov 2019

Sit-start and climb the arete behind The Shining Wall boulder. Follow the arete all the way up and left as it flattens out.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 11 Nov 2019

Awkward to get started, then a lazy highball to the top

FA: Athol Whimp, 2006

The name says it all. Finger-size layback crack leading to an awkward pull over the top.

FA: Chris Cope & Mick Jaeger, 1993

The obvious left-hand sloping crack, sustained.

FA: Phil Robertson & Phil Robertson

Launch off log into sustained insecure moves. Best route on wall.

Originally lead from the ground. Now easier off the fallen tree. Lovely sustained smearing and “dime-sized” edges lead past 4BRs.

FA: Chris Cope & Mick Jaeger

Start 4m left of Poised To Strike. Quiver your way past 2 carrot bolts on excellent fine-grained granite.

FA: Nick de Kam, 2004

Directly above SANDBAGGERS WALL is an amazing square cut quartz seam. This is the very short crack in the overhanging roof starting off blocks.

FA: Phil & Clare Robertson, 1992

Crack in the middle of a small boulder. Difficult jam start. Anchor off solid tree branches on top.

FA: Chris Cope & Phil Robertson

Nice crack climb with a difficult jamming start. It relents quickly to enjoyable jams and layaways on smooth granite.

FA: Sam North & Jim Small, 2000

I’ll Stick Around 12m 24 Superb thin face, with a delicate crux. 3FHs (1st and 3rd require small ‘biners)

FA: Kent Paterson; kp, 2000

Very sustained crimping on edges and small pockets. 3FHs

FA: Kent Paterson, 2003

A sharp little testpiece that required a lot of effort before the FA fell. 3FHs (the 1st requires a small 'biner). The 3rd clip is desperate and a long pre-placed draw is recommended.

FA: Kent Paterson

A good introduction to the thin pocketed face climbing featured on this wall. Start as Territorial Pissings (1 FH requires small 'biner) trending right past 2 FHs.

FA: KP & Al Rob, 2004

FA: Kent Paterson; kp, 2005

FA: kp & douglas hockly

The brother to Live Forever. Sit start at the jugs on the left hand side and traverse right and up to finish up the mantle of Live Forever. Really good.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 9 Apr 2015

Sit start and traverse leftwards to a tricky finish.

Sit-start and climb up the overhang to the slot at the top of the feature. Great quality rock. An unusual style of climb for Mt Alex.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 19 Apr 2015

Sit start with opposing side pulls. Compress your way up using kneebars and finish matched on slot. All holds on this block are in.

FA: Ashton Miller, 30 Jul

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Climb the arete.

FA: Ashley Sankey

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Sit-start and head up and left via small holds.

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Sit-start right of The Leaning and make a long move to a crimp with your right. Move up to a left crimp and then out to a small right pocket. From here, move left to the arête and top out around it. An easier variation heads to the left arete after the first move.

Inside the split boulder, climb the central crack/groove feature.

FA: Ashley Sankey

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Match the sloper and top out.

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Up face from sitting.

Climb the left arete/crack without the side wall.

Climb the slab between Pan and Hook.

Climb the right arete.

Stand-start and climb the face.

As the name implies. Up the loose line of holds. Sit-start.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 8 Apr 2020

Sit-start and climb the checkerboard feature. No arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 8 Apr 2020

Sit-start and climb the right arete of the checkerboard feature.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 8 Apr 2020

Sit-start and climb the nice slab direct.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 8 Apr 2020

Sit-start (don't use the medium sized mossy block in front of you for your hands or feet) and go out to the nose, up and left to finish with a rock-over using a good foothold out left. Nice moves but loose grains on the surface.

FA: 8 Apr 2020

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