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Roadside boulders

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Description

A little collection of boulders along the side of the road just before the right hand turn into Joseph young road when travelling from Harcourt. Grades up to v8.

Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Approach

Park in the little car park on the right just after the turn into Joseph Young drive if approaching from the north. From here, walk back down the road for ~100m to get to the boulders.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Stand-start and make a one-move-wonder to the good large hold where the arete flattens out. Mantel to finish. So named because the slabby arete above is where the real problem should go.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

Stand-start and reach a small positive edge using crimps. From here, better holds lead to a big move to a large blob, and then the top.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

Stand-start. Climb directly up the scoop, and then head out left via a small crimp on the face. From here, finish direct.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

Climb the arête from a stand-start. Pinchy moves lead to a throw to a good hold. From here head left to finish up the slab.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

AKA I touched the holds and hope they stayed on the face. It’s actually really cool and the holds held 4 ascents up front so that’s a start! Stand start via the pedestal then up via edges and the worrying looking layaway to finish direct or slightly right from the epic jug up high. Get a spot to keep you from breaking your back and or head on the lurking boulder of justice.

Sit-start avoiding the large detached blocks to the left and right. Climb the obvious line of broken features to gain better holds and the top. Easier from a stand-start.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

Sit start on the detached block to the right of Moisture for the dead. Climb up the detached block only, keeping left and close to the crack separating the blocks.

Sit-start and climb the arete using the diagonal crack.

FA: Ash Sankey, 2010

Sit-start using the undercut with the right hand. Lean a long way leftwards to use a pinch on the diagonal crack. Use this to cross over for a crimp above with the right hand before topping out on the far left arete. Stretchy and powerful

FA: Pete Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

From undercling rock up and left to high diagonal incut in crack. Then straight up to top out. Reachy and grade or two harder if short arms.

FA: Zach Azeez, 29 Nov

Sit-start on the undercut to reach a poor hold on the face. From here, a lunge up and leftwards gains the top. Feet stay on the block for the lunge.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

Start as for National Park using the undercut and side-pull below. Right hand goes to a hold on the face. Hold the tension (feet on block) and get a higher hold with the left hand. From here, get your left foot up, steady and then go to the top with the left hand. Top section is a lot easier for the tall. Use the block for feet at the start but you get established with a higher left foothold prior to going for the top (unless you're a giant).

FFA: Peter Reynolds, 9 May 2017

FA: Peter Reynolds, 9 May 2017

Sit-start just right of National Park with a lefthand undercling and righthand sidepull. Use the huge blocky foothold. Climb up through the nose on big holds via big moves.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2011

Start as for 'Babymoon' but do not use the huge blocky foothold. Climb up and rightwards without using the nose via a sharp round pocket to finish direct. This can be climbed using the huge blocky foothold at around V5/6.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2011

Sit-start on the lowest two side-pulls and climb the overhanging face on positive holds. Holds right of the arête (on the slab) are out of bounds. Top out to finish.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

FA: Toby Roberts, 2010

FA: Toby Roberts, 2010

Sit-start and climb the low rounded arête

Opposite the boulder with St James, etc. facing away from the road.

FA: James Reynolds, 2010

Use the crack of St Toby to climb the slab to the left of that problem

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

Stand-start and climb directly up the discontinuous crack. Avoid holds on the surrounding climbs.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

Check the crack before sticking your fingers in! Funnel webs (possibly trapdoor spiders) have set up home in this crack (July, 2018). Inspect for circular, tube like webs in the crack

Sit-start and climb the crack

Climb is facing the road, on the boulder opposite Gyroscopic Flop.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

Sit-start and climb up the slab. Don’t stray too far left.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

Start L on the big two handed jug and traverse R-wards along the rail it is attached to. Burly moves lead to the bottom of Crowbar not required. Smack a heel under the flake and shimmy your way up the sketchy flake to top out

Sit-start and climb the arete using the large loose flake. Don't stray too far left

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

Sit-start and make a big move left to a crimp around the side of the bloc. Use this to rearrange your feet to allow a direct finish up the left-hand arête. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

Sit-start on crimps and then reach rightwards to the arête which is climbed to finish. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

SDS with two hands on jugs - finish to the right.

FA: Jamie

SDS on same holds as "Frog in the Fog". Head to the top and traverse left around the arete. Head up once you are established on the good jug foothold on the left.

FA: Jamie

Sit-start on the largest holds in the low break (not quite at the far right-hand end). Traverse leftwards, slapping and heel-hooking, until better holds permit a reachy rock-over to finish. Nice line but tricky to keep your feet off the ground.

FA: Pete Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010

Sit start using any hold you want and head straight up.

FA: Jason Moody, 15 Jun 2019

Climb the slab from a small ledge. Stand-start.

FA: Charlie Creese, 2004

Stand-start to the right of SSatH. Climb the slab directly via some thin moves

FA: Charlie Creese, 2004

Stand-start and climb the arête which eases at the top. Since tree fell against arete start now considerably more awkward and more like V2.

FA: Charlie Creese, 2004

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