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Artful Dodger

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 26

Seasonality

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Description

A few good boulders just up Joseph young road when coming from Harcourt.

Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Approach

Park in the little car park on the right just after the turn into Joseph Young drive.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Jump for the small slanting sidepull on the arete with your right hand. Get established on the large rail above before topping out over the upper arete

FA: Martin Lama

Possibly the best line in the area. Climb the gorgeous arete using small but positive holds. Stand start using the big undercling with the right hand.

FA: Simon weill

Stand start with left hand in the open corner and right hand on a low crimp. Punch up for better holds on the arete with the right hand, then technical moves allow a crimp on the front face to be got with the left hand. Carry on directly up the face/arete (still tricky). A fantastic climb.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014

Climb the arete/slab on the slabby left-hand side. Eases at the finish.

FA: Martin Lama

Climb the arete on the steep right-hand side. A tricky stand-start eases after a few moves

FA: Martin Lama

Stand on the large boulder to the right of Lama's V3, pull on to the wall and grab the large ledge below the top. Top out. Height dependent. A bit weird really.

Overhanging arete on the boulder right of the main boulder. Short. Opposite Lama's V1. Not on the bolus boulder.

Start on the boulder to the right of the Bolus boulder. From a good hold on the right arete, traverse from R to L (tricky move in the middle) ending up on the Bolus boulder. Finish easily. I was there. The rock was there. I thought I may as well climb it. It may well have been done before. Most probably by me!

FA: Peter Reynolds, 22 Jul 2018

Various problems and eliminates up to V4

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