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Outer Kingdom

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Summary

In a galaxy far far away...

Description

Or maybe not so much...

Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Approach

Wander West over the back of the Kingdom and be astounded.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

History

History timeline chart

As with all dark past on the hill Charlie Creese features heavily as both the source and the inspiration. Recent work done by Garry Williams, Pete Reynolds, Mark Rewi and others.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

About 100m north of the Tantalus boulder. Stand-start with high left-hand crimp and low right-hand undercling. Get to the juggy ledge on the right then rock over to the left.

FA: Jamie, Nov 2021

Stunning compression line from a stand start.

FA: Garry A Williams, 2020

Sit start to Tantalus. Overall, no harder than the original but the sit start adds some nice moves and a little fatigue.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 26 Sep 2021

Fantastic high knife blade arete around right from Tantalus. It is climbed from a sit-start on its left side all the way. Committing.

Climb crack and block just right of outer edge through small overlap. V2/3 from an awkward sit.

A bit gritty. On the boulders approximately 50m NW of Tanatalus. Sit start under the arete with obvious groove/flake feature. Much easier from a stand.

The arete right of Hollow Arete. Stand start on the lowest side pulls and make some tricky moves.

The obvious easy scaled wall NW of and facing Tantalus. Sit/stand/whatever.

Cool low ball! SDS left hand on arete and right-hand on good crimp in middle of face. Pull on and slap up the right arete before rocking over onto the left face.

FA: Jamie, Nov 2021

Sit start inside the split egg of meteor hammer. Climb vertical left arete of the back half of the split egg.

Climb the downhill ramp of meteor hammers split egg on the north side. Cute.

Sit start and climb up the prow.

FA: Garry A Williams, 2020

The arguably slightly harder southern ramp of the meteor hammer boulder. Sit start and go all the way out the front to finish.

Sit start (crimp around the corner for left hand) and climb the fridge block. Can be done from a stand at around V1.

FA: Garry A Williams, 2020

About 20m east of the Meteor Hammer boulder. Stand-start on left arete with good crimps. Move diagonally up toward the right arete before committing to the sloping top out.

FA: Jamie

Stand start and climb the arete on the left-hand side. Don't use the detached block at the base for your feet at this grade.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 28 Sep 2021

Stand-start and climb the nose feature. You might find yourself a cheval at one point.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 3 Oct 2021

Hanging start and climb the nice feature. Campus first move.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 3 Oct 2021

Stand start and climb the obvious crack.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 3 Oct 2021

Stand start with hands below shoulder height and climb the short blunt arete. On the backside of the same boulder as Whale Jaw etc.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 3 Oct 2021

Areas

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Routes

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Grade Route

Ian and James couldn't pick a name between them. Luckily Charlie saved the day! Nice west facing diamond shaped face with a big slope jug rail to start below the monster. Sit start left end of rail and straight up.

FA: James Lannan

As for Gretel to the pockety hold then hard right to jug on arete then up. Originally climbed from a stand but a sit start is better.

SS as for Gretel, work to right hand end of rail and up to arete then top. Has also been climbed swinging from the rail low under the arete.

FA: James Lannan

Steep Lowball directly opposite James and Ians problems. Undercling and RH side pull (big flake and detached chock near flake are out for feet). Up to slopey lip and awkward mantle.

Has a touch of the Lisa Machete. Start laying away with both hands at base of the crack left of red rocket. One hard pull to get established then up crack and groove.

Sit start matched on the good low jug. Gaston, heel hook, and sharp edges up the arete. No rocking over early - top out at the apex.

A little bit gritty but the moves are decent.

Starting left of the crack on good edges. Mantle the long positive edge. Crack sidepulls are in but not that helpful. Sidewall is adjacent boulder and out?

Perfect hand-fist sized crack located in the gully downhill of the walk-in to Outer Kingdom.

Sit start on undercling incut out right, below generous ledges. Go straight up: traversing left to the arete feels like another line but it's not eliminated. Tension through thin crimps via a funky kick. Dicey top, don't coast off.

FA: Garry A Williams, 2022

Layback the crack. Stand-start below the crack and climb it on its left side.

FA: Bron Holdgate & Jamie, Nov 2021

A cool-looking three-stacked rock. Sit-start with left hand on arete and right-hand undercling. Climb directly up and over the boulder.

FA: Jamie & Bron Holdgate, Nov 2021

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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