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Access issues inherited from Mt Alexander

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Approach

The Kingdom Boulders is on the right side of Joseph Young drive between Artful Dodger area and the summit. It is obvious by the road near an old quarry. Park thoughtfully by the side of the road.

Ethic inherited from Mt Alexander

Do not bolt highball problems except with agreement of the first ascentionist. In general, keep bolting to a minimum. Since 2010 there was been almost zero bolting of new routes.

Areas

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Routes

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What's in the crack?! Is it nice, or is it mean? Or is it in between?

Sit-start, and beware.

FA: Jamie

Stand start up the left arete.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2012

Climb the central line.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2012

Sit start and climb the arete. Don't go too far onto the left face and use the jugs/cracks.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2012

Starting on the right face of "Saturday to Sunday" Sit Start, Left hand Sloped under cling / Right hand on opposing corner. Compress (fridge hug) your way up using slopers and heels until you can throw to the horn followed by an easy top out.

Set: James Roberson & Brynn Clayton, 3 Jun 2020

Stand start and climb the slab and groove. The crux is topping out on small holds and slopers, before reaching left to a good hold. A great line.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 27 Jan 2015

Sit start and climb the crack around the corner from 'Pemberley'.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 27 Jan 2015

Sit start using arete and crack feature to top out straight up. Note the climb down is probably harder than the climb up.

Ascend right side of slab - up and over. Don't escape right.

FA: Jamie

Aptly named after the long red ant which waged war upon my sandals. Stand start and ascend left side of slab.

FA: Jamie

Excellent handholds, some crumbly feet, and nice moves. Stand start as for "Long Red Ant" and move left around the arete. Top out once hands are at highest point with left heel hook.

FA: Jamie

Sit start and climb up the groove.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014

Short but sweet

FA: Hiro Nishikawa, 27 Sep 2014

Stand start off large sidepull and swing left

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 23 Dec 2012

Up the easy wall.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 23 Dec 2012

Delete this problem

A bit committing slab problem.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 25 Oct 2014

Stand start and climb the ramp.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Feb 2015

To the right of step up left.

FA: Ash Sankey, 4 Feb 2015

Climb the wide crack

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2009

Climb the slab.

FA: Ash Sankey, 4 Feb 2015

Stand start on the edge of the slab and make a big rockover. Finish up Slurpee Chucker.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Feb 2015

Climb the obvious slab on the boulder to the right of the Her Majesty boulder.

FA: Ash Sankey, 4 Feb 2015

sitstart and make the low traverse leftwards on the overhanging arête on coarse holds until the end of the arete and then make a big move up and right to jugs. Finish there.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 5 Feb 2012

Stand-start about half way up with a good crimp for the right hand on the face and left hand on/near the arete. Climb the arete. Don't step on the adjacent boulder at the top.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2013

Sit-start and climb the arete left of Scar Issue. Start straddled and then rock around to the right-hand side after a few moves.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 15 Aug 2018

Sit-start to Dark Scar but really it's a different problem - only one of the handholds and footholds is shared between the two problems. Start on the left-hand sidepull and right crimp. Move up to the obvious crimp with the right hand, nice footwork then allows the higher left-hand crimp to be reached. From here launch up and right with the right hand to where the lip flattens out (where the water bottle is in the photo). You could cheat and grab the left arete - don't do that! You can use the big foothold near the arete though - that's fine. A nice addition.

FA: Peter Reynolds, 15 Aug 2018

Stand-start at left hand end of the smooth overhanging wall. Pull off ground with your right foot on the wall, hold the position stable and then move directly to top and mantle over. One move wonder.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 5 Feb 2012

Deep Wounds leads (in)to Dark Scars. Sit-start on the right side with right hand on jug, traverse left, and mantel.

FA: Dave C, 2019

Traverse left to right.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 12 Feb 2012

Sit start and climb arete. A great climb.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 12 Feb 2012

Stand-start.

FA: Jamie

Stand start and move around arete to a precarious finish.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2009

Sitstart and move up to top out on the right arete. Hard.

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014

Stand start and climb Parallel Lives but top out to the left not right,

FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 8 Dec 2013

Fun fact: Parallel analysis is a statistical tool used to identify the quantity of latent higher-order factors or components to retain in an exploratory factor analysis or principal components analysis, respectively.

Sit start. Swing around right and over - finish once on the ledge. To the top of the boulder is possible, but it is mossy.

FA: Jamie

Sit start. Straight up.

Sit start layback on and then up the questionable flake

When your route gets lost between the lichen and the moss. Stand start on two edges. Then delicately up on crimps to the left.

Sit start on jug to the left of arete reach to sidepull on the right then up over the ledge to top out.

Sit start on manky flake. Up to large sidepull traverse right then mantle. Don't step on the boulder to the right of the finish while mantleing.

Sit start hands on large ledge to left of arete. Up to large jug then some delicate moves for the mantle.

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