Routes in Mt Alexander for selected grade

AKA I touched the holds and hope they stayed on the face. It’s actually really cool and the holds held 4 ascents up front so that’s a start! Stand start via the pedestal then up via edges and the worrying looking layaway to finish direct or slightly right from the epic jug up high. Get a spot to keep you from breaking your back and or head on the lurking boulder of justice.

Sit start and climb the wall directly to top out via Sidney Crosby. Big foothold at start of SC is out.

From undercling rock up and left to high diagonal incut in crack. Then straight up to top out. Reachy and grade or two harder if short arms.

Sit-start on the undercut to reach a poor hold on the face. From here, a lunge up and leftwards gains the top. Feet stay on the block for the lunge.

Sit-start on crimps and then reach rightwards to the arête which is climbed to finish. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade.

Stand on the large boulder to the right of Lama's V3, pull on to the wall and grab the large ledge below the top. Top out. Height dependent. A bit weird really.

Located in the cluster of boulders near the top of the quarry wall. Sit start with LH on face, R on arete. Move up through exciting traverse to blobby topout.

Opposite Maverick. Stand start and climb the nice wall in the gulley on chicken heads. Good moves. Be careful not to fall into the opposite wall of the gulley.

Climb the wall. Sit start.

Stand start on the left end of the ledge go straight up on good crimps to a desperate mantle.

Up the hill and to the left of Once Upon a Climb. Start with left hand side pull in the crack and right hand on the arete. Kick foot onto bulge and move up the arete. Bulge is out after the first move. Can maybe be done without the bulge.

One for the shorties. Bunched sit start with low left hand crimp and right hand on low side-pull. Pull off the ground and bump for first descent hold, then up and right to mantle avoiding crack and hollow flake.

The original line up the thin crack from a stand start.

Starting on the right face of "Saturday to Sunday" Sit Start, Left hand Sloped under cling / Right hand on opposing corner. Compress (fridge hug) your way up using slopers and heels until you can throw to the horn followed by an easy top out.

Sit start with good Left incut and Right hand sidepull in crack. Slap up through powerful moves and committing moves for top-out.

Sit start with Right hand on the good incut on the obvious feature. Up through reachy moves before tenuous top out

Might be a grade harder if you don't have ape-like proportions

Start on Yes and No Jug dyno up left to top of boulder

Stand start off large sidepull and swing left

Stand start and climb the ramp.

Stand start on the edge of the slab and make a big rockover. Finish up Slurpee Chucker.

sitstart and make the low traverse leftwards on the overhanging arête on coarse holds until the end of the arete and then make a big move up and right to jugs. Finish there.

Stand-start about half way up with a good crimp for the right hand on the face and left hand on/near the arete. Climb the arete. Don't step on the adjacent boulder at the top.

Stand start and move around arete to a precarious finish.

Stand-start and climb the nose feature. You might find yourself a cheval at one point.

Good and quite tenuous. Stand start at obvious crimps just left of Bulb Arete. Pull on and traverse diagonally left (without using bulb arete at any time) to gain lip and an easier mantle.

Good and quite tenuous. Stand start at obvious crimps just left of Bulb Arete. Pull on and traverse diagonally left (without using bulb arete at any time) to gain lip and an easier mantle.

Ian and James couldn't pick a name between them. Luckily Charlie saved the day! Nice west facing diamond shaped face with a big slope jug rail to start below the monster. Sit start left end of rail and straight up.

Steep Lowball directly opposite James and Ians problems. Undercling and RH side pull (big flake and detached chock near flake are out for feet). Up to slopey lip and awkward mantle.

Has a touch of the Lisa Machete. Start laying away with both hands at base of the crack left of red rocket. One hard pull to get established then up crack and groove.

Great punchy couple of moves. Located 40 metres downhill from The Monster in the Forest. Sit start matched on the undercling/sidepull. Big move up to good incut crimp in the face before moving up to the lip. The detached block or ledge to the left are out.

Fantastic high knife blade arete around right from Tantalus. It is climbed from a sit-start on its left side all the way. Committing.

Start as for the sit start of Sound and Colour. Punch up to good holds and then move higher to sharp edges. Fun climbing. Exit via the chimney formed by the two boulders touching. Excellent chicken wings and chimney grovelling are possible but more graceful options exist as everything you can reach is in.

The arete right of Hollow Arete. Stand start on the lowest side pulls and make some tricky moves.

Climb the face 3m left of Quite Company.

Stand-start and climb direct without topping out using the knob.

On the wall opposite the previous routes. Sit start and up to slopey top. Crack and flake to left are out. V4? V5? Tips were too sore to really know.

Immediately left of Alex Highrise. Balance up to rail, mantle and top out.

Mega burly finger crack.

Directly below the Inquisition block. Stand start using the boulder below and make a tough move to reach the top of the short wall/arete. Pretty mossy now and needs a good clean.

Sit-start without the ledge to the left. Climb the arete and wall to a mantle finish.

Stand start and climb the arete (top of the ramp). Don't use the large jug on Pharaoh.

Start as for Birth Rite but move right after the first move to climb via the layaway feature to finish direct.

Start as for Birth Rite but move right after the first move to the layaway feature. Move right from here and then finish direct (crux at top). Amended grade.

Stand start using lovely undercuts. High stepping allows crimpy features on the upper face to be attained. From here stretch left to the left arete. Finish direct using both aretes. Highball with a mossy and scrittle finish - classic Mt Alex topout. Don't use the big ledge out left. Perhaps an extra V grade for the experience.

On downhill side of boulder around left of the Quiff. Sit start on gritty jugs.

Sit start

The face left of They are all V2 on nice thin edges. V3/4. Or something. But probably not V2.

Cool, high slab. Start on underclings directly under the obvious sloper in the middle of the wall. Hard moves to start and then move slightly right for a committing finish.

Funk sit start on opposing side pulls near arete right of Netherfeld. Up via ripples to gain arete with right hand but remaining on left face throughout.

The shallow pocket and arete, right of What has it got in its pocketses. Relatively smooth rock. A punchy throw off tricky feet.

North face of the Dreamer Deceiver block. Sit start at crazy undercling and climb the twin cracks using a wide array of techniques. May seem a bit mean for those not trained in the way of the crack.

Tucked away out of sight on the wall down below the lookout. Access by walking off down the left side when facing out. Technical arete and face climbing on a really cool feature with 4 camo'd bolts to DBB. Comes into shade from late arvo.

Climb up the centre of the featured face. Original finish goes to the right at the top, but the high sloppy mantle is doable. Six metres right of Flat Crack.

Sit start on low rail and good foot, traverse diagonally up and left along the obvious line of holds to finish on the jug at the top left of the wall. Top out via Alley Bummer. Long!

Downhill and right from 'Love and Theft' on the big boulders near the track. Stand-start and climb the hanging arete.

Climb from inside the cave to the L of Teach your friends how to mantle. Start on the jug at the end of the dirty rail. Pull around the edge and follow the mantle. Hardest part is keeping your ass off the ground

Sit start on the undercling/crack and make a tough move up to the good hold. From here move up onto the slab using a foothold out left. Top out without using the obvious good holds out left.

Climb The Sunset Stretch to the end of the ramp, then move left via tricky moves to join the crack of Technique of a Yeti. Finish up the crack.

Sit start with the LH jugs and RH crimp. A big start move leads to the good rail, from which another big move gains the slopy top out.

On downhill/western side of the technique boulder. Sit start hugging the arete. Gets an upgrade to V4... especially compared to the routes on uphill side of technique boulder.

Stand start with feet on the large ledge across the gap and climb the overhanging crack.

Sitstart on the sloping hold and then move to the large rail. Do a big slap over the bulge and then finish up the groove.

As for Four Tet but use the good sidepull in the middle for the left hand and then finish direct up the wall and mantle. Don't use the arete.

Very sustained crimping on edges and small pockets. 3FHs

A sharp little testpiece that required a lot of effort before the FA fell. 3FHs (the 1st requires a small 'biner). The 3rd clip is desperate and a long pre-placed draw is recommended.

Sit start and traverse leftwards to a tricky finish.

Sit start to right of It Ain't Over climbing the face to its right. Arete is out for hands/feet. Probably done previously.

Climb the left side of the arete.

Start matched on the big arete left of Shots. Span out right to a break on the face, match with difficulty then move up and right to a better break. Finish up and easily via the arete.

Stand-start about 5m left of The Garden and climb the "shot-marks" to the right-trending flake line. Eases at the top.

Stand-start with right hand on the obvious sidepull - stack pads if you need to. Climb up direct. EDIT - Pete Reynolds: this would require many pads stacked!

Wall that weaves between The Garden and The Groove. Stand-start.

Stand-start and climb the overhanging prow just up the hill from The Garden. Mantle finish. Revision: sit-start at this grade - easier from the stand.

Climb the arete to an easing finish.

Thin climb

Up thin crack and wall

On the Rhomboid boulder, 30m in from The Diamond Roof. Stand start on the north-west nose of the boulder with RH crimp and LH sloper. Big throw around left to jug and head up.

Can be started from bit lower on undercuts - a bit harder.

Small face holds and obvious high right foot rail. Arete out. If this is where C went then it's pretty soft. I started that with high right nubbin foot a metre further left.

wall without crack

Climb to hole in the slab and then continue direct to the top.

Start near the end of the line of reasonable undercuts. Traverse right to left and finish up Charlie's Arete BUT no undercutting at any time.

At the far left of the top tier is a an overhanging traverse. Start from sitting and follow the line.

Sit start matched on triangular hold on the right arete.long move to side pull then left to good rail. Straight up from here to slopey finish. Big chuck and crack are out. Holds are great. Big moves and fun sequences.

A worthy addition. Sit start easily below little foot and move directly left to gain big foots RH starting hold (don’t climb up little foot and traverse left... that’s just a better way to do little foot) Up and left via thin moves to gain Big Foots flake and finish. Felt harder than V4 to start but will be much easier for the tall and went ok eventually, so we can start with this.

Sit start as for Sandblast but traverse right to gain the Back Arete. Some cool moves.

Sit-start on Back Arete. At the breadloaf move right and use the two dishes in the face to finish direct (no arete to finish). I didn't use the underclings in the overlap as they looked a bit loose. Nice, funky climbing.

Start on the left of the pyramid face. Traverse rightward following two thin seams and top out as for Apple Crumble

Up the face on the right side of the triangular face.

Edited name to reflect FA details from 2003. The open book corner which is quite hard to read. Involves some delicate moves to gain the top. FA thought V2/3 and repeats now suggest V5, so grade set at V4.

Stand-start and climb the wall right of the arete (don't use arete!). A nice climb. 50 years ago today humans first landed on the moon.

Climb the wall on knobs and edges from a stand-start.

Up between the rounded arete and clean white streak right of Mother and Child.

Directly climb the wall right of Arlo's Arete. Do not use the right arete either. Crux at the top. Solo after top rope.

Now has two fixed hangers and a lower off. Retro’d With permission of first ascentionist.