Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Roadside boulders | |||||
V4 | ★★ Spot or Die
AKA I touched the holds and hope they stayed on the face. It’s actually really cool and the holds held 4 ascents up front so that’s a start! Stand start via the pedestal then up via edges and the worrying looking layaway to finish direct or slightly right from the epic jug up high. Get a spot to keep you from breaking your back and or head on the lurking boulder of justice. | 5m | |||
V4 | Deja Vu
Sit start and climb the wall directly to top out via Sidney Crosby. Big foothold at start of SC is out. FA: Peter Reynolds, 11 Apr 2022 | ||||
V4 | ★ Death to Tyrants
From undercling rock up and left to high diagonal incut in crack. Then straight up to top out. Reachy and grade or two harder if short arms. FA: Zach Azeez, 29 Nov 2021 | ||||
V4 | ★ National Park
Sit-start on the undercut to reach a poor hold on the face. From here, a lunge up and leftwards gains the top. Feet stay on the block for the lunge. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V4 | ★ My Idea
Sit-start on crimps and then reach rightwards to the arête which is climbed to finish. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
Artful Dodger | |||||
V4 | ★ Pink Wafer
Stand on the large boulder to the right of Lama's V3, pull on to the wall and grab the large ledge below the top. Top out. Height dependent. A bit weird really. FA: Peter Reynolds | ||||
Hidden Hideaway | |||||
V4 | ★ Lil Ditto
Located in the cluster of boulders near the top of the quarry wall. Sit start with LH on face, R on arete. Move up through exciting traverse to blobby topout. FA: T-Bone & Luke Batchelor, 1 Aug 2021 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Dot to Dot
Opposite Maverick. Stand start and climb the nice wall in the gulley on chicken heads. Good moves. Be careful not to fall into the opposite wall of the gulley. FA: Peter Reynolds, 21 Jul 2022 | ||||
V4 | Surreal
Climb the wall. Sit start. FA: Peter Reynolds, 16 May 2022 | ||||
V4 | ★ Sunday's Slab
Stand start on the left end of the ledge go straight up on good crimps to a desperate mantle. | 4m | |||
Eastern Slope | |||||
V4 | ★★ Bloodsport
Up the hill and to the left of Once Upon a Climb. Start with left hand side pull in the crack and right hand on the arete. Kick foot onto bulge and move up the arete. Bulge is out after the first move. Can maybe be done without the bulge. FA: Nick Moore, 10 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
Crystal Creek Hell West Wall | |||||
V4 | ★ Pocket Pistol
One for the shorties. Bunched sit start with low left hand crimp and right hand on low side-pull. Pull off the ground and bump for first descent hold, then up and right to mantle avoiding crack and hollow flake. FA: Matthieu Burgess, 16 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
Crystal Creek Last Stand | |||||
V4 | ★★ Last Stand
The original line up the thin crack from a stand start. FA: Mark Rewi | 2m | |||
Kingdom Boulders Upper Kingdom | |||||
V4 | ★ Overmorrow
Starting on the right face of "Saturday to Sunday" Sit Start, Left hand Sloped under cling / Right hand on opposing corner. Compress (fridge hug) your way up using slopers and heels until you can throw to the horn followed by an easy top out. Set: James Roberson & Brynn Clayton, 3 Jun 2020 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Slap my fridge up
Sit start with good Left incut and Right hand sidepull in crack. Slap up through powerful moves and committing moves for top-out. FA: Cameron MacLeman, 24 Sep 2023 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Spring sun
Sit start with Right hand on the good incut on the obvious feature. Up through reachy moves before tenuous top out Might be a grade harder if you don't have ape-like proportions FA: Cameron MacLeman, 8 Oct 2023 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Yes and Dyno
Start on Yes and No Jug dyno up left to top of boulder FA: Zachary Mason, 21 Jul 2023 | ||||
V4 | Sway
Stand start off large sidepull and swing left FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2012 | ||||
Kingdom Boulders | |||||
V4 | The Ramp
Stand start and climb the ramp. FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Feb 2015 | ||||
V4 | ★ Her Majesty
Stand start on the edge of the slab and make a big rockover. Finish up Slurpee Chucker. FA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Feb 2015 | ||||
V4 | ★ Make Me Live Forever
sitstart and make the low traverse leftwards on the overhanging arête on coarse holds until the end of the arete and then make a big move up and right to jugs. Finish there. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2012 | ||||
V4 | ★ Helter Skelter
Stand-start about half way up with a good crimp for the right hand on the face and left hand on/near the arete. Climb the arete. Don't step on the adjacent boulder at the top. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2013 | ||||
V4 | The Bulb
Stand start and move around arete to a precarious finish. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2009 | 4m | |||
Outer Kingdom Ride a Rock Horse | |||||
V4 | ★ Ride a Rock Horse
Stand-start and climb the nose feature. You might find yourself a cheval at one point. FA: Peter Reynolds, 3 Oct 2021 | ||||
Outer Kingdom Little Monster Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Painful Vices
Good and quite tenuous. Stand start at obvious crimps just left of Bulb Arete. Pull on and traverse diagonally left (without using bulb arete at any time) to gain lip and an easier mantle. Good and quite tenuous. Stand start at obvious crimps just left of Bulb Arete. Pull on and traverse diagonally left (without using bulb arete at any time) to gain lip and an easier mantle. | 3m | |||
Outer Kingdom The Monster in the Forest | |||||
V4 | ★★ Gretel
Ian and James couldn't pick a name between them. Luckily Charlie saved the day! Nice west facing diamond shaped face with a big slope jug rail to start below the monster. Sit start left end of rail and straight up. FA: James Lannan | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Butch Cassidy
Steep Lowball directly opposite James and Ians problems. Undercling and RH side pull (big flake and detached chock near flake are out for feet). Up to slopey lip and awkward mantle. | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Boxing Day
Has a touch of the Lisa Machete. Start laying away with both hands at base of the crack left of red rocket. One hard pull to get established then up crack and groove. | 3m | |||
Outer Kingdom Touch of Grey Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Touch of Grey
Great punchy couple of moves. Located 40 metres downhill from The Monster in the Forest. Sit start matched on the undercling/sidepull. Big move up to good incut crimp in the face before moving up to the lip. The detached block or ledge to the left are out. FA: Matthieu Burgess, 20 Oct 2023 | 3m | |||
Outer Kingdom Tantalus Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Outer Edge
Fantastic high knife blade arete around right from Tantalus. It is climbed from a sit-start on its left side all the way. Committing. | ||||
V4 | ★ Between Worlds
Start as for the sit start of Sound and Colour. Punch up to good holds and then move higher to sharp edges. Fun climbing. Exit via the chimney formed by the two boulders touching. Excellent chicken wings and chimney grovelling are possible but more graceful options exist as everything you can reach is in. FA: Zach Azeez, 20 Mar | ||||
Outer Kingdom | |||||
V4 | The Un-tappable Well
The arete right of Hollow Arete. Stand start on the lowest side pulls and make some tricky moves. | 3m | |||
Spirit Boulders Den of Spirits | |||||
V4 | ★ Nargun
Climb the face 3m left of Quite Company. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015 | 6m | |||
Spirit Boulders Near the Quarry | |||||
V4 | ★★ Shelter
Stand-start and climb direct without topping out using the knob. FA: Peter Reynolds, 31 Aug 2019 | ||||
V4 | The One That Boz Let Slip
On the wall opposite the previous routes. Sit start and up to slopey top. Crack and flake to left are out. V4? V5? Tips were too sore to really know. | 3m | |||
The Goldfield | |||||
V4 | ★ The Ecstasy of Gold
Immediately left of Alex Highrise. Balance up to rail, mantle and top out. FA: Nick Moore, 30 Aug 2019 | 5m | |||
Wabbit Wocks Inquistion Boulders | |||||
24 | ★ Wealy
Mega burly finger crack. | 8m | |||
V4 | The Moment
Directly below the Inquisition block. Stand start using the boulder below and make a tough move to reach the top of the short wall/arete. Pretty mossy now and needs a good clean. FA: Peter Reynolds, 2013 | ||||
Wabbit Wocks The Main Slab | |||||
23 | ★ The Wabbit Kicked The Bucket Direct Start
| 10m, 2 | |||
23 | Carpal Tunnel
FA: Michael Totterdell, 2010 | 14m, 2 | |||
V4 | Tsunami
Sit-start without the ledge to the left. Climb the arete and wall to a mantle finish. FA: Peter Reynolds, 2 May 2022 | ||||
Western Front | |||||
V4 | Bastet
Stand start and climb the arete (top of the ramp). Don't use the large jug on Pharaoh. FA: Peter Reynolds, 10 Apr 2019 | ||||
V4 | Regal Status
Start as for Birth Rite but move right after the first move to climb via the layaway feature to finish direct. FA: Peter Reynolds, 10 Apr 2019 | ||||
V4 | 40.6
Start as for Birth Rite but move right after the first move to the layaway feature. Move right from here and then finish direct (crux at top). Amended grade. FA: Peter Reynolds, 10 Apr 2019 | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Hands of Odysseus
Stand start using lovely undercuts. High stepping allows crimpy features on the upper face to be attained. From here stretch left to the left arete. Finish direct using both aretes. Highball with a mossy and scrittle finish - classic Mt Alex topout. Don't use the big ledge out left. Perhaps an extra V grade for the experience. FA: Peter Reynolds, 10 Apr 2019 | ||||
High Fells | |||||
V4 | ★★ Don's Portrait
On downhill side of boulder around left of the Quiff. Sit start on gritty jugs. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 21 Jan 2015 | ||||
V4 | Joe's Hard Years
Sit start FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 21 Jan 2015 | ||||
V4 | I'm not
The face left of They are all V2 on nice thin edges. V3/4. Or something. But probably not V2. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Chicken Run
Cool, high slab. Start on underclings directly under the obvious sloper in the middle of the wall. Hard moves to start and then move slightly right for a committing finish. FA: Anthony Williams, 19 Jun 2022 | 5m | |||
V4 | Ripples in the Fabric
Funk sit start on opposing side pulls near arete right of Netherfeld. Up via ripples to gain arete with right hand but remaining on left face throughout. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Sneaky little hobbitses
The shallow pocket and arete, right of What has it got in its pocketses. Relatively smooth rock. A punchy throw off tricky feet. FA: Garry A Williams, 19 Nov | ||||
V4 | ★★ All Guns Blazing
North face of the Dreamer Deceiver block. Sit start at crazy undercling and climb the twin cracks using a wide array of techniques. May seem a bit mean for those not trained in the way of the crack. | 5m | |||
The Summit Langs Lookout | |||||
24 | ★★ Myth of Tomorrow
Tucked away out of sight on the wall down below the lookout. Access by walking off down the left side when facing out. Technical arete and face climbing on a really cool feature with 4 camo'd bolts to DBB. Comes into shade from late arvo. FA: T-Bone, 17 Nov | 10m, 4 | |||
Land of the Overhangs Flat Crack Area | |||||
V4 | ★★ The Kite Runner
Climb up the centre of the featured face. Original finish goes to the right at the top, but the high sloppy mantle is doable. Six metres right of Flat Crack. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Bean face
Sit start on low rail and good foot, traverse diagonally up and left along the obvious line of holds to finish on the jug at the top left of the wall. Top out via Alley Bummer. Long! FA: Chris Clements, 3 Mar 2018 | 4m | |||
Land of the Overhangs Coffee Bean Area | |||||
V4 | Bombe Alaska
Downhill and right from 'Love and Theft' on the big boulders near the track. Stand-start and climb the hanging arete. FA: Peter Reynolds, 24 May 2015 | ||||
V4 | ★ Teach your friends how to cave climb
Climb from inside the cave to the L of Teach your friends how to mantle. Start on the jug at the end of the dirty rail. Pull around the edge and follow the mantle. Hardest part is keeping your ass off the ground FA: Aiden Ellens, 20 Jun 2020 | 4m | |||
Land of the Overhangs Love and Theft Area | |||||
V4 | Hawks in Flight
Sit start on the undercling/crack and make a tough move up to the good hold. From here move up onto the slab using a foothold out left. Top out without using the obvious good holds out left. FA: Peter Reynolds, 19 May 2019 | ||||
Land of the Overhangs Technique Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Technique
FA: Peter Reynolds | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Legend of the Yeti
Climb The Sunset Stretch to the end of the ramp, then move left via tricky moves to join the crack of Technique of a Yeti. Finish up the crack. FA: Peter Reynolds, 19 May 2019 | ||||
V4 | ★★ The Sunset Stretch
Sit start with the LH jugs and RH crimp. A big start move leads to the good rail, from which another big move gains the slopy top out. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Uncertain Lifestyles
On downhill/western side of the technique boulder. Sit start hugging the arete. Gets an upgrade to V4... especially compared to the routes on uphill side of technique boulder. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015 | 3m | |||
Land of the Overhangs Land of the Overhangs Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Land of Plenty
FA: Peter Reynolds | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ A Wonderful Life in the Country
FA: Peter Reynolds | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Housebreaker
Stand start with feet on the large ledge across the gap and climb the overhanging crack. FA: Peter Reynolds, 21 Oct 2019 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Arlo and Jez Build a House
Sitstart on the sloping hold and then move to the large rail. Do a big slap over the bulge and then finish up the groove. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 13 Jun 2015 | ||||
Land of the Overhangs Ash's to Ashes Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Exit moves (for a climb)
As for Four Tet but use the good sidepull in the middle for the left hand and then finish direct up the wall and mantle. Don't use the arete. FA: Peter Reynolds, 16 Apr 2019 | ||||
Scorpion Rocks | |||||
23 | B1 (toprope slab L of Undercling Flake)
| 10m | |||
23 | ★★ Sustain the Pain
Very sustained crimping on edges and small pockets. 3FHs FA: Kent Paterson, 2003 | 12m, 3 | |||
24 | Territorial Pissings
A sharp little testpiece that required a lot of effort before the FA fell. 3FHs (the 1st requires a small 'biner). The 3rd clip is desperate and a long pre-placed draw is recommended. FA: Kent Paterson | 10m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★★ Gravity Grave
FA: kp & douglas hockly | 15m | |||
V4 | ★★ Live Forever
Sit start and traverse leftwards to a tricky finish. FA: Heath Black | 6m | |||
The Lord Area | |||||
V4 | Red Right Hand
Sit start to right of It Ain't Over climbing the face to its right. Arete is out for hands/feet. Probably done previously. | 4m | |||
V4 | Glass in Slow Motion
Climb the left side of the arete. FA: Peter Reynolds | ||||
Garden Boulders | |||||
V4 | Ripcord
Start matched on the big arete left of Shots. Span out right to a break on the face, match with difficulty then move up and right to a better break. Finish up and easily via the arete. FFA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Mar 2018 | ||||
V4 | ★ Shots
Stand-start about 5m left of The Garden and climb the "shot-marks" to the right-trending flake line. Eases at the top. FA: Charlie Creese, 2002 | ||||
V4 | Purple Reign
Stand-start with right hand on the obvious sidepull - stack pads if you need to. Climb up direct. EDIT - Pete Reynolds: this would require many pads stacked! FA: FA: Charlie Creese & Martin Lama | ||||
V4 | Threading the needle
Wall that weaves between The Garden and The Groove. Stand-start. FA: Peter Reynolds | ||||
V4 | ★ Blue Blood Moon
Stand-start and climb the overhanging prow just up the hill from The Garden. Mantle finish. Revision: sit-start at this grade - easier from the stand. FFA: Peter Reynolds, 4 Feb 2018 | ||||
V4 | First Visit
Climb the arete to an easing finish. FA: Martin Lama | ||||
V4 | ★ Beetle
Thin climb FA: Charlie Creese, 2002 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Beetle Crack
Up thin crack and wall FA: Peter Reynolds | ||||
The Diamond | |||||
V4 | ★★ Conflict Diamond
On the Rhomboid boulder, 30m in from The Diamond Roof. Stand start on the north-west nose of the boulder with RH crimp and LH sloper. Big throw around left to jug and head up. Can be started from bit lower on undercuts - a bit harder. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015 | 5m | |||
V4 | Carbanado right
Small face holds and obvious high right foot rail. Arete out. If this is where C went then it's pretty soft. I started that with high right nubbin foot a metre further left. | 4m | |||
Pullout bouldering | |||||
V4 | ★ Number 2b
wall without crack | ||||
V4 | ★ Number 5
Climb to hole in the slab and then continue direct to the top. | 4m | |||
V4 | The Prelude
Start near the end of the line of reasonable undercuts. Traverse right to left and finish up Charlie's Arete BUT no undercutting at any time. FA: Peter Reynolds, 21 Mar 2015 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Attack
At the far left of the top tier is a an overhanging traverse. Start from sitting and follow the line. FA: Peter Reynolds | ||||
V4 | ★★ Lichenostomus
Sit start matched on triangular hold on the right arete.long move to side pull then left to good rail. Straight up from here to slopey finish. Big chuck and crack are out. Holds are great. Big moves and fun sequences. FA: Dave C | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Resurrection
A worthy addition. Sit start easily below little foot and move directly left to gain big foots RH starting hold (don’t climb up little foot and traverse left... that’s just a better way to do little foot) Up and left via thin moves to gain Big Foots flake and finish. Felt harder than V4 to start but will be much easier for the tall and went ok eventually, so we can start with this. | ||||
The Pullout First Tier Main Slab | |||||
V4 | V4
| 4m | |||
Dog Rocks Deep South | |||||
V4 | Erosion
Sit start as for Sandblast but traverse right to gain the Back Arete. Some cool moves. | 4m | |||
V4 | Pandemic
Sit-start on Back Arete. At the breadloaf move right and use the two dishes in the face to finish direct (no arete to finish). I didn't use the underclings in the overlap as they looked a bit loose. Nice, funky climbing. FA: Peter Reynolds, 27 Mar 2020 | ||||
Dog Rocks Tucked Tail Boulders | |||||
V4 | ★★ Pie crust
Start on the left of the pyramid face. Traverse rightward following two thin seams and top out as for Apple Crumble FA: Cameron MacLeman, 15 May 2023 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Apple crumble
Up the face on the right side of the triangular face. FA: Bron Holdgate | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Concrete Boots
Edited name to reflect FA details from 2003. The open book corner which is quite hard to read. Involves some delicate moves to gain the top. FA thought V2/3 and repeats now suggest V5, so grade set at V4. FA: Charlie Creese, 2003 | 5m | |||
Dog Rocks | |||||
V4 | ★★ Man on the Moon
Stand-start and climb the wall right of the arete (don't use arete!). A nice climb. 50 years ago today humans first landed on the moon. FA: Peter Reynolds, 20 Jul 2019 | ||||
V4 | ★ Dark Side
Climb the wall on knobs and edges from a stand-start. FA: Peter Reynolds, 20 Jul 2019 | ||||
V4 | ★★ McIntyre's delight
Up between the rounded arete and clean white streak right of Mother and Child. FA: Cameron MacLeman, 30 Mar 2018 | 4m | |||
24 | ★ Sadie's Saunter
Directly climb the wall right of Arlo's Arete. Do not use the right arete either. Crux at the top. Solo after top rope. Now has two fixed hangers and a lower off. Retro’d With permission of first ascentionist. FFA: Peter Reynolds, 19 Jan 2015 FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 19 Jan 2015 Set: Ben, 15 Jul 2018 | 6m, 2 |