Central Area





This is the area centered around the obvious high, orange corner crack around the corner from Vox Populi Wall. There are a number of routes in the upper tier (see 'Sundeck') above this area that can be accessed by climbing the rebolted Garth Miller 14, "Open to Public Srutiny"

This guide has been updated 21/04/2017 by JSD. Over the years routes have shifted slightly (due to rebolting) and changed names (due to them not being named). This is the most up to date resource for this area. Please consult before making changes

Access issues inherited from Mount Alexandra

Located in the Mount Alexandra Reserve, under stewardship of the Wingecarribee Shire Council.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Several rings to lower off. If you want to access 'Sundeck' clip the lower offs and move past them to double U bolts at the base of 'Piccolo Luna'

Start: Start at inviting looking section of slabbiness.

FA: Garth Miller & Jay Williams, 1992

Start at vegetated corner 2m L of OPS. A fine climb once the botany is avoided, delete the star if you avoid the second pitch.

  1. 12m (14) Avoid vegetation in initial corner, then head up the lovely corner above to belay on carrots on Piccolo Luna sundeck.

  2. 6m (15) The deceptively tricky thin yellow corner crack / flake. Natural belay at top or lower off Piccolo Luna rings.

FA: P1. Craig Sloss P2. David Duke, 1990

Start: Up the B gully to the platform to clip the first ringbolt. Pull through overhang then move right (crux). Up past RB's and FH's to lower offs.

This is the furthest right route on the head wall.

Start: Below vege gully and obvious hanging headwall

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

A nice fingery wall. Up QDS however trend left at overhang to RB on headwall, then up past FH and another RB to same lower off as QDS.

This is the middle line of bolts on the head wall.

Start: Up vege gully as for QDS

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

Make a move left from the fixed hanger of 'Deception'

The left of the 3 routes on the amazing high headwall Up vege gully as for Deception and QDS Up the leaning yellow corner and step right onto the mini arete and then onto the headwall

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

Up the short corner. The unnamed Tim Cartwright route 1991.

Start as for 'Quart De Seicle'. Up past vege and then into the steepish short corner. Use the bolts on the left side then finish at the anchors of Alpine ie. trend left at the top after you come out of the corner.

Between Reborn and D. Starts easily up to bulge, hard move on high crimps through bulge and then up the short orange headwall to anchors of D

FA: Tim M-S, Sep 2017

Start on the RB of "Crimp da buttock"

This is a mixed route, originally on 2 carrots low down. Other routes have been bolted across it. If you use these bolts you are not doing the original route!

Easily up the slab. BR on left (or small wires in the crack for the ethically minded!), then up to small foot ledge (BR on right). Up bulgy corner to the top (crux).

Start on the RB of "Crimp da buttock"

Using any of the bolts that now cross this route.

Easily up the slab. BR on left (or small wires in the crack for the ethically minded!), then up to small foot ledge (BR on right). Up bulgy corner to the top (crux).

As for 'D' to the footledge, then step left and head up the arete on what is now 'Alpine'.

FA: Peter Monks, 1997

Follow the ring bolts up to the prow up high. Up through the overlaps with a bit of high stepping action, to an almost vertical finish.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

A rather rambling, but longer journey up and across the slabs left of 'Alpine'.

Start up 'Alpine' until you see the bolts to the left. Follow to double RB lower off.

Right of Snooze. Pull over two bulges and onto the crack and slab. Romp up the nice looking orange rock to the anchors shared with Snooze. The route starts just left of the bush 2m up, watch the tree when lowering!!

FA: Matt Tranter, 13 Aug 2017

2m right of 'Parents in Pain'. Look for faint blue rectangle painted at head height.

Up to the closed little corner/seam on surprising holds.

This route shares an anchor with "The Gruffalo".

FA: Garth Miller - Solo, 1991

Up the stepped looking arete passing 6RB's to lower offs a little back from the top.

Start: At blunt arete 15 metres left of 'Alpine'

FA: Garth Miller & Jay Williams, 1991

Skip the bulge by heading right, then up to get back on PiP

Start 2 metres left of Parents. Pull through the slot and ramble to the steep all. Keep right on the jugs for a fair grade. Finish at Parents lower offs.

FA: matttranter, 2011

Enter the crumbling ruins that guard the first high bolt. Crux move to second bolt. (Can be avoided by stepping far right.) Ramble through the ledges and moss filled cracks to the fabled city of gold. Fun. Long. Exit from chains on the final ledge. 60m is perfectly fine.

Set: Matt Tranter, 2019

FA: Matt Tranter, 8 Oct 2019

Start under the over hung crack. Lock off in the crack and go for the thank god hold on the lip.

Set: Matt Tranter

FA: matttranter, 2011

Same start as Pre Pimple Pop but stay right through two caves finishing on technical vertical wall.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

A fantastic overhang, one of the most popular routes in the Southern Highlands. Start 7m L of PIP under obvious imposing overhang. Up onto slab via L or R (BR) then through overhang to pull lip (crux) lower off U anchor or continue powering through juggy choss! 5 BR's including U Anchor.

Start 7m L of PIP under the obvious imposing overhang.

FA: Garth Miller, Tim Cartwright & Craig Sloss, 1991

Start 2m L of PPP. Named after Tim Cartwright went under Craig Slosses nose and stole his project! Rebolted with 8 rings to lower offs.

Start: Left of Pre 'Pimple' Pop at jugs at track level

FA: Tim Cartwright, 1991

Start in small corner L of JE. Absolutely brilliant top moves once you've bumbled over the bulge. 4 new RB to Lower Offs.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

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