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1 12 30m
2 13 25m
3 13 30m
4 14 25m
5 14 25m
6 17 27m
7 14 30m
8 14 30m
9 14 30m
10 14 30m

description

Description partially taken from Rob Rankin's Secrets of the Scenic Rim, and the original guide linked below, with modern amendments. Most tree/shrub belays have disappeared from these guides. http://www.qurank.com/guides/Guide_MtBarney.pdf

This 297m route takes the obvious central chimney which splits the face, formed by two dykes.

  1. 30m (12) - Starting at a small cave right of the two main dykes, climb diagonally - L to R - across and up the buttress which lies at the base of the face below the obvious central chimney and finish at a tree. One already feels the exposure.

  2. 25m (13) - Continue up the buttress to a scrubby patch at its top, with a cave behind. Belay off bolt and gear in the cave.

  3. 30m (13) - Move right and diagonally up into a chimney, past a bolt, and continue up this, battling past prickly scrub, to where a small tree belay used to sit. It is best to link this into p4.

  4. 25m (14) - Move right onto the face and up to another small tree belay. A natural belay can be found above the tree.

  5. 25m (14) - Continue up the face and to back left towards the chimney, to a small ledge with an old double bolt belay. Belaying in the cave above may be a better alternative, but gear is scarce.

  6. 27m (17) - Chossy class! Traverse left into the chimney and climb this to the overhang. On the first ascent a tree was lassoed at this point but the tree has long since gone. Therefore, find your way up and out of the imposing roof chimney by any means, and ascend to a tree belay in the main chimney above.

7-10) 120m (14) - Follow a series of vegetated chimneys up to the exit gully.

Route history

26 May 1966First ascent: J. Tillack, D. Groom & L Wood

John Tillack described the first crux thusly- "...overhanging chimney which ended below a crumbling overhang" that had "portable hand-holds". Finding the now-smooth overhang impassable, he lassoed a small tree and a 12 foot pendulum swing brought him below the tree. He climbed up the rope, only to find the tree hollow and rotten. Les Wood barely remembered the day, as he was nursing a bad hangover.

First and only known solo ascent, 3 March 1979, by Robert Staszewski- Free-soloed the first 100m, then switched to using a back rope, anchored to a belay, that entailed climbing each pitch twice. Instead of relying on a nest of nuts/biners, he had to rely on a kink in the rope that got stuck behind the infamous rotten tree, pulling up hand-over-hand with greater fear than he had ever experienced (in his own words).

First female ascent, 1998- Wendy Steele and Jackie Kiewa. Wendy avoided the usual chimney route on the second pitch. In Jackie's words, "...she did this incredible face climb and traverse with no protection whatsoever, as she does." The climbers spent an uncomfortable night in the exit chimney, later discovering the top was only 10 minutes climbing away!

M. Meadows (2015), The Living Rock.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -28.28586, 152.70585

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

12,13,13,14,14,17,14,14,14,14 Assigned grade
15 Terry Svingen
18 private

Seasonality

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Quality

Mega Classic
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Overall quality 61 from 3 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 1
Tick 1
Target 2

Comment keywords

crux vertical easy hands short face traverse epic chossy chimney bad roof good awesome beautiful tricky scary

Activity

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