Mt Coolum




Kneebars and lots of core strength on steep territory


There's not many other crags in south east Queensland where you can climb in the shade in summer. Because of this, local climbers have been almost forced to climb here, regardless of ability. And given there's not any easy routes at the cliff, Mt Coolum is transforming the local climbing populace into steep-thugging, kneebar-wielding, sloper-crushing mutants! Projects of yesteryear are today's warm-up's and today's projects are, well, futuristic!

Unlike many other crags of this type, the local scene is friendly, welcoming and encouraging. Come and join us for a dangle!

First Nations Information

The First Nations people from this area are Gubbi Gubbi/Kabi Kabi.

Coolum, pronounced Gulum or Kulum in Kabi language has several meanings including; wanting, without, blunt and place of howling winds. It holds significant cultural meaning to First Nations people being central in local Dreamtime Legends* and the caves or hollows were used to store relics. Cultural features nearby include a bora ring site and an ochre quarry.

*The Dreaming:

All information collected has been carried out with research, respect and best interest however, we welcome feedback from the community.

Access issues

Access to Mt Coolum is under strict community guidelines. If we obey the rules, then climbing here will continue.

The rules are:

  • No new routes outside the cave (bolted or otherwise)
  • No routes up though the area where the falcons are
  • Minimize impact and presence (i.e. no loud noise!)
  • Continue to clean up our mess and the mess of others
  • Make an effort to clean chalk off holds
  • Do not leave quickdraws on routes below the height of the tallest stick-clip. Leaving no draws is encouraged.
  • The bolting is mostly on Glue in with Epoxy glue. Please consult the locals before you go trigger happy on you new link up project


One and a half hours (130 km) north of Brisbane. Up the Bruce Highway. Exit L and under after the Ettamogah Pub onto the Sunshine Coast Motorway. Nearing Mooloolaba, take the Noosa exit (not Mooloolaba), pass over the Maroochy river (first sight of the mountain on the bridge). Take the airport exit and keep going straight toward the coast. After the IGA turn L on Quarry Rd, one street before Hyatt Coolum. Follow your nose and park in the main National Park car park.

There are two track options to get to the cliff. The best (which avoids an obvious looking 'climbers trail' appearing on the general tourist track) is the separate trail from the tourists (see red line in the overview topo below). Head to the southern end of carpark and follow the fire trail South. After about 200m a narrow track breaks off R, follow this up to an old road then veer left into the quarry. Keep going uphill, the tracks lead up to the huge cave on the South East side (quite well worn, 10 minutes tops).

Where to stay

Surfair Resort offer 2 bedroom unit. You can get the view of the cave while enjoying your coffee on the balcony.


The cave has been largely developed in the last 10 years We value our relationship with the National Park and expect all users to respect this. It is essential not to disturb the wildlife and stay on the track to limit our impact.


History timeline chart

This section is to be part of the Coolum Cave book being produce by the Radest Productions crew.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

After climbing Stairway to Heaven go to the far left of the Morning Glory ledge. Straight up following the black streak. A bit steeper toward the end of the pitch. Lower off.

FA: Graham Page & antoine moussette, 7 Jan 2021

From UV belay station traverse left upward following the ramp. Once over the bulge it's easy climbing to the anchor. This large ledge give access to the Dawn Wall above.

FFA: Ethan Naylor, Jan 2020

FA: Ethan Naylor & Oliver Naylor, Jan 2020

Set: Radest, Jan 2020

Far left upper route. 7-8 FHs to DUBB. Access via Friends in High Places, then traverse L to DFHB on ledge.

FFA: jjobrien, 2008

Big holds to a rare crimp crux, then super horns into the sky. Joins BLD at its final bolt.

FFA: frey yule, 2009

3 Fhs on far left hand side of cave, lower off single RB.

FA: unknown

Tough little crux, great for improving footwork. Challenge your friction technique.

FFA: jjobrien & ambor collins, 2006

Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.

FFA: Lee Cujes & jjobrien, 2007

Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.

FFA: Lee Cujes & jjobrien, 2007

Start as for 'GR' but instead of going left at the crux head straight up. Bolting not complete. Please stay off for now.

Set: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 26 Nov 2016

A link up. Start as for Tropic Thunder clipping its last bolt then staying low traverse in and finish up Gasoline Rainbow.

FFA: Sebastian, 2012

One of the best link ups in the cave! Takes in a lot of climbing, and a lot of cruxes. Climb Tropic Thunder to above its last bolt, sticking the hard crux side pull, but instead of moving right to clip anchor, move left and finish up GR.

FFA: Sebastian, 2012

Climb FIHP to anchor, and then take a step right and climb straight up the overhung stemming groove to rooflet. Above this make a move to the right onto crimps with bouldery, spacey moves awaiting above. Anchor shared with NIHP on right over the top of bulge.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2011

The only non-steep warmup here. Stickclip. Stemming moves up past 3-4 bolts until it slabs out, then head well left to double rings.

FFA: Liam O'Dea, 1997

Climb this as one pitch from the ground. Climb FIHP, extending the last clip, and climb directly up the wall above past 5 RBs to wild conclusion which resembles mantling the end of a diving board.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2011

Cleared for Take Off into the crux of Nuts, combines best of both routes.

Start up TDLW for three UBs, then trend slightly L past FHs up the ever steepening wall past some crazy looking horns and the odd dodgy aid bolt. The top horn (the biggest at Coolum) rings when you tap it! Ride 'em cowboy!

FA: Aaron Jones, 1998

FFA: Simon Moses, 2000

Coolum's highest route. Climb CFT and top out on the ledge. You might like to pull and re-drop your rope to lessen drag. Step right, and blast through steep but juggy terrain into the stratosphere. Some longer draws at certain spots will ease your pain. The final bolt (anchor) is just below the top of the cave and currently sports a leaver biner. You can just get down on a 60m from here, but back-jump to clean. (Was closed, but has been rebolted - 2015)

FA: Lee Cujes & jjobrien, 16 Mar 2013

A new warm-up option. Up TDLW for four UBs. Instead of traversing right as for TDLW, go straight up past another three UBs into the cave. Finish atop the diving board (double U-bolts). Lower-off.

FFA: Lee Cujes & jjobrien, 2011

Climb Dave until you're at the double UBs above the diving board. Continue directly out the roof for some of the steepest climbing and THE biggest, craziest holds at Coolum. Finish at 'CFT''s anchor.

FFA: Lee Cujes & jjobrien, 2011

Like Woodridge, had a name change and a rebolt to hopefully generate more interest. Follow four U-bolts up deceiving slab before traversing/walking directly right past two FHs and mantling up into the cave. You'll need a seconder to clean this route.

Get safe at TDLW anchor and pull and re-drop your rope for a ground belay. From this point, climb up and out left on FHs and biiig holds to a confounding and onsight-ruining finale.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

Starts just to the right of LCA. Climbs the exposed arete before heading straight up into the thin corner (don't climb left onto the massive horns if you want the full tick), finishing with a wild move to breach the shelf at the top. Belay from ground as for LCA.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2010

Follow the jagged lip feature going across right. Finish as BBJ.

Set: antoine moussette, Nov 2013

In the middle of the giant scoop make your way on some funky blob aiming for a horn at the lip. Follow the feature and finish BBJ anchor.

Set: antoine moussette, Nov 2013

Start at the 'Nick' graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!

FFA: frey yule, 2007

Up into the steep little cave, then across left to a hard move to gain the protruding jugs. Motor up the very overhanging arete on killer shark-fin jugs. Now rebolted with U-bolts.

FFA: 1998

Climb Hang Like a Fruitbat to anchor, but don't clip it. Instead head sharply left until you join into Beer Boob and finish. Have fun on the crazy upside down traverse.

FFA: frey yule

Climbs the smooth wall straight above Fruit Bat. Closed, stay off.

Set: Frey Yule, 2010 & Matt Schimke, 2011

Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular. Back Jump to clean and lower from second bolt.

FFA: Simon Moses, 1998

Climb HLAFB and keep climbing out of the 120 degree roof following the natural feature. A hellish Rose move through the the roof allows you to get over the lip and clip the anchor.

Techy, pumpy, powerful, core intensive, la's got it all.

FFA: Daniel Gordon, 24 May 2015

Start as for Three Men and a Ladder, finish at the anchor of Like a Bat Out of Hell.

FFA: Matt Dunning, 4 Dec 2016

Climb Guns For Show, Knives For A Pro to anchor and then continue onto Sideways Rain for an extra 15metres of pump. *Requires 2 ropes.

FFA: 20 Oct 2019

FA: Matt Raimondo, 20 Oct 2019

Climb GFSKFAP but then continue up through SEH.

FFA: Cal, 10 Nov 2020

Climb 'Like a Bat out of Hell' then keep going up Scrambled Eggs and Honey. Probably will require two ropes to ease the drag. Epic!!!

Set: Dan Gordon & johnny schwartz, 15 Feb 2015

FA: Cal, 18 Nov 2020

Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to Fruit Bat, at a harder grade.

FA: Matt Eaton, 2007

Ringbolts starting just R of TMAAL. A weird looking line which climbs really well. Make sure you bring your kneepads for this one. Popular.

FFA: Matt Eaton, 2007

Climb AKTF then keep going for another 3 bolts.

FFA: Matt Eaton, 2009

Batman start to the anchors of Sideways Rain then head left clipping the last two bolts of Bring Back the Kneebar before continuing straight-up for another 5 bolts to the anchor.

FFA: Johnny, 7 Sep 2014

Batman start at the anchors over the lip above kneebar too far. Reach up and grab those starting slopers out left and start from there. Heads straight-up and finishes standing on huge ledge.

FA: Daniel Friedman, 2013

Even better than the original line!! The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy!

Set: Sam Bowman, Daniel Gordon & antoine moussette, 9 Dec 2013

FA: Sam Bowman, 23 Dec 2013

Go from UFO all the way through to bring back the kneebar. Insane bouldering.

Set: Dan g & Matt Eaton

FFA: Cal, 6 Aug 2021

Mat Eaton's futuristic Line. One of the king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts then climbs into the cave to the lower off anchors.

Set: Matt Eaton & Sebastian Lowenstein, 2007

FA: Dan Mackay, 16 Jul 2017

Start up Evil for 2 bolts before heading left.

Bolting not finished.

Start up 'Evel Knievel', head left at FH and across Esoteric Agenda, across Sideways Rain and finishing up at SEH anchors. Pumper.

FFA: Paul Cresswell, 3 Mar 2015

Climb Evil for three bolts before trending sharply left for a burly traverse below SO (past the weird double bolts). Joins SO for its top two bolts.

FFA: frey yule, 2011

Climb up and across Evel Knievel for about 7/8 bolts, until the obvious large break landing you at esoterics jugs. Finish up Esoteric Agenda, long slings will ease drag.

FFA: Alistair Earley, 30 Oct 2017

Start with the boulder problem of Evil. After the hard clip go left across a series of bulges. After some intricate betas and a few kneebars, you link into Esoteric Agenda under the top crux. Finish as per EA.

Epic power endurance test piece. One of the purest pieces of climbing in QLD for chur.

Set: Dan Gordon & Alexander Turnbull, 4 Jan 2020

FA: Khosro Hashemzadeh, 30 May 2020

Do esoteric panties/evil agenda to the crux of esoteric agenda and then break left for a very hard 3 extra bolts of climbing until you reach sideways rains anchor.

The future.

Start up the first 3 bolts of Evil, then veer up and left for another 3 bolts before getting a weird ledge rest. A few more moves and you're done.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2010

Defunct (was the batman start to SO).

Batman start from 3rd ring bolt of EWNP. Climb officially starts from the two closest holds to the 3rd bolt (funky jam RH, layaway LH) long steep moves up and left to Space Oddity anchors.

FA: Adam Donoghue, 2008

Climb Evil, but veer left before cave and up the face above encountering some bouldery moves.

FA: frey yule, 2012

Prime to fifth clip then across the top of evils rest cave and back into no pants. Creates a sustained link with new upper crux.

FA: Cal, 11 Jan 2022

The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia.

Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!

FA: Adam Donoghue, 2008

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2008

What a thrilling route! Start as for EWNP, traverse slightly right at the second bolt, then ascend past 3 new bolts before re-joining EWNP. This avoids the no hands rest on EWNP, resulting in a more sustained route of continuous climbing.

Set: Paul Cresswell, David Biggs & Sebastian, Mar 2013

FFA: Sebastian, 7 Apr 2013

Start up Thiller, climb across to 'Bite The Hand That Feeds' and to the chains.

FFA: Paul Cresswell, 7 Jun 2015

Up Thriller till the second last bolt and then step right into friction addictions hard ending. Super pumpy classic.

FA: Sam Bowman, Oct 2014

Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project' Start up the first two bolts of Evil before heading right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

FFA: Sam Bowman, 9 Mar 2014

Bouldery start on tiny slopers and a shallow hueco. Once over the lip do Friction Addictions

Set: Paul Creswell, 2011

FA: Sam Bowman, 12 Jul 2015

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2010

All the moves had been done but no one was able to take care of this one until a climber from Scotland, Robbie Phillips visited Queensland. He sent the route on his last day in the country thereby establishing Queensland's current hardest Sport route.

Bouldery start trending left on line of weakness, before joining into BTHTF at the bolt below the headwall (ignore bolts out right which need to be removed).

Robbie re-named "Taking Care of Business Project" to "Haggisaurus Rex" due to the Dinosaur skin-like nature of the rock and the fact that Robbie only ate Haggis the whole time he was in Australia to maintain his Scottish Highlander Powers! Rumour has it they shipped 70 whole Haggis' to Australia just for Robbie..."

Set: antoine moussette, 2010

FFA: robbiephillips, 24 May 2014

Start-up Gladiator, after the crux, climb leftwards on to Taking Care of Business variation, at last jug enjoy a hard low traverse left into the crimpy ending Friction Addiction. This route is fantastic with a great mix of climbing and is a classic link-up well worth doing.

FFA: Sebastian Loewensteijn

Set: Radest, frey yule & Sebastian

FA: Sebastian Loewensteijn, 5 Nov 2017

Fantastic climbing on solid rock with exceptional moves. Start at the same point as Taking Care of Business and head right onto a small shelf – slightly tricky. Then head directly up into the obvious feature, semi-dangerous clip (ground fall potential). This is followed by some tricky moves to a cruxy dead point and easier head wall.

There is a bolt under the lip over the right side to protect the start.

A visionary route by Frey Yule and a brilliant gift to Coolum crag – thank you Frey for all your great routes at the cave!

Set: frey yule, 2002

FFA: Sebastian Loewensteijn, 22 Apr 2017

No sure if it goes. Start The Seam and stay in the it all the way. Two more bolts allow to link directly to the upper wall of Spoonman.

FA: Radest & frey yule, 2012

Start slightly left of Knifey Spooney. The fainted crack feature on that compact wall. This line link into the crux of Spoonman. Probably the hardest climb in Queensland at the moment.

Set: Frey Yule, 2010 & Radest, 4 Jun 2013

FFA: Sam Bowman, 11 Aug 2019

To reach full mastery, keep on going past the Knifey Spooney anchor.

Set: antoine moussette

FA: antoine moussette, 8 Nov 2015

Bouldery start left of Screaming. Control the move to the knife hold and link into Spoonman.

Set: Gareth Llewellin & antoine moussette, 2012

FFA: James Campbell, 2012

Knifey start at the spoon continue up and right to join wholly calamity. Compact wall with smaller holds and no where to hide.

Set: Cal, 28 Feb 2021

FFA: Cal, 7 Mar 2021

Combines the cruxes of three routes. Start off Knifey Spooney, then into Spoonman and finally veer left into Iron Man. Lots of fun bouldering with good rests in between.

FA: Will Chan, 10 Dec 2017

Climb Spoonman and step left at the anchor. Keep going up to link with some good rock. Finish at Camp III.

Set: antoine moussette, 8 Feb 2015

Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this a popular tick at the grade.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

Climb Spoonman and after the crux, at the large jug rest, continue tending leftwards up 5 new bolts, staying off the route to the left. The route finishes on a single hanger with a ring just below joining Spoonmonster.

Note: I opted to not climb to the Spoonmonster anchor as the rock quality is poor, sharp and dusty and adds nothing to the route in terms of difficultly or quality.

FA: Sebastian, 5 Nov 2016

Starts up Spoonman. Once you hit the arete head left below Ironman to join Gladiator.

FA: Daniel Mackay, 1 May 2017

Links the start of Knifey Spooney into the finish of Screaming. Some great moves down low to an easier finish than Spoonman. Take a long draw for the bolt before Spoonman crux, and another long draw for the bolt above Screaming's horns.

FA: Will Chan, 16 Dec 2017

The must-do crag classic, featuring the biggest and most aesthetic horns and jugs on the wall. When this was first bolted, there was nobody strong enough to climb it. Oh how things change!

FA: Chris Coghill, 1997

FFA: Simon Moses, 1998

Up to anchor of SI (600mm sling), then head left on tricky slopers before joining into the last part of Spoonman.

FFA: frey yule, 2009

Traverse left across the blankness just before screamings crux. Finishes up Spoonman. Fun.

FA: Cal, 9 Mar 2021

SpoonBaby across into Iron Man, avoids the good low knee bars on Spoonman. Should prove sustained.

FFA: Anthony Lidbetter, 10 Mar 2022

This is the extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier! Three more bolts keep the lactic levels up.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

Climb Screaming Insanity, but instead of clipping anchor traverse right and join onto Crouching Tiger, Hidden Climber.

FFA: Matt Raimondo & Ella De Bono

FA: 18 Mar 2018

Starting as for SI, step R on ramp and then blast the line above. Wear a shirt. You'll see.

FFA: frey yule, 2007

Climbs Crouching Tiger until you notice a series of horns on your right. Traverse diagonally up to reach the crux of Kept Man. Up and PAST the chains of Kept Man/COD for another 3 bolts to the double rings right under the roof (Camp II/ Gothic Architect ).

FFA: antoine moussette, 2009

Antoines right hand line of bolts above gonna fly now.

Start with the boulder problem SI, and then ramble easily up R to belay on a cool ledge in a really good position.

FA: 2002

DM with a batman start to the third bolt.

FA: 2002

Climb DM to access. Belayer can either belay from there, or the ground. Climb starts steeply directly above. A few bolts trending up and left to chains.

FFA: Brendan Leader, 2008

Traverse right onto exposed arete from the anchor of DM. A couple of funky throws and you're ready to clip the chain. Best to belay from the ground.

Set: antoine moussette & Matt Schimke, 2009

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2009

From Kept Man Belay station. Keep going and traverse into the massive roof. Finish at a picnic table ledge (aka camp III) over the lip.

FA: Phil Box, 2009

Start right of Sceaming for some Mad roof climbing, join into 4 metres for the finish.

Set: frey yule, 2011

FFA: Mark Mcgivern, 18 Jul

Steepest route in Coolum. Start in back of cave R of SI. Stick clip first 2 bolts. Finish L of final bolt over the mantle.

FFA: Matt Eaton, 2008

A short bouldery route traversing the lip of the cave from right to left. This route consumed Ross' life for a time.

FFA: ross ferguson, 2008

Separation thru to demolition mans anchors. Out there.

Set: Cal, 11 Sep 2020

FFA: 3 Oct 2020

Starts up 'Eight Minute Abs' to first bolt then traverses left on flakes, finishes up 'Separation Anxiety'

Set: Adam, 7 Dec 2014

FFA: Adam, 12 Apr 2015

Eight Minute Abs from the batman start. Mostly jugs with a bit of spice at the end.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2010

The left trending line that starts left of WOC. The first half dozen moves make up the crux and are extremely bouldery requiring some strong core work to a huge bucket. From there it's a 45 degree wall with mostly big moves to big holds and a tricky finish to finish near the top of Demolition Man. Make sure you mantle the ledge at the anchor to get the tick! Anchor has been placed too low.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2011

Linkup - Climbs Eight Minute Abs past the anchor into Call of Duty, via a 60cm sling on the first COD bolt

FFA: Daniel Friedman, 2012

Start as Eight Minutes Abs. Join into Weapon of Choice and finish it.

FFA: Saša Juvan

Climb Bloody Weapon until anchor, then veer left and finish up COD.

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2010

The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Probably the most beta intensive route here. At least seven kneebars.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

Logical finish for WC. Cruxy finish on the upper arête . 14m overhung. A right variant finish is possible at the base of the arête.

Set: antoine moussette, 2009

FFA: jjobrien, 2009

Climb Weapon of Choice and make your way into Renewable energy.

Set: Graham Page & antoine moussette, 2012

FFA: jjobrien, 30 Sep 2014

Climb CWAHW but keep on moving left onto COD. Finish up this. The longest route at Coolum.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2009

Starts 3m left of CH. Small roof leads to easy top.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

Do Caught by the Fuzz and keep going over the roof above the anchor. Finish at the niche just under Kissing the Lip.

FA: antoine moussette, 2012

Start on Caught by the Fuzz, keep going through the roof and finish directly up Armed to the Teeth. Multiple cruxes

FFA: jjobrien, 22 Apr 2015

Climb Still on a buzz turn first roof and follow the right hand seam, 3 FH. Finish on the perch above the lip of the cave.

Set: Graham Page & antoine moussette, 2012

FFA: Cal, 2 Sep 2021

Climb HF but continue left into WOC and finish at anchor.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2010

Start as per Crazy Horny till fourth bolt (long sling), then move sharply left to the second bolt of CBTF, finish up this.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2009

Popular. Bouldery start then steep thuggery. The horn sadly broke changing the sequence. Many people's first 24. Back jump to clean, lower from second bolt.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2000

Climb Crazy Horny skipping the 4th bolt, to anchor on Full Metal Traverse via a two bolt link-up. A bouldery finale actually involves downclimbing. A better finish.

FFA: frey yule, 2006

Climb Crazy Horny into Frey's Link (to the anchors of FMT - 600mm sling), but keep going over the block and finish up Grazed Anatomy.

FFA: frey yule, 2008

Climb from the ground straight up and finish at Full Metal's anchor. Burly never-ending bouldering. Epitomises the style of the right side of the cave.

FA: Dan Gordon, 17 May 2015

Start on Assistance is Futile. Straight up and instead of going left to the Full Metal anchor, keep going straight all the way up to the True North anchor. A bouldery start leads you to a nice pumpy ending. Nice link up.

FA: Khosro Hashemzadeh, 22 Feb 2020

Assistance is Futile into Animal Mother then all the way to Call of Duty’s anchor. Long draw on Crazy Horny's anchor and enjoy.

FFA: Cal, 27 Oct 2020

Start at the True North boulder problem, climb this for its first bolt and then head left via some cool pinches to the 2nd bolt of Assistance. Go through some crazy techy bouldering that keeps getting harder. Eventually re-enter Full Metal's traverse at its last bolt and finish at its anchor. Also can be done direct clipping Frey’s Link last FH.

Set: frey yule & ross ferguson, 2011

FFA: Sam Bowman, 7 Mar 2014

Ultimate into grazed.

FA: Cal, 16 Aug 2020

Start 3m L of Grazed Anatomy at ringbolts. Throw, pinch and scream for three bolts. After that, finish up Grazed Anatomy.

FFA: frey yule, 2009

Climb past full metal anchor to Crazy Horny's. Adds 3 metres of exciting hard climbing to full metal. Also has been done from the true north direct start, a hard 29 by Sam B.

FA: Dan Gordon, Nov 2014

Direct start to Full Metal Traverse (start at the true north boulder problem and head left to finish at full metal's anchor. So bouldery and sustained.

Set: frey yule

FA: Oliver Miller, 2012

Start as for Chevy, but traverse the lip directly left on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip. Amazing bouldery climbing without many tricks. Great for getting you strong!

FFA: frey yule, 2007

Climb FMT past four bolts, then up past another five. At last bolt, mantle lip of cave and stand on top triumphant.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2008

Climb to Chevy's last bolt, go left and finish up GA.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2008

Stick clip FMT first bolt and blast straight up into the Pinch and Gaston, finish as for Who Grazed My Chevy or finish as for FMT at 28.

FFA: Cal, 10 Feb 2021

Start just to the left of Yoink. By far the most popular route at the crag. Now rebolted.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

On the very R end of the cave. Climb crack on UBs to wacky "rest" on arete. Continue through the steep stuff to shared anchor.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1998

FFA: Vickie Sullivan, 2000

For sake of the route name, climb Yoink and keep on going as per Who Grazed My Chevy?

A short easy trad route underneath Yoink. Start at small tree and climb through the orange rock.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2008

Spoonman across to Iron Man's anchor, continue up past 3 FH and start slinging like a cowboy to arrive at camp 3's belay. 5 slings and a small cam will suffice.

FA: Cal & Anthony Lidbetter, 13 Dec 2021

The Crazy finale to the top of the cave. Outrageous exposure and views of the full sunshine coast! Quality rock Pitch 3 high above "Call of Duty". (Pitch 2 is still a project).To send this line you would need to aid the second pitch. One day it will all be done clean. ground up. Belayer must be at 3rd pitch anchor for sufficient rope to get to the ground!

Set: Phil Box, 2011

FFA: Rob Saunders, 15 Mar 2015

Start under the overhanging arete left of Friends in high places. The obvious series of slopers lead to a tricky exit. Best to top rope from 'Friends in High Places' anchor, but beware rope cutting edges.

FA: Etienne Laliberte, 2009

Start matched on the red heart hold on the left of the small cave, traverse left around the bend then finish by matching on the jug that Kapow starts on.

FFA: Clint Westbrook, 2008

Start at the right of small cave, On big jug. Work your way left until it is obvious to move into the cave. Finish on the red paint hold (match for 2 seconds).

FA: 2008

Start in the roof under 'Kapow'. Grab the lip and squat over to finish at hueco.

A 5m traverse.

FFA: Matt Schimke, 2008


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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

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