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North Walls

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Description

The North Walls are a group of smaller walls located on the northern descent track. These walls include The Bat Cave, 14 Wall & Flake Wall.

Access issues inherited from Mt Gibraltar

Located in the Mount Gibraltar Reserve.

Approach

Park at the top of Jellore Lookout. Walk to the northern end of the paking area then turn left down through small boulders (30m). You will arrive at a large rock platform, from here turn right and join the northern descent track. Follow the descent track to Northern Walls (more info in descent notes below).

Alternatively continue straight down hill from rock platform and rap down Chadwicks Revenge.

Descent notes

Climbers Left. To walk down the Northern Descent, go north along the rim track for about 80m to the end of the rock shelf, then head down and left, there is a big boulder above "Punks on the Gib", the gully is just to the left of it. The gully between this buttress and the slabs is too scary to descend (and a bit grim to climb up) To get out, walk up the Northern Descent.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Located on your right as you walk down the northern descent track. Just north of Skiers Crack.

The only route in the Bat Cave. Up to BR then to jug, move right then up past 2 BRs. DBB.

FA: G. Miller

Small slab wall with a mixture of trad and sports climbs.

A short but sweet little splitter at the left side of the 14 wall, then follow the ramp and flake to the top. Tree & gear belay.

Obvious from the descent gully, this was surely not missed by earlier climbers, but was never described.

Start at tree on far left of wall. Up past BR. Requires bolt plates for carrots

FA: T Cartwright

Original description started at tree and traversed right, but it's better to start on the ground and mantel onto the rail.

Up past BR, then juggy wall Requires bolt plates for carrots (2)

FA: T Cartwright

Start just right of Two. Up past 5 BRs to chain.

Rebolted August 2014 on expansions.

FA: T.Cartwright

Right again. Up past 2 BRs to chain.

FA: T Cartwright

The Flake Wall is immediately (1m) right of 14 Wall and is easily identified by the flake which forms a mini-roof over all others.

About 2m right of the double cracks. Up wall past 2 BRs to small overlap, past BR and small tree. DBB.

FA: T.Cartwright

1m right of Five, start up large flake past bolt and up to break, clip another bolt above roof then up easy slab to shared DBB

Up as for Four to overlap, traverse right along flake to join Six. 3BRs.

FA: F.Duxfield & G.Williamson 1996

Start as for Four. Traverse right along low flake to BR, then up and past another BR to tree.

FA: T.Cartwright

From northern end of parking area follow dirt track through boulders and straight across rock platform (20m). Rap down (10m).

Line of bolts left of Chadwick's D.S. Bouldery start to minor lip then up, 4 RBs. Double bolt belay.

Rebolted 2018

FA: T.Cartwright

Where large boulder caps the cliffline. Up closed corner, through roof, up slab. 3RBs. Double bolt belay.

Rebolted 2018

FA: G.Miller Jun 1991

Start 2m right of Chadwick's DS. Up layback, over roof, up slab. 3RBs. Double bolt belay.

Rebolted 2018

FA: G.Miller

Hard start. Layback up arete, followed by plenty of crack. Use the tree to mantle over the top to doubles.

FA: Adam Rabjohns, 12 Oct 2018

Up crack and then step left on to blocks. Finish at tree.

FA: Matt Tranter & Ryan Hanvey, 2014

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Thu 20 Apr
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