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Mt Maroon

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Summary

Bold trad. Big walls & many long multi-pitch routes. Heaps of untouched rock. Most areas are very seldom visited = many crags are in a pristine state. Climbing is quiet, just you & nature most days.

Description

Great views of the Fassifern Valley, the Moogerah Valley, Knapps Peak to the North & Mt. Lindsay + Mt. Barney to the South.

Access issues

Access from the carpark at Cotswold Rd. to the National Park is across gazetted private land - from the sluice gate:

walk up roughly 400m to the National Parks sign:

This is the start of the National Park. Visitors are urged to stay on the path or use established tracks, rather than blazing a new trail.

Approach

Roughly 100kms South of Brisbane:

Access is via 2 roads - Cotswold for all crags bar Maggie's Farm & Paddy's Plain & the southern areas which are accessed via Seidenspinner Rd:

The approach to most of the climbing areas is severe. Allow 1-1:15 to get to the start of Ruby Of India; about 30min to get to Viewpoint Buttress and about 1:15-1:30 to get to the Paparazzi Cliffs. 2hrs to the Tiger Face. 2hrs to the N.W. Columns. Maggie's Farm is a 5km walk in & is, as of 2019, mostly out of mobile coverage = be prepared in case of injury.

Where to stay

Bigriggen is by far & away the best camp ground in the area. Drive another 7kms east towards Rathdowney, turn off, after crossing the Logan River, onto Upper Logan Rd. & follow the signs to "Bigriggen": https://www.bigriggen.com.au/

If you're after a bit more luxury than camping, Bilyana Cottages are 10km North of Maroon, just North of the Maroon Dam turn-off: http://www.bilyanacottages.com/

Ethic

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

History

View historical timeline

Prior to the arrival of Rick White (early 1968) at Maroon, very few climbers had visited the mountain = there are no records of ascents pre-1968. Rick, together with Chris Meadows, Ted Cais, Paul Caffyn & others, established well over 100 routes, all of which are pure trad but the rare button bolt was left behind on the hard East Face routes ("Phaedra" & "The Anti-Christ"). The only enhancement that Rick did, that I know of, was on "The Nympho" (Nympho Buttress), where he drilled a handful of holes into the rock (to insert rods into), so as to aid climb the blank section. Rick established Australia's first grade 22 route with "Valhalla" (East Face) in 1972. The other big contributor of ascents on Maroon is Robert Staszewski, who has climbed there since 1969 and has established well over 100 routes there, all of which are trad. Visiting Victorian climber Chris Peisker put up Queensland's first 24 in 1977: "Wounded Bird". Some development in the 80s by Paul Hoskins, Even Bieske, Chris Frost, Mark Plenderleith & others. Scott Camps arrived on the scene in the early 80s & has established a score of routes there, some using partial bolting to keep them sane, amongst these, two 24s ("Thins" & "C Mon, I Told Ya So"). Herb Brandmeier arrived in the early 90s and established many sport/part sport routes here & controversially opened a new "sport" crag on the mountain - Paparazzi Cliffs in 2004. In the 2000s, Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble established several trad routes. A new hard multipitch route was added to the very exclusive club of routes on the formidable Tiger Face in 2004: "Solar Quartet" (23 with aid=has yet to be freed). Maroon's hardest route was freed in 2007 by Adam Donoghue & Gareth Llewellin: "The Anti-Christ" (28). Mark Gamble

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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