Viewpoint Buttress Mostly Trad climbing 66 routes in crag

About 50m left of Skylark, a small outcrop of rock. The route starts in behind a large gumtree. Too short to be of any real value, but fun for the grade. Crap protection over the crux.

First obvious R facing corner at the crag.

1. 20m 15 - Broken twin cracks lead up to a dead tree & small ledge. Sustained climbing & some run-outs.

2. 30m 15 - Up the lose gully, a tricky move to get into the crack proper, then superb crack/off-width climbing to top. #5 cam is recommended to avoid a 20m run-out. A 50m rap back to ground level.

Pitch 1 gets 1*, pitch 2 gets 2*

The ever narrowing crack just R. of Panic Run. Nice climbing to ledge, then bold to 2nd ledge (some spaced gear). Tricky mantle onto ledge. Finish up P2 of Panic Run.

1. 25m 15 - Up The Thin Grey Line to ledge, then step across right, onto Atomic Bulldust, up this to p2 of Mexicana.

2. 38m 17 - Up Mexicana to top & chains.

A nice outing that avoids the chossy start on Atomic Bulldust. A 50m rap.

The solid crack, R. of The Thin Grey Line.

1. 18m 16 - up the fist-crack (mind the choss)

2. 6m 12 - over the large blocks to big ledge.

3. 38m 17 - finish up Mexicana to chains.

A 50m rap. Can be lead in 1 pitch on a 60m rope - if you manage your runners well.

Pitch two up the centre of the highest part of the wall is one of the most aesthetic lines at viewpoint and is a must do, can be accessed from several other climbs in the vicinity.

1. 22m 16 - Step up onto low block left of the wide groove, climb the widening finger, hand and fist crack, past bulge to ledge.

2. 38m 17 - Climb wall above by the easiest line. Crux is surmounting grass in the cracks.

Belay from chains. A 50m rap.

1. 22m 16 - Up 1st pitch of Mexicana to 1st. belay.

2. 40m 15 - Up p2 to crux, then trend up right on good ledges, then pretty much straight up, to rejoin the route near the top.

Avoids the 17 crux & thin gear on p2. Can be lead in one pitch on a 60m rope by careful rope management.

Belay from chains. A 50m rap.

One of the best climbs at Viewpoint. A must do.

1. 22m 16 - Up terrific 3 sided chimney, to ledge & TB.

2. 38m 17 - Out L over large ledges to main face, then up Mexicana on thin gear to top. (The original route.)

Pitch 1 up the chimney. From the TB on the ledge above pitch 1, climb pitches 2, 3 & 4 of Mettiste. The last 3 pitches can be run into one pitch with good rope management.

1. 20m 15 - Up the terrific flake/fist crack with dogleg at 5m, just R of Rocks of Honey. Up to same ledge & TB as for Rocks Of Honey.

2. 10m 14 - Up the diagonal crack in the corner, around the arete & belay from tree on big ledge.

3. 10m 12 - Up the short corner & belay from large ledge.

4. 20m 15 - Up the face on nice crimpers & top out at your pleasure.

You can run the top 3 pitches together, if you manage your runners well.

Manky off-width. Up On Safari till you arrive at the off-width L of Flight Of The Bumbly. Up this, top out in the chimney behind Sticks & Stones pillar, cross the void to belay from cable on Slush Puppy.

Blunt arete, just R of Valkyrie.

Up Valkyrie for 4-5m on good gear, till you can step out R on small holds. Clip FH (2nd bolt on DS), up passing another 3 carrots, then small gear to top & chains.

Scott put in 4 carrots to protect this now classic route, receiving some criticism from Rob which lead to the naming of the route.

Still one of the best 18s around.

Up the blunt arete on sharp crimpers, to first carrot 4-5m up (gear possible in large overlapping flake), then up to FH, then past another 3 carrots, then small gear to top-out.

The blank inside corner, just R of Sticks & Stones. Up this on thin gear, carefully over the hollow flakes (bassdrum), surmount the overhang, then boldly up the arete, passing a lonely BR (10m run-out).

Vegetated corner just R of Bass Drum. Actually not bad climbing, better than it looks from the ground. Up the crack/weakness in the face, then R into the corner proper. Up this to chimney behind Sticks & Stones pillar, step 2m R across gully, up crack to ledge & tree, continue up to the Echo Point lookout & huge tree there. A stretch on a 60m rope. 50m rap off rings - down right (looking out)

Thin crack 2m left of Slush Puppy. Up face, following weakness & crack, with adequate gear, traverse left onto big L facing ledge near the top, finish up this. Belay from cable on tree above Slush Puppy. A single 50m rope will get you to the ground.

A Mt. Maroon classic. The second crack line R of the prominent Bass Drum corner. A very nice hand crack that utilises jamming, lay-backs & underclings. Follow the crack to the big flake at the top, around the left side of this, up to TB & cable. A 50m rope will get you back to the start.

Thin crack 2m R of Slush Puppy. Up the crack/weakness on thin gear. Belay from cable on tree above Slush Puppy. A single 50m rope will get you back to the ground.

Same start as TT. Climb the corner to the tree. Step left and take the easy chimney above tree, over big block (left) & into cave. Exit on the left side of the cave, using the off-width, then out left to the belay on Slush Puppy. An easier solution & variant. A single 50m rope will get you back to the ground.

A nice line that follows the broken corner with a large tree halfway and a couple of little caves below it. Climb the corner to the tree, climb over this, then head up the thin face above the tree to pass one lonely bolt runner on the left. Climb the hand crack (crux) at the back of the cave, beneath the overhang, top out right, on the chains above Climb & A Half. Warning: chains are v.small, take a small sling/prussik. A single 60m rope will get you back to ground level.

The crack just left of the arete & r. of the dead gumtree. Up the crack to the first small cave, then up to the 2nd cave. Head out right at the overlap, around the face & join Fidelio at it's 4th bolt. Small gear & easier climbing to top & chains. Bold climbing: requires a cool head.

Up C&A Half to 2nd small cave, continue straight up the thin crack, passing a bolt on the left, & into cave. Clip the FH, out onto face & up the open book corner, passing a 3rd b.r. to chains out right.

The face just left of Thunderflash. Bold up to the first carrot at 6-6.5m (hard to spot from ground), small gear to 2nd bolt at 12-13m, past 2 more bolts, then easier climbing & small gear to chains on C&H.

2nd of the 4 cracks on this face. 1m r. of Thunderflash. Tricky & sustained start that leads to more sustained climbing. Pass the Willing & Able tree out on the right, to a hidden RB, then out right (crux) above an overhang, to the arete & top-out. Rap chains out left.

Nice face climbing to the left of the large chimney. Descend via chains at top of this route. One 60m rope will just get you to a safe ledge with rope stretch.

Blank face right of Tripitaka. 4 carrots up the blank face to the horizontal break, then easier climbing with some gear, passing a BR, then more gear to top. Rap off Tripitaka chains.

The thin crack, a couple of metres right & downhill from Thins. Small, but sufficient gear, then tricky mantle at ledge, then up slabby crack to alcove/cave and start of Ghostly Hand. The easiest exit from here is to down-climb to tree & chains above FF&CP.

This is an awesome hand crack that strikes a beautiful line through a roof, and then continues up a nice exposed arête. Perfect jaming, good rock with face holds abound, make this a must do at Viewpoint. This route starts 20m off the deck, and is easily visible from the ground. Descent via 'Tripitaka' chains or walk-off.

Start: Climb GHDS or AF or FF&CP to get to the base of this climb. The start of this route is hard to miss.

Scooped left facing crack, 2m r. of Ghostly Hand DS. Up the thin crack on small gear, step r. onto face at diagonal crack, then easier moves to chains at top.

The arete just right of Alzheimer's Flash. Up AF (gear), then out right to 1st bolt, balancy moves up to 2nd bolt, then bold moves to top (or stop & place gear).

Broken crack 2m R of the blunt arete & FF&CP. Same start as for Masters Of War. Climb the broken crack with finicky gear, to 1st bolt (out right) on The Trevor Gynther Route, then head out left to sloping ledge, up the nice corner to chains on FF&CP.

The shallow corner, just R of Marshmallow. Bold climbing up to first bolt at 10m, over large flake & some friable rock, to 2nd bolt, continue up easier face/shallow corner, to 3rd bolt & top. Rap off cable around tree above Bailliere.

The off-width crack just R of Minimum Security. The only route at Viewpoint with an initial. Up the off-width 5-6m on awkward moves to where it thins & eases and becomes a nice face climb. Belay from the cable around tree. The first route freed at Viewpoint. (You'll need a #5 cam for the off-width.)

Blunt arete, just right of Bailiere. Actually is gear to adequately protect the first half of the route. Top half is devoid of gear, but there is the Bailliere crack off on the Left. Start at the cracked flake, up passing several horizontal cracks, & a large diagonal crack, then featured rock to a large alcove, up 4m to belay tree on the Left. Was onsight soloed by Rob S.

The big R facing corner R of Bailliere & Stay Hungry. This off-width eats big gear! Up off-width till you can merge right onto twin cracks, up this to overhanging block, then exit out left on bomber gear to TB.

The dyke 2m r. of NTFT. Bold climbing up the dyke to first gear at 5m, then small holds & gear, but the gear gets better as you go up. Up corner behind the small tree, then trend l. to belay tree on NTFT.

The last route on the cliff, 2m r. of RFN. Climb the off-width to left of the burn tree, then bridging & corner climbing up the r.facing corner. Trend L at top & TB as for NTFT. Great chimneying and bridging.