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Summary

A great winter alternative to hot winter days at frog. Some good crack-lines & featured walls.

The most frequented crag at Maroon.

Routes are listed L to R.

© (gremlin)

Description

A few multipitch routes, but mostly single pitch. Not a very beginner lead crag, but a couple of easy routes. The crag is not climbed all that frequently, so some loose rock here & there (this is not Frog).

© (gremlin)

Access issues inherited from Mt Maroon

Access from the carpark at Cotswold Rd. to the National Park is across gazetted private land - from the sluice gate:

walk up roughly 400m to the National Parks sign:

This is the start of the National Park. Visitors are urged to stay on the path or use established tracks, rather than blazing a new trail.

Approach

Google Map of Viewpoint Buttress.

Follow the hiker's track up the mountain, for about 15-20mins. Keep an eye out for 3 logs across the old path. About 50m past this are co-joined twin gums, in a clearing, one was burnt in the 2007 fire & is now just a stump.

The turn-off is about 100m past this. You'll come to a long, thin log, embedded in the track as a retainer:

head out right here & you should soon pick up a faint trail leading into Viewpoint. If you see a large rocky knoll ahead of you, on the hiker's trail (20m high) you've gone too far, head back down the track a little ways.

© (gremlin)

Ethic inherited from Mt Maroon

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

History

History timeline chart

First developed & named by Rick White in 1969. He was attracted mostly by the big walls on Maroon, but did establish a couple of routes here. Most of the development has been by Robert Staszewski. Scott Camps did establish a couple of routes here in the 80s. Scott put in 4 carrots to protect his classic "Sticks And Stones", receiving some criticism from Rob which lead to the naming of the route. Scott also established the hardest route here: Thins (24). Herb Brandmeier established 4 routes here in the 90s with Paul Wright. One of his sports routes (21) was literally within arm's reach of Valkerie & the offending bolts were soon removed. Mark Gamble established a handful of routes here in the 2000s.

The crag has now been superseded by other (mostly sports) crags, but still has a lot of valuable trad routes to offer the trad enthusiast.

© (gremlin)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

About 50m left of Skylark, a small outcrop of rock. The route starts in behind a large gumtree. Too short to be of any real value, but fun for the grade. Crap protection over the crux.

FA: Mark Gamble, 2007

The thin crack in a small alcove, about 20m left of Skylark. Up the crack on small gear & inventive moves to the overhanging tree.

FA: Rick White & Paul Caffyn, 1969

FFA: Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble, 2007

The first crack at the left end of the cliff. Up crack, then up the face on the right, past the bulge to tree belay.

FA: Rick White & Paul Caffyn, 1969

FFA: Robert Staszewski & Chris Larque, 1980

Thin crack, 2m r. of Skylark. Very thin crack, easier than it looks.

FA: Rick White & Paul Caffyn, 1969

FFA: Robert Staszewski & Chris Larque, 1980

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Skylark Ledge unknown area
2
3
10m

Routes

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Grade Route

The first arete encountered, about 2m R. of High Strake.

FA: Rick White, 1969

FFA: Robert Staszewski & Michael Groom, 1982

Up White Heat for about 20m, then head out left.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Steve Staszeswki, 1983

Hand-crack & face climbing, about 2.5m R. of White Heat. Poor rock in the lower half, easier but run-out in the top half.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Karen Sippel, 1980

The arete right of Tomboy. Up the crack & arete, passing a lonely BR at 12m. Some thin gear in top half where the climbing eases.

FA: Scott Camps & Richard Hendersen, 1986

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Simon Vos Ledge unknown area
4
12
18m
2

Routes

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Grade Route

First obvious R facing corner at the crag.

  1. 20m 15 - Broken twin cracks lead up to a dead tree & small ledge. Sustained climbing & some run-outs.

  2. 30m 15 - Up the lose gully, a tricky move to get into the crack proper, then superb crack/off-width climbing to top. #5 cam is recommended to avoid a 20m run-out. A 50m rap back to ground level.

Pitch 1 gets 1*, pitch 2 gets 2*

FA: Ian Haverson, Rick White & Emil Ihander, 1973

FFA: Simon Uren & Trevor Howard, 1983

The ever narrowing crack just R. of Panic Run. Nice climbing to ledge, then bold to 2nd ledge (some spaced gear). Tricky mantle onto ledge. Finish up P2 of Panic Run.

FA: Scott Camps

  1. 25m 15 - Up The Thin Grey Line to ledge, then step across right, onto Atomic Bulldust, up this to p2 of Mexicana.

  2. 38m 17 - Up Mexicana to top & chains.

A nice outing that avoids the chossy start on Atomic Bulldust. A 50m rap.

FA: Brad Carmady & Terry Svingen, 2006

The solid crack, R. of The Thin Grey Line.

  1. 18m 16 - up the fist-crack (mind the choss)

  2. 6m 12 - over the large blocks to big ledge.

  3. 38m 17 - finish up Mexicana to chains.

A 50m rap. Can be lead in 1 pitch on a 60m rope - if you manage your runners well.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Bob Killip, 1972

1 16
2 17

Pitch two up the centre of the highest part of the wall is one of the most aesthetic lines at viewpoint and is a must do, can be accessed from several other climbs in the vicinity.

  1. 22m 16 - Step up onto low block left of the wide groove, climb the widening finger, hand and fist crack, past bulge to ledge.

  2. 38m 17 - Climb wall above by the easiest line. Crux is surmounting grass in the cracks.

Belay from chains. A 50m rap.

FFA: Rob Staszewski & Bob Killip, 1972

  1. 22m 16 - Up 1st pitch of Mexicana to 1st. belay.

  2. 40m 15 - Up p2 to crux, then trend up right on good ledges, then pretty much straight up, to rejoin the route near the top.

Avoids the 17 crux & thin gear on p2. Can be lead in one pitch on a 60m rope by careful rope management.

Belay from chains. A 50m rap.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Trevor Howard, 1983

One of the best climbs at Viewpoint. A must do.

  1. 22m 16 - Up terrific 3 sided chimney, to ledge & TB.

  2. 38m 17 - Out L over large ledges to main face, then up Mexicana on thin gear to top. (The original route.)

FFA: Robert Staszewski, Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1973

Pitch 1 up the chimney. From the TB on the ledge above pitch 1, climb pitches 2, 3 & 4 of Mettiste. The last 3 pitches can be run into one pitch with good rope management.

FFA: Robert Staszewski, Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1973

  1. 20m 15 - Up the terrific flake/fist crack with dogleg at 5m, just R of Rocks of Honey. Up to same ledge & TB as for Rocks Of Honey.

  2. 10m 14 - Up the diagonal crack in the corner, around the arete & belay from tree on big ledge.

  3. 10m 12 - Up the short corner & belay from large ledge.

  4. 20m 15 - Up the face on nice crimpers & top out at your pleasure.

You can run the top 3 pitches together, if you manage your runners well.

FFA: Rob Staszewski & Bob Killip, 1972

Start at the same flake as Mettiste, head up R, up the vegetated ramp to thin crack, up this to ledge & shared TB with On Safari.

FA: Mark Gamble, Owen Klan & Dan Roe, 2007

The horrid, vegetated, friable corner just left of Valkerie. Up the corner on dodgy pro and friable rock to ledge & TB.

FA: unknown

If you can overcome the horrid first pitch, the twin cracks above are a joy, with good pro the whole way & a thought provoking crux.

FA: Brad Carmady & Mark Gamble, 2006

Manky off-width. Up On Safari till you arrive at the off-width L of Flight Of The Bumbly. Up this, top out in the chimney behind Sticks & Stones pillar, cross the void to belay from cable on Slush Puppy.

FA: Mark Gamble & Nick Coombes, 2007

Up blank face between On Safari & Valkerie. Was bolted - these have been chopped.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright

One of the best routes at Viewpoint. The thin crack just L of Sticks & Stones.

Nice moves up the thinning crack on good gear. Chains on S&S.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Ian Thomas, 1972

FFA: Robert Staszewski & Karen Sippel, 1980

Blunt arete, just R of Valkyrie.

Up Valkyrie for 4-5m on good gear, till you can step out R on small holds. Clip FH (2nd bolt on DS), up passing another 3 carrots, then small gear to top & chains.

Scott put in 4 carrots to protect this now classic route, receiving some criticism from Rob which lead to the naming of the route.

Still one of the best 18s around.

FA: Scott Camps & Robert Wannell, 1985

Up the blunt arete on sharp crimpers, to first carrot 4-5m up (gear possible in large overlapping flake), then up to FH, then past another 3 carrots, then small gear to top-out.

FA: Duncan Steel, 1991

The blank inside corner, just R of Sticks & Stones. Up this on thin gear, carefully over the hollow flakes (bassdrum), surmount the overhang, then boldly up the arete, passing a lonely BR (10m run-out).

FA: Scott Camps & Paul Tattersal, 1987

Vegetated corner just R of Bass Drum. Actually not bad climbing, better than it looks from the ground. Up the crack/weakness in the face, then R into the corner proper. Up this to chimney behind Sticks & Stones pillar, step 2m R across gully, up crack to ledge & tree, continue up to the Echo Point lookout & huge tree there. A stretch on a 60m rope. 50m rap off rings - down right (looking out)

FA: Mark Gamble, 2007

Thin crack 2m left of Slush Puppy. Up face, following weakness & crack, with adequate gear, traverse left onto big L facing ledge near the top, finish up this. Belay from cable on tree above Slush Puppy. A single 50m rope will get you to the ground.

FA: Robert Stazewski & Ron Collett, 2009

A Mt. Maroon classic. The second crack line R of the prominent Bass Drum corner. A very nice hand crack that utilises jamming, lay-backs & underclings. Follow the crack to the big flake at the top, around the left side of this, up to TB & cable. A 50m rope will get you back to the start.

FA: Trevor Howard & Simon Uren, 1983

Thin crack 2m R of Slush Puppy. Up the crack/weakness on thin gear. Belay from cable on tree above Slush Puppy. A single 50m rope will get you back to the ground.

FA: Scott Camps & John Smoothy, 1986

Same start as TT. Climb the corner to the tree. Step left and take the easy chimney above tree, over big block (left) & into cave. Exit on the left side of the cave, using the off-width, then out left to the belay on Slush Puppy. An easier solution & variant. A single 50m rope will get you back to the ground.

FA: Mark Gamble & Stephen Daunt, 2008

A nice line that follows the broken corner with a large tree halfway and a couple of little caves below it. Climb the corner to the tree, climb over this, then head up the thin face above the tree to pass one lonely bolt runner on the left. Climb the hand crack (crux) at the back of the cave, beneath the overhang, top out right, on the chains above Climb & A Half. Warning: chains are v.small, take a small sling/prussik. A single 60m rope will get you back to ground level.

FA: Mark Gamble & Stephen Daunt, 2008

The crack just left of the arete & r. of the dead gumtree. Up the crack to the first small cave, then up to the 2nd cave. Head out right at the overlap, around the face & join Fidelio at it's 4th bolt. Small gear & easier climbing to top & chains. Bold climbing: requires a cool head.

FA: Robert Staszewski & John Mendoza, 1982

Up C&A Half to 2nd small cave, continue straight up the thin crack, passing a bolt on the left, & into cave. Clip the FH, out onto face & up the open book corner, passing a 3rd b.r. to chains out right.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1995

The face just left of Thunderflash. Bold up to the first carrot at 6-6.5m (hard to spot from ground), small gear to 2nd bolt at 12-13m, past 2 more bolts, then easier climbing & small gear to chains on C&H.

FA: Scott Camps & Brendan Wilson, 1986

First crack of 4 on this face. Classic thin finger crack & face climbing. 2m r. of Fidelio.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Michael Groom, 1982

Up Thunderflash to 1st crux, then step R to Ready crack & up this to top. Avoids the nasty start on Ready.

FA: Brad Carmady & Mark Gamble, 2006

2nd of the 4 cracks on this face. 1m r. of Thunderflash. Tricky & sustained start that leads to more sustained climbing. Pass the Willing & Able tree out on the right, to a hidden RB, then out right (crux) above an overhang, to the arete & top-out. Rap chains out left.

FA: Robert Staszewski, Michael Groom & Dennis Bridger, 1982

3rd of the cracks on this face, 2m r. of Ready. Up crack on good gear & holds, to tree, then FH.

FA: Robert Staszewski., Michael Groom & Michael Siwek, 1982

Last of 4 cracks on this face, just r. of Willing. Up very thin crack on v.small gear to tree, then up to FH shared with Willing.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Michael Groom, 1982

Nice face climbing to the left of the large chimney. Descend via chains at top of this route. One 60m rope will just get you to a safe ledge with rope stretch.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1992

The chimney Right of Tripitaka, lots of big gear.

Blank face right of Tripitaka. 4 carrots up the blank face to the horizontal break, then easier climbing with some gear, passing a BR, then more gear to top. Rap off Tripitaka chains.

FA: Scott Camps & Matt Simpson, 1995

The thin crack, a couple of metres right & downhill from Thins. Small, but sufficient gear, then tricky mantle at ledge, then up slabby crack to alcove/cave and start of Ghostly Hand. The easiest exit from here is to down-climb to tree & chains above FF&CP.

FA: Robert Staszewski & John Mendoza, 1983

This is an awesome hand crack that strikes a beautiful line through a roof, and then continues up a nice exposed arête. Perfect jaming, good rock with face holds abound, make this a must do at Viewpoint. This route starts 20m off the deck, and is easily visible from the ground. Descent via 'Tripitaka' chains or walk-off.

Start: Climb GHDS or AF or FF&CP to get to the base of this climb. The start of this route is hard to miss.

FA: Rob Staszewski & John Hattink, 1974

Scooped left facing crack, 2m r. of Ghostly Hand DS. Up the thin crack on small gear, step r. onto face at diagonal crack, then easier moves to chains at top.

FA: Kevin Pearl & John Gardiner

The arete just right of Alzheimer's Flash. Up AF (gear), then out right to 1st bolt, balancy moves up to 2nd bolt, then bold moves to top (or stop & place gear).

FA: Richard Henderson & Scott Camps, 1986

Climb Marshmallow till you can clip the BR out L. Up on thin sequency holds to 2nd BR, then easier climbing, but run-out, to chains on FF&CP.

FA: Darrin Carter & John Hattink, 1997

Broken crack 2m R of the blunt arete & FF&CP. Same start as for Masters Of War. Climb the broken crack with finicky gear, to 1st bolt (out right) on The Trevor Gynther Route, then head out left to sloping ledge, up the nice corner to chains on FF&CP.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Shane Chemello, 1982

The shallow corner, just R of Marshmallow. Bold climbing up to first bolt at 10m, over large flake & some friable rock, to 2nd bolt, continue up easier face/shallow corner, to 3rd bolt & top. Rap off cable around tree above Bailliere.

FA: Trevor Gynther

Shallow groove & left facing corner just R of TGR. Face climb the shallow alcove with just enough gear where you need it. TB on Bailliere.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Shane Chemello, 1982

The shallow groove 1.5m R of Going Up. Climbing is better than it looks from the ground. Belay from cable above Bailliere.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Peter Tocker, 1982

The off-width crack just R of Minimum Security. The only route at Viewpoint with an initial. Up the off-width 5-6m on awkward moves to where it thins & eases and becomes a nice face climb. Belay from the cable around tree. The first route freed at Viewpoint. (You'll need a #5 cam for the off-width.)

FA: Robert Staszewski, Rick Harding & John Hattink, 1972

Blunt arete, just right of Bailiere. Actually is gear to adequately protect the first half of the route. Top half is devoid of gear, but there is the Bailliere crack off on the Left. Start at the cracked flake, up passing several horizontal cracks, & a large diagonal crack, then featured rock to a large alcove, up 4m to belay tree on the Left. Was onsight soloed by Rob S.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Karen Sippel, 1982

Straight up the off-width crack to chimney & tree belay. This route eats large gear.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Rick McGregor, 1975

The big R facing corner R of Bailliere & Stay Hungry. This off-width eats big gear! Up off-width till you can merge right onto twin cracks, up this to overhanging block, then exit out left on bomber gear to TB.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Rick McGregor, 1975

The thin crack, 2m r. of the Big Mac corner. Friable rock & a nasty run-out above the 2nd ledge, make this a poor + unsafe lead. Belay from tree.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Karen Sippel, 1982

The thin crack 2m right of Outlaw. Gear is finicky, but good. Interesting & technical climbing. Belay from tree above Outlaw.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Peter Toker, 1981

The dyke 2m r. of NTFT. Bold climbing up the dyke to first gear at 5m, then small holds & gear, but the gear gets better as you go up. Up corner behind the small tree, then trend l. to belay tree on NTFT.

FA: Nick Coombes & Mark Gamble, 2007

The last route on the cliff, 2m r. of RFN. Climb the off-width to left of the burn tree, then bridging & corner climbing up the r.facing corner. Trend L at top & TB as for NTFT. Great chimneying and bridging.

FA: Mark Gamble & Dan Roe, 2007

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