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The Hourglass Cliffs

11
AU

Seasonality

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Summary

90m high at its highest point, dominated by the Frogmouth Cave in the middle. North facing, it gets the sun all day long.

Routes are arranged L to R.

Description

Rock quality varies, super soft ignimbrite in the Frogmouth Cave, to quite hard on the face.

Access issues inherited from Mt Maroon

Access from the carpark at Cotswold Rd. to the National Park is across gazetted private land - from the sluice gate:

walk up roughly 400m to the National Parks sign:

This is the start of the National Park. Visitors are urged to stay on the path or use established tracks, rather than blazing a new trail.

Approach

The most direct approach: walk up the hiker's track till you arrive at the treeline, keep walking for another 200m until you see the first QPWS sign:

Walk back about 30m & you'll see a faint trail on the Right.

Follow this trail down to & across the gully & up the steep slope opposite, following the cairns & track, till you see the rocky outcrop, this will bring you to the top lh side of The Hourglass Cliffs.

Following this pathway, the NP boundary starts around the gully & steep walk up.

Ethic inherited from Mt Maroon

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

History

View historical timeline

First developed by Trevor Gynther & Tony Kelly in 1972, who pegged their way up Peregrine Assault, later in the 70s by Trevor & Robert Staszewski, with Hourglass. Mark Plenderleith & Denise Crook established a mixed route here in the 90s. In 2010, Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont established 8 routes here.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Routes

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FA: Trevor Gynther & Robert Staszewski

Up the slope, right of the Frogmouth Cave. Crack & face climbing. The first bolt can be spotted from the ground.

FA: Mark Plenderleith & Denise Crook, 1992

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