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Speed Buttress

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Summary

A small crag, Horizontally, but tall, imposing cliffs.

Description

Good, solid rock, good crack + corner climbing, routes here up to 40m

Access issues inherited from Maggie's Farm

Mobile phone reception is virtually nonexistent here. As of 2019 - Telstra has some coverage, Optus=a little, Vodafone =0. A 000 call connects with any carrier available. Have tick repellent with you: do a tick inspection at the crag & when you get back to the car. Some have encountered leeches here as well.

Approach

The crag starts just past Widow Maker Buttress, and below Right of Widow Maker Cleft.

Access from the grassy knoll below the Main Wall isn't too bad until you arrive at the steep scramble in front of Widow Maker Buttress. Once past this, you arrive at a gully with the prominent Widow Maker arete on the Left & a bevy of Speed Buttress routes on the Right wall, the star being Wounded Bird - Qld's first 24.

Ethic inherited from Maggie's Farm

Please close the gate at the Jurd Bridge crossing. National Park = no pets or animals allowed.

History

History timeline chart

Developed by Rick & Ted in May of 1972, who started with "Speed Crack" in that first rush of climbing here. A very young Kim Carrigan established a couple of routes here in the early 70s.

Chris Peisker established Queensland's first 24 here: Wounded Bird, being accompanied by Rick White & Coral Bowman, in 1977.

Robert Staszewski & Joe Lynch established a few more in the 80s.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

At the top of the gully: A little wall with a good fist corner in the middle.

  1. 20m Up blocks for 20m to ledge & belay.

  2. 20m Up steep RH crack from the ledge.

Can be done in one pitch.

FA: Rob Staszewski & Joe Lynch, 1980

First 20m or pitch; as for Minute Man, then the second half up the perfect fist crack corner to top.

A three star route!

FA: Joe Lynch & Rob Staszewski, 1980

Initialed: "V"

Up the Left facing corner. Hard technical laybacking.

History: first spotted & named by Ted Cais in '72.

FA: Joe Friend & Kim Carrigan, 1973

A crack somewhere here.

"At Maggie's Farm, McGregor has added Broken Wings 22."

(Thrutch mag #69 Nov/Dec 1976.)

FA: Rick McGregor & Nick Taylor, 1976

The smooth crack on blank rock, on the wall right of Velocette and back about 10m.

Queensland's first 24.

FA: Chris Peisker (Rick belayed), 1977

Start: On the pillar below Wounded Bird, split by a hand crack.

Take the Left crack of the hand cracks. A hard start leads to a scrubby top-out.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Joe Lynch, 1980

Start: On the pillar below Wounded Bird. Right of Left Out.

Take the Right crack of the two - good at the top.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Joe Lynch, 1980

2 short pitches following a delightful crack-line splitting the main buttress.

  1. Easily up to top of small pillar, then straight up hand crack splitting the face to a small ledge & loose block. Then up the wider crack to a large ledge.

  2. Up over large blocks to the next ledge, then ascend the 3" crack splitting the face.

The route ends at same ledge as Mother Superior: TB. Lower off back down the route, or down MS & walk back down hill to the start.

FA: Rick White & Ted Cais, 1972

As per above.

FA: Rick White & Ted Cais, 1980

Start at the initialled "L", about 3m Right of Speed Crack.

Hand & finger jambing up beside the sloping ramp. A nice crack line. An alternative start to Speed Crack.

FA: Joe Friend & Kim Carrigan, 1973

Up above Speed Crack. Walk up to Tough Mamma Wall, tben follow the ledge back up left.

Initialled "MI" - A short, hard, 5" crack narrows to 3" at the top. A #5 cam is handy.

Rap off tree. Speed Crack joins this at the top.

FA: Ted Cais & Rick White, 1972

Initialled - the offwidth crack in the corner, right of MI. Pleasant hand jambs up a nice corner.

2019 note: please try and avoid this route - there's a magnificent staghorn growing in the top crack.

FA: Rick White & Ted Cais, 1972

Did you know?

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

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