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Access: Intended burn

Closure of Mt. Maroon later this week due to an intended late burn on private land abutting the mountain.

Burn delayed due to expected rain Monday 18th & Tuesday 19th October.

See warning details and discuss

Created 10 days ago - Edited 3 days ago
15

Summary

The pick of the climbing at Maggie's Farm. Frog quality cracks.

Description

Distinctive orange coloured rock, generally pretty solid, but softer around the cave. 60m high walls. A bitch to get to.

Access issues inherited from Maggie's Farm

Mobile phone reception is virtually nonexistent here. As of 2019 - Telstra has some coverage, Optus=a little, Vodafone =0. A 000 call connects with any carrier available. Have tick repellent with you: do a tick inspection at the crag & when you get back to the car. Some have encountered leeches here as well.

Approach

Scramble up the steep scree slope in front of Widow Maker Buttress, then more steep scree in front of Speed Buttress. About 2-2.5hrs walk in.

Ethic inherited from Maggie's Farm

Please close the gate at the Jurd Bridge crossing. National Park = no pets or animals allowed.

History

History timeline chart

No routes established here by Rick & Ted in their 1972 weekend spree, but Rick came back later that year to establish Grass Lane with Rob Rankin, and later, in 1974 with John Hattink to establish the classic Tough Mamma route. Rick came back with Ian Thomas a year later: 1973, to establish Magician here - on the far Right of the Wall. Other developers include Kim Carigan, Robert Staszewski, Coral Bowman, Fred From & Kevin Pearl.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The impossibly thin crack left of Tough Mamma.

Start: The LH end of Tough Mamma Wall.

Free moves in groove at 25m. Abseil at top.

An excellent aid route, using only crackers. Take a good selection of small nuts & stoppers. (RURP 1973)

FA: Joe Friend & Kim Carrigan, 1973

Start: Just Left of Grass Lane.

Direct and varied jambing, but watch the touchy block.

FA: Joe Friend, Kim Carrigan, John Crocker & Matthew Dunstan, 1973

The grass filled corner crack, left of the cave. Up the corner, over the overhanging blocks, step Right and up to the top. Enjoyable varied climbing.

FA: Rick White & Rob Rankin, 1972

"To the left of Tough Mamma is Dragon Woman 20, by Kevin Pearl & Fred From, which goes through a small roof." (Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977)

The thin crack immediately Left of Little Queen. Up this, through the small rooflet.

FA: Fred From & Kevin Pearl, 1977

The thin crack just Left of TM. Up this to ledge & TB.

Done by Coral Bowman (US) in 1977, likely the first female ascent at this grade in AU.

FA: Coral Bowman, Chris Peisker & Rick White, 1977

The fantastic crack line in the middle of the crag (see topo).

  1. 20m 21 - Up the Left crack to a ledge at 20m & belay.

  2. 40m - continue to top & TB.

FA: John Hattink & Rick White, 1974

FFA: Nick Taylor, 1976

A more complete finish of the crack Right of Tough Mamma.

Up this till it blanks out, then left into Tough Mamma & up to top.

FA: Joe Lynch & Robert Staszewski, 1980

"Egg Everett & Rick White did Black Magic Woman 22, Right of Tough Mamma."

(Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977.)

(Possibly the thin crack 1m Right of TM?)

FA: Egg Everett & Rick White, 1977

"Even further Right of Tough Mamma is Hard Headed Woman 18, by Kevin Pearl & Fred From."

(Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977.)

FA: Kevin Pearl & Fred From, 1977

Start in the alcove at the initialed "M", up the slope, Right of the free standing pillar.

  1. 45m 20 - Up the line to log tree at 45m.

  2. 20m 20 - Up to top.

Sustained crack climbing, exceptionally hard in places. Ground up first ascent, no rests, no inspection, no cleaning.

FA: Rick White & Ian Thomas, 1973

Start: At the flakes 6-8m R of Magician behind small tree.

  1. Grovel up the flaring vegetated off-width (nasty start), and into chimney, then more grovelling up this. Step back L into the crack proper and follow to small niche above. Climb thru this & follow steep cracks to below loose flakes, up these & belay on loose pillar.

  2. Climb corner & down L to TB and rap.

FA: Steven Waite & Allison Greenhalg, 2005

To avoid the tough direct start, take the overhanging flake/crack & step R into chimney and grovel up this.

Rest as per Enduro.

FA: Steve Waite & Alison Greenhalg, 2005

FA: Joe Lynch & Rob Staszewski

Inside corner just Left of Dutch Courage. The dodgy corner crack with a deadly flake.

FA: Rick White

Inside corner, just Left of Dutch Courage. The 2nd of 2 hand-cracks in this little corner alcove.

FA: Rick White

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