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Grey Wall

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Summary

Nice slab climbing on grippy, frictiony rock. An excellent little crag for beginner trad lead climbers, with RBs protecting gear placements. Routes are listed from L to R.

Description

Wedge shaped cliff, shortest at the LH end (ca.40m), 60-70m at the RH end, near the Frog Mouth cave.

Access issues inherited from Mt Maroon

Access from the carpark at Cotswold Rd. to the National Park is across gazetted private land - from the sluice gate:

walk up roughly 400m to the National Parks sign:

This is the start of the National Park. Visitors are urged to stay on the path or use established tracks, rather than blazing a new trail.

Approach

As per The Hourglass Cliffs

Ethic inherited from Mt Maroon

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

History

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First route here: 1972 by Tony Kelly & Trevor Gynther: Peregrine Assault. 2010 saw further development by Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at the "S" below the Right sweeping overhang above. Follow the line of spaced RBs (good gear between), slightly left trending to the 5th RB below the orange overhang, then trend diagonally up & right (more gear to 6th bolt) towards anchors on YKROMD, passing another RB shared with YKROMD. Brilliant climbing on grippy rock, with good gear between the RBs. Small wires, cams & tricams.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010

A few meters down the slope from Stigma - initialled KD. Good gear to first RB, beautiful climbing over grippy, featured rock with good gear between the RBs. Straight up to the chains. Shares anchor with Stigma + Dogma. Small wires, cams & tricams.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010

Start at the "D" - 5m down the slope from YKROMD. Left leaning route. Tricky start to very low first bolt, then easy up to 5th RB at headwall, slab moves to 7th, big run-out from 7th to 8th RB = small gear up to 8th bolt on face, (Tricams & offsets are ideal in the pockety rock), then 2 more RBs bunched up to crux - exiting to chains. Shares chains with the previous 2 routes.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010

2m Right of Dogma. Initialled K. Slightly left trending route. 1st RB is 5m up, hidden atop a block (gear below it if needed). Big run-out (12+m) from 7th to 8th bolt, but plenty of small gear available. Small wires, offsets, tricams & cams. Left trending from 8th & 9th RB to chains (gear placements at the top-out if desired).

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010

Start: make your way along the narrow ledge right of Karma, at the initials "IFG", 7-8m above the ground.

Hard start, then easier up the slab to anchors.

NB: It is prudent to secure your belayer, given that it's a very narrow ledge about 8m off the deck. There is a small slot for gear next to the initials:

All RBs.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010

Start: walk to the end of the narrow ledge right of Karma; initialled "BM". Climb gingerly, the rock quality is not all that great at the start, but improves as you climb.

Shares an RB (#3) with Black Velvet, then trends slightly left (BV veers out Right). shares last 2 RBs with IFG up to chains on ledge.

NB: Given that the belay ledge is 10m off the deck & the rock is friable, securing the belayer is good practice:

3 RBs to start, then FHs to the last 2 RBs of IFG & chains.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010

15-20m down the slope from general belay area, initialed "BV". Shares an RB with black Munga (which trends left), then veers out Right. Very sustained climbing on friable rock. Save some strength for the top-out over the death blocks up to the chain around tree.

All FHs bar the 1 shared RB.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010

About 2m Right of Black Velvet. Initialled "PM".

  1. 20m 18 - Up the rib. Take small to medium cams + wires. Chain belay.

  2. 35m 20 - Straight up till you arrive at the chains. All RBs.

FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010

30m or so from the lh side: down the slope till you arrive at the prominent rib:

  1. 12m 18 - Climb using the inside corner to a belay point (belay tree now gone, almost 50yrs on).

  2. 31m 18 - Manky rock, then easy climbing to top.

  3. 24m - easy climbing/scrambling to safe walk-off.

(Original RURP description)

NB: This route was done back in the day when 40m ropes were the only ones available. One could, in theory, run the whole lot together with smart management of one's runners.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Tony Kelly, 1972

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