Routes in Mt Maroon

Starts at the same pointy flake as PB

Inside corner, just Left of Dutch Courage. The 2nd of 2 hand-cracks in this little corner alcove.

A short chimney which then turns into a sustained, fingery face climb.

In the cave above are some acrobatic moves at the start of the second pitch. Easy finish up the face to the top. Great photo opportunity. Can be done from the bottom of the cave (Alison's Variant) or the ledge above depending on your vertical disadvantage. This cave also serves as a rap station for a single 50m rope.

Up the sloping corner.

Height & grade are unknown.

Start: At 5th belay of Beau Brummel

1. __m gr? Straight up from belay following a crack line.

2. __m gr? Continue to top.

2 pitches, about 60m, the grade is around 19ish.

Inside corner just Left of Dutch Courage. The dodgy corner crack with a deadly flake.

Right next to Prancing Puntz. Looks imposing, but its not that hard.

The ever narrowing crack just R. of Panic Run. Nice climbing to ledge, then bold to 2nd ledge (some spaced gear). Tricky mantle onto ledge. Finish up P2 of Panic Run.

The chimney Right of Tripitaka, lots of big gear.

Up blank face between On Safari & Valkerie. Was bolted - these have been chopped.

Next right of Adagio.

Start: Just left of Sometimes I Do. Up the crackline, to a FH & mallion, continue up, passing another FH.

Start: The square dot furtherest left at the crag.

Easy start (gear up the crack) and easy finish (no gear), with a dynamic crux in the middle, passing 2 FHs & a bolt (shared with IHAIP), to chains on tree above.

Starts below the third cave. Half-way up it crosses the Path of Lichen and goes on up past the right side of the cave

Up right side edge of big cave.

The inside LH corner of the big cave - opposite Valhalla.

Characterised by poor rock & poor gear = hence the name.

Start: Faint dot on the rock a few metres R of the above alcove.

1. 45m 25 - Up thin sloping slab onto overhanging bulge & BR 5m up. Another sloping easy slab, then past left-hand side of crack. Climb right passing another BR, up some hairy moves and into cave. Now the business gets serious: Up the blunt arête passing several BRs to thin crux before the belay.

2. 20m - Up left corner with good jugs and gear, to horizontal ledge half-way up this pitch. Move right off this and up into the crack to top.

Rap chains at top.

Characterised by a 10" corner crack. This eliminate follows the wide crack corner on the right side of Widowmaker Buttress. Up corner to body crack, up this to another crack-corner. Excellent, sustained crack climbing.

Starts 5m right of ATPOL. Arguably the hardest climb on the cliff. It contains an aid move up at the blanc headwall, but it can be climbed by moving right and up the corner.

Start: A Trick Of The Light.

1. Up ATOTL pitch 1 to belay.

2. 20m - head straight up the crack-line, where ATOTL p2 veers left, between Spanish Dancer & ATOTL.

Scooped left facing crack, 2m r. of Ghostly Hand DS. Up the thin crack on small gear, step r. onto face at diagonal crack, then easier moves to chains at top.

Shares the start of FML before branching right after the third bolt.

Start: At the dot 1m R of GC.

Excellent climbing, easier than it looks. Rap chains at top.

Start: The painted dot a few metres right of ATOTL.

The quality of the rock leaves something to be desired in places, but the climb well and truly makes up for it. Can be done easily in 2 Pitches, 1st chain on P1 is for raping down; second chains are much more comfortable for belaying.

1. 45m __

2. 20m __

"A debatable classic"

Start: The dot in the shallow L facing corner a few metres R of OIW.

Up the very blank L trending corner to the top of the pillar. The name says it all.

Rap chains at top.

Starts at prominent blunt arete

Start: At the dot (marked HA & BE) below the shallow cave – a few metres R of SD.

1. 45m __ - Scramble up to below the cave (with gear), then up thin crack on orange sloping slab, following the FHs.

2. 20m __ – Up the crack above the chains. Place gear as high as possible so you don’t damage the beautiful Grass tree if you fall – besides, it’s hard to get the spikes out of your backside.

Best of the climbs in this top section

Start: The dot on the small pillar a few metres R of DS.

Up L trending easy face/crack & into corner, onto sharp arête & follow FHs up the face.

Start: about 50-70m Right of the N. E. Buttress, 40-50m Left of TRHFD.

Height is a best estimate only.

Route details & pitches unknown.

Start: As for Hidden Agenda.

Up the crack below the cave, up to a bulge, and onto the arête, passing the cave. Short traverse right onto the bulge and up a hard layback. Follow the crack and face to top.

Start: LH column.

Tricky move to the first FH, then hard moves to the 2nd FH (crux), up past a 3rd FH to a horizontal crack, tricky moves up to a bolt on the LHS of the arête, then cruise up to top and TB 5m behind pillar.

(FHs marked on topo. Horizontal break at 3/4 height is good for medium sized cams.)

Up left to inside of cave. Same rap chain as Maltesers.

Start: The dot just R of the small All Hands On Dick pillar.

An acrobatic little number. Up the crack line (gear) to the first bolt 7-8m up, then up passing 2 more BRs, (don’t despair at the overhang, but locate the hidden pocket), then 5 FHs to chains at top.

Shares chains with UFG.

Was bolted, these have been chopped.

(The person who chopped the bolts has the philosophy that sports routes & trad routes should not inhabit the same cliff as bolts intrude upon the trad ethic.)

Up the LH side of the shallow pillar.

Starts at the same pointy flake as PB

Starts right 15m up hill at the big pointy flake of rock leaning against the wall, which aids the vertically challenged

The horrid, vegetated, friable corner just left of Valkerie. Up the corner on dodgy pro and friable rock to ledge & TB.

The shallow corner, just R of Marshmallow. Bold climbing up to first bolt at 10m, over large flake & some friable rock, to 2nd bolt, continue up easier face/shallow corner, to 3rd bolt & top. Rap off cable around tree above Bailliere.

Right of Outish Bong, around the middle of the N.E. Buttress.

Starts from the bottom, up right bypass the cave.

Start: just Right of ARFE - the middle dot (in the alcove).

Fairly easy for the grade; two hard moves. Up trending R following the flakes & cracks into the cave. One BR, the rest is trad.

Shares chains with ARFE.

Up RH side of the shallow pillar.

Eleven pitches of adventure climbing.

Start: Cross the gully from the hiker's track, behind Egg Rock:

★ Deception I 14 - Egg Rock

scramble across the steep gully on the other side, then up the other side to a terraced ledge. Right along this a few metres, you will come to the initialed 'DI' shown here:

★ Deception I 14 - Deception I start

(This is Rick's original route description - the grades have been converted to the Ewbank System & pitch lengths to metres. The hemp rope they used, was 120' [36m] & 1.5" in diameter. This precluded longer pitch lengths. With modern, thinner, kernmantle ropes & good runner management, you can certainly run pitches together, thus shortening ascent times. Notes re "tree belay" & "peg belay" should be allowed for: trees may have vanished in the 51yrs since first ascent & new ones appeared.)

1. 33m 12 - Move up to right, over blocks & ledges. Block belay.

2. 30m 13 - Move left & up obvious scrubby corner. Peg belay.

3. 9m 12 - Shift belay up below small cave. [NB: This is the 1st belay ledge of ROI.]

4. 33m 13 - Mantle the shelf above, now move up Right to corner & tree belay behind slab. (NB: Shares first 10-15m of ROI p2]

5. 18m 12 - Move right to base of chimney. Tree belay.

6. 36m 14 - Up chimney, then out left & up smooth slab, climb razorback edge, passing overhang, then easier rock to verandah.

7. 9m 13 - shift belay up to good ledge below overhang.

8. 36m 13 - Up obvious 80° wall on good holds, tree belay at base of crack.

9. 9m 13 - Shift belay up to enable leader to reach summit.

10. 33m 14 - Up obvious crack to tree belay.

11. 6m 12 - Over overhanging rock to summit.

Another 9 pitches of adventure climbing.

Start: As per "DI", walk another 20m further Right along the terraced ledge from DI (up over & around a bulge), near a unique four cave, clover-like formation in the rock. Initialed "DII".

★ Deception II 15 - Deception II start

★ Deception II 15 - Deception II start

(This is Rick's original route description - the grades have been converted to the Ewbank System & pitch lengths to metres. The hemp rope they used, was 120' [36m] & 1.5" in diameter. This precluded longer pitch lengths. With modern, thinner, kernmantle ropes & good runner management, you can certainly run pitches together, thus shortening ascent times. Notes re "tree belay" & "peg belay" should be allowed for: trees may have vanished in the 51yrs since first ascent & new ones appeared.)

1. 18m 12 - Over roof of cave & up wall above, through scunge, trending left to base of crack in corner. Tree belay.

2. 18m 14 - Climb crack by jambing & bridging, cracker runner. Peg (gear) belay at base of pinnacle. (From this belay, you can look down Left onto P1&2 of DI)

3. 33m 13 - Bridge up between wall & pinnacle. Up through shallow cave & over small overhang, then traverse right over slab & up to tree belay on verandah.

4. 18m 12 - Cross verandah trending right to cave.

5. 27m 14 - Out of cave & jamb up crack, passing strenuous overhang. Block belay.

6. 36m 15 - Traverse down to ledge, climb straight up corner on thin holds, using finger jambs & laybacks. Move up left past pinnacle & continue up wall to verandah.

7. 33m 13 - Scramble across verandah to tree belay at base of steep buttress, just right of steep V-shaped corner. [NB: Blackened tree stump is still there.] Up blocks left, onto slab, follow weakness trending slightly left to small ledge & tree belay (gear behind).

★ Deception II 15 - Deception Link-up, climber on p7-4

8 33m 14 - Out Right from belay, follow arete up, a but run-out in places, mantle onto ledge & belay in corner.

9 12m 12 - Up groove to summit.

(On the first ascent, Graham, who i spoke to in 2007, recalled having no gear or holds on pitch 8, he called out to Rick on belay. Rick jokingly said: "Oh just leap for the tree", which Graham did, much to Rick's horror.)

Right of Boiled. Left facing corner & cave. Straight up the corner on thin holds. Easier once cave is reached, bridge out of this (no gear) to top.

Left side of the rock (left of the Fried corner). Up the obvious crack, then out left onto rib & up this to top. Nice adventurous climbing in an exposed position.

Start at the big "P" on the back of Egg Rock. Good off-width training with large gear. Rap tree/bush on top.

On the RHS of the North facing side. Up the crack & weakness on small but good jugs. Pleasant climbing.

1. 18 35m - Up the prominent corner with sparse gear. Belay on ridge. The next 2 pitches go up The Tiger Face Annex.

Up between the two buttresses, the obvious jam line. A somewhat mank affair - needs cleaning up to be enjoyable.

The crack up the middle of the main buttress - very enjoyable climbing on good gear.

1. 10 36m - up corner into body jam crack, awkward, then up rib to good ledge.

2. 3 91m - wander aimlessly to the top. Difficult if done while screwing ears or eating lunch.

Overhanging crack Corner opposite Egg Rock. Scramble down the gully behind Egg Rock. A fierce problem, 80° overhanging corner. Top roped by Rick, as a joke. Back then, grade 19 didn't exist.

R.h. end of buttress: jam line up through the overhang & up to a ledge, then classic crack corner to finish. A good exercise in arm-bar jambing. Big gear for the off-width.

A thin crackline up through a small cave. Up in the corner, delicate to shelf, up to the small cave, then out left & thin wall to finish.

9 pitches of adventure climbing. The best of the three Deception routes - it was Rick's choice of the three Deception routes & he climbed it many times.

Start as per Deception II. Up to & including pitch 7; belay on the small ledge & bush (gear on the Left, behind bush), in the middle of the concave face.

★ Deception II 15 - Deception Link-up, climber on p7-4

1. (pitch 8) 52m 14 - Traverse left, across the face, then diagonally up left, joining pitch 10 of Deception I in the crack; continue up this to alcove (& belay) on left. A long traverse pitch = manage your runners well.

★ Deception II 15 - Mark Gamble on traverse across to DI

★ Deception II 15 - Deception Link-up route, Mark Gamble on p9-1

1. (pitch 9) 12m 12 - Top out at your pleasure.

The thin crack in a small alcove, about 20m left of Skylark. Up the crack on small gear & inventive moves to the overhanging tree.

Start: beneath cave.

RURP November 1969

Start: Below cave.

RURP November 1969

The first crack at the left end of the cliff. Up crack, then up the face on the right, past the bulge to tree belay.

Phaedra is an historical and adventurous climb, first envisioned by Rick White in 1969.

To gain access, proceed up the hiker's track, past Egg Rock, to a stand of Shea-oak, just below the Central Knoll:

East Face - Phaedra access topo

Start below the obvious rooflet halfway up the wall. Either belay on the ground or off a single ring on the ledge 10m off the ground.

★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - Phaedra - 1st belay

Cameron Fairbain,Simon Vos on ★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - Phaedra

1)45m 19 - Start up the slab past a peg, angling towards the finger crack, continue up this, heading towards the hanging flake on spaced but good gear. Pull over the flake up to a belay at a sloping ledge below the rooflet.

2)15m 20 - Clip the SS carrot (hard to spot) above the belay left of 3 rusty carrots. From the belay traverse left and up the shallow groove to the left side of the overhang. Traverse right under the roof past gear and 2 pitons. Pull through the roof, to the hanging belay at 2xRBs directly above.

★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - pitons under overlap

3)20m 19 - Proceed up the corner, to a crack and up to the base of the headwall for a hanging trad anchor. Below the bolt ladder.

4)35m 21 M1 - Climb up the old bolt ladder (4x) on the headwall to gain the slab (20/21) above past shallow gear to follow 3 carrot bolts (left trending) on the slab in a breath-taking position to the top & 2xRB belay in alcove on left.

Gear: small to medium cams, lots of wires, plates and a skyhook.

Rick & Paul pegged their way up p1 in 1969.

Rick White, Jeff Morgan & Ron Collett freed p1 (18 by their standards) & aided the whole route in October 1971.

Paul Hoskins & Joe Lynch freed p2 in 1983 (they would have freed p3, but Joe forgot his shoes.)

Fred From & Chris Frost freed p3 in 1983.

Jon Pearson came close to freeing p4 in the late 80s, and Glen Foley almost freed it in 2007.

Thin crack, 2m r. of Skylark. Very thin crack, easier than it looks.

The first arete encountered, about 2m R. of High Strake.

A rewarding climb with plenty of exposure, difficulty, good protection (p1 aside) and varying technical climbing.

Start: In the left corner of the huge arch/cave. P3 traverses a largish pillar and P5 follows a large RH dihedral (corner).

1. 24m 18R - Up the LH corner of the cave to a ledge (crux protected by a piton), then out L at 10m along a ledge, on thin holds and scant gear (decking-out territory) to good gear and up to belay.

   Marty Bear on ★★ Beau Brummel 20 - Beau Brummel

2. 30m 17 - Up, Right trending across sheer wall through 2 caves, out Left from 2nd cave and up overhanging groove to stance on side of buttress.

3. 12m 8 - Up and traverse across buttress to base of corner.

4. 33m 14 - Up corner, trending slightly Right, to a good ledge.

5. 18m 20 - Up steep overhanging corner on the Right. Hard moves follow (crux) to a small stance at start of obvious traverse.

   Dave Moss on ★★ Beau Brummel 20 - Dave Moss at crux of Beau Brummel

6. 42m 17 - Traverse right, then up rib, followed by a thin wall to welcome exit gully.

7. 15m 2 - Up the gully/groove to the top.

History: Ps 1-4: Rick White & Paul Caffyn 6.7.68 (alternate leads).

Ps 4-7 Rick White & Paul Caffyn 31.8.68 (again, alternate leads, after traversing in left from Deception I to the start of p4).

The whole route was lead ground up by Rick & Ted Cais 8.2.69 with Ted having to aid a move or two at the crux.

FFA: ‘Hot’ Henry Barber & Rick White 3.1975

Historical note: Rick told me in 2003, that whilst it was originally graded at 19, it really should be a 20.

Start below cave – the RH dot in the alcove below the FH.

Up on good flakes & gear to the pillar, up to the FH, then bold moves above the FH (no more gear) thru the overhang & into the cave. Belay chains on left.

One of Australia’s classic climbs, but only for the chosen few.

1. 27m 17 - Start below cave – the RH dot in the alcove below the FH. Up on good flakes & gear to the pillar, then bold moves above the FH (no more gear) thru the overhang & into the cave. Belay chains on left.

2. 24m 24 - Start in L facing corner, then up R onto sloping ledge 12m up (gear), then out L over bulge (more gear), then up - follow the under-clinging flake out L to trad belay.

3. 27m 22 - Continue up manky crack to top.

Manky corner, up the slope on the far left, up to Ronin Wall ledge.

From RURP September 1971: "The East Face of Maroon, a perfect line where the light and dark rock meet."

1. 30m 17 Zigzag up easy blocks, etc., to a small corner niche. Up steep wall to a foothold belay ledge.

2. 30m 18 Up to overhang, left and up, then back right and up to a ledge with a small bush, up another 7-8m to a slightly bigger ledge.

3. 24m 10/M5 Free 6m, then follow nebulous crackline to a bivy under the headwall.

4. 24m M7 Follow the line to a sloping shelf, hanging belay.

5. 12m 10 Up with a peg for aid in lose blocks. Belay at foot of corner.

6. 30m 14/M3 Up corner to top of a pedestal. Aids in poor, rotten, crack, free to top, block belay.

"Gear: rurps, skyhooks, bathhooks, microhexes, and blades up to 1.5 angle (plenty of knives + a few crackers)."

On the East face down and right of the two rings at the Phaedra start. This is also where the slightly lighter rock subtly meets the darker rock. The line also leads up to left edge of bushy ledge about halfway up the face (a good landmark). Scramble up ledges to get to a belay spot below this weakness.

1. 50m (21) Originally climbed as two 25m pitches, but for full value one long pitch is the go. Traverse right past large blocks to short flared corner. Up this and the obvious line of weakness above. Carefully follow path of least resistance and more gearistence. A tad runout in spots and two ropes required to reduce drag this pitch requires a crafty and confident leader. Belay at left edge of top of bushy ledge. Also the scene of a 50m fall by John Hattink running it out to the top ledge only to have two foot holds blow!

2. 40m (28) A stunning pitch! Head up the obvious corner past a few old pegs and the small rooflet. Then up subtle cracked line toward the looming headwall. This pitch provides good though not excessive options for protection and progressively gets harder and steeper. A very aesthetic line splits the top golden headwall in the steepest and cleanest position on the face. The position in the middle of the face with plenty of exposure, a steady breeze, very tenuous moves and spaced gear make it a very memorable lead. There are also three BR's on this pitch leading up to the headwall (hangers required). The free ascent was led placing the gear ground up and it is graded for a lead in this style. Belay at the obvious stance with a peg and #0, #0.5 #1 cams needed.

3. 25m (20) Head a little right and up large corner past bushes to the top of huge pedestal. Some softer rock and awkward sections make it a slow but straight-forward lead. Belay at huge blocks about 10m back from the top cliff edge.

Protection: Full rack, cams up to 3 - 3.5 Description: 210 metres, grade 16, fun climbing - all trad.

To find the start: up the hiker's track, about a 30min hike, to the first orange triangles below "Echo Point", rock scramble up the boulders to the lookout (rocky outcrop above Viewpoint Buttress), from the lookout, walk up about 30-40m above, to another orange triangle on a rock:

East Face - East Face - short cut

★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - short-cut in to Ruby

turn Right here & follow the track a couple of hundred meters past the "Jezebel" cracked pillar into the gully to where the track turns right & starts to slope downhill. When you arrive in the steep gully behind Egg Rock, cross the gully & climb the rock face opposite Egg Rock & bush-bash up left towards an arched cave in the main wall. Belay from this bent tree directly below the center point on the arch.

★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - ROI belay tree

1. (45m 14) Take the easy ramp up right into the alcove & follow the chimney thru to 2nd chimney & corner, up obvious crack (8-10m), or alternately, step out right onto face around pillar & up to large belay ledge.

2. (45m 13) A zigzaggy pitch: tough moves straight up, mount the ledge, then walk up the track, right, for about 10m & climb the left leaning ramp (grade 2-3), keep trending left, up the slope, to a pillar & prominent L-facing corner. Belay at the piton below the corner (or better, below the pillar where you are sheltered from possible rockfall.)

3. (45m 16) Up face for 4-5m to a small root (first gear), passing a small cave & follow the line of weakness up past a small gnarly pine tree on the face. Up to ledge and into the prominent left facing corner, up corner 2-3m & step out right onto face & arete. From here up another 10m to belay ledge. Another piton here marks the belay for pitch 4.

4. (28m 13) Choose your own adventure up any line you choose to the trees above & belay on ledge above

5. (45m 14) Up the scooped alcove either way, ending up in the prominent crack on the RHS & topping out via this. (NOTE: a nice finish to this route is to link the last 2 pitches using a 70m rope.)

When exiting the mountain, track Right across the caldera as shown here to avoid the nasty 20m cliff at the gully:

★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - ROI exit route

Look for a big forked gum tree, this will bring you to an easy (4-5m) down-climb.

Protection: Full rack, cams up to 3 - 3.5 Description: 210 metres, grade 16, fun climbing - all trad.

To find the start: up the hiker's track, about a 30min hike, to the first orange triangles below "Echo Point", rock scramble up the boulders to the lookout (rocky outcrop above Viewpoint Buttress), from the lookout, walk up about 30-40m above, to another orange triangle on a rock:

East Face - East Face - short cut

★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - short-cut in to Ruby

turn Right here & follow the track a couple of hundred meters past the "Jezebel" cracked pillar into the gully to where the track turns right & starts to slope downhill. When you arrive in the steep gully behind Egg Rock, cross the gully & climb the rock face opposite Egg Rock & bush-bash up left towards an arched cave in the main wall. Belay from this bent tree directly below the center point on the arch.

★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - ROI belay tree

1. (45m 14) Take the easy ramp up right into the alcove & follow the chimney thru to 2nd chimney & corner, up obvious crack (8-10m), or alternately, step out right onto face around pillar & up to large belay ledge.

2. (45m 13) A zigzaggy pitch: tough moves straight up, mount the ledge, then walk up the track, right, for about 10m & climb the left leaning ramp (grade 2-3), keep trending left, up the slope, to a pillar & prominent L-facing corner. Belay at the piton below the corner (or better, below the pillar where you are sheltered from possible rockfall.)

3. (45m 16) Up face for 4-5m to a small root (first gear), passing a small cave & follow the line of weakness up past a small gnarly pine tree on the face. Up to ledge and into the prominent left facing corner, up corner 2-3m & step out right onto face & arete. From here up another 10m to belay ledge. Another piton here marks the belay for pitch 4.

4. (28m 13) Choose your own adventure up any line you choose to the trees above & belay on ledge above

5. (45m 14) Up the scooped alcove either way, ending up in the prominent crack on the RHS & topping out via this. (NOTE: a nice finish to this route is to link the last 2 pitches using a 70m rope.)

When exiting the mountain, track Right across the caldera as shown here to avoid the nasty 20m cliff at the gully:

★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - ROI exit route

Look for a big forked gum tree, this will bring you to an easy (4-5m) down-climb.

Start: At a block (shown on topo), below a crackline on a clean face, far LHS of Tiger Face, just Right of The N.E. Buttress.

Up the crack-line, to the overhang, & up through this.

30m or so from the lh side: down the slope till you arrive at the prominent rib:

1. 12m 18 - Climb using the inside corner to a belay point (belay tree now gone, almost 50yrs on).

2. 31m 18 - Manky rock, then easy climbing to top.

3. 24m - easy climbing/scrambling to safe walk-off.

(Original RURP description)

NB: This route was done back in the day when 40m ropes were the only ones available. One could, in theory, run the whole lot together with smart management of one's runners.

This route is actually a condensation of pitches from separate routes by Rick & Rob. Pitch 1 is Rick's Yoni, after this, it morphs into Rob's Jug City and_?

5 pitches of (in reality) mundane climbing in a rather spectacular position.

1. 17m 15 - Off the flat rock (the "coffee table"), up the obvious crack & weakness left, to to ledge & trad belay.

2. 35m 17 - From the belay, you should be able to spot a small overhang with a semicircular waterstain beneath. The route passes right of this, then angle left towards a large belay ledge & DBB.

3. 42m 18 - A poorly protected, airy pitch, that ends in a hanging belay. Traverse Right, along the belay ledge a few metres, then angle up Right to join an obvious line of weakness. Continue up & over a slight bulge, trending Right to a hanging belay (nest of wires), at a small ledge. (NB: do not be tempted to head left into the big corner & off-width!)

4. 25m 17 - From the hanging belay, traverse Right a few metres, then angle up towards the prominent rock horn. Mantle onto the horn & avoid the manky vegetated groove by a juggy mantle onto the ledge on the Left. Continue trending up Right, to belay in a wide groove between a tree (?) & the wall.

5. 12m 10 - Exit over easy bulges until safe ground is reached.

Descent options:

A) Walk off from here: follow the watercourse up to the Saddle, then the hiker's track back down.

B) Rap back down.

Waterfall Wall - Waterfall Wall - abseil points

Traverse carefully (harness & long sling on), in Left over a large boulder to the carrot bolt on top. Clipping into this (bolt plate), traverse across the gap to the DBB rap station. Next DBB is about 45-50m on the face Left. Next DBB is about 30m on the large belay ledge. From here about 35-40m to the ground. (NB: the topo does NOT show the second rap point as it is not on the route.)

Quoted from RURP:

1. "Free up 6m, then peg up corner for 9m, move Right and up to another ledge.

2. "Continue up line to another ledge.

3. "Finish up Left line - free the last 12m.

"Good mixed climbing up a fine line."

RURP July/August 1972

(Ron cannot recall the details of this route, but I would suggest that it is Right of the cave.)

"The best, first, & hardest route here. Three hard pitches up this magnificent corner." (Rick's original entry for RURP magazine September 1972.)

The 2nd prominent Right facing corner, Left of SHB. Straight up the manky chimney/corner passing an overhanging block at 40-50m.

Has the distinction of being the very first route established at Maggie's Farm.

Inside the "Devil's Hole" there are 3 body cracks/chimneys. These 3 were soloed by Rick on their first visit. The initials "DH" are still visible inside the shaft.

Varied climbing up a leg crack. A bit harder & thrutchier than the other DH routes.

A classic body chimney. The obvious body chimney in the middle of Baby Buttress.

Up body crack, then take the left line at the top (another chimney). A good technique builder: strenuous, but secure.

Pleasant climbing up an easy crack. Take the central "hole".

Marked "DB" - Right of Delilah. A body chimney.

Squirm up the body chimney with good, clean body jambing technique. A chockstone a little over halfway offers the only protection.

Easy climbing up the crack on the Right, exiting out through the hole.

Has the distinction of being Australia's first 22.

Scramble/climb up the easy start next to ROI & onto the belay ledge. Starting in RH corner, trending left up weakness, then up, slightly right trending, into crack corner & up this to flaring off-width at top. Aid your way out to lip. then up over this to a good belay stance above.

Be wary of the original button bolts put in by Rick 47yrs ago; these are only 1" deep or so & hand-drilled.

Very rarely climbed, the route is rather chossy & vegetated.

(Estimates of freeing the downward flaring crack at the top start at around grade 27-28.)

An arm jamb, crack corner. A nice exercise in arm jambing.