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The Eastern Seaboard

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Description

Isolated wall high up on the Eastern face. Routes are listed from South to North.

Access issues inherited from Mt Ninderry

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. Please approach via the land atop Ocean Vista Drive which is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park Vehicles with 4 wheels on the road and not blocking the fire trail to allow access for emergency vehicles if required. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular,

  • use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels.
  • Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS.
  • All dogs at the location must be on leash at all times.
  • Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!).

This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Approach

Southern and access gully routes are best accessed by rapping in from the summit, otherwise a dangerous scramble from below. The steep wall is accessed either by rapping in from the access gully or climb Just Add Water in Octopuses Garden.

Descent notes

The rap point can be found at the southern corner of the access gully.

Ethic inherited from Mt Ninderry

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

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Routes

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Grade Route

The route to the left of Boaty McBoatface, shared anchor with Boaty. Hangers are easily seen near the top but extend to approx 15 below the Boaty DBB station where another DBB exists in good condition to belay from. Can also be used as a descent route (another 20m or so) to the ledge just above the start of pitch two for Just Add Water from Octopuses Garden. If rapping down this way be aware the pull down runs the risk of snagging your rope in trees halfway down and another rap from a tree or a longish walk around is still needed to get back to Octopuses Garden if your gear is there.

Proud arete with some refreshing exposure. From rings at the southern edge of the access gully, head up the slab to a ledge where the arete starts. Climb the overhanging (left) side of the arete on great holds until you run out of arete and mantle to top out finish.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 18 Jul 2018

Start in the middle of the south wall of the gully. Bouldery start into slabby fun before heading up the right side of the arete. Tops out to the same rings as Boaty McBoatface.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 9 Sep 2018

Start up the black streak to the right of I'm an anemone, at the bottom of the corner rap from the summit. Slabby climbing to it's own set of chains.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 9 Sep 2018

Top route in the access gully.

FFA: Kenny Walker, May 2016

Lower steep route in the access gully. Belay bolt on ledge.

FFA: Kenny Walker, May 2016

The airy scramble that will get you to the DBB at the base of Boaty McBoatface if you've just climbed Just Add Water or are at the overhung climbs with fixed ropes. Nuts etc optional as if you climb it right the rope and trees will protect any unexpected falls. Though you might like to sling the trees for comfort, but please minimise damage to them. This is the better option than the right hand variant as there's less/zero chance of hailing rocks onto your belayer, and you wind up at the DBB for Boaty.

The right hand variant, going straight up. This is far more risky as a scramble and just generally a less than ideal way to get up to the upper section of the crag, as there's a lot of loose gravel and rock that you can and likely will kick down towards your belayer. They can either belay from anchors at top of Just Add Water, or from in the boulders underneath the overhang. At the top of the gully you'll find the belay bolt for the Mariana Trench at about chest height. Belaying from here is not ideal, a better option is to use a draw/biner to help redirect the rope and keep it up and away from the loose rock, so that you can belay from tree or gear to the left near base of Sea Monkey's Uncle.

The flake feature on the the left hand end of the steep wall. Fun and sustained climbing.

FFA: Bernie Walsh, 5 Jun 2016

Will be hard! Alex has done all the moves so it goes. Give it a crack!

Takes the hard R to L undercling to headwall. Looks classic and hard!

Diagonal crack to arete. Hard start requiring an attentive belay past the first 3 bolts, leading to the steep arete.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Jun 2016

R end of main wall. Semi-hanging belay on ledge. Punchy boulder problem start. Tricky all the way to the chains.

Set: Kenny Walker

FFA: Kenny Walker, Nov 2016

Short prominent arete R end of the wall. Clip the low first bolt then start R in the corner. Explosive movements with long tosses and stiff climbing.

FFA: kenny

FA: kenny, Aug 2020

Below Seaman Staines in little cave, thread the feature then clip one fh before squirming out to the anchors. Can rap in or easy scramble down/out to left.

A mini adventure route up the corner on the far right of the terrace. Easiest to access by fixing a line to the right end of the fixed rope and lowering to an anchor on the edge. Climbing gingerly right below the loose stuff and up the wall, following the corner and then the arete.

FFA: Bernie Walsh & Susy G, 9 Jul 2017

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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