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The Eastern Seaboard

13

Seasonality

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Description

Isolated wall high up on the Eastern face. Routes are listed from South to North.

Access issues inherited from Mt Ninderry

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. Please approach via the land atop Ocean Vista Drive which is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park up on the grass verge on the mountain side of the road. Spread cars out as much as possible. Better still, park 50m back up the street on the shoulder adjacent the steep embankment. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular, use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels. Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS. Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!). This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Approach

Southern and access gully routes are best accessed by rapping in from the summit, otherwise a dangerous scramble from below. The steep wall is accessed either by rapping in from the access gully or climb Just Add Water in Octopuses Garden.

Descent notes

The rap point can be found at the southern corner of the access gully.

Ethic inherited from Mt Ninderry

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Proud arete with some refreshing exposure. From rings at the southern edge of the access gully, head up the slab to a ledge where the arete starts. Climb the overhanging (left) side of the arete on great holds until you run out of arete and mantle to top out finish.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 18 Jul 2018

Start in the middle of the south wall of the gully. Bouldery start into slabby fun before heading up the right side of the arete. Tops out to the same rings as Boaty McBoatface.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 9 Sep 2018

Start up the black streak to the right of I'm an anemone, at the bottom of the corner rap from the summit. Slabby climbing to it's own set of chains.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 9 Sep 2018

Top route in the access gully.

FFA: Kenny Walker, May 2016

Lower steep route in the access gully. Belay bolt on ledge.

FFA: Kenny Walker, May 2016

The flake feature on the the left hand end of the steep wall. Fun and sustained climbing.

FFA: Bernie Walsh, 5 Jun 2016

Will be hard! Alex has done all the moves so it goes. Give it a crack!

Closed project at this point in time. Takes the hard R to L undercling to headwall.

Diagonal crack to arete. Hard start requiring an attentive belay past the first 3 bolts, leading to the steep arete.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Jun 2016

R end of main wall. Semi-hanging belay on ledge. Punchy boulder problem start. Tricky all the way to the chains.

Set by Kenny Walker

FFA: Kenny Walker, Nov 2016

Short prominent arete R end of the wall. Clip the low first bolt then start R in the corner. Explosive movements with long tosses and stiff climbing.

FFA:

FA: , Aug 2020

A mini adventure route up the corner on the far right of the terrace. Easiest to access by fixing a line to the right end of the fixed rope and lowering to an anchor on the edge. Climbing gingerly right below the loose stuff and up the wall, following the corner and then the arete.

FFA: Bernie Walsh & Susy G, 9 Jul 2017

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