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Octopuses Garden

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Description

Shorter routes than other sectors, but a few absolute corkers. Also has a great trad wall (not yet in guide) for those fond of wiggly shit. This juggy terrain may see you pumped.

Access issues inherited from Mt Ninderry

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. Please approach via the land atop Ocean Vista Drive which is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park up on the grass verge on the mountain side of the road. Spread cars out as much as possible. Better still, park 50m back up the street on the shoulder adjacent the steep embankment. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular, use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels. Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS. Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!). This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Approach

Turn right 10m past the big boulder on the approach and walk around the eastern side of the mount for about 200m

Ethic inherited from Mt Ninderry

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

History

View historical timeline

Named after all the wait-a-while that the route developers encountered.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

At the far left hand side the wall as you first arrive at the crag, 10 m left of Yellow Submarine. Can be used to access the steep wall of The Eastern Seaboard, but not access gully routes.

Set by Glenn, 1 Sep 2017

FFA: Glenn & ross ferguson, 1 Sep 2017

Closed

Start: 2m left of Lava Tube under cave. Slab for first 2 bolts into cave and 3rd FH. Get all tangled up getting to the 4th FH and turn the lip. Continues straight up to chains. 7 FHs

Great featured climbing up the scoop, then leftwards to the last bolt and anchors. Mind the tree.

Set by Glenn, 1 Sep 2017

FFA: Glenn, 1 Sep 2017

Up left side of cave to shared anchors.

Scramble over loose cave floor to the middle left side of the cave. Straight up the vertical mid cave and into the ledge. From the ledge it's straight through the roof to the lip of the cave and out on to the head wall. Extra bolt on ledge if you want but adds drag, runners advised

FA: Neil Jenman, 16 Dec 2017

The centre line straight through the heart of the cave. Head up the vertical face at the middle back of cave and ascend to the back ledge of the cave. From the ledge take a leap of faith out on to the knobby protrusions then summon your polar bear strength to climb straight across the roof and over the lip to the head wall.

Set by Neil Jenman

FFA: Neil Jenman, 22 May 2018

FA: Neil Jenman, 22 May 2018

Straight through the guts of the cave on big "Ninderry-solid" features. Excellent moderate roof climbing, despite the dirty start up the ledges.

First 2 bolts of Water Line then bust out left and up punching thru a few cruxes. Most excellent.

FFA: ross ferguson, 14 Sep 2017

Fun, pumpy, punchy climbing on great rock up the short steep wall.

Last line before the wall rounds the bend. Quality micro-route. Easy start, hard boulder problem direct through the shield, pumpy little finish.

Set by & kenny walker

FFA: & kenny walker

Start off the terrace above the previous routes. Short and intense. Heel, toe, gut busting core. Turn the lip to the anchors (double bolts) however back cleaning required.

Set by

FFA: & kenny walker, 14 Aug 2017

The arete as the track rounds the bend. Gets a bit dirty up high

FFA: Glenn

FA: glen ferguson

Face right of arete. Shares last bolt and anchors with Bruce. Can also share 1st bolt with Bruce, but isn’t required. 5FHs, 6FHs if using Bruce’s first.

FFA: Glenn

FA: glen ferguson

Starts a few meters to the right of Bruce and Nemo. Stick clip the first bolt. A climb needing some thought.

Set by Glenn, Sarah Ross & Rohan McEvoy, 24 Nov 2018

FFA: Rohan McEvoy, Sarah Ross & Glenn, 24 Nov 2018

The following trad lines are found 30m up the hill on the cracked wall. One set of cams and two packs of wires is sufficient, all routes have shared bolted anchors.

Begin just right of and behind big tree. Bouldery climbing up steep leatherback wall on good gear. Good gear in roof crack then traverse right to join tuvula and finish up that.

FFA: ross ferguson, 2017

The obvious steep juggy crack, at break traverse left a move or two then up face with a committing move to chains.

FFA: ross ferguson, 2017

Same start as Tuvula but take the right hand crack.

FFA: glen ferguson, 2017

Undercut start then up the steep left leaning crack. Break directly up the gently overhung white streak. Super solid features with good gear, shares anchors with Guam.

FFA: ross ferguson, 2017

Thread the blob and load up the crack, then punch out and mantle into blankness joining into Pitcairn. Bold.

Start up black streak right of chimney, fiddly gear to flake followed by sustained face climbing to shared anchors with Kiribati.

FFA: ross ferguson, 2017

Cracked face near the right end of the buttress, climb this to a shallow corner and a thank god ledge. Thought provoking gear in the top.

FFA: ross ferguson, 2017

Located hidden up the gully just beyond the trad wall. This route and MbP both climb the slabby pillar and then the living-room sized boulder wedged between the walls. TU is the left route directly up the guts. A closed project for now.

FA:

Climb pillar with funky moves to gain boulder then traverse R. Bouldery, punchy moves up arete to top out. Single bolt lower-off however easier to back jump and clean.

Set by

FFA: & kenny

10min walk east of Sayonara Bitches along the cliff base, facing east. Stick clip first bolt. Start in centre left of cave and follow the obvious rib through the overhang onto the slightly hung headwall.

FFA: Michael Jansen, 21 Dec 2013

FFA: Brenton Owens, 21 Dec 2013

Start 2m right of BSB, Superman start into the roof following obvious line to headwall. Joining BSB at its 4th bolt.

FFA: Michael Jansen, 21 Dec 2013

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