Caves Area Mostly Sport climbing 46 routes in sector

Left most end of the cave. Climbs well but there may still be some rubbish rock. Needs a good day of cleaning and sorting out of the clusterfuck of bolts.

Up the steepest part of the left side of the cave. Start on the chalked holds at the right end of the steep scoop. This route was born as a 26, then grew to 27, now probably 28 or harder after multiple breaks up high. You bolt choss that’s what you get. Could probably use a little glue and love if anyone is motivated.

Link up. Begin up Absinthe to the 4th bolt, then follow the steep underbelly right across SS and GASS to finish up Screaming Rage. If instead, at the end, you keep going R and finish up the corner feature (Quiet Rage), it's Getting Buck Right, at low-end 26.

Climb Absinthe to halfway then diagonal naturally right on blobs to join Struggle Snuggle. More pumpy and interesting than the direct and pushes the gnarly SS into the next grade.

Starts just right of Absinthe under the steep, chossy looking, open book feature. Fun steep jugging to about halfway, then a very hard section of bouldering leads to a superb pumper finish. Great climbing despite appearances.

Up QR for three bolts, then L through the steep bulge. After the boulder problem continue L a tad to join the top of SS. Either top out SS (rope twisting anchors) or use the right bolt and hand traverse right to SR anchors.

Climb QR then instead of heading right and up the corner, go straight up through the roof and overlap. Pumpy moves lead to a glorious throw to the top. A harder, better and more sustained finish to QR.

Starts under the overhanging bob in the middle of the cave. Juggy for the first 4 bolts. High clip in the roof and a great sequence of bouldering leading to the big flake. Bust your way right on jugs to a pumpy finish in the black crack/corner. High anchor over the top.

R of the steep manky crack. A couple of cruxes. The original line moves right and up thru a technical fingery crux and wild dyno (grade 23). Some climbers prefer to climb the juggy crack instead (22).

“Despite appearances all the holds are bomber... I challenge you to pull anything off!” - J. Make him a wager. Enjoyable climbing on big, nicely moulded holds.

Left hand finish to Birds of Prey. Spicy boulder problem in the sky, keep the bolts at your chest then clip anchors at your waist for full value. Pack your pads.

A very proud line with classy climbing that follows TSSS to the anchors, veers R, then straight up aiming for the beautiful orange headwall and arete at the very top of the cliffs. Veer R up the final arete, ignore the distracting bolts just to the left. A few things to note: 1. To climb with minimal drag backclean the first bolt, use extenders for last BR and anchors on TSSS (or clip the last bolt on Tim Burton Tunnel and backclean the TSSS anchor). 2. It’s not possible to lower to ground from final anchors using a 60m rope so clean this climb in two pitches or use a 70m rope. Climb named with respect for the peregrine falcons that nest close by, so as much as this is a great climb, it should only be climbed outside of the falcons nesting season.

Steep continuous jugging! Stickclip high first bolt in roof. Use long draws. Up past a couple of bolts then exposed traverse right under roof before heading up to the anchors on slab.

The continuation of Pneumotharax past 3 more bolts through orange bulge to anchors. You can also access this by climbing TT to its third last bolt and heading right into this climb at the ledge (rope probably runs better this way).

Climb Pneumothorax past its first two bolts, extending both. Then clip the RB of Tick Typhus, following its three dimensional tunnel until the angle eases. From here, step right to clip the anchors of Pneumothorax. Not an independent route, but quite enjoyable in its own right!

Starts up P for two bolts (use long slings), and climb straight up to U bolt (long sling again). Continue up 3D corner to small ledge above on the right. Make a move back left and tackle the steep black corner (avoid moving way out right at last bolt into no mans land) to chains over the lip.

Links the beginning of Vertigo into last bolt of Pneumothorax. Sling a protrusion on the traverse. Not an integral route in it's own right but a linkup of the easiest sections of both routes.

The super steep arching corner that travels under Vertigo's crux and finishes at Left hands anchor. Featuring multiple cruxs'and mind bending positions this climb has it all. Starting in the overhang left of Vertigo's first bolt, overcome the horizontal roof and up the groove to tackle the blank V corner. Continue along the arch with plenty of gear till arriving at difficult moves transitioning from 40 degree overhang to 20 degree slab and through to anchor. Set up a top belay and second to clean. Take two racks of cams, set of wires, and lots of extenders. 28m free hanging abseil to ground.

Extend almost every draw to make the rope run well on this wild adventurous traverse. Start up the first four U bolts of What the left hand don't know but instead of heading straight up wind your way up the line of fixed hangers out left through steepness and exposure around lip of giant roof finishing at Vertigo's anchor. Attentive rope management required. Best to have second to top rope to clean.

3m L of NA. Up runout, easy jugs for three ringbolts (long slings). Pull L into steep runnel and thug up to the base of 50 degree overhung headwall (grade 18 to here). The permadraw hanging over the lip points the way. A hard and direct boulder problem to the blind (and tiny) hold over the lip. Difficult moves are followed by a mantle onto the lip hold. A great sequence of bouldering in a super exposed position, only slightly spoilt by the fact that there’s tempting easy ground off L (not in). Hard to grade. 18 V7? Save your rope and clean from the permadraw and leaver-biner. Rebolted December 2013.

Easy to find; it’s the biggest roof on the mountain. Much less intimidating than it looks from below. Start 6m L of Dontworry.com at the tree. Prepare yourself for some adventure-sport climbing! Take the time to get the rigging right for this one or you won’t be able to clip the anchor due to drag. Doable with a single rope if you use LOTS of long slings. Easy ramble to the roof. Punch the juggy roof, turn the lip and if you’ve done everything right you’ll be able to pull rope for the anchor clip Impossible to clean from the anchor, so back-jump the roof and lower-off. Rebolted Dec 2013.

Start three metres left of Don't Worry.com at the arete. Follow bolts through sea of sculpted holds heading for ring bolted anchor in roof. A great new warmup for this sector.

Climb Read between the lines placing long runner on anchor. Lean out and clip first bolt in roof before commiting to bouldery horizontal climbing to out of sight second bolt over lip. Quest straight up the corner above on gnarly finger locks and levitation to a stance and a third bolt before heading to Ninderry Airs anchor.

Climb Read between the lines placing long runner on anchor. Lean out and clip first bolt in roof before commiting to bouldery horizontal climbing to out of sight second bolt over lip. Clip this from solid position and venture out with some airy jugging to join Ninderry Air at it's last bolt finishing up this. Solid climbing through the roof with some great movement on good holds. Varient ending to Above Board.

Slab to headwall to exposed step-around to techy corner. A bit of everything! If you're up for the adventure it's not to be missed. Top bolt very loose on anchors. Hand tighten and put your draws next to the bottom bolt until someone can come with a spanner (loctite or lock washer please).

Starts on higher terrace just right of Dontworry.com. Slab past three bolts under roof. Monkey out and through on huge holds. Take the left side of the arête past a harder move, then slab headwall.

Fun steep monkeying on amazingly solid funk! Committing and rewarding. Start on chossy shelf a metre to the left of TOAGSW on U bolts. Move left a move at fourth bolt, and make sure you don't miss the fifth bolt (use a long quickdraw), which is hiding above one of the rooflets.

Shares first 3 bolts of Korova then up the bulging face right of the corner past another 4 bolts. Left of the block at the top, compressing past the final bolt, to the anchors of Toils.

Great limestone-esque climbing up face and corner L of flying buttress. Good route but take a rappel device for the last climber as the anchors are mallions that twist the rope so a rappel is advised. Will be fixed in due course.

...because you know i will find you. Start up the open corner left of Palsy stepping left onto the face at the forth bolt. Thought provoking moves deliver you to crux boulder problem through small roof bulge before finishing up offwidth crack to anchor in black rock.

Easy past a few bolts, then hard resistance climbing with minging crimps and wide spans. At the 5th bolt move naturally R into Nitro for a few moves then back L to the 6th. The route sticks to the face so the back wall is off limits until you're at the anchors.

Really cool low dyno (unless you're Long-arms Schimke), then a baffling upper crux which can be solved with some knee-trickery. Hard to grade as the sequence is short, but hard/bizarre. It goes without saying the chalked holds out right on Harvey Wallbanger are not in. 7 ringbolts to anchors. Rebolted December 2013.

Up Semtex till 5th cruxing left to the carrot then clipping one FH on nitro and lean into sat night crux using the matchbox hold. Finish straight up black wall to YCOH anchors. Excellent

Easy to begin then steep white wall to black headwall. Traverse L at the obvious slopey break, then up past last bolt to enjoy engaging moves to chains.

R side of Nitro Wall. Begin under bulge. Use some longer runners in first half. Above 5th bolt climb direct up cracked face and avoid the choosy scramble up the pillar out L (subtract a grade this way). Keeps punching all the way to the chains!

These 2 routes can be found in a completely seperate area from the previous routes... On an isolated pillar where the track rounds the southern point of Ninderry between Ocean Vista and The Caves. Look for the tiny cave with bolts above it. Hard bouldery start followed by a few intersting sections. Use long runner on 3rd. Air-y climbing up arete to chains out L.

Variant finish to DWA. At the roof hand traverse R along the lip then crank for the top. Powerful moves and a tricky mantle. Wildly exposed fun climbing which deserves to be more popular.