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Description

Winter sports virtually all-day shade while in summer some routes see afternoon sun. Due to the complex architecture, a diverse style of routes can be found, though steep is generally the rule. Peregrines stifle climbing and development here between July and Dec. Hungry mozzies also like to hang around depending on conditions so bring some spray! Routes read L to R.

Access issues inherited from Mt Ninderry

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. Please approach via the land atop Ocean Vista Drive which is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park up on the grass verge on the mountain side of the road. Spread cars out as much as possible. Better still, park 50m back up the street on the shoulder adjacent the steep embankment. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular, use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels. Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS. Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!). This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Approach

Ten minute walk from the Ocean Vista Wall around the SW side of the mountain.

Ethic inherited from Mt Ninderry

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Small wall to a burly little roof and mantle. Quite fun as a warm up, and an enjoyable miniature piece of climbing. 4 FHs to chains

FFA: Jerome Gobel

Runout after second bolt, but still quite fun. Shares anchors and last bolt with Have another Home Brew

FFA: Jeff MC

Left most end of the cave. Climbs well but there may still be some rubbish rock. Needs a good day of cleaning and sorting out of the clusterfuck of bolts.

FFA: Glen Foley, 2011

Up the steepest part of the left side of the cave. Start on the chalked holds at the right end of the steep scoop. This route was born as a 26, then grew to 27, now probably 28 or harder after multiple breaks up high. You bolt choss that’s what you get. Could probably use a little glue and love if anyone is motivated.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Oct 2011

Link up. Begin up Absinthe to the 4th bolt, then follow the steep underbelly right across SS and GASS to finish up Screaming Rage. If instead, at the end, you keep going R and finish up the corner feature (Quiet Rage), it's Getting Buck Right, at low-end 26.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 16 Mar 2014

Climb Absinthe to halfway then diagonal naturally right on blobs to join Struggle Snuggle. More pumpy and interesting than the direct and pushes the gnarly SS into the next grade.

FA: , Aug 2020

Starts just right of Absinthe under the steep, chossy looking, open book feature. Fun steep jugging to about halfway, then a very hard section of bouldering leads to a superb pumper finish. Great climbing despite appearances.

FFA: Nate Foster, 2011

Up QR for three bolts, then L through the steep bulge. After the boulder problem continue L a tad to join the top of SS. Either top out SS (rope twisting anchors) or use the right bolt and hand traverse right to SR anchors.

FFA: Glen Foley, 2011

Climb QR then instead of heading right and up the corner, go straight up through the roof and overlap. Pumpy moves lead to a glorious throw to the top. A harder, better and more sustained finish to QR.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 8 Feb 2014

Starts under the overhanging bob in the middle of the cave. Juggy for the first 4 bolts. High clip in the roof and a great sequence of bouldering leading to the big flake. Bust your way right on jugs to a pumpy finish in the black crack/corner. High anchor over the top.

Set: Glen Foley, 2011

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 26 Jan 2014

R hand route in cave (L of manky crack). Very poor rock

FFA: Daniel Farquhar, 2011

R of the steep manky crack. A couple of cruxes. The original line moves right and up thru a technical fingery crux and wild dyno (grade 23). Some climbers prefer to climb the juggy crack instead (22).

FFA: Jerome, Aug 2011

“Despite appearances all the holds are bomber... I challenge you to pull anything off!” - J. Make him a wager. Enjoyable climbing on big, nicely moulded holds.

FFA: Jerome, Jul 2011

Left hand finish to Birds of Prey. Spicy boulder problem in the sky, keep the bolts at your chest then clip anchors at your waist for full value. Pack your pads.

FFA: Cal

A very proud line with classy climbing that follows TSSS to the anchors, veers R, then straight up aiming for the beautiful orange headwall and arete at the very top of the cliffs. Veer R up the final arete, ignore the distracting bolts just to the left. A few things to note: 1. To climb with minimal drag backclean the first bolt, use extenders for last BR and anchors on TSSS (or clip the last bolt on Tim Burton Tunnel and backclean the TSSS anchor). 2. It’s not possible to lower to ground from final anchors using a 60m rope so clean this climb in two pitches or use a 70m rope. Climb named with respect for the peregrine falcons that nest close by, so as much as this is a great climb, it should only be climbed outside of the falcons nesting season.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, Mar 2012

FFA: Alex Coombes, 2010

Steep continuous jugging! Stickclip high first bolt in roof. Use long draws. Up past a couple of bolts then exposed traverse right under roof before heading up to the anchors on slab.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, Mar 2012

The continuation of Pneumotharax past 3 more bolts through orange bulge to anchors. You can also access this by climbing TT to its third last bolt and heading right into this climb at the ledge (rope probably runs better this way).

FFA: Jerome Gobel, Jul 2013

Climb Pneumothorax past its first two bolts, extending both. Then clip the RB of Tick Typhus, following its three dimensional tunnel until the angle eases. From here, step right to clip the anchors of Pneumothorax. Not an independent route, but quite enjoyable in its own right!

FFA: Matt Schimke, 10 Nov 2019

Starts up P for two bolts (use long slings), and climb straight up to U bolt (long sling again). Continue up 3D corner to small ledge above on the right. Make a move back left and tackle the steep black corner (avoid moving way out right at last bolt into no mans land) to chains over the lip.

FA: Matt Schimke, 5 Aug 2014

Links the beginning of Vertigo into last bolt of Pneumothorax. Sling a protrusion on the traverse. Not an integral route in it's own right but a linkup of the easiest sections of both routes.

FA: Patrick Simon & Fraser Pocknee, 14 Jun 2014

Starts 3m R of Pneumothorax in hollowed out cave.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, Mar 2012

The super steep arching corner that travels under Vertigo's crux and finishes at Left hands anchor. Featuring multiple cruxs'and mind bending positions this climb has it all. Starting in the overhang left of Vertigo's first bolt, overcome the horizontal roof and up the groove to tackle the blank V corner. Continue along the arch with plenty of gear till arriving at difficult moves transitioning from 40 degree overhang to 20 degree slab and through to anchor. Set up a top belay and second to clean. Take two racks of cams, set of wires, and lots of extenders. 28m free hanging abseil to ground.

Extend almost every draw to make the rope run well on this wild adventurous traverse. Start up the first four U bolts of What the left hand don't know but instead of heading straight up wind your way up the line of fixed hangers out left through steepness and exposure around lip of giant roof finishing at Vertigo's anchor. Attentive rope management required. Best to have second to top rope to clean.

FFA: Matt Fingleton, 16 Apr

3m L of NA. Up runout, easy jugs for three ringbolts (long slings). Pull L into steep runnel and thug up to the base of 50 degree overhung headwall (grade 18 to here). The permadraw hanging over the lip points the way. A hard and direct boulder problem to the blind (and tiny) hold over the lip. Difficult moves are followed by a mantle onto the lip hold. A great sequence of bouldering in a super exposed position, only slightly spoilt by the fact that there’s tempting easy ground off L (not in). Hard to grade. 18 V7? Save your rope and clean from the permadraw and leaver-biner. Rebolted December 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 18 Feb 2012

Easy to find; it’s the biggest roof on the mountain. Much less intimidating than it looks from below. Start 6m L of Dontworry.com at the tree. Prepare yourself for some adventure-sport climbing! Take the time to get the rigging right for this one or you won’t be able to clip the anchor due to drag. Doable with a single rope if you use LOTS of long slings. Easy ramble to the roof. Punch the juggy roof, turn the lip and if you’ve done everything right you’ll be able to pull rope for the anchor clip Impossible to clean from the anchor, so back-jump the roof and lower-off. Rebolted Dec 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes & JJ O'Brien, 4 Feb 2012

Start three metres left of Don't Worry.com at the arete. Follow bolts through sea of sculpted holds heading for ring bolted anchor in roof. A great new warmup for this sector.

FA: Matt Fingleton, 25 Feb

FFA: Matt Fingleton, 5 Mar

Climb Read between the lines placing long runner on anchor. Lean out and clip first bolt in roof before commiting to bouldery horizontal climbing to out of sight second bolt over lip. Quest straight up the corner above on gnarly finger locks and levitation to a stance and a third bolt before heading to Ninderry Airs anchor.

FFA: Matt Fingleton, 27 Mar

Climb Read between the lines placing long runner on anchor. Lean out and clip first bolt in roof before commiting to bouldery horizontal climbing to out of sight second bolt over lip. Clip this from solid position and venture out with some airy jugging to join Ninderry Air at it's last bolt finishing up this. Solid climbing through the roof with some great movement on good holds. Varient ending to Above Board.

FFA: Matt Fingleton, 5 Mar

Slab to headwall to exposed step-around to techy corner. A bit of everything! If you're up for the adventure it's not to be missed. Top bolt very loose on anchors. Hand tighten and put your draws next to the bottom bolt until someone can come with a spanner (loctite or lock washer please).

FFA: Jerome, Sep 2011

Starts on higher terrace just right of Dontworry.com. Slab past three bolts under roof. Monkey out and through on huge holds. Take the left side of the arête past a harder move, then slab headwall.

FA: Lee, Sam Cujes & John O'Brien, 30 Dec 2013

Fun steep monkeying on amazingly solid funk! Committing and rewarding. Start on chossy shelf a metre to the left of TOAGSW on U bolts. Move left a move at fourth bolt, and make sure you don't miss the fifth bolt (use a long quickdraw), which is hiding above one of the rooflets.

FA: Matt Schimke & Terry Forbes

Shares first 3 bolts of Korova then up the bulging face right of the corner past another 4 bolts. Left of the block at the top, compressing past the final bolt, to the anchors of Toils.

FA:

FA:

Set:

Great limestone-esque climbing up face and corner L of flying buttress. Good route but take a rappel device for the last climber as the anchors are mallions that twist the rope so a rappel is advised. Will be fixed in due course.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2011

...because you know i will find you. Start up the open corner left of Palsy stepping left onto the face at the forth bolt. Thought provoking moves deliver you to crux boulder problem through small roof bulge before finishing up offwidth crack to anchor in black rock.

FA: Matt Fingleton, 29 Mar

FFA: Matt Fingleton, 30 Mar

Easy past a few bolts, then hard resistance climbing with minging crimps and wide spans. At the 5th bolt move naturally R into Nitro for a few moves then back L to the 6th. The route sticks to the face so the back wall is off limits until you're at the anchors.

Set: Kenny Walker

FFA: Kenny Walker, 8 Apr 2015

First 5 bolts of SNP, then logically R into the business section of Nitro. Hard crimpy V5 boulder problem into grade 24 climbing.

FFA: Kenny Walker, May 2012

Already a classic.

FA: Jerome, 1992

FFA: Jerome, Aug 2011

Really cool low dyno (unless you're Long-arms Schimke), then a baffling upper crux which can be solved with some knee-trickery. Hard to grade as the sequence is short, but hard/bizarre. It goes without saying the chalked holds out right on Harvey Wallbanger are not in. 7 ringbolts to anchors. Rebolted December 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 5 May 2012

Start up Semtex. After the deadpoint move dance left crossing Nitro and finishing up Sat Night.

FFA: Cal, 30 Mar

Up Semtex till 5th cruxing left to the carrot then clipping one FH on nitro and lean into sat night crux using the matchbox hold. Finish straight up black wall to YCOH anchors. Excellent

Easy to begin then steep white wall to black headwall. Traverse L at the obvious slopey break, then up past last bolt to enjoy engaging moves to chains.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

R side of Nitro Wall. Begin under bulge. Use some longer runners in first half. Above 5th bolt climb direct up cracked face and avoid the choosy scramble up the pillar out L (subtract a grade this way). Keeps punching all the way to the chains!

FFA: Kenny Walker, May 2012

These 2 routes can be found in a completely seperate area from the previous routes... On an isolated pillar where the track rounds the southern point of Ninderry between Ocean Vista and The Caves. Look for the tiny cave with bolts above it. Hard bouldery start followed by a few intersting sections. Use long runner on 3rd. Air-y climbing up arete to chains out L.

FFA: John 'Deadly with the Ladies' Davies, Jul 2011

Variant finish to DWA. At the roof hand traverse R along the lip then crank for the top. Powerful moves and a tricky mantle. Wildly exposed fun climbing which deserves to be more popular.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Jul 2011

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