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Sunset Buttress

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 63
4
AU

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
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D

Description

This diminutive buttress of excellent rock is good for morning warmups or winter days, this crag glows golden in the afternoon sun. A few quality short routes abide so far, with potential for a few more yet.

Access issues inherited from Mt Ninderry

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. Please approach via the land atop Ocean Vista Drive which is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park up on the grass verge on the mountain side of the road. Spread cars out as much as possible. Better still, park 50m back up the street on the shoulder adjacent the steep embankment. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular, use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels. Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS. Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!). This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Approach

Located five minutes walk from the cave. Follow the cairns along the cliff base.

Ethic inherited from Mt Ninderry

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

R side route on Sunset Buttress. Beautiful rock.

FFA: John DWTL Davies, 2012

Begins from ground level. Cruxy and heartbreaking to the chains!

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2012

Begins on ledge, Face L side of runnel. Good climbing on excellent rock. Harder if you're short.

Set by

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

Technical and sustained with multiple cruxes. Stay true to the line, particularly above bolts 4 and 5, where committing moves to thank-god jugs keep you honest.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

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