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Lost boulder

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 33

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Description

First boulder you come to as you leave the track. Is a 10m boulder split in two, all the problems are on the uphill /east side. The south side has lots of cool features that just need a few more millennia to erode into something usable.

Access issues inherited from Mt Yarrowyck

The majority of the bouldering and climbing at Yarrowyck is located on private property, and the land owner was a climber and has granted access to all climbers anytime, EXCEPT for all crags east of the ridge line which are too close to the land owners house and are off limits, in particular 'Captain Pugwash Memorial Buttress'.

Please do not leave garbage around, leave gates as you find them and do not harass stock. Climbing at Yarrowyck is a privilege, not a right.

The access tracks are in the Nature Reserve which is managed by NPWS which takes you to the Aboriginal Rock Art site. Bouldering or climbing in the reserve is not clear so please avoid this and check the boundaries when exploring.

https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/mount-yarrowyck-nature-reserve

https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/topics/parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/park-management/documents/mount-yarrowyck-nature-reserve

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Routes

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Grade Route

Right sloper, left friction, then dyno? to massive jug

Meagre start holds, up to an inverted rail, a bull shit crimp and then link into the standing variant.

Start on good crimps, then tricky feet to top

Start left of arete with right hand on arete. Long move up left to left hand sloper. Mantle straight over. Cool moves. Sit start still to be done, getting established on the arete from the sit start is hard and a bit contrived.

SDS then left to rail and mantle up the edge of the diamond. Don't stray right

SDS then side mantle and up arete

Up easy slab in various ways

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