★★ Monkey Land 23

Fixed Gear: Dangerous Bolts

The carrot-style bolts used extensively on the southern section of the Nerriga crag (south of the road) are mild steel lag bolts and will snap easily even if they appear ok on the surface. They are screwed into the rock, rusty and cannot be trusted for even body weight. They are used as both lead bolts and as anchor bolts paired with galvanised chain and often corroded biners. In many places they have also been placed on top of the cliff. A handful of routes have been re-bolted but if it is not a U bolt or a nice new bright stainless glue in carrot (top out anchors only) then do not trust it.

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