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Summary

Steep, hard and short.

Description

On the western slopes of Mt Coree just above Two Sticks Rd is this large boulder with some of the ACT's hardest routes. It is shadier than Coree's summit and because of the altitude quite a lot cooler than most Canberra crags. It is possible to boulder at the bottom of the climbs, though none of them are particularly tall in any case.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

From the intersection of Two Sticks Road and Curries Road, drive 850m along Two Sticks Road towards Mount Coree. You will see a scree slope on the right. Park and walk up the scree for 30m to get to the cliff.

History

History timeline chart

Most climbs were established in 1996 and 1997, and few specific dates of first ascents have been recorded.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike) © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route

Steep jugs up the arete. Starts from a rock pile, and traverses right under the lip to the anchors.

FA: Glenn Jones

Start marked. A hard move to start, a fun traverse out right then up the corner to the chains.

FA: Glenn Jones

FA: George Fieg

FA: George Fieg

Totally awesome. Overhangs 50 degrees. A heel/toe hook had snapped as of last updated, so possibly back to project status.

FA: George Fieg

Crimps to a dyno.

FA: George Fieg

FA: Sarah Fieg

Technical, steep and classy. Crux getting onto the wall.

FA: Sarah Fieg

Originally 23 but now 25 with the loss of a flake.

FA: Sarah Fieg

Classic little warm up, harder now a hold has broken.

FA: Glenn Jones

Link up of born to fade and flat head. Climb up born to fade for 3 bolts then continue up flat head clipping it's last bolt and chains.

FA: James lister, 2020

Start at The Crack and take the left arete.

FA: Sarah Fieg

Natural gear - very technical.

FA: John Smart & Mike Law-Smith, 1983

The most open handed of the 26's at Hollywood. Between The Crack and Weazels Ripped My Flesh.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2006

Amazing dynamic climbing. It's on from the get go.

FA: George Fieg

A bit of a unique boulder-route hybrid that makes for a great endurance route at a usually short and burly crag. Start on the good holds at the base of 'Weasels Ripped My Flesh' and traverse the sloper rail rightwards, at the good holds at the start of 'Right Here Right Now' you do a hard sequence to drop down and right a few moves to then come back up into the start of '200 Motels' and the other routes that start here. Continue up 'Return Of The Real' all the way to its anchors.

The best way to do this is to start tied in and ready to lead and have your belayer walk the rope along with you until you clip the first bolt and then climb on as usual. A single crash mat protecting the crux of the boulder is sufficient to make this boulder-route safe and enjoyable.

It's different, it's neither a route nor a boulder, but it IS really fun climbing - have a go! The traverse on its own finishing at the jugs at the first bolt is around V7. Starting at the jugs halfway through the traverse is about V6 and finishing up 'Return Of The Real' from here is about 27. A much harder version finishing up '200 Motels' would add 1 or 2 grades to that route.

FA: Duncan Brown, 7 Feb

Very bouldery and dynamic.

FA: George Fieg

FA: P. Cuthbert

Slopey crux to excellent finish.

FA: George Fieg

Around the corner on the more vertical wall

Superb arete and roof. Crimpy number

FA: Glenn Jones

Very sustained and pumpy until the last move. Was 31, but a new sequence was found. A great route and surprising long for the short crag.

FA: George Fieg

One of the best. Hard for the grade and thin. A number of holds have come off since the first ascent.

FA: Sarah Fieg

Technical and thin. Start up Ice and traverse right to Chilled Eyeball(s).

FA: Sarah Fieg

Starting on the boulders

A warm up on the left.

FA: Sarah Fieg

Warm up on the right, to a shared lower-off.

FA: Mike Peck

Start on the boulder and up short arete to chains

FA: Justin Ryan, 2015

Up short corner. Shares chains with Unstable Ally

FA: Justin Ryan, 2015

No idea where this one is jammed in

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2006

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