Nodes in Geology Crag

Free standing boulders of varying size and rock quality. Currently being developed by local climbers

Note: There's patchy reception at the top of the hills/cliffs, but best to load guides/etc. prior

Boulders on the Uphill side of Wollar Road

The large silicified boulder close to the road and parking. Strangely silicified on one face

Sit start on two chunky side pulls move up to nice clean set of crimps and then traverse right around to arete. Finish matched on the large overhanging sloper block.

Sit start on bottom left of face on sidepull crimps and climb up and right into Mohs to finish as for that problem.

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Standstart on opposing vertical pinches in middle of face and move up easy compression before a difficult traverse up and right on the slippery slopers to finish up some hard moves to crimps and side pulls. Top out Take a grade off if you kneebar for the mantle

Sit start on crimps and up big/hard moves into the end of Mohs. Appropriate footholds yet to be discovered

Start as for Mohs but exiting halfway at the triangle jug to easy topout

Sit start on huge jug and up big moves on good ledges to finish matched on jug to the right just to the left of Sheer Terror. Top out optional but adds a lot of fun and not much difficulty. Probably climbed many times and with many variations but found with chalk on it in 2017

Up the scoop. Weirdly off balance and scary

Sit start on left jug side pull and lowest right crimp. Climb up and over the Arete.

Mid height traverse from the left arete to the jugs on the far right of the boulder. Sharp holds

Stand start up cool moves on juggy pockets to a tough topout on juggy slopers. Make sure to thoroughly clean out the holes first

Crouch start on broken left crimp and right hand crimp. Left into slot crimp and then up through slopers

Sit start on left broken crimp and right hand on terrible sloper. Hard deadpoint into start of crouch start

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Sit start to the right of Spherulite Sit and up cool slopers with a cool foot cam

Sit start to the left of Bootylicious, climbing into the same exit

Stand/crouch start on flat edge and include crimp. Move up through slopers to juggy slopers into slab with tufas. Very cool

Located on back of the Silicified Boulder. To the right of the downclimb.

Start as for Artifact, reversing Mohs traverse into the top of Thunder

Boulder on the shoulder at the parking spot with "Baka" in blue graffiti (hard to read)

Stand start on good crimps below ledge. Up and mantle onto ledge before second easier mantle. Sketchy landing

Cramped sit start on left edge and right jug. Moving up some good edges to top out jug. Sketchy landing

Environment:

Munghorn Gap National Park is home to some sensitive flora and fauna species. Please be mindful when cleaning or exploring new boulders and stay on the developing tracks where they exist (it'll be nicer for you too). Only clean areas of the boulder which require cleaning. There is no need to clean the entire boulder, only areas where holds are. Please avoid using wire brushes wherever possible so that the sandstone of the area is not damaged. Lichen in almost all cases can be removed easily with a stiff bristled brush like a grout brush with a follow up with a soft bristle brush or bouldering brush to remove loose material.

Rubbish and Litter

The area is currently very clean from litter but you may come across litter on the side of the road. There has also been past prospecting, blacksmithing, mining, travel and grazing in the area by early European settlers. Therefore its not unusual to come in contact with some old relics from these times. In most cases this will be old glass bottles, rusty food tins, metal or cans. These can be removed and disposed of presuming its not anything of obvious significance or importance. If you see rubbish, please remove it when you leave. It goes without saying to take all your rubbish with you.

Aboriginal Sites:

Munghorn Gap National Park still is and was an important location to Aboriginal people. Climbers should be cognisant and respectful of this by avoiding putting up routes/problems around identified Aboriginal Sites. Always perform a visual check of the rock first to ensure it doesn't contain any Aboriginal artwork. A search has been taken with the Aboriginal Heritage Information Management System to ensure that sectors are not being developed near currently identified Aboriginal sites. Click Here for a map of the currently recorded closest Aboriginal sites (shown with a yellow dot) which are closest to the Crag. Please give these areas a wide birth when setting up or exploring for new sectors. A map of the current sectors of the Crag (as of Jan 2022) has been overlaid as a reference.

Fences & Private Property:

You may come across old fence wire or fence posts. If around the existing Crag, these are remnants from when areas were previously used for grazing. Please be aware that private property lies south just of the Crag and in the case of the south side of the Hillside sector, just over the road. Please refer to the Geology Crag Noteworthy Boundaries & Sites map and avoid these areas altogether. For the latest boundaries of the area, the NSW Spatial Information Exchange website is a great reference. You can also change the map layers on the crag to show the boundaries by selecting the OSM or Terrain (Esri) option.

Chalk:

Please be sensible with the amount of chalk that you use on the holds and try to only use as much as you need. Many of the boulders are exposed to the weather and the chalk tends to wash off almost completely in the next good rain. That being said, it's always good practice to give your holds a quick brush to clean any excess chalk before you leave a problem. Especially if its protected from the weather or if you wont be returning to it anytime soon.

Sit start on two sidepulls and move up through slopey pinches and slopers to top out straight up.

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Stand start on sloper

Stand start on good left hand and less good 2 finger pocket with poor feet and up left arete with big moves and bad holds. Stick to the arete as the face holds are a bit chossy

Direct start to Face Proj

Stand start on broken face hold and right hand jug on hanging flake. Up and left with interesting beta on some suspect holds to cool ironstone pockets before topping out.

Stand start on broken pinch. Up and left to big gutter

Round boulder with a large bowl on the top

Sit start on jugs to the left of the Caldera, and up fun moves on jug rail. Very good

Sit start on crimps and climb up and right to lip of the bowl to top out up

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Cool dyno from left hand and crimp right hand undercling to jug on peak of boulder

Start as for Caldera finishing with the Eruption dyno

Large boulder next to the Pinch Out Boulder with a tree currently leaning on it

Big more from slopey pinch gaston to jug over sketchy landing. Topout looks very hard

Stand start on good side pull and move up and right to mantle onto slab to top out. Pick your feet well

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Smaller area with the classic Crack Lovers, and some potential for more

Smaller boulder just in front of Crack Lovers facing the road. Stand start and pop up slab. Fun one mover

Sit start in crack on 2 finger jams and jam/layback up crack to some proper palm jamming up top.

Up the blunt arete on the right of Crack Lovers. Looks moderate

Stand start on jug and undercling and up big move on decent holds to a struggle in the offwidth crack to mantle. Feels desperate

Sit start at start of The Hanging Wall Proj and traverse left on worsening crimps into the start of Offset to finish as for that problem

Tall, overhanging, striking boulder. Looks to be vhard

Rectangular rock with lowside cave and highside overhang feature

Stand start inside cave with under cling, move around to the right and up the face. Avoid using top-side edge during climb.

Blake Muir (FA)

Sit start on jugs and up to finish as for Angel in Realtime

Sit start on crimp ledge and up slab via edge ladder

Sit start on jugs of 8th Avenue then up slab to the left via palm press and crimps

Sit start, climb up face to top out, lots of nice jugs up top to use

Sit start in front of the cave on the lower side of the Boulder. Traverse up all the way up and around linking up with 8th Avenue to top out.

Blake Muir (FA)

Cool 2.5m tall boulder with some nice face climbing leading to mantle cruxes

Cramped sit start on 2 pockets and up face to the right on good crimps and edges to crux move up top slapping to jug hole

Same start as Hole of Glory, but up and left to more difficult mantle. Very cool

Striking area of boulders at the base of the cliff line with a range of climbing for all levels.

Interesting little boulder with a 90 degree corner/feature to start. A fun, challenging but safe and technical little climb.

Crouch start on left of boulder. Traverse right and up through cool corner to mantle crux

Striking 5m Tall Arete style boulder.

Crouch start matched on good pocket then up slab before a pretty epic palm press to finish. Don't use arete for assistance.

Blake Muir (FA)

Stand start on high side of 5m arete and climb up using good jugs on arete to top out.

Blake Muir (FA)

Stand start up Scandi Grind's downhill side

Up right hand side arete to the underhung section, traverse left along small horizontal crack and then up the vertical crack in the centre

Two small thimble like boulders. Larger of the two is really the only one worth considering. Probably only good for some sit start problems, orbit traverse's or general endurance loops. Most problems set on this would be in the v0-2 range.

Sit start on uphill side of largest boulder. Orbit traverse the largest of the two sister thimble boulders counter-clockwise. Don't use the top during traverse. Holds have been cleaned but not yet sent. Maybe v4?

Moderate sized oblong shaped boulder just past the chimney.

Features off balance board climbing on slopey holds

Stand start on good flat (left leaning) edges and make big move up to some bad slopers. Quite an off balance climb

Don't use any of the pebbles in the thin band, they're highly likely to come out

Sit start on slopey right and and good left hand with cramped feet?

A couple hard hand and foot moves into the start of Tilted

Probably around v8?

Huge round boulder with a couple potential classics

Sit start in cave and up and out arete to climb left to difficult mantle and slab. Needs some more cleaning. ~V8+

Face climb. Not much down low with a decent looking hold halfway up. Holds look a bit sus.

Highball boulder with several lines for bold climbers. Reasonably well featured and slightly obtuse but most problems will be very hard and dangerous due to the length and height of the climb.

Highball offwidth for first half then transition onto left hand side arete and up to large dish/cave topping out via the centre. Needs cleaning.

Stand start and straight up the face. Highball. Needs cleaning. Landing okish but needs a bit of cleanup.

Super highball. Stand start up right hand side of Pint via the sheered face. Top out. Needs cleaning. Landing is very sketchy.

Shark tooth shaped highball boulder with a large sheer face on the uphill side. Downhill side features a rounded slab climb which turns vertical at the top. Very high, very hard.

Right up the middle of the face. Some nice features but very high. Landing is ok. Downclimb is sketchy or non existent so bring a ladder. Face needs cleaning and is a bit chossy.

Almost featureless face climb lower down. Lower holds yet to be found. Gets steeper towards to top. Super highball climb. No down climb visible so bring a ladder.

Boulders in the downhill side of Wollar road.

Environment:

Munghorn Gap National Park is home to some sensitive flora and fauna species. Please be mindful when cleaning or exploring new boulders and stay on the developing tracks where they exist (it'll be nicer for you too). Only clean areas of the boulder which require cleaning. There is no need to clean the entire boulder, only areas where holds are. Please avoid using wire brushes wherever possible so that the sandstone of the area is not damaged. Lichen in almost all cases can be removed easily with a stiff bristled brush like a grout brush with a follow up with a soft bristle brush or bouldering brush to remove loose material.

Rubbish and Litter

The area is currently very clean from litter but you may come across litter on the side of the road. There has also been past prospecting, blacksmithing, mining, travel and grazing in the area by early European settlers. Therefore its not unusual to come in contact with some old relics from these times. In most cases this will be old glass bottles, rusty food tins, metal or cans. These can be removed and disposed of presuming its not anything of obvious significance or importance. If you see rubbish, please remove it when you leave. It goes without saying to take all your rubbish with you.

Aboriginal Sites:

Munghorn Gap National Park still is and was an important location to Aboriginal people. Climbers should be cognisant and respectful of this by avoiding putting up routes/problems around identified Aboriginal Sites. Always perform a visual check of the rock first to ensure it doesn't contain any Aboriginal artwork. A search has been taken with the Aboriginal Heritage Information Management System to ensure that sectors are not being developed near currently identified Aboriginal sites. Click Here for a map of the currently recorded closest Aboriginal sites (shown with a yellow dot) which are closest to the Crag. Please give these areas a wide birth when setting up or exploring for new sectors. A map of the current sectors of the Crag (as of Jan 2022) has been overlaid as a reference.

Fences & Private Property:

You may come across old fence wire or fence posts. If around the existing Crag, these are remnants from when areas were previously used for grazing. Please be aware that private property lies south just of the Crag and in the case of the south side of the Hillside sector, just over the road. Please refer to the Geology Crag Noteworthy Boundaries & Sites map and avoid these areas altogether. For the latest boundaries of the area, the NSW Spatial Information Exchange website is a great reference. You can also change the map layers on the crag to show the boundaries by selecting the OSM or Terrain (Esri) option.

Chalk:

Please be sensible with the amount of chalk that you use on the holds and try to only use as much as you need. Many of the boulders are exposed to the weather and the chalk tends to wash off almost completely in the next good rain. That being said, it's always good practice to give your holds a quick brush to clean any excess chalk before you leave a problem. Especially if its protected from the weather or if you wont be returning to it anytime soon.

Looks slightly more doable but still tall and blank

Looks doable but very tall and hard

Smallish boulder on the left walking into the crag. Large amount of fallen trees and branches around it following the floods

Easy slab up first groove

Start 2 hands on right wall and stem up corner to a fun mantle, staying in the first groove

Up side pull on arete via big moves maybe

Start as for Petrified Crimps but moving left across face via shoulder move

Crouch start on crimps up face

Stand start on flat jug and up left

Up the other face of balancing rock eliminating the big jug

Crouch start on left hand arete and right hand bad sloper. Hard tension move then to the lip

Sit on lower sloper then climb into terrible start position of balancing rock

Sit start on bad sloper crimp thing and hard cross to another sloper crimp thing before busting right to good horn near lip. FA used a bicycle on the arete

Large boulder next to the Listric Boulder. Climbing is on overhanging face on other side. Features great board climbing on good rock and interesting features

Best way to get down is to unmantle above Lythophysa and drop off or bring a ladder.

Stand start on opposing poor slopers with hooks or poor feet. Up to good crimp and more slopers. Maybe v6 ish?

Sit start maybe possible

Stand start on sloper and head up and left through techy and powerful moves to top out. Sitstart adds a couple fun moves on jugs

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Start at stone cold and climb up and right through small crimps to top out above Director's Special

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Stand start on 2 sharp crimps before crux move to pinch of Director's Special.

Squat start on good side pulls and up burly compression on small holds. Super sick

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Sit start at Tuff proj (left crimp and right in hole) and move up and left into Stone Cold via small sharp crimps. Hard

Sit start at Tuff Proj (left hand crimp right hand big hole) and up to the left to start of The People's Line to finish as per that problem. Hard