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Crack Lovers Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 5
  • Ascents: 6

Seasonality

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Description

Smaller area with the classic Crack Lovers, and some potential for more

Access issues inherited from Geology Crag

Environment:
Munghorn Gap National Park is home to some sensitive flora and fauna species. Please be mindful when cleaning or exploring new boulders and stay on the developing tracks where they exist (it'll be nicer for you too). Only clean areas of the boulder which require cleaning. There is no need to clean the entire boulder, only areas where holds are. Please avoid using wire brushes wherever possible so that the sandstone of the area is not damaged. Lichen in almost all cases can be removed easily with a stiff bristled brush like a grout brush with a follow up with a soft bristle brush or bouldering brush to remove loose material.
Rubbish and Litter
The area is currently very clean from litter but you may come across litter on the side of the road. There has also been past prospecting, blacksmithing, mining, travel and grazing in the area by early European settlers. Therefore its not unusual to come in contact with some old relics from these times. In most cases this will be old glass bottles, rusty food tins, metal or cans. These can be removed and disposed of presuming its not anything of obvious significance or importance. If you see rubbish, please remove it when you leave. It goes without saying to take all your rubbish with you.
Aboriginal Sites:
Munghorn Gap National Park still is and was an important location to Aboriginal people. Climbers should be cognisant and respectful of this by avoiding putting up routes/problems around identified Aboriginal Sites. Always perform a visual check of the rock first to ensure it doesn't contain any Aboriginal artwork. A search has been taken with the Aboriginal Heritage Information Management System to ensure that sectors are not being developed near currently identified Aboriginal sites. Click Here for a map of the currently recorded closest Aboriginal sites (shown with a yellow dot) which are closest to the Crag. Please give these areas a wide birth when setting up or exploring for new sectors. A map of the current sectors of the Crag (as of Jan 2022) has been overlaid as a reference.
Fences & Private Property:
You may come across old fence wire or fence posts. If around the existing Crag, these are remnants from when areas were previously used for grazing. Please be aware that private property lies south just of the Crag and in the case of the south side of the Hillside sector, just over the road. Please refer to the Geology Crag Noteworthy Boundaries & Sites map and avoid these areas altogether. For the latest boundaries of the area, the NSW Spatial Information Exchange website is a great reference. You can also change the map layers on the crag to show the boundaries by selecting the OSM or Terrain (Esri) option.
Chalk:
Please be sensible with the amount of chalk that you use on the holds and try to only use as much as you need. Many of the boulders are exposed to the weather and the chalk tends to wash off almost completely in the next good rain. That being said, it's always good practice to give your holds a quick brush to clean any excess chalk before you leave a problem. Especially if its protected from the weather or if you wont be returning to it anytime soon.

Approach

Park on wide left shoulder if coming from Mudgee. Parking for this boulder is 200m uphill from the silicified boulder. You can walk to this boulder along the hillside area if you are parked at the silicified boulder but for ease it's best to drive from silicified boulder parking spot to this shoulder and park. Boulder and the crack is visible from the road approx 25m up the hill from the road.

History

History timeline chart

Found by Tomas Briones Lopez after a misunderstanding of the approach to the Plateau

Routes

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Grade Route

Smaller boulder just in front of Crack Lovers facing the road. Stand start and pop up slab. Fun one mover

FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 18 Sep 2022

Sit start in crack on 2 finger jams and jam/layback up crack to some proper palm jamming up top.

Up the blunt arete on the right of Crack Lovers. Looks moderate

Stand start on jug and undercling and up big move on decent holds to a struggle in the offwidth crack to mantle. Feels desperate

FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 7 Sep 2022

Sit start at start of The Hanging Wall Proj and traverse left on worsening crimps into the start of Offset to finish as for that problem

FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 7 Sep 2022

Tall, overhanging, striking boulder. Looks to be vhard

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