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Central Coast

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Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

History

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Local climbers, especially the Wondabyne Climbing Club (active mid-70s to mid-80s), comprehensively explored the area's roped climbing potential by the early 1980s, but sadly not a lot of information survives from this period. What is known is that they did a lot of exploration by boat, so most of the cliffs visible from the water would have been explored by this group.

This group climbed quite a lot with Joe Friend, who is reported to have lived a semi-hermit-like existence on Long Island near Brooklyn for several months during this period. One story involves a very hungover ascent up the tall eastern cliff on Lion Island, which, given the apparent rock quality there, was probably a pretty terrifying outing. Another story involves Phil Stallard of the WCC aid climbing the major crack system at Eagle Rock on the Hawksbury, with his leg in a cast (they'd planned on attempting to free the route, but Phil broke his leg in the weeks prior so they went and aided it instead).

In the mid-90s the Monks brothers explored much of the 'Bouddi National Park' areas, and top-roped and bouldered throughout the park (in particular the Lobster Beach areas and 'Bullima'). At around this time, Paul Riviere and friends were developing Joll's Bridge, and over the subsequent decade development inched north and east.

Development in Bouddi National Park (especially at the Lobster Beach Cave) has been quite contentious with NPWS and local residents, especially as the park has also been illegally developed by mountain bikers during this same period. A new plan of management was drafted in 2019 which seeks to ban climbing from the entirety of the park.

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Koolewong Crag
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
112
413
6m
21
41
208
4m
1
Warning Bouddi National Park Crag
 Sport climbing,  Bouldering and other styles
136
1,140
11m
14
Umina Crag
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
193
581
9m
20
Blackwall Crag
78
552
10m
7
Woy Woy Crag
 Bouldering,  Sport climbing and other styles
272
1,739
8m
20
Hominy Crag
16
32
11m
3
145
1,037
17m
14
Closed Hawkesbury Bridge Cliff Unavailable

Unlocated crags

This region has 3 unlocated crags! If you think you know where Warrah Trig, Joe Pike's 40 Acres or Way Out West are located then please take a minute to locate them for the climbing community.

Locating crags gives you Karma points. Please contact us if you have any issues.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Central Coast.

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