Dog Face/Wagstaff

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 15
  • Aka: Wagstaff

Access: Draft POM bans climbing

There's a new POM out for Bouddi NP, and it places a blanket ban on all rockclimbing within the park. Submissions are due by Sept 30th, 2019.

Details here:

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago




A fun afternoon's climbing on Hawkesbury sandstone. All climbs equipped with RB's. Grades 16-24


A small crag at top of the hill above Wagstaff shop. Walk in as for Lobster Cave. 8 short sport climbs on reasonable sandstone with grades 16-25

Access issues

respect the privacy of local residents and keep a low profile. This is National Park. Leave nothing but chalk marks.


Park in Mulhall St just beyong the Wagstaff general store. Walk up to Albert St (dirt road) and turn L. Walk a further 200mts until you come to a large boulder on the R side of the road. Take the track from here. Walk up this track for about 200mts until you come to a junction (you are looking over the bay and Umina Beach). Turn R and walk a further 200mts. The track divides here. The L track descends to Lobster Cave. Take the R uphill option. You can see the Wagstaff rocks about 150mts up the hill. Skirt around the L side of these rocks and you will come to Dogface after a further 50mts. Climbs are listed R to L commencing with Plate of the Day



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Grade Route

The western face of the outcrop known as Dog Face, at the top of the hill above Wagstaffe General Store.

FFTRA Will Monks, Peter Monks, Dec 96.

FA: Will Monks & Peter Monks, 1996

The first line on the R side of this wall. Hard move to start if doing direct and up past RB to first (bolt reinforced) flakey plate then move R to 2nd (bolt reinforced) flakey plate and up to anchors

Set by paul

FA: paul, 27 Jan 2018

This line runs up the centre of the wall starting 1mt L of "Plate of the Day". Up to bolt reinforced flake. and easy ground up to anchors

Set by paul

FA: Sean Tehan Paul Riviere, 27 Jan 2018

Starts 4mts L of Blubber Fish. The ramp trending L then up past two artificial holds (bolted and glued). Move R again up to L facing corner then to anchors

Set by paul

FA: Paul Riviere, 27 Jan 2018

Start as for Nauti Buoy up to the artificial holds then straight up to anchors

Set by paul

FA: Paul Riviere, 28 Jan 2018

Starts 3mts L of Nauti Bouy in the alcove. Bridge your way up R passing two RB's in the roof to join Sin Bad. Finish as for SB anchors

FA: Paul Riviere

Starts in the alcove but climbs the overhang opposite the start of WNKoF. Use same first 2 RB's as for WNKoF then hard moves up past the holds on the L side of the wall. Finish at the anchors

Set by paul

FA: Paul Riviere & Nic Bartos, 4 Mar 2018

Next route 2mts L of Ramora (opposite wall to WNKoF). Start at the base of the obvious flake. Past first 2 RB's then R (crux) to gain the same upper section of Ramora.

Set by paul

FA: paul & Nic Bartos, 4 Feb 2018

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