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Copacabana

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Summary

Seaside Bouldering

Description

Seaside Bouldering north and south of Winnie Bay, Copacabana. Scattered blocks but some high quality routes.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Park along the park on Del Monte Place (opposite house number 44) and walk down to the bottom of the park to find the path leading to Winnie Bay.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Turn left after exiting the track onto the rocks. Follow the cliff line north. Be careful of the tide and waves.

Sit start far right with LH in obvious scoop and RH/feet wherever comfortable. Traverse left staying low until big move around the corner to juggy pocket. Mantle around the prow and then top out. Top of the Boulder is out until you mantle the prow.

Sit start in the obvious low undercling gaining the ledge, then move through the sloper to topout. All the pockets to the left and right of the climb are out. The high left sidepull is also out.

One of the last boulders when walking north, clearly visible up on the left. Sitstart to some great moves on juggy pockets to a classic mantle.

Video link https://www.instagram.com/reel/CZEaNkTJ4u5/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 22 Jan 2022

20m before Deep Blue Cheese down on the right (can be wet at high tide/swell). From the low edge (shared with The Pisces) go right and up.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 22 Jan 2022

Sit/crouch start as for The Aquarius, but go straight up with hands using the two crimpers on the left only.

Video link https://www.instagram.com/reel/CZDNsqOATFQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

FA: Tom Hodgson, 22 Jan 2022

A low traverse along the sloping edges on the face that finishes as for "The Aquarius". Stand-start with hands matched on the good edge on the right and head leftward along the sharp-angled slopers/crimps without using the lip for your hands. Make hard moves to the side pull on "The Aquarius" (at the arete) before using the lip to mantel. Somewhat contrived but fun.

FA: Jamie Ung, 2 Jan

On right hand side of the same bloc as The Aquarius.

Low start on small crimps. Climb up and left using good edges until you make the arete and then traverse up and right along it until you make the “V” shaped jug 2/3rds of the way up. Top out from there to finish.

Video link: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZYgUPWJA6b/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

A lowball traverse about 30m south of the 'The Aquarius'. Start on the right, feet low and hands on the solid middle ledge. A first move to a high jug followed by a traverse left sticking to hands on the ledge. Make the crux move across the first major break of the ledge, then up and over. Avoid all crumbly jugs/edges.

FA: Lachlan Duignan, 3 Apr 2022

Walk south from Winnie Bay all the way around the corner to find these boulders on a popular fisherman’s platform

First boulder you get to when walking in. Pumpy V2. Start near the sign and traverse the edge to mantle near the arete.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 27 Jan 2022

Sit start.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 27 Jan 2022

Sit start on sloping rail and head out left to the sloping arete, head straight up to top out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 22 Jan 2022

Avoid the crumbly crimpers

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 27 Jan 2022

Avoid the crumbly crimpers

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 27 Jan 2022

Sit start trending right through pocket

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 27 Jan 2022

Sit start from the low horizontal sloper rail and work your way up using the arete, top out left.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 22 Jan 2022

Start left of the lip and traverse around to the middle to top out.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 22 Jan 2022

Closed

Sit start

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 27 Jan 2022

Fun technical slab traverse. Sit start matched on jug on the corner and make your way around using large flake. Some tricky feet to gain the undercling and then two crimps before the final jug and top out. Top edge is out until you reach the last hold.

Video link: https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZYhgKoJlvo/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

One hard move, (pulling on feels pretty hard too). Start with left hand on the arete, and right hand on flat undercling rail. Hard pull on, and jump to crimp rail. Easy top out.

Behind the huge block 30 metres further south. Start as low as you can span.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 27 Jan 2022

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Routes

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Start as for Low double pockets make large move up to crimp rail and topout

FA: Matt Hingee, 2022

Sit-start using a low left hand on the arete and the low pocket on the brown stone. Head up using the crimps and the arete, then top out.

On the right side of The Hive bloc, sit start using the lowest holds. Go straight up. Anything to the left of the vertical iron band is out for hands.

FA: Sara Gebicki, 16 Oct

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