Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Entrance Baths | |||||
V0 | Haemarroidectomy
Up over nose. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Up the crack
Dirty corner-crack 2m right of H. Set: Brendon Flanagan FA: Brendon Flanagan | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Windward Passage
Other crack 1m right of UTC. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ The Rear Route
Up thin crack 3m left of sign post. FA: Brendon Allan Flanagan, 2012 | ||||
Berrys Head Missed Opportunity Block | |||||
V0 | ★ Descent
The middle of the north face of the boulder with a rail and ledge at half height | 3m | |||
V0 | Double mantle
The south west arete right of STD | 4m | |||
Forresters Beach White Tower environs | |||||
V0 | Him Him Him
Sit under left hand ironstone plug and pull on | 2m | |||
V0 | Me Me Me
Sit at right ironstone feature and pull on | 2m | |||
Forresters Beach | |||||
V0 - 1 | ★★ You're the lady I've looked for
Cool semi-highball that starts low on the far right side of the bloc. Make your way straight up and slightly left using juggy ledges and then top out. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
Way Out West | |||||
15 | Into The Night
Use the glued-on cheats foothold to lunge up for the 1st clip, then head out a little left, and up. Rap off. FA: S. Negus & M. Kingsman-Smith, 2009 | 8m | |||
15 | Shine a Light
Same start as above, but move right onto arete (staying low), and then up, remaining on arete as much as possible. Rap off. FA: Stewart Negus & M Kingsman-Smith, 2009 | 8m | |||
15 | ★★ Way Out West
Up the little crack (2 x med cams), then up through the little cave to the lower offs. FA: S. Negus & D. Forbes, 2009 | 7m | |||
16 | Boy on the Run
Straight up the crack (2 x med cams) to lower offs FA: S. Negus (on self-belay), 2009 | 6m | |||
16 | Not Worth the Fighting
Up and left to the lower offs FA: S. Negus & D. Forbes, 2008 | 6m | |||
16 | Smooth Sailing
Same start as above, but traverse (a bit of rope-drag) out right to the arete, and then up. Last move is a bit off-putting!. Rap off FA: S. Negus & M. Kingsman-Smith, 2008 | 10m | |||
West Gosford Amphitheatre | |||||
16 | Sabbatical
Just left of corner at right end of undercut honeycomb. Shared anchors with SS FA: jason piper | 6m, 3 | |||
West Gosford Pimp Boulder | |||||
16 | ★ Paparazzi Palm Shooters
| 8m | |||
West Gosford Rock Soldiers Arete | |||||
15 | Olympe De Pay
Just outside the main orange overhang. Up the crevasse with hex bolts and small cams | 8m | |||
West Gosford Sunshine Boulders | |||||
15 | won day waz
| 5m | |||
West Gosford House Of Praise | |||||
16 | ★ little angel
the slabby arete R of Holy Cow. Lower off anchors Set: dave forbes FA: Dave Forbes, 2007 | 8m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Venial sins
rather non-descript slab. Next route R of perly gates. Lower offs. FA: Dave Forbes, 2006 | 8m, 5 | |||
16 | The end of the world
The slab 20mts to the R of Fall from grace. FA: Dave Forbes, 2006 | 12m, 6 | |||
Apex boulders Spectators | |||||
V0 | ★ Watchman's arete
Start on low edges and climb using only the arete FA: Tom Hodgson | 2m | |||
Apex boulders Gem stone | |||||
V0 | ★ Sapphire
Start matched on the far left rail, traverse the ledge in the break to the nose FA: Murray Taylor | 4m | |||
Point Clare Point Clare Crag | |||||
16 | ★ Mr Window
Through the rings passing right of the 'window'. Apparently a hold has broken around the 3 rd bolt in 2012 making this a little harder and landing the victim with a T 10 # | 12m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Master Window
Line of carrots to the right of Mr. Window | 12m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Ant Scene
| 17m | |||
16 | ★ A shot Shore Short Crack
| 15m, 5 | |||
Point Clare The Armoury The Armoury Wall | |||||
16 | ★ Falcata
Jam your way up to the top using the right side crack. Cams to protect the start, small nuts midway, and some tiny cams under the final ledge before pushing for the top. Build your own anchor at the top. Second to clean or retrieve anchors via the gully further East. FA: Lee Ogley, Oct 2023 | 10m | |||
Point Clare Little Asia Moon Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ Great Mount Suruga
the line just to the left of 'Moon Princess Kaguya' following the thin line of incut crimps to top out. | 3m | |||
Point Clare Flight School Group Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ ONCE
Slab line up the centre of the north side of the Centre Piece topping out. | 4m | |||
Tascott Tascott Cave Bow Prow Wall | |||||
16 | Tree Beards Exit
| 5m | |||
Koolewong Lara Street Boulders Star Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★★ Princess leia
Just left of the left arete straight up on good but diagonally sloping holds | 4m | |||
Koolewong Lara Street Boulders Cranberry boulder | |||||
V0 | Salvation
The vertical crack like feature facing the track. SIt start | 3m | |||
V0 | War child
The right side of the low arête starting at 2 large dishes. Straight up | 4m | |||
Koolewong Lara Street Crag | |||||
16 | ★★ Trackside boulder 2
Climbs just to the left of the right arête of the south face. Single U-Bolt on top shared with 'Trackside boulder 1' | 8m, 3 | |||
V0 | Trackside boulder boulder
2m right of arête, just before small trees. Well featured. | 4m | |||
15 R | Golden orb
The first climb you come to after leaving the main track and contouring along the base of the cliff towards the caves. There are 4 routes just before the first honeycombed cave. Climb the chimney to ledge and step onto face following seam and flake (wires) with small cams in horizontals. U bolt on platform above route. WARNING: Gear placements are not solid, rock is soft and feels a lot harder than a 15! | 9m | |||
V0 | Ground floor
Sit start to Cave 2 climb at undercut, up over prow .Easy to traverse off right when level with first bolt | 3m | |||
V0 | Pyramid
Opposite the right side of the second cave is a pyramidal boulder with a narrow arête on the uphill side. Sit start and climb arête to top out. | 3m | |||
16 | Bull Ants
1m to right of arête with mantle to top out, the left most route on the wall with a chimney at its right end. High first carrot bolt! Single U-bolt on top shared with 'Jack Jumpers' | 10m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Jack Jumpers
The middle route on the wall with high first carrot bolt to begin, protected straight up to finish with a cam, or step left to finish as for 'Bull Ants'. Shares single U-bolt on top with 'Bull Ants' | 9m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Sugar ant
The route just left of chimney, add a few extra grades for the top mantle, but best to preplace anchor on tree and just lower off. | 8m, 3 | |||
16 | Light Sabre
Middle of face around arete to the right of 'Knobs', up centre of well featured slab. No anchor to be found, best to avoid for now. | 8m | |||
Copacabana | |||||
V0 | ★ Showgirl
Avoid the crumbly crimpers FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 27 Jan 2022 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Eighth Metal Jacket
Sit start FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 27 Jan 2022 | 3m | |||
Dark Forrest Passage way | |||||
V0 | ★ Bay of Sand
| ||||
Woy Woy Panama The Ant Hill | |||||
V0 | ★★ Ant world
| ||||
Woy Woy Cog Factory Sprocket Area | |||||
V0 | Suppressed
The layback/ offwidth on the boulder on the trackside to sprocket area, 4 m away from SAB | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★ Holey Moley
Sit Start on the good low edge about 2m right of shake and bake 'Flake'. Climb straight up through the scoopy section to the right hand hole on top. Top out FA: Dan, 2000 | 4m | |||
Woy Woy Cog Factory Robot Workshop | |||||
V0 | ★ Roboto
Sit start at the right hand side of wall on good jug flake. Make a long move up to good holds above the 'Arete' FA: dan, 2007 | ||||
V0 | ★★ Coin Operated Boy
Start 2m to the left of 'Robot workshop' just before the left hand crack. Climb the face starting for a flake type side pull. FA: Dan, 2007 | ||||
V0 | ★ Robo Dog
Press into the scoopy slab, avoiding the crack on the right Start: On the small block adjacent to 'Coin Operated Boy' FA: Dan, 2007 | ||||
Woy Woy Road House Break Down Lane Left | |||||
V0 | ★ Slopey Pete
| ||||
Woy Woy Road House Break Down Lane Right | |||||
V0 | Project
| ||||
V0 | Check, one, two project
Start: Standing at blank slab | ||||
Woy Woy Road House Baby Block | |||||
V0 | Slopey Pete
A slopey 'Arete' over beyond Huckleberry. FA: Dan, 2000 | ||||
Woy Woy Road House Press Man Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ My Trolley
Sit start in middle of wall, straight up. Start: Sit FA: dan, 2000 | ||||
V0 | ★ Ride On
| ||||
V0 | ★ Back in the Saddle
A cute little problem on the r/h end. Sit start below the short arete climb up and onto it, mounting it like a saddle in the process Start: Sit start on pockets and arete FA: dan, 2000 | ||||
Woy Woy Road House Odyssey Block | |||||
V0 | Backyard BBQ
As for BC but straight up on mostly jugs | 2m | |||
Woy Woy Road House Tree Wall | |||||
V0 | ★ Tricky Dicky
| ||||
Woy Woy Phegans Bay | |||||
15 | ★★ Mr Penetration
Start: Below overhanging off width corner at left end of wall. A gutsy little climb. Straight up the corner. Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther 1979 | 6m | |||
16 | ★ NS
On left side of arete. Stem up the dihedral to start then follow arete to top. 4 BRs to DRB lower off. | 15m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Stingray
Obvious line up middle of left wall to DRB. Thin start but getting easier with height. 5 BRs. FA: Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther & Steve Moss, 1978 | 15m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Mohamed
Large crack that splits the main wall. FA: Phil Stallard, Dave McGrouther, Steve Moss & Scott Hoy | 15m | |||
15 | ★★ HS
2m right of SS/P. Around small bulge and then straight up easy ground to DRB lower offs. Well protected with 5 BRs, although 2nd clip can be a bit stressful. | 15m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ D
At right end of Stuff Wall. Up through chossy cave then veer left. FA: Gary Hamilton & Shane Hirst, 2001 | 7m, 2 | |||
15 | ★ Sure shot
3m right of J. Another a little gem! Thin slab then over bulge. 3 BRs to single RB. FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002 | 6m, 3 | |||
16 | Pow
2m right of K. Dirty slab. 2 BRs to shared single RB with 'K'. FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002 | 7m | |||
16 | ★ The maestro
Start as for SM. Straight up left side of obvious large bulging block. 3 RBs (last needs long runner) to double BB. FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2002 | 10m, 3 | |||
15 | ★★ The Right Catalyst
Start as for Catalyst, but instead of going left, follow the right hand crack to the top. A gutsy little lead. Bring second up to clean from tree. FA: Lee Ogley, Sep 2023 | 12m | |||
15 | ★ Drunken Praying Mantis style
4m right of TLG. Wandery and brittle, take care. Veer right toward arete then up left to belay. 3 BRs to double BB. FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2000 | 3 | |||
15 | ★ Somethings got to give
Down left below blunt arete. Up around bulge and up final dirty ramp / slab. 3 RBs to double BB. FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2001 | 10m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Gratitude
4m left of V. Juggy. Up wall and slab to finish. Traverse right 3m to DRB lower offs as for V. FA: Shane Hirst & Dana Cooper, 2001 | 12m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Gordo's Climb
3m left of W. Straight up wall and slab above, traverse right to belay as for V / W. 3 BRs. FA: Gordon Porter, 2002 | 12m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ X
2m left of GC, and just right of damp crack. Straight up steep slab passing 3 rusty BRs. FA: Kye Riddington, 1999 | 4 | |||
Woy Woy The Fort Grave yard | |||||
V0 | ★ Yaccoppo
| ||||
V0 | ★ Bat country
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Potato boulder | |||||
V0 | ★★ Smelt it dealt
| ||||
V0 | ★ Josh's arete
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Backgammon table | |||||
V0 | ★ Plunger
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Wato's boulder | |||||
V0 | ★★★ Naughty goodness
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Pit lane | |||||
V0 | ★ Zombie man
FA: Guy Koller, 2004 | ||||
V0 | ★ Hats off
| ||||
V0 | ★★ Sauce eclair
| ||||
V0 | Jerry
| ||||
Woy Woy The Fort Brain area | |||||
V0 | ★★ The Spine
| ||||
Wondabyne Wondabyne East | |||||
15 | Excrescense
The crack 20m right of 'Granuous'. FA: P. Stallard & S. O'Brien, 1977 | 18m | |||
Wondabyne Wondabyne Mainline | |||||
16 | Spite
Left of windblown cave below large bulging wall. Strenuous. Up good crack and chossy crack to small cave. Over roof (thin) and up to Xanthorrhoea. Wander up the chimney behind. FA: S. Hoy, 1976 | 14m | |||
15 | Brooce
8m right of 'Farewell Miriam'. Up to chossy break in overhang, then move left 2m and up smaller weakness. Up then join traverse of 'Farewell Miriam'. FA: S. Hoy & P. Stallard, 1976 | 18m | |||
15 | ★ 40th Anniversary Les Paul
Start 2m right of Gibson. Mantle lower ledges and up to corner to good pro in orange crack. Avoid football size loose blocks at top of corner, lay away flake and over roof to the right. Massive horizontal branch belay. FA: Graham Dowden & Angus M, 24 Sep 2016 | 6m | |||
Wondabyne Wondabyne North | |||||
16 M2 | The Odyssey
On rock 5m left of 'Branches of the Almighty'. Hand traverse left to the lower ledge on the arete. Up to next ledge. Traverse right to the base of the thin crack in the centre of the wall. Aid up this until it widens, then free to top. FA: P. Stalllard, 1977 | 28m | |||
16 | ★★ Fragile
FA: P. Stallard, S. O'Brien & S. Hoy, 1976 | 30m | |||
15 | Nook
The central crack in the 3 sided square gully. FA: P. Stallard, S. Hoy & S. O'Brien, 1976 | 8m | |||
The Bluffs Right Bluff High Wall | |||||
16 | ★★ Bourbon Street
The main abseil corner. Lovely route up a corner crack at the transition of the two walls. Can also be led on gear FA: paul, 2003 | 25m | |||
Joll's Bridge Lower cliffline | |||||
16 | King Kong
Pump up those beginners. Starts 2m L of Wilde Thing. Reach your way up through the blocks round top and up passing tree to top. FA: Nat Nichols & Sussie Early, 1993 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Chocolate Coated Parents
The trad corner, often dirty, now has lower offs | 12m | |||
16 | I'll ask her
Start at shallow corner just left of Texas. Up to under roof then head left onto ledge and climb short corner to finish. | 20m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ River Rat
Cams and wires. The diagonal seam/weakness 1.5m L of FOW. Trend L up cracks to finish at L end of cave. Belay in back of cave. Rap off rings. FA: paul riviere & ross linsley, 1993 | 12m |