Showing all 23 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bollocks wall | |||||
23 | ★★★ Time is the enemy
A classic trad line ruined by a line of bolts and an anchor set too low. Small but bomber gear the whole way, do your best to ignore the bolts until this line is restored. Keep going past the anchor to the single hanger at the end of the good rock, then back-jump to the anchor to clean Set: Simmo, Sep 2021 | 14m, 9 | |||
Butt Muncher Buttress | |||||
23 | ★ Chronic Myopia
Under development. Will be bolted. For now it's easy to top rope using various anchors at the top. Not as fun to climb as Butt Muncher but still good. Will have some friable holds until it gets more traffic. Consistent climbing to a tricky finish. FA: Simmo, 25 Nov 2020 | ||||
Bombo Boulders | |||||
V4 | ★★ Heliopause
A good problem that forces the use of a high heel hook. Stay away from the block to the right, and the cracks to the left! Find the hidden right hand around the corner and slap up that blunt left arete. | 4m | |||
V3 | Don't touch the limpets
Sit start move straight up the crack to top out. No bridging on the right hand side wall. FA: Matt Herbert, 24 Apr 2016 | 3m | |||
V3 | The mightiest prow in the Southern Hemisphere
Work up the slightly overhanging prow on cool pockets. FA: Tim Booth, 6 Aug 2022 | ||||
V4 | ★★ S-crack
Starting on right hand arete move up through middle of wall to top following s looking crack. Wall on the left not in and ledge to right of top is out. FA: Hayden davey, 29 Mar 2020 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Hidden treasure sit start
Sit start on the LH side, work your way around to the RH starting side pull of the stand start and then up as per normal. FA: Tim Booth, 6 Aug 2022 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ In Deep
Sit start on right side of face. Move straight up the wall to committing top. Big span will help... FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Right Break
Sit start low on centre face. Move straight up to another committing move for the top. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Spring Tide
Sit start below the break on crimps. Move up via good holds to a committing move for the top. FA: Yianni Barthelmess & Jack Folkes, 2013 | 4m | |||
V4 | Sunset solution
Sit start matched in upside down 7 shaped hold, head straight up via edges on face, arete cracks either side are out. Match the top lip, step left and walk out for a safe top out. Jaime Williams (FA) FA: Jaime Williams, 4 Jun 2022 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Crimp Pimp
Low match in deep crack. Simple left right motions up with pad / half pad crimp, good grip. Finish at the two jugs on left and right of the corner. Careful of surrounding rocks. FA: Aiden Wingate, 31 Aug 2019 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Commit To The Cross
In the clearing before the Quarry opening, on the right side of Crimp Pimp. Almost sit start, left and right on either corners crimps (very poor). Up between the two arrêts, then crossing into the second right arrêts jug to finish. FA: Aiden Wingate, 31 Aug 2019 | 4m | |||
Ocean Avenue | |||||
V4 | Berts Vert
Next to cliff face, nice pretty views of the head land. Sit start on the left of face, small technical traverse to right side climb up and finish on the top far top left jug. Lots of small crimps, good for technique practice and strength. Avoid using foot holds on the right side of the face, the shit feet make it harder. Careful topping with loose rock and a cliff drop below you. FA: Aiden Wingate, 31 Aug 2019 | 3m | |||
Closed Sewerage Treatment Plant | |||||
23 | Hyper Active Child
'What's wrong with a mind of my own'. - Dead Kennedys. For those runts without hte genetic gift of reach or crankability, this climb could possibly feel quite hard. HA, HA, HA, (1) The next groove along from MR more of a face climbing problem than a crank exercise FA: Ralph & Robertson | 6m | |||
23 | Spread 'em
Another featureless groove by Claw packed with fixed runners, all three of them. Done complete from innovation to degradation in less than an hour or so, basically a stemming problem. (1). The groove 3 meters right of PS. FA: Claw | 10m | |||
23 | Ball and All
'K.C. sux, 3st, & peg scar' are the highlights of this climb. There are also two fixed wires to be found in the groove, one is a Moorhead and the other is a turd, these two pieces of pro plus the associated graffiti make this climb a real classic, worth doing even if you hate the sight of it. (1) The groove ten metres right of PS. FA: Graeme Hill & Chunder | 25m | |||
23/24 | Fuckbars
'Think of a gross name Chunder?' - 'Fuckbars, mate.' Another absolute classic of the area, not too hard but not real easy. It has plenty of scope for fighting with the pro and for making quick progress while doing so. (1) The crack and groove twenty metres right of RMIV. Up the crack thin laybacking to start then jamming, the crux is getting into the jam crack where good progress can be made to the ledge on the left. FA: Graeme Hill & Chunder | 25m | |||
22/23 | Sid Snot
The classic layback pump out of the area cos it's the only one ear. Good climbing up a steep corner crack and just when you thought you have had it - BLAMMO? - up comes a good rest. (1) The next crack along from Sex, as the crack degenerates into worthlessness cut out right to get into the wide top chimney. FA: Graeme Hill | 25m | |||
23/24 | Snakey Turds
Not a bad little 1 1/4" chimney, a very hard to jam size that required an extensive tape job on the arse to protect iti from abrasion. This crack is made for 1 1/2" friends and is a bad fit for twos so gather up as many as you can and suck on it. (1) The well defined crack to the right of AS. The chossy stuff at the top is avoided by easy climbing in the left groove. FA: Graeme Hill | 25m | |||
23 | Bloody Road To Death
A good face climb with a long reach that can't be very easily cranked out. Two bolts protect the initial easy face and a good 'TURD' can be used to protect the crack passage. This climb is a must for runts to throw themselves at, who knows you might even find a way up at only grade 18. (1) The blank looking wall to the right of EMP with the 3 top bolts in it.' Rap off the bolt as for the previous climb, remember CLAW put this bolt in so don't trust it it could be fatal... FA: Moorhead/Claw & Graeme Hill | 15m | |||
23 | Dead
Not much is known about this route except tha Muir wrote 'DEAD' at the bottom of it and included an arrow to show you just what is dead, which turned out to be a tree or hunk of lantanna. The route itself appears to be a badly cleaned out Rod Young Ant Prehn crack that looks slightly sus in the solidarity department. To put it another way, I am trying to tell you that the route is probably the second biggest lump of shit at the quarry; the first being Ants Turn On Top. (1) The next obvious open pile of crap to the right of B. FA: Any Prehn & Rod Young | 20m | |||
23 | Sweet Things
The name is sickening though the climb doesn't look too bad. Another Ant Prehn Rod Young mix of talents in creating the worthless. The crux is laybacking the drill holes at the top, the climb should provide you with as much excitement as a dead rat in your jockstrap. (1) the crack to the right of D. FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young | 20m |
Showing all 23 routes.