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Bombo Boulders

Fixed Gear: Sulfide stress cracking affected area

After two bolt (likely 304 glue ins) failure on Butt Mucher (22) in 2020, investigation by D. Reeve (QLD) appears consistent with SSC or SCC.

Generic information from UIAA here - https://www.theuiaa.org/documents/safety/UIAA-WARNING-ABOUT-CLIMBING-ANCHORS-FAILURES_Dec15.pdf

If you have information on route hardware (eg. installation date, bolt/material type, manufacturer) please add it to the relevant route description.

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago
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Summary

Boulders boulders boulders

Description

Vast amount of boulders of high quality Basalt bouldering ( That can be found around the quarry. potential for more first ascents.

Access issues

Public land please be respectful!

Approach

Park at bombo beach carpark and wandering past the sewer plan to the main quarry. Most of the Boulders are located on the outer sea wall.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The long and broken low wall in the North East separating the quarry from the ocean. Bouldering. Routes listed Left to Right (i.e. North to South).

Tend left from the crack where the better jugs are.

Stick with the crack and just right of.

Standing start, straight up the corner.

FA: David Malins, 11 Jul 2014

Contrived harder variant. Use the corner crack only, no sides, stick it in deep!

sit start, up right hand crack

FA: David Malins, 11 Jul 2014

A good problem that forces the use of a high heel hook. Stay away from the block to the right, and the cracks to the left! Find the hidden right hand around the corner and slap up that blunt left arete.

Sit start move straight up the crack to top out. No bridging on the right hand side wall.

FA: Matt Herbert, 24 Apr 2016

Sit start on the left, traverse along crack to the right and then straight up and out. Don't touch the floor!

FA: 24 Apr 2016

Starting on right hand arete move up through middle of wall to top following s looking crack. Wall on the left not in and ledge to right of top is out.

FA: Hayden davey, 29 Mar 2020

Sit start on right side of face. Move straight up the wall to committing top. Big span will help...

FA: Jack Folkes, 26 Sep 2013

Dyno variation to In Deep. From the obvious jug to top. Big and committing.

Temptation from above, death from below.

Easy corner variant to help beginners. Start at undercling.

Tricky section moving through the V3.

Sit start low on centre face. Move up and left around vague arete to committing move for the top. No bridging on wall to the left.

FA: Yianni Barthelmess, 26 Sep 2013

Sit start low on centre face. Move straight up to another committing move for the top.

FA: Jack Folkes, 26 Sep 2013

Straight up face. Watch out for some loose blocks on the left!

Closed

* This route is confirmed destroyed (the whole pillar collapsed!)

The East-West wall in the middle of the quarry, where the main track passes through. Routes listed Left to Right, i.e. West to East to the sea.

Sit start below the break on crimps. Move up via good holds to a committing move for the top.

FA: Yianni Barthelmess & Jack Folkes, 26 Sep 2013

Low match in deep crack. Simple left right motions up with pad / half pad crimp, good grip. Finish at the two jugs on left and right of the corner. Careful of surrounding rocks.

FA: Aiden Wingate, 31 Aug 2019

(1) Up the tallest cleanest looking central crack in the wall.

FA: Chunder, Muir & Graeme Hill

In the clearing before the Quarry opening, on the right side of Crimp Pimp. Almost sit start, left and right on either corners crimps (very poor). Up between the two arrêts, then crossing into the second right arrêts jug to finish.

FA: Aiden Wingate, 31 Aug 2019

A fun bouncy pillar on solid jugs. Either stretchy or jumpy, depending on your style (and height).

A pikers variant exists following the big vertical crack to the adjacent right pillar. Subtract 5 grades!

May have been top-roped by AA in the old days (TBC).

FFA: Murray, 28 May 2020

The first of the three main cracks on this compact little wall. A stiff little lay back crack with not many snails.

(1) Up the stiff little layback crack taking care not to doom to many little blue snails to their deaths when they try to attack you.

FA: Chunder & Graeme Hill

The next one along the line, a sort of open corner finger lock crack, good protection and interesting little blue snails.

(1) The open corner climbed on nasty flared little blue snails.

Arete climbing, nice holds when you need them and flows well. Slightly technical in places.

Note: The base of the climb can get very slippery after rough seas, recommend clipping first bolt from the ledge to stop you/belayer slipping out to sea.

FA: Murray, 28 May 2020

The left crack, two metres right of STEB. This climb ascends a pair of cracks in a wall, crossing from the right crack to the left at the start and back to the right crack at the top.

(1) Up criss-crossing like a mad man.

FA: Chunder & Graeme Hill

Good for practising your squeeze and wrapping yourself to rock.

Good for practising your fist jams.

Layback up the features.

Good for practising your stemming, or Sasuke 4th Stage.

Good for practising your hand jams

The Southernmost sea wall. To the right of the access track as you first come in to the quarry.

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