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Fixed Gear: Sulfide stress cracking affected area

After two bolt (likely 304 glue ins) failure on Butt Mucher (22) in 2020, investigation by D. Reeve (QLD) appears consistent with SSC or SCC.

Generic information from UIAA here - https://www.theuiaa.org/documents/safety/UIAA-WARNING-ABOUT-CLIMBING-ANCHORS-FAILURES_Dec15.pdf

If you have information on route hardware (eg. installation date, bolt/material type, manufacturer) please add it to the relevant route description.

See warning details and discuss

Created 8 months ago
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Description

The main headland that can be seen when speeding down to Nowra.

Access issues inherited from Bombo Quarry

The Southern areas of the quarry including the Sewerage Treatment Plant (STP) are owned by Sydney Water, with the Eastern area of this leased to Kiama council for public recreational use. The Northern section is owned by the Department of Environment, Industry and Planning, also for recreation use. The bulk portion of the quarry and climbable areas are covered by a State Heritage conservation order (Ref: #177).

While the area is well used by locals and tourists, there is no official opinion on climbing (??), and new routes should be climbed with due discretion and regard for public presence and the State Heritage listing.

Approach

walk past the dog agility equipment the look for a fisho's path down the embankment.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Next to cliff face, nice pretty views of the head land. Sit start on the left of face, small technical traverse to right side climb up and finish on the top far top left jug. Lots of small crimps, good for technique practice and strength. Avoid using foot holds on the right side of the face, the shit feet make it harder. Careful topping with loose rock and a cliff drop below you.

FA: Aiden Wingate, 31 Aug 2019

What a bloody awful name for such a fine route. To get to this baby, walk around the reef on the headland looking for a large pillar with a couple of cracks splitting it up the sides, this route is the right crack up the biggest pillar.

(1) Up the crack watch out for seagull shit on some of the ledges.

At the top walk back as many meters as the rope length allows. Find a bush to tie onto or do what D Radical Thomas did: sit on the grass dig your heals in and hope the second doesn't fall off and take you with him. Thus you should see why we sent Dave up first. Thats what I call trad climbing!

FA: D.Jaws Three, Thomas, Muir & Graeme Hill

10 metres further around the headland. The next detached pillar. Climb crack until small roof. Round roof on right to loose top.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2013

The Obvious Arete seen from the lookout. A single rack should be fine. Be cautious of loose rock.

FA: Mitchell Stewart & Greer Knight, 11 May 2020

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