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White Whale

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Summary

Weathered sandstone under a ruined lighthouse.

Description

Very fun climbing on some great rock. DO NOT CLIMB HERE IN VAGUELY BAD WEATHER!!! It is RIGHT next to the water on a calm day... Some of the landings around Crab Nebula will get wet unless the sea is like glass.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

From the entrance to the Park, continue along Jervis Bay Road. Take a right onto Wreck Bay Road, then take a left onto Stoney Creek Road. Follow signs for "Historic Lighthouse".

From the car park, head down the gated service track and follow it around to the right. The track will turn sharp right but head straight into the scrub (don't fall off the cliff...) and follow the fisherman's decent track down the gulley and onto the rock platform. Turn left and head North to get to all the problems.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

History

History timeline chart

Discovered by George Fieg with only Moby Dick V12 climbed/recorded/remembered. Mentioned in conversation with CWP, spent months tracking George down to eventually get the details.

Routes

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Grade Route

Rock looks poor. Yet after laps, 0 breakages. Committed moves on big holds. Bring spare skin this rock will grip to your bones. The first boulder you come to on the platform. Begging to be climbed. 3 stars for positioning and outlook. Moves are great fun. Just the quality question in the back of your mind keeping it fun

FA: jarvis strand

Sit start sharp holds. Will become a classic line on science boulder for sure.

Easy way to the top. just right of arete. Again rock looks poor quality, After testing rock scientifically by climbing, 0 breakages have occurred. This result is not expected after further tests.

FA: jess roden

Traverse left to right. The top of the boulder is not allowed. Rubbish feet, ok hands.

Undercut dyno. Good hands (very wide and low though...), rubbish feet.

FA: Brett H, 28 Jan 2017

Sit start left hand on big undercut and right on sidepull/crack. Move up and top out left side of small nose.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2 Apr 2014

Sit start with both hands in the crack. Move up and top out in small scoop.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2 Apr 2014

Stand-start with LH on sidepull and RH on undercling. Move up and exit left.

FA: Sam Healy, Jan 2022

Stand start on a flat left hand edge and a low right hand pocket. Smear feet and move up dynamically then up again and exit left.

FA: Sam Healy, Jan 2022

Starting on the slopey rail, move up to the big jug hole. Tackle the roof and top out without shitting your pants. Bring pads and spotters... Possibly double digits. Various links abound.

Stand start and follow the rail up and left. Top out before the roof. Bring pads and spotters.

FA: Jack Folkes, 28 May 2017

Sit start to the right and follow the prow out and around the roof. Bring plenty of pads and spotters.

FA: zachary vertrees, 4 Oct 2020

Sit start on wide sidepulls at far right, topping out high on the left as for Shepard's Pie.

Sit start on wide sidepulls. Head straight up and top out onto the big slab. Use caution with the flake over the lip.

Sit start matching on the lowest rail and up through the slopey features and the slab.

Sit start on good holds. Move up and left to a big top out on the high slab.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2 Apr 2014

Start as for About to Take on Water and traverse left, mantling onto the slab using the distinctive double pockets as for Davis.

Sit start from flat jug. Up through big holds to high top out.

Compression left of the roof.

Crouch start on the slopey ramp and traverse left from under the roof. Move around the lip and traverse back right on good holds. Top out as for "Crab Nebula".

FA: Jack Folkes, 13 May 2014

Crouch start on the slopey ramp and take on the roof on the left side. Couple of pads and a large tarp suggested! There is a 2ft diameter pool under the roof!

Dan Stephenson

FA: Jack Folkes, 13 May 2014

Sit start on good holds down to the left, move up and right through the roof, then up arête to top out.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Dec 2021

Nice warm up. Start as for Belly of the Whale and traverse left, topping out as for About to Take on Water.

Sit start on the arete. Top out to the left.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2 Jul 2014

Stand start. LH juggy gaston or flat crimp, RH undercling. Go up a few moves and head left on good holds after the mega jug. *Big boulder at the base has tipped over as of May 2022, considerably changing the start.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Dec 2021

Sleep Orca exiting direct via a committing throw. Absolute classic.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Dec 2021

Start low on flat edge and big pinch. Do a few moves and exit to the lip as early as possible. OG beta didn't use the pocket but probably same grade if you need to use it.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Dec 2021

Low start down in hole with RF up high. Follow slopey shelf and arete up and left to top out. Bad landing, at least 2 pads recommended.

FA: Jack Folkes, 6 Jul 2014

Sit start on the crimpy rail. Move up via slopey arete to top out to the left over the hole.

FA: Jack Folkes, 6 Jul 2014

Sit start on big jug. Move straight up via both aretes to top out. Also the quickest way back down.

FA: Jack Folkes, 6 Jul 2014

Start with LH on sloper, RH on pocket/pinch and RF on jug out right. Move up and left via small crimps. Bad landing, at least 2 pads recommended. Weird to grade.

Start with LH on pocket/pinch and RH around the arete on pocket, heel hook up high and move up the arete. Bad landing, at least 2 pads recommended.

FA: Jack Folkes, 6 Jul 2014

Only white when it's sunny... Stand start on shallow pockets.

FA: Jack Folkes, 28 May 2017

Sit start on the edge of the block and climb the arete on it's left side.

FA: Jack Folkes, 6 Jul 2014

Awkward sit start from very low hold, then up.

10m of roof climbing on pockets and pinches. Starts back left of cave, head out towards the centre of the cave mouth.

FA: George Fieg

Sit start from low juggy undercling and make a powerful move up, from where the difficulty eases.

There are probably a couple of lines to go on this face on small pockets.

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