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Moe's

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Summary

Jumbled seaside cliffline.

Description

Sandstone seaside cliff line on a East facing wave platform. Popular for rock fishing. NOT recommended during large seas!

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

From the entrance to the Park, continue along Jervis Bay Road. Take a right onto Wreck Bay Road, then take a left onto Stoney Creek Road. Follow signs for Moe's Rock.

From the car park, follow the short track to the beach/rocks and then turn right and head South along the platform. About 150m away is the first sector (Suicidal Jack Ledge). Keep following the cliffline/boulders South to reach the others. "Moe's Rock" itself is a standalone boulder above and away from the cliff line.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The quick way up and the quick way down. Handy for negotiating your way around.

Stand start at the arete on undercling. Head up to join in to Close Call at the hole.

FA: Jack Folkes, 8 Dec 2018

Stand start on the ledge/corner. Head up and left to top out near the arete.

FA: Jack Folkes, 8 Dec 2018

Stand start and up the corner. Wearing of vans is optional.

FA: daryl jones, 8 Dec 2018

Straight up. Wall to the left is not in.

Up the round section. Good to have a second mat for the little ledge just off the ground.

Fun stuff. Avoid the loose by avoiding the right.

Easy climb with poor rock quality.

Sit start with opposing side pulls. Move straight up to top out. FA done without pad or shoes in between waves crashing onto the platform...

FA: Jack Folkes, 27 May 2014

Sit start under roof. Big move out and mantle. Humping optional.

FA: Some bloke who can't dyno for shit., 9 Jun 2019

Stand start in the groove, head straight up via good hole.

FA: Jack Folkes, 9 Jun 2019

Stand start on undercling. Dyno up and left to good holds.

FA: Jack Folkes, 9 Jun 2019

Sit start as far left on the ramp as possible. Traverse the ramp up and right until you can step off or top out.

FA: Jack Folkes, 27 May 2014

Stand start on the ledge under the arete. Head out right and then big moves up the groove to top out.

FA: Jack Folkes, 8 Dec 2018

Stand start on the good crimps, power up to the crack and then thrutch your way to the top.

FA: some bloke without a hat, 8 Dec 2018

The terrifying corner. Fa involved no hands stemming to reach for the top.....

FA: Hugh Harrison, 8 Dec 2018

The wall left of the corner. Stand start on good sidepull, head straight up via bad slopers to committing last moves.

FA: Jack Folkes, 9 Jun 2019

Stand start on the ledge, same as $1.36 trend right following the good edges. Watch your back.

FA: daryl jones, 8 Dec 2018

Stand start on the ledge, head straight up with a hint of left.

FA: daryl jones, 8 Dec 2018

Sit start on bulge arete, LH slopey side pull and RH bad slopey pocket. Make compression moves up, then left hand to jug and easy top out.

Stand start matched on pocket. Big move to jug then easy top out

Stand start matched on big pocket. Big move up with Lh to crimp, RH to slopey side pull, then again to dodgy looking hold.

Sit start on bulgy jug. Make some fun moves to mount the saddle, then delicate moves to top out.

FA: bronte doery

Burly, big moves, hard underclings. 10+

Riverbed-esque traverse from back left of cave. 9ish?

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