Routes as trad in Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Searching in:

Route filters:

Ascent filters:


Other filters:

  • Descent
  • Aspect
  • Condition
  • Steepness
  • Style
  • Rock type
  • Walk in angle
  • Water access
  • Walk in time
  • Legality
  • Weather
Sort by: Bulk edit (max 100)

Showing 1 - 100 out of 869 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Wollongong Stanwell Tops Hargraves Wall
17 Cosmic Punk

On main wall at mouth of walk down gully, directly opposite 'Crakarett'. Starts at the sandy right facing flake.

Trad 8m
14 Dances With Wolves

5m R of CP at corner crack formed by right side of large block. Layback up corner then finish up short wall past RB. Belay off trees.

FA: Chris Sykes & Luke Wilmott, 1993

Mixed trad 8m, 1
18 Kisses the Rock

2m R of LF. Crack line weakness with two high ringbolts. Finger and hand-sized cams required in lower half.

FA: John Jakimysyszyn & Chris Wilmott, 1993

Mixed trad 9m, 2
19 Blow Hole

1m right of KTR. Trad protected wall climbing with cams in horizontals. No bolts!

FA: Chris Willmott & John Jakimyszyn, 1993

Trad 11m
14 Interdependence

Junk trad on crap rock. Some sort of corner to ramp. Forget it! Start 6m of NN

Trad 9m
Wollongong Stanwell Tops The Lookout
18 North Crack

Good trad route that got partially retro-bolted. The undercut fused crack on right side of wall, with a U bolt and old rusty carrot to belay off. Up crack (placing trad and ignoring retrobolt on right wall) to right side of cave. Finish up wide crack protected by fist sized cams. Belay off tree way back on other side of chimney gully.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

Trad 13m
17 Sunday the 13th

One of the best splitter cracks in the region. Starts 2m left of North Crack - belay off single U bolt to the left of the crack. Great handcrack to small cave, take a breather then continue up perfect splitter above to monster belay tree right on top. If you are a sport-climbing wuss you can actually climb this entire route clipping the bolts on the route to the left.

FA: Chris Wilmott, 1992

Trad 13m
18 All Hands on Deck

2m left of Sunday the 13th. Little ramp to cave. Wall above cave. Looks very badly protected - was this actually only a top-rope route?

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

Trad 10m
14 Bliss

Start is reached by scrambling down from wide ledge at south end of cliff. Traverse across pocketed wall and finish up wide flake crack.

FA: Chris Wilmott & John Jakimyszyn, 1993

Trad 8m
Wollongong Stanwell Tops Stonehaven
16 Pretty Ditty

A couple of metres left of Hanko, hands to fists crack, marginal gear to get through the sandy bulge. Rap off tree sapling or potentially top out.

FA: Ryan L, Sep 2020

Trad 8m
15 Syko

The corner crack.

FA: Chris Sykes & Chris Wilmont, 1993

Trad 15m
10 Shoulders

On ledge above start of Syko. Crack, then chimney.

FA: Chris Sykes & Chris Wilmott, 1993

Trad 5m
16 Carpeted Green

11m right of Shoulders. Arete.

FA: Chris Wilmott & John Jakimyszyn, 1993

Trad 5m
14 Bugs

2m right of Carpeted Green. Wall and crack.

FA: Chris Wilmott & John Jakimyszyn, 1993

Trad 5m
15 Life's Like That

Short corner to roof. Left to wide crack, then scramble. Needs lower-off bolts.

FA: Chris Wilmott & Mark Parkinson, 1995

Trad 12m
20 Daniel

A homage to the original Stanwell Tops crusher. Layback the bottom corner into the crack and jam your way to glory. The crack takes as many small to medium cams as you can plug. Fixed anchors at top of crack. A very new route so give it a brush.

FA: pearce thomas, 16 Dec 2018

Trad 15m
19 Mulberry Man

Crack trad line 1 metre to the left of Pole Dance. Carefully up offwidth to crack and good pro. Cruise up to finger crack in corner and finish at the anchors for PoleDance. Takes big cams down low and small to med cams + wires all the way to the top. Give it a brush if you get on it

FA: pearce thomas, Dec 2018

Trad 18m
18 The Waradagi Tree

Crack trad line 1 metre to the right of Pole Dance. Start just to the right of PoleDance, clip first 3 bolts of PD to gain crack. Solid jams and good stances up through rooflet then finish as for PD. Takes bigger cams all the way, Still needs bushing, especially down low. Try to resist the temptation to clip those bolts. Was named after the huge Eucalypt in the car park

FA: pearce thomas, Dec 2018

Mixed trad 18m, 3
21 Shutdown Funk

Sweet mixed line up the corner starting at crack with some nut placements, then bolts on the overhanging headwall. Headwall has great rock and a couple of funky moves.

Set by iBlom & Leo Stanners, May 2018

FA: Leo Stanners, May 2018

Mixed trad 15m, 5
16 Izaac's Corner

The corner crack. On trad gear.

FA: iBlom, 23 Sep 2018

Trad 12m
15 Chocolate Crackles

Corner crack, needs a brush but otherwise good climb.

FA: Finn Irving-Dent, 28 Nov 2019

Trad 13m
18 Send Down the Clowns

5m right of One Step in the Clouds. Four BRs. Use double ropes to avoid rope drag. Start on ledge at left end of overhang to right of first BR. Gain wall. Up wall to small ledge leading right to arete and little corner. Up arete.

FA: Chris Wilmott & Roger Bourne, 1993

Mixed trad 21m, 4
17 Unforgiven

2m right of Zakuski. Crack with bushes. Left at top through bushes. Lots of bushes on this one.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

Trad 17m
14 Pierce liked it better 15 years ago

Corner crack to in between Frankensqueak and Master Beta. Nice crack climbing and stemming, on small foot holds in parts, then a dirty adventure to top out. Take some slings to use the trees at the top as pro. If you're just getting into Trad, this is a great climb to test your skills on, loads of bomber placements. Walk 2m back from the top for a bomber tree to belay off. If anyone feels like putting top anchors in, go for it.

FA: Leo Stanners, 30 Dec 2019

Trad 12m
15 Discount Sushi

Corner climbing with a final traverse to the anchors of 'Bring Out The Chimp'.

FA: Ryan L & Shauno, 23 Dec 2019

Trad 14m
Wollongong Wodi Wodi Crag
19 M0 Fade to Grey

There is at least one carrot bolt on a mossy wall right of large roofs. This is probably that route. From Ant Harris "This was one of my first excursions in the Illawarra region. We bolted on lead ground-up in a good old fashioned nightmare kind of way. We conservatively graded it 19MO. To be honest I dont think its worth cleaning or retro bolting or even remembering."

FA: Brian Forbes & Ant Harris, 1984

17 Chipped Focus Puller

2/3rd of a crack climb with ledge and then minor overhang and vertical wall from ledge (crux). Look for the Buddha in the cave. Don't trust the two dodgy ringbolts, use tree for belay. Accidentally reclaimed as a new route in 2010 and called Douggie Gone by Ryan Godlewski.

FA: Ant Harris & Mick Kirby, 1995

Trad 8m
14 Miner Work

15m right of Deb Stoops to Conquer is a slabby right facing arete, with a bunch of subtle chipped holds at ground level (all can be ignored at same grade). Tricky little start to good medium cam break, then mantle onto ledge (vital shallow finger sized cam). Boldly smear layaway up the slabby upper arete section. Tree belay well back (there used to be bolts but they have been chopped)

FA: First recorded lead ascent - Neil Monteith, 2013

Trad 10m
Wollongong Coalcliff South Ships Prow
21 Daddy Crack

Quality trad. Will probably only be repeated by most climbers on top-rope. Pity, as the gear is bomber. Rap from far northern ringbolts (2m right of small cave with FHs) to double ring belay on wall above undercut ledge (and feet on huge death block). Up splitter crack, which opens and closes for a few metres then right onto slab. Cams in pockets for a few metres then through steep section (seeps after rain) and final hard move up seam crack. Hand traverse left a few moves to mantle up to ledge. Leave a sling or rap rope on the lip of the ledge as a runner when you rap down.

FA: Monty Curtis, 12 Mar 2016

Trad 25m
20 Captain Cheese

Steep corner crack on trad with bolted belays. Very airy! Both pitches can be combined into one mega pitch if you bring enough trad. To descend fix rap rope to double u-bolts in large boulder on top of cliff. Rap down the corner (which is what you are climbing up). At base of corner keep rapping down overhung arete to semi-hanging belay in white sandy scoop (shared pitch 2 belay with Titanical). It is also possible to extend top rap anchor with long slings and rap in on doubled ropes and pull them afterwards for mega commitment factor.

  1. 13m (20) Traverse directly right from belay past u-bolt to overhung corner crack (u-bolt). Climb the very overhung right side of corner on bubbly pockets, placing medium/large cams in horizontals. When a break finally appears on the left wall step over to it and traverse across to double u-bolt hanging belay on arete (shared anchor with Titanical).

  2. 20m (17) Very exposed! Straight up to roof and corner crack, that starts wide and thins quickly. Stem up this with occasional ledges to top. This pitch is very well protected on trad - take cams from #4 to #0.25 thin finger size. Belay well back on double u-bolts in boulder.

FA: Neil Monteith (P1) & Joe the American (P2), 2 Mar 2015

Mixed trad 33m, 2, 2
23 Bomber Bar

Rap from Titanical rap station over the southern cliff, use access rungs to move up past big (wet) boulder and onto ledge, you will find a 2 ring bolt belay for this route, which starts left of the belay up an obvious orange flake. Take care to place a decent purple camalot (0.5) before the first crimpy moves (about 5m off the deck). The rest of the gear is bomber, slightly spaced. Double ring bolt to lower off.

FA: George Broadfoot, 16 May 2017

Trad 20m
23 Carbon footprint

Bolt belay left of Gigatonne. Good gear up wonderful crack to start, then make move right and go up with more good cams. Stay right of vegetated ledge and keep going up until a good ledge where a lower off was considered (22 to here). Instead clip a bolt to your right and keep going up the left side of the turret to the anchor (23).

FA: George Broadfoot, 12 May 2017

Mixed trad 20m, 1
Wollongong Coalcliff South Powerline Lookout
16 Projectile

Two good pitches, first has better rock, second has better position. Mix of rings and gear. Not ideal if 16 is your limit or you're new to placing gear. Good warm up to some of the other mixed routes here.

Set by Chris Wallace

Trad 2
21 Car Crash

#This has been fully rebolted A nice looking orange face with at least two stainless carrots on right side of orange wall. Finishes up small left facing corner (trad). This route starts on the ground in the jungle. There are two new u-bolts at the top. This route is probably a bit bold - it was pre-inspected and top-roped prior to first ascent.

FA: Ant Harris & Phil Allen, 1993

Mixed trad 25m, 2
Wollongong Scarborough Cliffs Whale of a Time Wall
19 Scars Bro

A few funky sections leading to an easy crack. Crack system right of Skysaw. Fix rope for 30m rap from anchors 5m Left of Whale of a Time rap facing out, and up the hill a bit 2 fixed hangers). Rap down and right (facing cliff) to ledge below dirty slab. Up cracks and breaks, where ledges and blocks head out left place gear in average breaks and pull boldly direct over bulge to small horizontal, past bolt (to stop you placing gear in the loose blocks on left), past another small break, then up cracks. Gear, wires, lots of small cams, plus std rack. Double ropes is better for some of the breaks, but not necessary.

Trad 25m
Wollongong Scarborough Cliffs Kenny's Wall
13 Escape the Dungeon

Up the dirty crack in the corner under the rap in. Go straight up navigating the loose holds and a few bushes.

FA: Mungo Skyring & Kezia Eyre, 10 Dec 2017

Trad 12m
Wollongong Scarborough Cliffs Obesity Buttress
18 Le Crevasse

As good as they get on the escapement, layback & jam your way up the obvious corner crack, lower off on the anchors of "Ration The Passion" or continue up. bring doubles in medium cams if you really wanna lace her up.

Trad 18m
17 Stem and Leaf

The good-quality orange face and verdant corner above the pre-traverse belay of Big Fat Fin Slappers. Requires camalots from #0.3 to 1, (double #0.75 is helpful) and a couple of medium nuts.

FA: Chris Wallace & Nick Roach, Jun 2020

Trad 15m
17 Greyblade

Three nice pitches of bridging and laybacking up big crack system, no jamming required. Rap down Big Fat Fin Sl;appers and walk right to thin corner 15m of Big Fat Fin Slappers. Take two #4 cams (large grey camalot) for the laybacks on pitch 2 and 3, or even a 5 (we took 2 of each).

  1. 25m (17)Thin corner then bridge around drummy block to ledge and around roof. At top of 2nd corner, step left onto wall to good red camalot break and wires to protect against nasty pendulum on exit. Wires to hand size gear on this pitch. Double ring belay.

  2. 15m (15) Through roof and up ramp and wide layback crack. Double ring belay.

  3. 20m (17) Past fixed tube chock and up short wide layback crack, Up easy ground on left. At about 15m step right and up scrub to tree (going direct up left is harder).

Trad 60m
Wollongong Scarborough Cliffs Vegemite Wall
21 Tim Tam Jam

Quality sustained climbing at the grade. A good mix of adventure and fun sport climbing. Would be 3 stars if the first pitch was a little less sandy, the second, however, is one to remember! Take a single rack of cams (#0.5 - #3 BD. A #4 is nice but not necessary), roughly 12 draws and a couple slings for the belays (the bolts are a little small).

Pitch 1 - 20m - 21 (Fully bolted): Start off the small boulder up sandy wall and over small rootlet, 15m more leads to a belay in sandy cave (belay bolts on the outside face).

Pitch 2 - 30m - 21 (Mixed Trad): Step right from the belay, traversing the sandy underclings for 4m to the base of excellent hand crack. Blast up this picking up the bolts again once it widens beyond a #4 size and continuing up the continually good climbing all the way to the top.

The jam crack can be easily aided. Overall this route is very well protected. Rap back down to the ground to climb out something else at penthouse (Old Man of Oi is recommended for the full adventure experience)

FA: Chris Wallace & Izzy Bradley, 3 May 2020

Trad 50m, 2
Wollongong Scarface Buttress
25 Avian Abattoir

Weaves around the two monster roof sections on the left end of the cliff, with a lot more sideways climbing than up climbing. This route is mostly bolted, but requires a single set of cams for the upper pitches. A confident second is mandatory - bring prussics. Start about 40m left of Stop the Bolts! at ground level on top of triangular boulder. Look for ringbolts.

  1. 25m (24) Scramble to top of pointy boulder, clip RB then bouldery move up arete to jug and RB. Traverse right along shelf and then up and right across juggy wall to break. Keep traversing 8m right to white rock and easy corner. At top of corner do one tricky move to large ledge under roof and belay bolts. This pitch is all bolts and if you pull on the first bolt it's only grade 18.

  2. 12m (25) Short, steep, funky. Move belay 5m right to end of ledge and 2nd set of belay bolts. Mantle onto shelf and clip RB under intimating roof. Find mega jug under roof and lean back to clip 2nd RB over lip. Now reach to pocket on right and swing onto overhung prow with a hard move to get established onto face. Look for the awesome sneaky kneebar on lip. Up face (RB and #2 Camalot) to belay on mini ledge on right arete. It's possible to combine this pitch into the next pitch.

  3. 17m (23) Left across face on desperate sloping crimps (two RBs) then up to major horizontal. Continue left then up crack through orange steepness to belay ledge at left end of massive roof. Medium and large cams needed for 2nd half of this pitch.

  4. 25m (20) Look Mum - another traverse! Hard move to get past undercut start (RB) then traverse right for 10m (small/medium cams at waist level) above roof then up and right (RB) to vegetation band. Work right (RB) up mossy slab then negotiate plants to small ledge. Finish up slabby wall past 3 RBs to bolt belay in large cave. Exit via last pitch of Stop the Bolts! or Neanderthal.

Set by Neil Monteith, 19 Nov 2013

FA: Neil Monteith (p1, p2 & p4) Paul Thompson (p3), 24 Nov 2013

Trad 84m, 4
21 Shattered Wing

Reachy arete climbing on trad - grade may go up if you're short. May get a first pitch at some stage - at the moment it is a rap in climb out single pitch. From anchors above Kaboom rap down the right side of the arete to belay at base of corner at tiny little footledge ledge and single FH (back it up with muedum cams to the left). Traverse left onto overhung arete (small cams in horizontal) then reachy move up arete (#4 camalot in break) then run it out up lovely orange rock to big pocket (#5 camalot) then fun little pockets and finish left onto the arete to anchors.

FA: Paul Thompson & Neil Monteith, 24 Nov 2013

Trad 14m
24 Neanderthal

Four really good pitches, all different and all on good quality rock. Double set of cams to #3 camalot size and single set of wires. Some slings and double ropes are highly recommended for pitches 1 & 2.

  1. 15m (21) Start up Stop the Bolts! choss for 5m to the base of the corner, then follow line of pockets horizontally left (RB) to vertical seam crack. Up this to small belay ledge under roof and DRB.

  2. 17m (24) Bouldery hug move off the ledge and up to lip of roof (RB), now throw caution to the wind and climb the super exposed roof-flake right (medium cams) then up seam crack to jugs. Traverse left along horizontal then up and left past two RBs to ledge. Easily up corner rightwards to final hand traverse right to higher ledge and DRB belay. Double ropes for this pitch!

  3. 20m (22) Pumpy! Great pockets to start up prow then a couple of reachy moves (2 RBs and small/medium cams) to mantle (RB) onto vegetated ledge. Solve the tricky mini slab above this for 5m to gain much larger ledge and DRB. Communication with belayer is problematic.

  4. 14m (19) Short and fun. Left facing corner and seam crack above. Either lower-off single bolt at top of rock, or topout and bush bash uphill for 5m to DRB - then bush bash to top of cliff.

Set by Neil Monteith, 7 Oct 2013

FA: Neil Monteith (P1 & 4) Paul Thompson (P3), 12 Oct 2013

FA: Neil Monteith & Mike Law (P2), 27 Oct 2013

Trad 66m, 4
22 Stop the Bolts!

An amusing mutl-pitch trad adventure up a very scenic sandstone buttress. The first pitch is a bit scary, the second pitch steep and classy and the top pitches a mix of green and gold. Bring a double rack of cams from #4 Camalot to small finger size, a single set of wires and a couple of slings. You'll also want a single 60m lead rope.

  1. 15m (21) Start at sandy corner 5m to the left of the rap route (when facing the rock). Belay on top of little rock ledge above ferns. Cautiously up sandy flake to base of fused corner. Bridge up this (fiddly but bomber trad) then hand traverse right to belay ledge and DRB belay. Don't forget the bigger cams.

  2. 25m (22) The best pitch of trad near Sydney? From the ledge swing left onto arete to secret hold (and cam placement) then straight up to splitter finger crack. Follow weakness up overhung orange wall, traversing a bit right and then back left to a single bolt. After a cruxy move past the bolt traverse right a metre then another tough move to finish on small ledge on left and DRB belay. If you are keen you could link this into the next pitch.

  3. 15m (21 A0) A bit dirty and scary. Right a metre onto face then up to horizontal. Trend left up dug out crack onto slab and up to DRBs and fixed rope. Hand over hand up this rope past blank slab and vegetated slope (!) to DRB on large terrace.

  4. 25m (20) Up little corner then traverse right along airy horizontal past high RB and right again to little corner. Stem up this to large vegetated cave. Either bush bash right for 3m then wander up easy corner system to arrive at summit rocks or...

  5. 8m (22) Belay in cave at 'hairy rock' DRBs then do the optional finish through juggy roof on left side of cave. Two RBs and tricky mantle out.

FA: Neil Monteith (led all pitches) & Macciza Macpherson, 24 Sep 2013

Mixed trad 88m, 5, 2
21 Bolts are Back!

Bolted arete starting from ground level, directly below the rap route. Sandy breaks make this quite unpleasant unless you scrub in advance on the way down the rap line. Start off rock step above ferns. Up subtle arete then right under roof then up flake crack to small ledge, then up to main ledge. Clip single RB but belay on DRB on the left edge of ledge. #2 Camalot and wires are vital to protect the top bit of this pitch.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick Le Baut, 29 Sep 2013

Mixed trad 15m, 5
22 Terror Talon Traverse

Every cliff needs a girdle. The second pitch on this one is amazing. The first is currently terrifying and needs a bolt to make it less poo in your pants scary. Bring prussics for leader and second. Start on the left end of Main Ledge as for Stop the Bolts! pitch 2.

  1. 30m (22) Up Stop the Bolts! Pitch 2 for 5m until on lip of roof. Traverse left across orange rock, boldly around the subtle arete with feet right on the lip of monster roof and across the middle bit of Neanderthal Pitch 2 past one RB to blocky corner. Traverse left on small pockets (RB) to hanging belay on arete. Lots of medium/large cams and slings needed for this pitch. Rope drag and communication with belayer problematic.

  2. 20m (19) Wild, exposed and well protected. Possibly the best pitch at Scarface. Drop down (?!) a metre into horizontal break (#2 camalot). Traverse the entire length of the wall (2 RBs + medium/large cams in amazing pockets) to left arete (RB), then up this to small ledge and rap rings. Either rap back to ground (33m) or continue up to next ledge with small tree 3m above to 3rd belay on Avian Abattoir.

FA: Neil Monteith (led both pitches) & Paul Thompson, 24 Nov 2013

Mixed trad 55m, 2, 4
25 Gravity

Nice orange rock and cool pockets. The bolted middle line on the main ledge, 4m right of Stop the Bolts! pitch 2. Faint flake weakness up face (3 RBs), then a couple of hand sized cams to finish up fragile flake crack. DRB anchors on the right, shared with Cuckoo Dove Crack. Might be 24 if you're tall.

FA: Neil Monteith, 12 Oct 2013

Mixed trad 15m, 3
20 Cuckoo Dove Crack

Splitter fingercrack on gorgeous orange rock on the right side of the main ledge, 2m right of Gravity. Overhangs at least a metre. Shared lower-off anchors with Gravity.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick Le Baut, 29 Sep 2013

Trad 15m
Wollongong Fear Wall
Simmos Proj No 2 - Closed Stay Off

Closed project stay off.

Simmos Project - Closed Stay off

Closed project stay off.

22 The Monkey Rope

more details to come. rap to the ground from the Two Boys One Skyhook top anchors. You will touch ground right at the foot of the first pitch ! p1 - 20 p2 - 19 p3 - 22 p4 - 20

FA: Simmo & Timmae

Trad 80m, 4
Dagger Hakea Crack (Hakea teretifolia) - Closed Project

Closed project - stay off

Dagger Hakea Crack - Direct

Closed - Stay off

23 Formosa Line aka the Mountain Devil

please stay off.

Named after the abundant Lambertia Formosa shrub, otherwise known as the Mountain Devil, which is common on the Illawarra Escarpment.

The species name of Formosa also comes from the latin word for beautiful, after the striking red flowers. The Mountain Devil also has a horned, hard spikey seed resembling a Devil.

This route reflects the striking, beautiful yet hardened nature of it's namesake.

Pitch 1 is an intricate, steep and technical line up impeccable rock.

Pitch 2 follows an improbable line through the steepest, most overhanging and unlikely headwall on this main section of the crag. While not quite as high quality as pitch 1, 75 m of free hanging exposure and spaced but bomber gear ensure it has it's own merits.

FA: Simmo

TradProject 55m, 2
Closed Project

closed mixed trad project - stay off

Set by Simmo & Max Gordon

Mixed trad 2
21 Two Boys One Storm (Link-up)
1 18
2 21
3 18
4 16
5 20

This line goes all free (no fixed rope shenanigans) and might be the best one on the wall. It is a good alternative finish to Storms at Sea if you find you've bitten off more than you can chew.

Recommended rack (in addition to anchor, belay and rescue gear): ten quickdraws, five bolt hangers and a set of camalots/friends from 0.5 to 4, with doubles of 1 and 2. No nuts needed unless you forget to bring hangers.

  1. 25m (18) As for Storms at Sea and Two Boys One Skyhook

  2. 25m (21) As for Storms at Sea

  3. 15m (18) Head upwards into the corner as for Storms at Sea, but about half way up the crack, step left to reach a carrot. Continue up and left, clip another carrot and then reach a double carrot belay

  4. 20m (16) A tricky move to leave the belay, then continue left into the choss cave. The carrot before you step past the green bush into the cave is the last piece of protection, so don't slip or fall after that. Walk carefully to the other end of the cave to reach a double ring bolt belay.

  5. 15m (20) As for the last pitch of "Two Boys One Skyhook"

FA: Nick Roach & Natalie Tan, 18 Jul 2020

Mixed trad 100m, 14
21 M0 Storms at Sea
1 18
2 21
3 19
4 15 M0
5 17

Harder, scarier and simply much better than "Two Boys One Skyhook". Enjoy challenging moves, good gear, fearful exposure and glorious ocean views on this excellent route. This was the original vision for this wall first conceived back in 2016. Back then it seemed too hard, but with time all things are possible.

Recommended rack (in addition to anchor, belay and rescue gear): ten quickdraws, seven bolt hangers (including the ones you use to set up the fixed rope at the lookout) and a set of camalots/friends from 0.3 to 4, with doubles of 0.5, 1 and 2. No nuts needed unless you forget to bring hangers.

Before you rap down:
Locate the two carrots on the main lookout where the "blue glasses guy" stencil graffiti is. Look in the bush about 5 metres back from there and find the fixing rope. Attach that to the carrots using two of your hangers and throw the end down over the edge in the left corner. You will need this to top out from the last pitch.
  1. 20m (18) As for "Two Boys One Skyhook" but continue past the belay to another pair of rings on the orange face above and to the right.

  2. 20m (21) Clip the carrot and then execute a tricky move (crux) to get up onto the face. Do your second a favour and put in a cam (and leave it in) so they don't have to do the crux without swing-prevention protection. Clip a carrot and step delicately left, then climb upwards (the #4 is useful here). Mantle into the choss break then step left, clip a carrot, then, from the arete, reach up and clip another. Step right onto the orange face again and then continue up to the small belay ledge via a tricky hand traverse.

  3. 15m (19) Head upwards through some greenery and into the corner crack. Go up the crack (be a good citizen and get some more of the dirt out) and step right at the top to follow the crack around the edge of the "Sword of Damocles" block, and, with great relief, gain the double bolt belay.

  4. 10m (15M0) Step left, clip a ring bolt and then reach for the fixed rope. This is two independent strands of static rope tied to two separate bolts and knotted together. Pull yourself up the fixed rope to get past the chossy rock and clip quickdraws into the rope for protection. Don't belay from the double rings that the fixed rope is tied to, but instead step left a few metres to belay at another set of double rings. Make sure the second leaves the fixed rope in a good position to be used by the next party. If the rope needs replacing, please mention that in your ascent report or contact the first ascentionists directly

  5. 15m (17) A tricky move to leave the belay ledge, then clip a ring bolt and climb up to the crack. Go up the crack, put a last piece in nice and high, and then grab the fixed rope that you threw down earlier and pull yourself over the edge to the top. Belay off the carrots. Warning: communication with the second is difficult once you've topped out. Please put the fixed rope back where you found it in the bush behind the lookout

FA: Nick Roach & Natalie Tan, 19 Jul 2020

Mixed trad 80m, 5, 14
Wollongong Mount Keira North Face
17 Great Balls of Boogy Woogy

The 1st crack in descent gullys right hand side wall. Natural protection. Up the crack with an interesting finish. - grovel , grovel

FA: Jon Muir, 1977

Trad 7m
18 Sand Pit Wall Two

The flake just to the left of Sand Pit Wall One. Up the wall.

Sand Pit Wall Exit Lower Offs can be used from this route

FA: Graeme Hill & Steve Bullen, 1982

Trad 5m
16 Grot Heap Groove

The corner about 5 meters past Fizzgig. Up the corner to the top.

FA: Jon Muir, Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn, 2000

Trad 15m
19 Grot Heap Grave

Up GH Groove for 8 metres. Step L on horizontal break to gain finger crack of WG. (GH Groove is now 'off'.)

Trad 15m
12 White Wings

Start at FOY marked chimney. Up and onto ledge on right side of arete. Up the corner past ledges to the top.

FA: Bill James & J Hoy, 2000

Trad 19m
14 Fountain Of Youth

A chimney with an exciting finish. Initialled.

FA: Bill James & James Hoy, 2000

Trad 15m
16 Teno Not Streno

Start in the crack left of Fountain of Youth. Up the line.

FA: James Hoy & Bill James, 2000

Trad 15m
17 Streno Not Teno

Up Teno Not Streno and traverse left across wall past bolt and 2 brackets to another crack. Up wide crack to top.

FFA: Brian Rattenbury, 2000

FA: James Hooy & Bill James, 2000

Mixed trad 18m, 4
Wollongong Mount Keira West Face
12 Warazara

The off-width right of Grim Death. The very 1st (or last) climb of the West Face (at the end closest to the South Face. ie. closest to the descent track).

Trad 5m
12 Mini Elpaco

Good corner 2 metres left of Grim Death.

FA: T Ogle & Graeme Hill

Trad 5m
19 Atomic

Top rope problem

Trad 5m
20 Cosmic Turkey Flame Out

"A streno jug haul roof/arete/wall climb". Initialled. Start at Dark Side Of The Turkey and traverse right on finger jugs to the lip of the roof. Up the wall past carrot.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn

Mixed trad 7m, 1
19 Dark Side Of The Turkey

"A brilliant climb. Devious and awkward. It turned me into a newt - but I got better again" - Ant Prehn. Up the wall at initials.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill & Ferret

Mixed trad 6m, 1
22 Fade Out

Desperate! Climb the scooping wall right of Extra Terrestrial Turkey 2 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn

Mixed trad 5m, 2
17 Tyrannosaurus Turkey

A snappy little bit of ball tearing work. Start right of tree at undercut wall. Undercling start then up wall to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn & Graeme Hill

Trad 8m
15 Golden Years

Marked with initials. The flake, a roof and to top.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas

Trad 6m
10 Intrepid

The short curving crack... ewwww

FA: Ogle & Graeme Hill

Trad 5m
9 Broad Side of the Barn

The off-width...

FA: Graeme Hill & Ogle

Trad 6m
17 Upward Progress

"A line of mighty power making all who walk beneath it cringe in eternal brooding fear" - Hill

Ooookay, yeah, its not a bad problem. Up compact wall to horizontal break, 2 small cam placements in horizontal, then layback off right hand using the right as an undercling. Kick left foot up into the little pocket , crank over left hand, reach for the small hold with the right high above your head. Chalk up left hand, crank off right hand, bring up right foot and reach for buckets at the top!

FA: Graeme Hill & Chunder

Trad 6m
10 Nifty Neville

Would be a good wall climb if not for the big tree in the way. Sling the tree and climb the jugs on the left arete...or just climb the tree!

FA: Graeme Hill & Chunder

Trad 6m
10 Piss Easy Chimney

A piss easy chimney. It doesn't seem very popular! Up the chimney... Every man and his dog

Trad 7m
10 Brigetta 3

A totally contrived route. Up slab left of PEC without using chimney.

FA: Graeme Hill & Chunder

Trad 8m
16 Brigetta 2

Start on slabby wall as for Brigetta6. Up to cam#1 pocket on left, step right and straight up wall (past fixed bracket) to horizontal break. Climb past horizontal using arete on left (don't grovel up the crack!). Up to LO's.

FA: Chunder, 1975

Mixed trad 14m, 1
10 Ashes To Dust

Worthless. The chimney

FA: Bill James & Co.

Trad 5m
14 Crust For Crust

Natural protection. Good but too short. The finger jam flake and wall.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ogle

Trad 6m
13 Zatidee

An old crack climb. Natural protection. Up the cracks past the old bolt marks. Two carrots at top to anchor/top rope

FA: Bill James & Co.

Mixed trad 12m, 1
13 Bangers & Flash

Natural and bolt protection. Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Small freind or nut to start. Onto thin wall and clip fixed bracket. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). A #2 cam placement appears as it eases. Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to toprope/belay bolts.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir & Graeme Hill

Trad 12m
6 Nurlegs

V-groove left of 'Crawdad'

FA: B Hurley & Bill James

Trad 10m
14 Angelic

The climb starts at the same place as Nursery, but you go straight up the crack. It is all naturally protected.

FA: Angela Young, Graeme Hill & Jon Muir R Chunder Bill James Frank Hodges Bill Price D Thomas, 1 May 2013

Trad 10m
8 Nursery

A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder). Bolt belay at ledge or exit up to the right.

FA: Bill James & Co.

Trad 10m
12 Iria

Another old trad route. Natural protection. Up the corner to ledge (ususally covered in leaves, wet sand and other crud), short corner to toprope belay on ledge or escape up right to the top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

Trad 10m
16 Save Our Souls

Starts as for Jacky, not very popular. Up the short arete to crack. Using side of crack climb climb up slightly right to corner in roof. Climb past old peg up to roof. Contort around roof and grovel up!

FA: Ant Prehn & Graeme Hill

Mixed trad 13m, 1
14 Jacky

Natural protection. A good route, start at 'J'. Up shorte arete to crack in lip of roof that comes across from Goober Grease. Up the crack then follow some bulges to exit.

FA: Ogle & Graeme Hill

Trad 13m
12 Bills Folly

The right hand corner crack. Natural protection. Popular even though it has a wide crack. The corner, step left and over last wide crack to top. Toprope bolts.

FA: Bill James & Co.

Trad 13m
17 Hills Hardon (Variant)

Start as for Hills Hardmen. Up the slab and continue up ramp to the right of the bolt to horizontal, traverse back left into line at tree. Straight up as for HH over top bulge to belay.

Trad 13m
20 Hills Hardmen

Natural and bolt protection. Take 2 brackets and 'freinds'. One hard move near the 1st bolt. The rest is around 17. Up the middle of the easy slab and reach left to clip 1st bolt. Place your feet and hands all on the same hold then crank for the next hold. Easy up to top bulge then bolt protects good top section. Toprope bolts over the top.

FA: Graeme Hill & Chunder, 2000

Mixed trad 13m, 2
9 Bills Folly Chimney

Natural protection. The corner flake crack leading to a dark chimney.

FA: Bill James & Co., 2000

Trad 13m
23 Masters Of The Universe

Bouldery, mind pumping finger work up an undercut arete. Start just right of Stratum. Traverse across the face (bolt) to undercut arete and up to ledge and bollard. Easily up or rap off

FA: Jon Muir

Mixed trad 12m, 1
12 Stratum

In the corner marked 'S'. Natural protection. Up groove, around roof to the right, then up to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill & I Impeliji

Trad 12m
8 Boiling Point

Natural protection. Start 2 meters right of Juggy Crack. Up the wall to the top.

FA: M Robinson, Ogle & Graeme Hill

Trad 12m
8 Juggy Crack

The corner crack marked JC. Up the crack...ahhh thats what number 11 hexes are

FA: Bill James & Co.

Trad 8m
11 Anna Variant

Start as for My Red Slug. Natural pro. Leftward up wall to top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

Trad 12m
16 Pulsating Puss

Another one of those roof climbs that looks like it could fall on you! Start in the corner at the righthand side under the large roof (Right of Putain De Pudding).Up the Short corner past bolt to roof, lean out on jugs up over to clip bolt on left. Swing leftward over lip and on up left to follow pedestal (bolt) to top.

Trad 15m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 869 routes.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文