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Description

Park and play. Picnic tables and public toilets. Avoid bouldering on wall facing camp ground if people are set up there or politely ask if they mind!

Access issues inherited from South West Rocks

The area is part of the Arakoon National Park and should be treated as such - respect the rules of the park.

Approach

Drive through camp grounds, past breakwall to quarry site under the gaol.

Ethic inherited from Arakoon

Minimal chalk usage and no tick marks. Remember you are sharing park with other users. Be respectful. Clean up after yourself and other!

History

History timeline chart

First area bouldered here in 1996 by Anthony Alexander, Trent Dobson and Brett Martin

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Hard start, very good!

First problem done here in 1996.

FA: Anthony Alexander, 1996

Start up LL then out to jugs high on face.

Thin face

Salty slopers, clean well. Highball

Fun

The ocean facing wall just r of rwav

On boulder with plaque to EH. Lay away and up scoops over plaque

The south east arete of the boulder with multiple plaques. Sit start.

Up centre of plaque wall to trick mantle

Traverse the hand crack keeping feet off ground then top out up arete

The north east arete. Sit start on painful 2 finger pocket

North arete, goal side of plaque block

Sit start compressing south side of boulder on top of ridge above picnic shelter opposite toilet block

On opposite side to dead tree hand traverse diagonal crack

Sit start out L, quite a hard pull to slopers and slab.

FA: Jul 2019

Appealing line, but far easier than it looks. Up underside of boulder, L to hanging arete and up this to easy slab. Ensure good pad and spotters!

FA: Jul 2019

Easy wall with tricky first move.

FA: Jul 2019

Best problem on wall. Low tide only, avoid area in large swell periods!

About 10m R of wetfeet, undercling up and exit L. (Bold direct finish possible at a much highter grade).

FA: Jul 2019

Tricky crack problem in the middle of the wall. Luckily eases after the start.

FA: Jul 2019

Excellent. L along slopey rail, then straight up steep wall to the top. Rarther tall. Do not fall.

FA: Jul 2019

Up the RHS of wall, eases after the start, but avoid bridging to easy corner

FA: Jul 2019

The following short wall is at water level, and only accessible at low-tides and calm seas. It also barely qualifies as DWS, being rather shallow and a fall the wrong way, or from the top might not be safe - Climb at own risk!

However, the routes are short enough for the shallow water to offer some protection... more so than the actual bouldering around here if you're lacking a decent pad or 2. The climbs are cool - they mostly start by leaning across to the juggy pocket/pinch in the middle of the wall.

Start on the central pocket/pinch, then make a low traverse L across wall, then up. Probably the safest climb.

FA: Goshen Watts, Jul 2019

Start on the central pocket/pinch, then up and L to good topout.

FA: Goshen Watts, Jul 2019

Start on the central pocket/pinch; straight up to slick cracks (be careful at this point; but jugs over the top).

FA: Goshen Watts, Jul 2019

Start out R (above ledge platform); awesome rising pockets (easy) until you're above the water, where slightly trickier moves go over the top.

FA: Goshen Watts, Jul 2019

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