Routes in Mid North Coast for selected grade

Far right side. Start 4 R of O climb up corner. Anchor long slings 2 boulders.

Up flack and through bulge

the corner crack on left of wall

A traverse of terror leading to a balancy face.

Direct start to Happy Lama.

Super fun flake/crack up the middle of Lama Land. Bolt belay.

3m right of WTPGHH around where there is a dish like depression half way up.

1m right of PS

Bottomless to BR, then up black rock on gear

The closed seam leading into the crack and bowl. Nice easy beginners climb,

The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay. The first good route climbed at the Fun Parlour (and possibly all of the Coffs area).

The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay.

This and the next route are on a short, orange section of the cliff with small roofs and caves. Imagine having pus in your boots! An overhanging arete then easy to top.

The original start on the right side of the arete is about 17. However, a better start is on the left side of the arete and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the climb - 14. Excellent value. Straight up the arete to top, natural pro.

1m right of ‘Love and Marriage’. Up obvious chunky route to right of tree Natural pro, tree belay

2m right of Barn Storming. 3 bolts.

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the crack, lay-backing all the way. Large cams.

A great little number just right of Whipping Boy. Up onto ledge then easy rock to corner then head left past a bolt to the ledge above Whipping Boy. Trad belay.

The crack 1m right of Knuckle Sandwich. Jam to cave, exit right. Small cams.

This climb is designed to be a novice's first lead, It is all natural with good placements for SLCD. A chain belay is waiting on a reasonable ledge

NP route. Up the open book cnr crack, then traverse to line above the bolt on T. Follow the NP line taking you around the left of the face. Up to chain belay under ledge.

Fun first time trad lead great pro and flows really well. Up crack on the right hand side of the arete 20m right of Ready! Tree Belay.

Corner Crack right of Abbot Lover. Tree Belay

Put up after two abseils to the river and 15 minutes of rain put the best climbs out of condition. Two obvious left leaning corners 45m high, starting at the river level at the upstream (southern) end of the gorge. The climb follows the easy corner system 40m to the left. 1st pitch (35m): Up the right veering slabs to corner, up and left to belay. 2nd pitch (30m): Follow slabs and grooves to large ledge. 3rd pitch (20m): Up the right edge of the slab to ledge. 4th pitch (15m): Easy choss to top. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.

Sit start and to the top

Left hand side of the most northern face of the crag

Start at small corner with obvious line. Up and through small overlap to head wall where climbing eases off. Joins diagonal crack line of SWW and top-out through V-slot at obvious stance. To walk off go R along blocks and grassy ledges until you are above the main wall from where you descend as per normal down the juggy descent corner at the far R.

Starts on obvious line 1m R of RFID. Follow line straight up until small overlap where line then trends L. Shares the same top-out as for RFID. Build anchor to rap or walk off R (see RFID for descent details).

Start 2m R of SWW at arête. Follow obvious blocks up arête until you reach the small wall at top. Mantle wall to then join up with SWW crack for the last 2m. Build anchor to rap or walk off (see RFID for descent details).

1/2 way between Top Hat and the next water tanks, head right and down, to the small promitory over the little bay, to the tope-rope anchors. Panama is on the south side of the anchors

Same anchors as Panama, but Fedora is on the north side of them

Up the centre of the slab facing the ocean, viewpoint is just to the left

Greens A,B and C all use the tope-rope U bolts at the nth end of the ledge. Green A is on the arete just below the anchors. At low tide, rap down and climb up

About 3 m's south of Green A. Use long slings or setup rope to reduce rope drag

About 30m's Sth of Green anchors, there a anchors for "G", set low

The corner 2m right of Free Wobbegong. Some loose rock nearer the top, climb with caution.

Start just left of the white streak. Follow the carrots which stay to the left of the white streaks over an overlap to the top where there are 2 fixed hangers.

Climb the carrots on the white streak, the rock is better than you think it might be. 2 fixed hangers at the top.

Interesting pockets and large cobbles. Start by hole in block, follow 3 fixed hangers up face to DBB.

Easy face with plenty of holds up to the cave. To get off down climb to the left in the corner.

Low tide only.

A glorious scramble along untamed coast leading to a single easy boulder problem (VB? V0?). From the east edge of Number One Beach scramble 500m towards Boat Beach via jagged basalt slab formations.

When you find yourself above a narrow channel that heaves with the tide, you'll be funneled into the boulder problem. Grip the overhang and pass over the channel to the rock platform beyond. You'll be at Boat Beach in seconds.