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Surf Rock

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 57
  • Aka: Cabarita Beach - Headland

Seasonality

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Summary

sea cliff, windy. Some loose rock, helmet is a good idea, Some very sharp rock!!! cut though my 11mm rope when top roping an overhang. Use rope protectors over all edges. Most rock is pretty average.

Description

Mostly Trad climbing.Sea cliff climbing, beautiful location. good surf. A place to climb when on the north coast of NSW... Better than nothing... If you dont like the climbs... go Surfing...

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Cabarita Beach - Headland... NSW. follow trail out to headland, when on wooden boardwalk climb over fence and head to right side of headland. there are 2 decent gullys, first climbs are in first gully.

Where to stay

Cabarita has lots of accomadation.

Ethic

Using carrots to bolt, they are least noticeable. Headland is public location. Minimal impact to environment is required here.

History

History timeline chart

Found a bolted climb with a chain anchor... Most climbs are probably easier than graded. Grading is my best guess... feel free to adjust grades...

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Most climbs are relative to this climb. first climb in the gully.follow carrot bolts to chains. up slab...

Start under arete. 2m right of TB. Climb along arete.

FA: 2012

5m right of TB. Up corner to small roof. To TB chain

FFA: Za Utopia, 2012

Start 2m right EF straight up over small roof.

FFA: Za Utopia, Darius Utopia & Phoenix, 2012

One bolt at the top. start 2m right of JFF. up slab to corner then left to chain.

FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia., 2012

10m right of TB. up wall to roof, then onto slab wall to finish. top out.

Climb 2m left of BA, up slightly steeper face upto nose with sharp edges... use rope protector when abseiling in.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

2m L of Back in Black. Follow Crack line at the top section. Some loose rock at the top.

FA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 2013

Next climbs access from out the end of headland.2 m left of EJ about 15m right of moonlight drive.Climb big black slab wall

FFA: Za Utopia & Maxium, 2013

start 10m R of MD. Up wall. Pro not great, but do able.

FA: 2013

FFA: Za Utopia, 2013

start inbetween EJ & CL. up slab wall over the nose

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

start 3m R of EJ. up arete though chimney.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

FFA: Za Utopia & Maxium, 2013

start on wall under roof on the corner. Up wall over corner of roof.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

start 2m R of ITM up small wall over roof. Sharp edges cut through my 11mm rope when top roping...

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

On East face 5m R of CL. Up face. Abseil down to Start above water.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

first climb in 2nd gully, next 7 climbs anchor of 2 carrots at top.

FA: 2013

2m R of P

FA: 2013

2m R AS , up easy face corner

FA: 2013

2m R of SE, up easy face

FA: 2013

2m R of Ff

FA: 2013

start under roof 2m R of 3e.

FA: 2013

climb wall to the chimney.

FA: 2013

next gully wall, anchor of rock - need long rope for anchor. climb up corner 1m R of TTS.

start 2m right of corner climb. straight up middel of face on sharp holds that draw blood. crux at start.

FA: 2012

start 2m right of razor fingers. up wall 2m then traverse left across RF on small ledge then straight up.

FA: 2012

The boulder is found another 50m on from the last rope climb. Local fisherman's spot. This was the first line climbed here, and the best. Beautiful laybacking with a heel hook up the right arête. The line is from a stand start but a sit start has also been done, maybe at a V1 but adds no value. Finish on the top of the boulder with a nice mantle.

FA: Taliesin St. john, 7 Jul 2021

Sit start the left arête of the overhanging boulder. Left hand on corner of the arete and right in a pocket lower down, may need to squat if small. Burly moves for the grade through a series of pockets, crimps staying on the right face using the arête to the top of the boulder.

FA: Taliesin St. john, 8 Jul 2021

Very cool kinda dyno, kinda sideways deadpoint. Start on two rails facing outwards in the middle of the boulder. Find a key foot and swing out to the left and up to a pocket. I could catch this out stretch but any smaller wingspan may need to properly dyno. From the pocket climb to the top and top out the boulder.

Sit start may also be possible at a higher grade. Also may be possible statically.

FA: Taliesin St. john, 8 Jul 2021

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