Showing all 22 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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Urbenville Battery Hill | |||||
25 | ★★ Life Isn't All Ha Ha Hee Hee
2m L of Ginsu. Climbs the steeper section of the wall following 6 or 7 camouflaged FHs and a few crimps. FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2006 | 22m, 7 | |||
Urbenville Spot X | |||||
25 | ★ Flexion
Starts same as above but takes the right-hand bolt line. Trends up and R passing monster flake (climbing corner L of this) to roof, through this on flakes. 9 FH’s then mantle to anchor above lip. FFA: Lee Cujes, 2013 | 22m, 10 | |||
25 | ★★★ Tito Traverxa
15m R in central section of wall. Monster traverse - traverses about 15m R through a 45 degree overhung wall. A tribute to a very talented 12yo Italian climber on the day of his passing. 12 FH’s. Permadraws. Very chossy until the 2nd draw. FFA: Lee Cujes, 2013 | 28m, 13 | |||
Urbenville Crossroads | |||||
25 | ★ Gryphon
A creature with the body, tail, and back legs of a lion; the head and wings of an eagle; and an eagle's talons as its front feet. 5m R. Up past bolt onto large platform at 5m. Up a balancy slab for 15m to ledge below the steepness. Now comes a series of punchy steep sections interspersed with good rests. The finale, traversing above the sucking void is particularly exciting. FFA: Lee Cujes, 15 Jun 2014 | 40m | |||
25 | ★★ Cthulhu (full version)
A large cephalopod-like creature with a tentacled mouth, large wings, clawed hands and scaly skin. Starting at the tree seat. Climbs the orange rock through a bulge. Standard Crossroads wall climbing through bulges takes you beyond the half height anchor to a sit-down rest. Out of here the line snakes right and left - long slings will reduce drag. The final section pits you against an arete you must cross left to right. A very interesting assortment of moves and several very good rests to keep things sane. Take 23 quickdraws. FFA: Tom Reid, 20 Jul 2014 | 45m, 24 | |||
25 | ★ Geryon
A fearsome giant with one body and three heads. He owned Orthrus. Start is just to the right of Cthulhu. Climb up the slab to a roof and pull through a minor crux then solid steep moves to the top. FFA: Duncan Steel, 26 Jul 2014 | 40m, 18 | |||
25 | ★ Hulking
Located left of Giant at black slab with low first bolt. Another difficult slab start leads up to the ledge. Grade 22 climbing for most of the way, until things start to steepen with a tricky crux in a clean corner where your arms begin to tire. Keep it together to negotiate the arete to corner-transition finale. FFA: Duncan Steel, 25 May 2014 | 40m | |||
25 | ★ Balor
The god of death and the king of the Fomorians (a race of giants). Scramble up on stacked blocks to reach first bolt on black slab above. Slab to ledge, then through a steeper bit to another ledge and super quality shield of perfect stone. Tricky moves to breach this, then up to a technical mantle to below the upper steepness. Then, up. FFA: Duncan Steel, 15 Jun 2014 | 35m, 16 | |||
25 | Fenris
A monstrous wolf. Start as for Balor to get on top of the stacked blocks, then wander 5m R to first bolt. Up black slab past four bolts to the gently overhung streaky black wall. Nice sporty moves up this to typical Crossroads mantle out. More varied climbing including a no holds mantle, and then steep jugging with a punchy finale. Good fun! FFA: Duncan Steel, 6 Jul 2014 | 35m | |||
Urbenville Vesuvius | |||||
25 | ★★ Pompeii
High first U-bolt on dark rock (stickclip off block). Fierce moves off the deck give a brief rest before fingerlock crux above bolt four. Continuous, R-leaning climbing past another eight bolts to lower off. Climbed on the famous 41 degree day. FFA: Lee Cujes & John O'Brien, 2014 | 27m, 14 | |||
25 | ★ Herculaneum
4m R. The big corner with glue-in rings. Large R-leaning open book corner (some shattered rock), then left. Top crux will have you thinking. Crazy pockets up top are worth experiencing. FFA: Lee Cujes, 2014 | 23m | |||
Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield North West Face (Main Wall) | |||||
25 | ★★★ Escension
A big wall adventure in a real jungle. Epic access, some loose rock and wet weather make this one of the harder long routes in Australia. This route was originally aided at A2+ 17, then freed shortly after at 25. The route description is for the aid ascent. There was once a track cut through the thick jungle to the base of the wall, but this is most likely long gone. The walk-in was 3+ hours with the track. Without - expect to double that time or more. You cannot see the cliff until you are standing right under it. Aid Ascent Gear Required: 2x60m ropes, double rack of wires + cams (up to size #5 SLCD), Slider nuts, 2 x regular skyhooks, 1 size each of short knifeblade pins + a few lost arrows, no bolt brackets are required - all bolts have fixed hangers. There is much loose rock still on the route. From pitches 5-7 the route weaves around some seriously big widow makers. The pitches in this area are short so that the belayer is safe from falling rock. All of the belays, apart from the top of pitch 7, are hanging or semi hanging. The only area suitable for an uncomfortable bivi on the wall would be the vegetated ledge midway through pitch 8. Rock quality varies along the route with the rock improving in hardness above pitch 6.
Descent: Pitch 9 to 8 50m Pitch 8 to 7 35m Pitch 7 to 4 50m Pitch 4 to 2 40m Pitch 2 to 1 40m Pitch 1 to ground 60m+ (walk off possible if slab is not wet) FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2001 FA: Phil Box, Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon & Will Dameron, 2001 | 260m, 9 | |||
25 | Escension free description
FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2002 | 330m, 9 | |||
Byron Lowtide Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★★ Hoist the Colours
Start on the yellow tooth underclings. Haul left through underclings and top out via compression fridge FA: Mitch Woodward | ||||
V5 | ★ Crusty Ol'SeaBiscuit
Sit start on underclings. heave up to sharp crimp and pounce to edge then top out FA: Mitch Woodward | ||||
V5 | ★ Any Port in a Storm
Start on sideways crimps, Out left to arete but transition onto face and exit up left FA: Mitch Woodward | ||||
Lighthouse beach | |||||
V5 | ★ A2
Tricky arete with bad feet, grade changes depending on sand level. | ||||
V5/6 | ★ D2
FA: Sascha Paul, 2019 | ||||
V5 | ★ F2
Start sitting on block, up slapping right arete and thin holds on face to finish up large pocket on left side of face. | ||||
V5 | ★★ J6
Layaway from jam crack to gaston on face, then out left to pocket. | ||||
V5 | ★ J12
Watch your back! From pocket up and over with bad feet. | ||||
Joggly point cave | |||||
V5 | ★★ Dirty Dancing
Can be done either direction! Slippery and pumpy. |
Showing all 22 routes.