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Bendemeer Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Deon Heemskerk Isaac Searant James vilimaa Steve Brown Sam Lobsey Zach Craft

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Bendemeer 130 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.884854, 151.163602

summary

Granite

description

Bendemeer area is predominantly granite boulders. The greater area may yet uncover some hidden gems. The boulders are scattered throughout the landscape, with only small clusters grouped. The banks of the macdonald yield many problems

access issues

All climbs listed here are on public access land, crown, TSR, or river access. Many great areas around bendemeer are on private land but due to fear of liability or theft these areas are strictly of limits. Unless you like been shot at while climbing..

approach

Bendemeer is approximately 40 km north of Tamworth and 70 km south of Armidale on the new england highway.

where to stay

ethic

Please close all gates that you enter into and out of TSR, please don't spook stock and Above all PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE ANY RUBBISH! This is the easiest way to get locals off side!

history

Little history is known of any climbing in the area, as fare as we know. No known climbing north of the Moonbi hills and south east of Beulah...

1.1. The Drive By 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.902975, 151.146111

description

A small group of boulders literally meters from the new england highway. need a quick break from driving? here is your spot!

access issues

there is a good shoulder to pull off on but still look out when entering an existing your car because cars and trucks cruise through there!

1.1.1. Roadside few 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.900641, 151.148451

description

Boulders right next to the highway.

1.1.1.1. The fergie seat 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.900826, 151.147878

description

The large triangle shaped boulder close to the road

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 project BoulderProject
1.1.1.2. swamp view 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.900900, 151.147888

description

just north of the cellar door and south of the fergie seat

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Floki's revenge

use the corner, and the small halfway crystals for this one.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 1 Apr 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Apr 2015

V1 Boulder 4m
1.1.1.3. Cellar doors 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.901006, 151.147789

description

two squared off boulders with gouges from when they built the road

approach

walk towards the fence on the south side of the clusters

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 the ladder

straight up the gouges

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 1 Apr 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Apr 2015

V0- Boulder 3m
2 a traverse

up then along the top

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 1 Apr 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Apr 2015

V0- Boulder 3m
3 the tennis shot

start on the right and arete to the left.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 1 Apr 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Apr 2015

V0- Boulder 3m
4 the alternative

up through the middle of the two

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 1 Apr 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Apr 2015

V0- Boulder 3m

1.1.2. TSR (east side) 1 route in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.902981, 151.146252

description

Large TSR on the eastern side of the highway, doesn't yield a lot of stone though.

1.1.2.1. Wet Feet 0 routes in Boulder

description

Boulder on Dunducketty creek, if you come off on the wrong side you will get wet. Its not deep but muddy.

1.1.2.2. Dunducketty 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.901842, 151.148142

description

Group of boulders on the edge of Dunducketty creek.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dunducketty Dude

Crack

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 2 May 2016

V0 Boulder 4m
1.1.2.3. The Shark or The Chocolate Bar 0 routes in Boulder

description

Boulder standing alone with a large flake up one side.

1.2. The Drive By (west side) 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.901183, 151.145449

description

Western side of the highway, encapsulates the TSR and Part of Bendemeer common.

1.2.1. Foundation Quarry 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.901257, 151.145533

description

Here some of the original stone was hand cut in the 1800's for some of the original buildings built in Bendemeer. The stone cutters have left one boulder with some very unusual features, like two finger pockets and gouged corners.

1.2.1.1. Ice cream scoop 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.901116, 151.145313

description

Right next to the TSR fence, bit of blackberry about so be careful.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Vanilla

Easy slab, easiest spot to get off too.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 2 Apr 2016

V0- Boulder 2m
2 Cookies and cream

SDS, tricky lay back start but once you grab the high jug its over.

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Tiarni Heemskerk, 2 Apr 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 2 Apr 2016

V0 Boulder 2m
1.2.1.2. Ferny 0 routes in Boulder

description

West of the stone cutter's, with a nice crop of ferns under it.

1.2.1.3. Stone Cutter's 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.901274, 151.145396

description

As a Bendemeer local please respect my projects on this boulder and dont attemp any till i finish. I only ask for this boulder only. Thankyou

Legend has it when this boulder was being cut into horizontal slabs by the cutters and it actually fractured the wrong way! Fracturing vertically and that is why it was left. True or not? It has left us with one fun boulder. A lot of hard work went into hand cutting this boulder back in the day. It only seems right to honor that by climbing it!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 p1

SDS Layback the crack

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 31 Mar 2016

BoulderProject 5m
2 p2

Up the two finger pocket line.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 31 Mar 2016

BoulderProject 4m
3 p3

Dyno to mantle, traverse right then up via pockets or large flake.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 31 Mar 2016

BoulderProject 4m
1.2.1.4. Another Day Another Flake 0 routes in Boulder

description

Large boulder on road side with large thin but solid flake.

1.2.1.5. Henchman's Hat 0 routes in Boulder

description

Roadside boulder with distinctive hat like top section.

1.2.2. Bendy TSR 0 routes in Area

description

Part of the bendemeer TSR

1.2.2.1. Jiro 0 routes in Boulder

description

Boulder under the trees near the creek.

1.2.2.2. The Advertisers 0 routes in Boulder

description

Small boulder next to the old highway with graffiti.

1.2.2.3. Apple Whisperer 0 routes in Boulder

description

Biggest boulder in a small cluster up the Bendemeer end of the TSR. Its right next to the fence, which is a pity or motivation for not coming off, depending on how you look at it.

1.3. Bendemeer Common 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.897053, 151.140180

description

Area behind the TSR on the western side of the New England Highway. The granite here is so sharp that you will be crying for your mummy. But the features are so good, you will be winking at your lover.

access issues

public but its my understanding that it has been leased to a local for grazing.

1.3.1. Creek Boulders 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.898200, 151.140541

description

Boulders along the creek track

access issues

If you have a four wheel drive you can cross the creek, if not leave your car parked off the main track(Its a driveway too) and walk up the track.

approach

Most boulders within a ten minute walk.

1.3.1.1. Slabsville 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.898772, 151.141402

description

Two highball slab boulders, one is split in half. Plenty of sharp crimps and just as much lichen and moss.

approach

take the track across the creek, its about 5 minutes on foot.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 p1

Highball slab

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 10 Apr 2016

Boulder 5m
1.3.1.2. Freaky Frigette 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.897839, 151.140340

description

Large, long feature packed boulder. 30m further down the track from Slabsville and about 10m up the hill off the track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Almost Envy

Layback, jam or semi slab.. Do it your way..

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 10 Apr 2016

V0 Boulder 3m
2 Cookie Cutter

Follows the obvious crack line. Starts on a crimp and sloper then reach deep inside for another sloper, before throwing to the main crack. Jam your left knuckle then crossover layback using two obvious face footers. Warning the crux is the top.

FA: James vilimaa

Set by Deon Heemskerk & James vilimaa, 10 Apr 2016

V5 Boulder 5m
3 Pick your battles

Slab problem 1m to the left of crack "Almost Envy". Tops out on ledge.

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: James vilimaa, 17 Apr 2016

V1 Boulder
4 Open proj

Open project up the obvious arête on razor crimps and pinches. Maybe v8ish

BoulderProject 5m
1.3.1.3. Viewing flatform 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.897793, 151.140209

description

Two small boulders next to Freaky Frigette

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blackberry hold

Set by Steve Brown, Apr 2016

FA: Steve Brown, 17 Apr 2016

VB Boulder 2m
1.3.1.4. 2 0 routes in Boulder

description

Small boulder north west of Freaky Frigette

1.3.1.5. Lazy Sunday 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.897502, 151.139798

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lazy Sunday

The crux is down low and once on is a nice layback/ slab crack.

FA: Steve Brown, 17 Apr 2016

V0- Boulder
1.3.1.6. 4 0 routes in Boulder
1.3.1.7. Shin Smashing Good Times 0 routes in Boulder

description

Boulder directly behind Freaky Frigette, can be a little crumbly and is very sharp.

1.3.1.8. Crystals In The Blood 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.898184, 151.141209

description

Small boulder just down hill from Cranky Old Brown Snake

approach

head up hill and north west of Slabsville

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crystals Are Not Just Skin Deep

Sit start, crux is the start. Find your feet and reach up with left till you feel the crystals penetrate your skin.

Set by Deon Heemskerk & James vilimaa, 23 May 2016

FA: James vilimaa, 23 May 2016

V1 Boulder 3m
1.3.1.9. Cranky Old Brown Snake 0 routes in Boulder

description

Good sized boulder with a couple of cracks on the western side. Up the hill and slightly west of Slabsville

1.3.2. Pine Ridge 0 routes in Area

description

Rocky out crop, large stacked boulders with great features.

1.3.2.1. Pine Ridge Butress 0 routes in Cliff

description

Feature packed, fun butress on the southern side of the pine ridge. Directly up the hill from Slabville boulders.

1.3.3. South Western Cluster 0 routes in Area

description

unexplored

1.4. Rapid Watch 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.865311, 151.156925

description

Small group of boulders on a great spot of the MacDonald river. This area is a popular fishing spot, and locale for cooling off in the various rock pools fed by little rapids.

access issues

The boulders, while not in a fenced area are on land leased by a neighbour. We have been granted permission but with the proviso no rubbish is left behind.

approach

From Bendemeer head north on Caroline street past the hotel for 1.5km, just past the sweeping left bend and 100km/h sign there is a dirt track off to the right. Turn down and find a place to park off the track. This is a 2wd track. Please do not dive all the way down to the river bank, as the lease owner does not permit this...

1.4.1. Season 1 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.865414, 151.156381

description

The boulder on the south end of the cluster, back side facing the road is a walk off.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mitch Buchannon

On the south east corner of the boulder. Use the jug where the flake has come off

Set by Jack, 19 Apr 2015

FA: Jack, 19 Apr 2015

V0+ Boulder 4m
2 project

Start the same as mitch buchannon but travers to the right over the corner large flake.

BoulderProject 4m

1.4.2. C.J.Parker 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.865310, 151.156389

description

The boulder in the centre of the cluster with the most features. Has two large willow branches that have fallen over it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Puppies

up the left, avoid using the log to pull up.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 1 Jan 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Jan 2015

V0- Boulder 4m
2 Beach umbrellas

Up the middle between the two willow limbs, using the obvious pockets. Great warm up boulder.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 1 Jan 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Jan 2015

V0 Boulder 4m

1.4.3. The locker room 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.865371, 151.156287

description

Large boulder with a distinctive crack on the river side. This boulder is west of C.J.Parker and north of the season 1 boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slow motion

The crack on the river(east side) of boulder

Set by Jack, 19 Apr 2015

FA: Jack, 19 Apr 2015

V1 Boulder 5m
2 Towel whip

same side but south of the crack, crimp up onto the sloping mantle. Then top out slightly to the right.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 19 Apr 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 3 May 2015

V1 Boulder 5m
3 Don't drop the soap

left of towel whip, almost at the end of the boulder. Use your feet ,very little hands on that sloping mantle. Once on the mantle traverse across to the top out of Towel whip.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 13 Dec 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 13 Dec 2015

V1 Boulder 4m

1.4.4. "I'm Always Here" 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.865503, 151.156211

description

The closest boulder to the road, right next to the access track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 the drum roll

South side of the boulder, road side of the tree growing up the side.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 5 Jul 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 5 Jul 2015

V0 Boulder 3m

1.4.5. Summer's dream 1 route in Unknown

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.865223, 151.156346

description

Small boulder south of the tower and north C.J.Parker. Has an obvious horizontal crack on the river side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 slade

Tricky start with no high hand holds, Use feet to transverse crack then up on the right when you find some high holds.

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 28 May 2015

V0+ Boulder 3m

1.4.6. The Tower 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.865170, 151.156332

description

Large boulder on the north end of the cluster. Bottom (east) side is on rivers edge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 tower ladder

Up the obvious features on south west side. Use plenty of pads, there is a large stone on the landing.

FA: Jack, 1 Apr 2015

V0- Boulder 3m

1.5. The Cauldron 0 routes in Area

summary

Shallow water bouldering

description

Nice spot for a dip in summer and to challenge yourself on some low but slippery granite boulders. There is also some traditional bouldering to be had here on a couple of crackers.

access issues

easy

approach

Just head to the river south of Rapid Watch

1.5.1. Water Bum 0 routes in Boulder

description

Good sized boulder on the east side of the river. landings in the water vary from hip to shoulder height. In need of a clean but has features.

approach

head down the track north of the Rapid Watch cluster

1.5.2. Willow Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

description

Small boulder, road side of river.

1.5.3. Cauldron wall 0 routes in Boulder

description

Small slippery wall next to the bubbling pit of the cauldron. Only enter on normal flow as the water flows through at some pace.

1.5.4. East point 0 routes in Boulder

1.5.5. Dogs Balls 0 routes in Boulder

description

Yeah well the stand out boulder

approach

East side of the river, you cant miss it!

1.6. 'Jaru' 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.862651, 151.152650

description

Small four acre private property on the outskirts of Bendemeer. Has some unique boulders to the area.

access issues

Private property, owner is a climber. While your more than welcome, owner would just appreciate a text message (Deon 0428664348) or pop into The Pioneer General store in Bendemeer and talk to the owner there. WARNING owner has Beehives!

approach

From Bendemeer head north west on the watsons creek road for approximately 2km. The property number is 389, please park at the top of the driveway as not to block it.

1.6.1. Warm up 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.862642, 151.152730

description

Small boulder in front of the loaves

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Anger management

Sit start, move left and up on the sharp jugs.

V0+ Boulder
2 Uranium

Sit start, undercling, then up on the sharp jugs

V0 Boulder 2m

1.6.2. Loaves of Bread 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.862701, 151.152841

description

Two long boulders that resemble loaves of bread. One with a distinct slice cut out.

approach

Directly east of the house

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Yeast

Left side of the first loaf. Layback or use the small crimps on the front face, Or both

V1 Boulder 4m
2 Captain Jack

End of the loaf on the road side.

Set by Jack

FA: Jack

V0+ Boulder 4m

1.6.3. Split Personality 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.862741, 151.153104

description

Road side boulder

approach

From the loaves walk over the fallen fence towards the road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 For love of the jug

Start by crimp and left hand large jug

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Anthony Townsend

FA: Deon Heemskerk

V0- Boulder 4m
2 Crowd Pleaser

North face, crimps with out using the big jug on the left.

V0 Boulder 4m
3 A little right

On right side of face using the crimps and anything you can find.

Set by Jack & Deon Heemskerk

FA: Jack

V0+ Boulder 4m
4 E

Easy way on-off

VB Boulder 3m
5 Privet Itch

Start with the two side pulls, smear and bump up to any number of sharp jugs.

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 23 Apr 2017

V0- Boulder 3m
6 Project

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 23 Apr 2017

BoulderProject 3m

1.6.4. Shovel head 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.862757, 151.152686

description

Home to the sharpest hold in bendemeer

approach

West of the loaves

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spading

Sit start up the south west face.

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Anthony Townsend

FA: Deon Heemskerk

V0 Boulder 3m
2 project

Home to the sharpest hold in Bendemeer

BoulderProject

1.6.5. Granny Smith 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.862759, 151.152603

description

Between the shovel head and a large apply tree.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Apple Picker

Look for the slightest edge for feet, left and right hands compression on the side of the boulder till you can grab the bomber over the top. Be careful not to fall on the star post.

V0+ Boulder 3m

1.6.6. Hidden 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.862861, 151.153048

description

Boulder north side of the big boy. Covered with climbers and will yeild more as its cleared

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Granite White Shark

Sit start if you like, up the crack then layback onto the slab, Traverse right till you feel comfortable and up. Watch for old blackberry in the crack, can bite!

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 23 Apr 2017

V0 Boulder 3m
2 Project 1

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 23 Apr 2017

BoulderProject 4m

1.6.7. Big Boy 0 routes in Boulder

description

The largest and only highball boulder on the place

approach

South of the main cluster behind the woody, cant miss it!

1.6.8. Inglis County Woodie 0 routes in Artificial

summary

Owner has sold this woodie and has been removed!

description

Former Undercover but outside woodie for those wet days.

1.7. Exile 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering and Top roping

Lat / Long: -30.853407, 151.153124

summary

Granite

description

boulders both sides of the river.

access issues

Over the fence or through the gate. It is private property till the high flood mark but owner has granted permission at this stage. On the east side stay to boulders only under the high flood mark as owner has Not given permission.

approach

Approximately 1.5km from Bendemeer on the watsons creek road. After the sharp (quarry) corner park on the side of the road.

1.7.1. Echo beach 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Bouldering and Top roping

Lat / Long: -30.852700, 151.152804

description

A small seemingly untouched part of the Macdonald river. Small out crop surrounding a pleasant little swimming hole.

approach

From watsons creek road head towards the river where the high voltage lines cross. Turn left and head down stream, following the track for five minutes. Once the river gets rocky and you see some highballs up on the left you have reached it.

1.7.1.1. Tiger Moth and Horse Fly 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.852344, 151.152707

description

Long boulder on the western side of the river.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 p1

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 22 Feb 2016

BoulderProject 4m
2 Lomandra Face

Avoid touching the tree, look for the bommer beneath the lomandra.

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Seamus Traynor, 22 Feb 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 10 Mar 2016

V0- Boulder 3m
3 Jugs in bendy 2

Sit start below feature with both hand on jugs. then switch to one hand on jug other on crimp to the right. Swing a leg over and away you go!

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Seamus Traynor, 10 Mar 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 10 Mar 2016

V0+ Boulder 3m
4 Jugs in bendy

Sit start slightly left of feature. Committing high reach then step up and top out.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 10 Mar 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 10 Mar 2016

V0+ Boulder 3m
1.7.1.2. Split Solitude 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Top roping

Lat / Long: -30.852251, 151.152769

description

The largest boulder on the west side of Echo beach.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gear wrecker

Up via the surprising solid edges, keep close to corner.

Set by Seamus Traynor & Deon Heemskerk

FA: Seamus Traynor, 7 Nov 2016

9 Top rope 6m
2 project

Cleaning

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Seamus Traynor, 7 Nov 2016

Top ropeProject 7m
1.7.1.3. Little nugget 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.852248, 151.152938

description

small boulder between Split solitude and the Marshmallow boulders.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 project

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Seamus Traynor, 10 Mar 2016

BoulderProject 2m
1.7.1.4. Marshmallow 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.852293, 151.153056

description

Smooth weathered boulders right next to river, nice sandy landing.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Glass corner

Corner jug and up,on this very slippery river side granite

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 21 Feb 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 21 Feb 2016

V0- Boulder 3m

1.8. Summer School 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.849516, 151.153296

description

Boulders that line both sides of the MacDonald river.

access issues

Public access to the high flood mark, access is from the watsons creek road.

approach

Approximately 2 kilometers from Bendemeer half way to the deep hole where the river gets close to the road.

1.8.1. Boulder, Swim, Sleep. Repeat 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.849551, 151.152957

description

The central, and most concentrated cluster of boulders in Summer school area.

access issues

Public access, a little overgrown in some areas, with blackberry lurking.. Remember only to stay to the high flood mark on the east side.. It is private land and owner prefers people not to access his place.

approach

Park just off the road on near where you can see the top of the cluster.

1.8.1.1. Teachers pet 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.849766, 151.152807

description

Long and low boulder close to the swimming area.

approach

easy access along the river either way from north or south is right next to the track on the western side of the river.

history

The first river project in 2014 by Anthony Townsend and Deon Heemskerk

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Traverse L to R

Fun and easy little traverse. use the corner and launch up to the top and move across. plenty of holds.

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Anthony Townsend, 17 Feb 2014

FA: Deon Heemskerk & Anothy Townsend, 17 Feb 2014

V0 Boulder 2m
2 Traverse R to L

Same but reverse

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Anthony Townsend, 1 Mar 2014

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Mar 2014

V0 Boulder 2m
3 L to R and R to L

Left to right and right back to left. There is a few spots to have a break pop up on the end on the right. mid point there is a decent little edge.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 1 Feb 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Feb 2016

V0+ Boulder
1.8.1.2. The class room 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.849717, 151.152784

description

Boulder with plenty of sharp little crimps, sprinkled over its face. Has great landings, and has much less blackberry under it than other boulders in this area. Needs a lot of cleaning.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lesson one

About 1m along from the left end you will see a vertical feature. Follow that up to the crimps up top. feet are the crystals.. Top out is a bit awkward due to the boulder on top. To get off down climb and jump on mat or move around to the right where some smaller boulders are to leap off.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 7 Feb 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 7 Feb 2016

V0 Boulder 3m
2 p1

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 1 Feb 2016

BoulderProject 4m
1.8.1.3. Story Time 0 routes in Boulder
1.8.1.4. Toy story 0 routes in Boulder
1.8.1.5. Head Masters Office 0 routes in Boulder
1.8.1.6. Head Mistress's Office 0 routes in Unknown
1.8.1.7. Physical Education 0 routes in Boulder

1.8.2. The Sly Old Cat 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.849566, 151.153513

description

Boulders on the east side of the river.

access issues

The boulders under the high flood mark are all public access, however i have included some above the high water mark that are gems. I tried to seek permission but due to the owners fear of legal replications, permission will not be given. However that been said there is no fence on that side of the river, no clear line of trespass and as long as the river is in eye shot (not 1km off the river) it was hinted that we would only be asked to return to the river if caught there. But please don't push it! This has taken me a long time to get this small step. Keep the river in eye shot! Its a grey area..

approach

The easiest way to cross the river in normal flow is up river in the exile area, near the high power lines its shallow.

1.8.2.1. Slabamussy 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.849642, 151.153389

description

Easy slab boulder on the side of the river.

approach

Directly up from the swimming hole at summer school on the east side.

history

One of the first boulders climbed on the MacDonald river around 2013 or earlier by the then Bendemeer boulder patrol members Anthony Townsend and Deon Heemskerk. Many flakes have fallen off during this time, sometimes resulting in spectacular falls.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slabamussymakemesohappy

Crimpy slab, grade may vary depending on how the flakes have broken. Have fun!

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Anthony Townsend, 2013

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 2013

V0 Boulder 4m
1.8.2.2. Jug over the cats head 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.849616, 151.153467

approach

Just up hill from slabamussy.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Walk Like An Eygiptian

SDS, side pull and look for the jug on the left. a little awkward but oh so much fun.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 21 Mar 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 21 Mar 2016

V1 Boulder 3m
1.8.2.3. Rats For Supper 0 routes in Boulder

description

Over hung boulder along the river

approach

From the swimming hole head up stream for thirty meters, it is distinctive.

1.8.2.4. The Muffin 0 routes in Boulder

description

Boulder with multiple cracks, mostly slab. Make sure you give it a clean the sheoak (casurina) needles make it slippery.

approach

River side, up stream 15m from Rats for supper.

1.8.2.5. Timmy Tiptoes 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.850077, 151.153411

description

Nice size boulder facing the river, with wall like face.

approach

Not far from rivers edge, you can easily see it from the muffin.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 p1

Arete

BoulderProject 4m
2 p2 BoulderProject 3m

1.9. The Polished Neck 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.847796, 151.153961

summary

Potential shallow water bouldering area.

description

Rocky elbow in the river with some interesting featured stone that has been polished, making for some difficult problems. Water can be murky after rain and i wouldn't suggest climbing them over normal flow.

approach

Park off the road, there is a grassy area suitable for a maximum of two cars.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open Project 1

Up the prow

BoulderProject 3m
2 Open Project 2

Set by Isaac Searant & Deon Heemskerk, 2016

BoulderProject 3m
3 Feel the burn

Start in the water on the huge pocket, move up to the lip and traverse around and mantle around the corner. Grades will depend on the water level, use your own discrepancy.

Set by Isaac Searant & Deon Heemskerk, 2016

FA: Isaac Searant, 2016

V1 Boulder 2m
4 Open Project 3

Set by Isaac Searant & Deon Heemskerk, 2016

BoulderProject 2m
5 Slippery nipple

Start on side pull, pull up onto good jugs and make your slippery escape. Beware of submerged rocks below. Grades will depend on the water level, use your own discrepancy.

Set by Isaac Searant & Deon Heemskerk, 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 2016

V0 Boulder 2m

1.10. The Deep Hole 63 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.844010, 151.155209

summary

Granite of varying quality

description

The deep hole area is a popular local swimming hole. It has boulders on both sides of the MacDonald river.

access issues

Is via private property, please shut the gate if you access via the north end. Owner has given permission to climb the boulders in his paddock off the the river and access the river from the watsons creek road side. Owner on the opposite side (east) of the river prefers that no one access his property. There is a fence on that side, all boulders along the river are public access and available to anyone.

approach

From Bendemeer take the watsons creek road out approximately 5km, Park either at the large boulder that splitts the fence or access through the gate another 100m along.

ethic

A lot of people access this area to swim, please take all rubbish with you. Unfortunately has a history of people doing the wrong thing and could leed to a total lock out.

1.10.1. Crystal Castle 49 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.843710, 151.154977

description

Boulder outcrop in the paddock between the deep hole and watsons creek road. The granite here is under trees so covered in moss, can be crumbly and has distinct large crystal qualities. These crystals are super sharp and brittle. An inspiring and deflating place to climb.

1.10.1.1. Pantera 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843338, 151.154912

description

Finger shredding boulder north west of yogi

approach

From the car park(northern access) head along the fence path south till you see the crystal castle boulder cluster head to the western end of the cluster and your there.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dimebag

North west side of boulder, avoid the crumbly stuff on the north side.The high crystals can be trusted.

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 19 Oct 2015

V2 Boulder 3m
1.10.1.2. Yogi 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843401, 151.154921

description

Boulder on the west side of the cluster, has a hole that a small animal lives in.

approach

From the gate veer onto the right track and follow towards cluster.. The animal hole will give it away.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 yogi traverse

On the western face up the left side and across the top.

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk & Anthony Townsend, 1 Jun 2014

V0 Boulder 3m
2 Yogi crimp

Up just to the left of animal hole

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Anthony Townsend

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Jun 2014

V0 Boulder 3m
1.10.1.3. Crystal land 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843449, 151.154836

description

First log shaped boulder next to the yogi

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 First send

Eastern end of the boulder

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 1 Jun 2014

V0 Boulder
2 and again

Sit start added by James vilimaa makes a more worth while fun little climb.

V0 Boulder 3m
3 Crystal surfer

south western corner of boulder next to tree. Avoid using the tree and boulder next to it. undercling, up and over. western corner is your way off.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 15 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 15 Nov 2015

V0+ Boulder 3m
4 Twist and shout

Between the two boulders on the south side, Use the nice side pull, in the middle of the face. Avoid using boulder behind you, as tempting as it is..

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 15 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 17 Nov 2015

V1 Boulder 3m
1.10.1.4. The log 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843476, 151.154787

description

One of three long boulders just south of the yogi boulder

approach

facing the yogi boulder head right (south) and you will see three long loaf of bread shaped boulders

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Vague familiarity

On the western face. Sit start, use the low jug and up..

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 14 Sep 2015

V1 Boulder 2m
2 In the crystals we trust

North side of boulder, just to the right of tree and vertical crack. up using the crystals.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 15 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 15 Nov 2015

V0+ Boulder 4m
1.10.1.5. Sweet Diamond 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843480, 151.154718

description

This boulder is sharp and brittle but fun as! On the south side of the log

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pockets of razor blades

Western face, super sharp and crumbly. The face itself is slightly overhung and prone to breaking off.

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 20 Sep 2015

V1 Boulder 4m
1.10.1.6. Grip het als een Vulkan 9 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843421, 151.154534

description

Roughly translated from dutch as 'Grip it like a Vulcan' you will need to apply all your strength and logic for this boulder. It stands alone, south west of the main cluster and boasts both good quality and crumbly terrible granite. Has enough to keep Human, Vulcan and all comers happy.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Whoever you are / Geggy tah

High foot start with chimney like crux, very physical start. straight up.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 17 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 3 Dec 2015

V1 Boulder 4m
2 Whip it / Devo

Same start as who ever you are but traverse right and up, no harder just less blackberry.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 17 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 17 Dec 2015

V1 Boulder 5m
3 Milkshake

Look for the sharp crystal up high and high left foot.

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Alan Ezzy, 3 Dec 2015

FA: Alan Ezzy, 18 Jan 2016

V2 Boulder 4m
4 p BoulderProject 5m
5 Wild strawberries

The rock is soft but climb is still palatable

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 17 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 19 Nov 2015

V0 Boulder 3m
6 Theophilus Thistler

Left of wild strawberries and more awkward. High feet start with reasonable but crumbly holds, will keep you on the move like a prick from a thistle.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 22 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 22 Nov 2015

V0 Boulder 2m
7 p4

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 17 Nov 2015

BoulderProject
8 VengaBus

Sit start, up using two glorious side pulls and a sharp crimpy top section. Top out to the right of upper boulder.

Set by Alan Ezzy, 18 Jan 2016

FA: Alan Ezzy, 18 Jan 2016

V6 Boulder 4m
9 mmmbop

Same start as VengaBus but with mantle finish on upper boulder.

FA: James vilimaa, 5 Oct 2016

V6 Boulder 4m
1.10.1.7. un montón de musgo 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843609, 151.154805

description

Small Boulder just south of the center of the cluster. Boulder has lots of features

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stick fight

South face of the boulder, sit start avoiding using mantle too much.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015

VB Boulder 3m
2 the lobsters claw

On the north side of the boulder easy slab face

Set by Sam Lobsey, 15 Nov 2015

FA: Sam Lobsey, 15 Nov 2015

VB Boulder 2m
3 Free range crustacean

Traverse from the start of the lobsters claw right to the base of the crack and up

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 15 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk & Sam Lobsey, 15 Nov 2015

VB Boulder 2m
4 Free range crustacean alterniative

Same traverse start but use feet only on left hand side of crack on the way up.

Set by Tiarni Heemskerk, 17 Nov 2015

FA: Tiarni Heemskerk, 17 Nov 2015

VB Boulder 2m
1.10.1.8. Diamond in the moss 6 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843579, 151.154853

description

Right in the center of cluster and top of the incline. Just west of the crystal tower, boulder is long and split in two(length ways), with another small boulder on the east end.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 two step

Super easy little line with plenty of features, sit start if you want.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015

VB Boulder 2m
2 grab a hold son!

Sit start on the corner of the main boulder, up using the corner and undercling

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015

V0+ Boulder 3m
3 Lichen eater

Just to the right of the tree on the main face. Tricky little sharp crimp start then up to those gorgeous features.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015

V0+ Boulder 3m
4 Crystal detective

Right of Lichen eater, tuff start using some crystals to pull on.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015

V0 Boulder 3m
5 Crystal detective variation

Start the same as Crystal detective but traverse across face to Lichen eater.

BoulderProject 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Beginners revenge

South side of boulder, sit start.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015

VB Boulder 2m
1.10.1.9. The Draw Bridge 6 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843636, 151.154917

description

Boulder to the west of Crystal tower that is leaning on it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Front door

Easy slab face with plenty of features, also the easiest point of existing the boulder.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015

VB Boulder 2m
2 The secret ladder

High foot start, don't use small boulder underneath. Up onto the sloped mantle and then leg over onto the slab face.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015

V0+ Boulder 3m
3 The secret ladder variation

Same start but after mantle continue straight up the face.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015

V1 Boulder 3m
4 Ladder traverse

Start the same as Front door but traverse right to secret ladder alternative and up.

Set by Sam Lobsey, 14 Dec 2015

BoulderProject 3m
5 Raspberry runner

Launch onto the mantle then up the slabby face to the raspberry runners.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015

V0 Boulder 3m
6 Raspberry runner variation

same start but once on the mantle veer left up the larger slab.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015

BoulderProject 4m
1.10.1.10. Crystal Tower 6 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843654, 151.154975

description

One of largest boulders, in the center of the cluster.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rapunzel Rapunzel!

Highball! Up the 2m crack and then up the obvious line on east side of boulder. Need plenty of pads and spotters

BoulderProject 6m
2 Rapunzel traverse

Left to right, starting left of the vertical crack.

V1 Boulder 2m
3 Rapunzel traverse reverse

Right to left

Set by Deon Heemskerk, Jack & Anothony Townsend

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015

V1 Boulder 2m
4 Jacks cracken highball

up the obvious feature on north side of boulder, ordinary landing.

Set by Jack, 25 Oct 2015

FA: Jack, 25 Oct 2015

V0+ Boulder 5m
5 Easy step

Corner of the boulder, easy up and easy down climb from other routes.

Set by Jack, 15 Sep 2015

FA: Jack, 15 Sep 2015

VB Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Love thy nature

On south west corner of boulder, plenty of crystals to use on this one.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 28 Nov 2015

V1 Boulder 4m
1.10.1.11. Playtime 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843500, 151.154990

description

Small obelisk shaped boulder west of the crystal tower and east of yogi and crystal land boulders

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Leg up

On the face facing east (river side) use obvious low jug. avoid moving right onto the slab face.

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 30 Oct 2015

V0 Boulder 3m
1.10.1.12. Princess boulder 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843589, 151.155018

description

Small boulder just north of the Crystal tower. Great warm up, walk off boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quick step

Right of the tree on the north face

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 19 Oct 2015

V0- Boulder 2m
2 slow waltz

left of the tree on the north face

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 19 Oct 2015

V0 Boulder 2m
1.10.1.13. Poetic Tragedy 3 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843718, 151.155092

description

Large boulder just east of the Crystal tower, covered in features with skin ripping big crystals common to the boulders here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jabberwocky traverse L-R

Sit start on the little boulder in front, move along the to the obvious step like feature.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 9 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 9 Nov 2015

VB Boulder 2m
2 Jabberwocky traverse R-L

Use the obvious step up and move along to a sit finish on the small boulder infront

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 9 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 9 Nov 2015

VB Boulder 2m
3 spall tourture

easy start up low features then onto the mossy slab. Crystals prone to breaking, pads and spotters recommended.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, 9 Nov 2015

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 9 Nov 2015

V0 Boulder 5m
1.10.1.14. Little warm up 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.844036, 151.154973

description

Stand alone boulder between the south east corner of Crystal castle outcrop and the Macdonald river.

approach

Just off the track that runs along the river to dry creek bed

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 warm1

easy peasy up the river side face

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Anthony Townsend, 1 Jun 2014

V0- Boulder 2m
2 warm2

West side of the boulder sit start

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 14 Sep 2015

V0- Boulder 2m

1.10.2. Deep hole island 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.844002, 151.156255

description

Group of boulders next to the deep hole. The island is divided by a stagnate pool, dry creek bed on one side and the Macdonald river the other.

approach

From the south side of the river, follow the rough track till the dry creek bed and cross before the stagnate pool. From the north cross the fence and follow the river south, once you see a rock that often has a ladder on it to jump into the deep hole you are there.

1.10.2.1. Acacia Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843822, 151.156381

description

Boulder on the north side of the cluster with a wattle growing out of it.

approach

from the north walk along the side of the river, or from crystal castle walk pass the stagnate pool towards the river. From the south cross the dry creek bed towards the river.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hayfever

north face next to the wattle with many features

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 28 Sep 2015

V0- Boulder 3m
2 Slabby crystals

East side of the boulder under the large sheoak

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Sep 2015

V0 Boulder 4m
1.10.2.2. Shake ya rump 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843898, 151.156434

description

Large boulder just south east of the acacia, use a ladder or help of a friend to get off this one.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mantle king

launch up the mantle, then the slippery slab.

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 20 Sep 2015

V0 Boulder 4m
2 Rump shaking slap

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Jack

FA: Jack, 4 Oct 2015

V1 Boulder 4m
1.10.2.3. Little frog 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843862, 151.156316

description

Small boulder just south west of the acacia boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Froggylegs

Harder than it looks, involves a high foot and a bit of trust.

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Tiarni Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Sep 2015

V0 Boulder 2m
1.10.2.4. Who needs skin 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843931, 151.156351

description

Unusual shaped boulder on the south side of cluster Be prepared to have to chimney off, not an easy descend.

approach

Easiest path is on the east (river) side of the cluster

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hand exfoliator

Big and bold, no feet down low, use any crystal you can find. Decent holds high.

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 26 Sep 2015

V2 Boulder 4m
1.10.2.5. Buddhas belly 1 route in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843934, 151.156411

description

Large boulder on the river (east) side of cluster between shake ya rump and who needs skin.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 buddhi

Set by Deon Heemskerk & Jack

BoulderProject 4m
1.10.2.6. Mozzie Bait 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.843928, 151.156578

description

Small boulder next to river north east of main cluster. Right next to the deep hole.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fern feet 1

Easy little crimpy slab problem right next to the river.

Set by Deon Heemskerk

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 6 Oct 2015

VB Boulder 2m
2 Fern feet 2

Avoid the crack to the left and just use features on slab face.

VB BoulderProject 2m

1.10.3. Deep hole east side 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -30.845046, 151.155560

description

Boulders on the east side of the river.

access issues

Remember that once past the high flood mark you have entered private property. Owner of this land has not given permission but hasn't ruled out climbing there either. Rule of thumb, keep the river in eye shot and all should be ok.

approach

The best and shallowest spot to cross the Macdonald is near The Terrance where the river is split in two. Not a good idea to try cross when in flood or above normal flow.

1.10.3.1. Mario Brothers 5 routes in Boulder
Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -30.844785, 151.155523

description

Small overhung boulder on river side, near the bend of the river

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blood Donation

Sit start, straight up on the generous jugs.Core work out and plenty of opportunity to draw blood on the sharp crystals.

Set by Seamus Traynor, Isaac Searant & Deon Heemskerk, 12 Dec 2016

FA: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Dec 2016

V0 Boulder 2m
2 Camel back hump junior / Sit start Camel back hump

Sit start with low big move and slightly to the right and finish the same as Camel back hump

Set by Deon Heemskerk, Isaac Searant & Seamus Traynor

FA: Archie Eather, 14 Jan 2018

V3 Boulder 2m
3 Cutting loose

Sit start same as Blood Donation but move to the right avoiding the highest main jug on Blood Donation and onto the higher face.

Set by Deon Heemskerk, Isaac Searant & Seamus Traynor, 12 Dec 2016

FA: Archie Eather, 14 Jan 2018

V1 Boulder 2m
4 Freddie's Traverse

Sit start. Then traverse left to right across the face

Set by Deon Heemskerk, Isaac Searant & Seamus Traynor, 12 Dec 2016

FA: Freddie Eather, 14 Jan 2018

V0+ Boulder 2m
5 Camel back hump

The traverse and then the hardest overhung face.

Set by Isaac Searant, Deon Heemskerk & Seamus Traynor, 12 Dec 2016

FA: Archie Eather, 14 Jan 2018

V3 Boulder 3m

1.10.4. The Terrace 0 routes in Area

description

Small outcrop just north and down stream from the deep hole. Very mossy, sharp mostly slab granite.

access issues

Easiest to cross the river where it splits in two, much shallower. Do not try to cross the river when in flood or dirty, its very quick and slippery. PLEASE do not go over the fence or past the high flood zone! owner of the land here does not like people on his property.

1.10.4.1. Brier rose wall 0 routes in Boulder

description

A group of boulders next to each other that for a wall facing the river. Keep an eye out for brier rose and blackberry they will rip you and your pads apart.

1.10.4.2. Features plus 0 routes in Boulder

description

Stand alone boulder right next to a tree, has plenty of features and good landings.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
VB Blackberry hold Boulder 2m 1.3.1.3. Viewing flatform
E Boulder 3m 1.6.3. Split Personality
Free range crustacean Boulder 2m 1.10.1.7. un montón de musgo
Free range crustacean alterniative Boulder 2m 1.10.1.7. un montón de musgo
Stick fight Boulder 3m 1.10.1.7. un montón de musgo
the lobsters claw Boulder 2m 1.10.1.7. un montón de musgo
Beginners revenge Boulder 2m 1.10.1.8. Diamond in the moss
two step Boulder 2m 1.10.1.8. Diamond in the moss
Front door Boulder 2m 1.10.1.9. The Draw Bridge
Easy step Boulder 3m 1.10.1.10. Crystal Tower
Jabberwocky traverse L-R Boulder 2m 1.10.1.13. Poetic Tragedy
Jabberwocky traverse R-L Boulder 2m 1.10.1.13. Poetic Tragedy
Fern feet 1 Boulder 2m 1.10.2.6. Mozzie Bait
Fern feet 2 BoulderProject 2m 1.10.2.6. Mozzie Bait
9 Gear wrecker Top rope 6m 1.7.1.2. Split Solitude
V0- a traverse Boulder 3m 1.1.1.3. Cellar doors
the alternative Boulder 3m 1.1.1.3. Cellar doors
the ladder Boulder 3m 1.1.1.3. Cellar doors
the tennis shot Boulder 3m 1.1.1.3. Cellar doors
Vanilla Boulder 2m 1.2.1.1. Ice cream scoop
Lazy Sunday Boulder 1.3.1.5. Lazy Sunday
Puppies Boulder 4m 1.4.2. C.J.Parker
tower ladder Boulder 3m 1.4.6. The Tower
For love of the jug Boulder 4m 1.6.3. Split Personality
Privet Itch Boulder 3m 1.6.3. Split Personality
Lomandra Face Boulder 3m 1.7.1.1. Tiger Moth and Horse Fly
Glass corner Boulder 3m 1.7.1.4. Marshmallow
Quick step Boulder 2m 1.10.1.12. Princess boulder
warm1 Boulder 2m 1.10.1.14. Little warm up
warm2 Boulder 2m 1.10.1.14. Little warm up
Hayfever Boulder 3m 1.10.2.1. Acacia Boulder
V0 Dunducketty Dude Boulder 4m 1.1.2.2. Dunducketty
Cookies and cream Boulder 2m 1.2.1.1. Ice cream scoop
Almost Envy Boulder 3m 1.3.1.2. Freaky Frigette
Beach umbrellas Boulder 4m 1.4.2. C.J.Parker
the drum roll Boulder 3m 1.4.4. "I'm Always Here"
Uranium Boulder 2m 1.6.1. Warm up
Crowd Pleaser Boulder 4m 1.6.3. Split Personality
Spading Boulder 3m 1.6.4. Shovel head
Granite White Shark Boulder 3m 1.6.6. Hidden
Traverse L to R Boulder 2m 1.8.1.1. Teachers pet
Traverse R to L Boulder 2m 1.8.1.1. Teachers pet
Lesson one Boulder 3m 1.8.1.2. The class room
Slabamussymakemesohappy Boulder 4m 1.8.2.1. Slabamussy
Slippery nipple Boulder 2m 1.9. The Polished Neck
Yogi crimp Boulder 3m 1.10.1.2. Yogi
yogi traverse Boulder 3m 1.10.1.2. Yogi
First send Boulder 1.10.1.3. Crystal land
and again Boulder 3m 1.10.1.3. Crystal land
Theophilus Thistler Boulder 2m 1.10.1.6. Grip het als een Vulkan
Wild strawberries Boulder 3m 1.10.1.6. Grip het als een Vulkan
Crystal detective Boulder 3m 1.10.1.8. Diamond in the moss
Raspberry runner Boulder 3m 1.10.1.9. The Draw Bridge
Leg up Boulder 3m 1.10.1.11. Playtime
slow waltz Boulder 2m 1.10.1.12. Princess boulder
spall tourture Boulder 5m 1.10.1.13. Poetic Tragedy
Slabby crystals Boulder 4m 1.10.2.1. Acacia Boulder
Mantle king Boulder 4m 1.10.2.2. Shake ya rump
Froggylegs Boulder 2m 1.10.2.3. Little frog
Blood Donation Boulder 2m 1.10.3.1. Mario Brothers
V0+ Mitch Buchannon Boulder 4m 1.4.1. Season 1
slade Boulder 3m 1.4.5. Summer's dream
Anger management Boulder 1.6.1. Warm up
Captain Jack Boulder 4m 1.6.2. Loaves of Bread
A little right Boulder 4m 1.6.3. Split Personality
Apple Picker Boulder 3m 1.6.5. Granny Smith
Jugs in bendy Boulder 3m 1.7.1.1. Tiger Moth and Horse Fly
Jugs in bendy 2 Boulder 3m 1.7.1.1. Tiger Moth and Horse Fly
L to R and R to L Boulder 1.8.1.1. Teachers pet
Crystal surfer Boulder 3m 1.10.1.3. Crystal land
In the crystals we trust Boulder 4m 1.10.1.4. The log
Lichen eater Boulder 3m 1.10.1.8. Diamond in the moss
grab a hold son! Boulder 3m 1.10.1.8. Diamond in the moss
The secret ladder Boulder 3m 1.10.1.9. The Draw Bridge
Jacks cracken highball Boulder 5m 1.10.1.10. Crystal Tower
Freddie's Traverse Boulder 2m 1.10.3.1. Mario Brothers
V1 Floki's revenge Boulder 4m 1.1.1.2. swamp view
Pick your battles Boulder 1.3.1.2. Freaky Frigette
Crystals Are Not Just Skin Deep Boulder 3m 1.3.1.8. Crystals In The Blood
Don't drop the soap Boulder 4m 1.4.3. The locker room
Slow motion Boulder 5m 1.4.3. The locker room
Towel whip Boulder 5m 1.4.3. The locker room
Yeast Boulder 4m 1.6.2. Loaves of Bread
Walk Like An Eygiptian Boulder 3m 1.8.2.2. Jug over the cats head
Feel the burn Boulder 2m 1.9. The Polished Neck
Twist and shout Boulder 3m 1.10.1.3. Crystal land
Vague familiarity Boulder 2m 1.10.1.4. The log
Pockets of razor blades Boulder 4m 1.10.1.5. Sweet Diamond
Whip it Boulder 5m 1.10.1.6. Grip het als een Vulkan
Whoever you are Boulder 4m 1.10.1.6. Grip het als een Vulkan
The secret ladder variation Boulder 3m 1.10.1.9. The Draw Bridge
Love thy nature Boulder 4m 1.10.1.10. Crystal Tower
Rapunzel traverse Boulder 2m 1.10.1.10. Crystal Tower
Rapunzel traverse reverse Boulder 2m 1.10.1.10. Crystal Tower
Rump shaking slap Boulder 4m 1.10.2.2. Shake ya rump
Cutting loose Boulder 2m 1.10.3.1. Mario Brothers
V2 Dimebag Boulder 3m 1.10.1.1. Pantera
Milkshake Boulder 4m 1.10.1.6. Grip het als een Vulkan
Hand exfoliator Boulder 4m 1.10.2.4. Who needs skin
V3 Camel back hump Boulder 3m 1.10.3.1. Mario Brothers
Camel back hump junior Boulder 2m 1.10.3.1. Mario Brothers
V5 Cookie Cutter Boulder 5m 1.3.1.2. Freaky Frigette
V6 VengaBus Boulder 4m 1.10.1.6. Grip het als een Vulkan
mmmbop Boulder 4m 1.10.1.6. Grip het als een Vulkan
project BoulderProject 1.1.1.1. The fergie seat
? p1 BoulderProject 5m 1.2.1.3. Stone Cutter's
p2 BoulderProject 4m 1.2.1.3. Stone Cutter's
p3 BoulderProject 4m 1.2.1.3. Stone Cutter's
p1 Boulder 5m 1.3.1.1. Slabsville
Open proj BoulderProject 5m 1.3.1.2. Freaky Frigette
project BoulderProject 4m 1.4.1. Season 1
Project BoulderProject 3m 1.6.3. Split Personality
project BoulderProject 1.6.4. Shovel head
Project 1 BoulderProject 4m 1.6.6. Hidden
p1 BoulderProject 4m 1.7.1.1. Tiger Moth and Horse Fly
project Top ropeProject 7m 1.7.1.2. Split Solitude
project BoulderProject 2m 1.7.1.3. Little nugget
p1 BoulderProject 4m 1.8.1.2. The class room
p1 BoulderProject 4m 1.8.2.5. Timmy Tiptoes
p2 BoulderProject 3m 1.8.2.5. Timmy Tiptoes
Open Project 1 BoulderProject 3m 1.9. The Polished Neck
Open Project 2 BoulderProject 3m 1.9. The Polished Neck
Open Project 3 BoulderProject 2m 1.9. The Polished Neck
p BoulderProject 5m 1.10.1.6. Grip het als een Vulkan
p4 BoulderProject 1.10.1.6. Grip het als een Vulkan
Crystal detective variation BoulderProject 3m 1.10.1.8. Diamond in the moss
Ladder traverse BoulderProject 3m 1.10.1.9. The Draw Bridge
Raspberry runner variation BoulderProject 4m 1.10.1.9. The Draw Bridge
Rapunzel Rapunzel! BoulderProject 6m 1.10.1.10. Crystal Tower
buddhi BoulderProject 4m 1.10.2.5. Buddhas belly
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