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Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

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Approach

Take the Grafton/Dorrigo road from Armidale. Turn right onto the Kempsey Rd. just past the Wollomombi Bridge. Continue along this till you come to the turn off to the Oaky Hydro-Electric power station. At the power station is a vertical railway line. The climb on the falls is upstream of this, access being down the road near the railway or (gulp) abseil the falls. Only one climb exists here, Magnificent Obsession.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: On the left-hand side of the falls, at the base of the obvious slab. Only about 5 or 6 pitches are of any standard and the rest involves scrambling.

  1. ?m. Traverse across to the left hand-side of the falls to the slab.

  2. 24m Up the 4m wide ramp to belay on tree.

  3. 18m Up and to the left to a natural belay.

  4. 43m Scramble up the watercourse.

  5. 40m Continue scrambling up to the pool.

  6. 40m Go left and up sloping walls to a tree.

  7. 30m Scramble up the loose rock to the right.

  8. 24m Go up and to the right to tree belay.

  9. 15 Up and traverse right and up to the nose.

  10. Traverse horizontally and then drop to the watercourse above the waterfall.

  11. 24m. Scramble up and go across the watercourse below the left-hand waterfall.

  12. 61m. Walk up the ramps. (Note: the top part of the falls is split by a fair sized bluff.)

  13. A chimney and traverse to beneath the right hand water chute. Not to be confused with an obvious chimney between a detached block and the gorge wall. This should bring you to the top.

FA: E.Cantrill, R.Jones (alt. leads), J.Street & J.Griffith, 1969

There is a slab opposite the falls sloping at 70 degrees at the bottom. Start in the chimney left around from the slab. Straight up for 13m then traverse left for 3m. Walk around the bottom.

FA: N. Beynon & J. Street, 1969

An appropriately named climb opposite the falls. Start opposite the falls in the over hung corner, about 7m of which is a crack line going up the slab.

  1. 23m - Up the crack and belay above and to the right the small overhand

  2. 36m - Move up against and continue past the ledge to the third tree and belay

  3. 43m - Up the crack 2m to the left. Up the overhand, and continue for 16, in the corner (crux). Belay in the corner on the rotten rock

  4. 30m - Move up the face for 7m on loose rock and then traverse right on the buttress, continue up

  5. 30m - Continue up. Belay on the tree on the other side of the ridge

FA: N. Hughes & N. Beynon, 1971

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