Routes in Northern Tablelands

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,733 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Stonehenge North-East cluster
V0 NE1The Nose

Up the prominent nose, easy but exposed all the way to top. Jump off NE2

V1 NE2

Slightly harder face climb

V0 NE3

Nice face climb

V1 NE4

SDS, to pinch, under cling and then smear to top right

V0 NE5

Start at horizontal crack, crimps and smear with good hold right at the back

V0 NE8 Handle With Care
Boulder 3m
V0 NE9 Rabbit Trap

Crimps up onto slab. Watch for rabbit holes when you fall

V0 NE10

Nice crimps up slab. For bonus points try the no hands bridging hopping problem up just to the right

V1 NE11 Ramp Traverse

Several mantle problems

V2 NE12

crimps, then verticle rail to top

V2 NE13

Sharp crimps up arete then awkward mantle

V4 NE14 The Wave

Jump to crimps, traverse right and then mantle

V6 NE14V The Wave Direct

Burly SDS to NE14

V1 NE15

V shaped match then slap to top

V1 NE16

Starts at what looks like a chipped hold

V6 NE17

Thin ledges to shallow right pocket, left pinch and then up to the right

Boulder 5m
V2 NE18

Loose easy flake - choose your own adventure

V0 NE20
V1 NE21

Thin slab

V5 Direct
Boulder 3m
V5 NE22

Hard thin over hung moves

Stonehenge Central Cluster
V5 C1

Lots of thin sharp stuff facing the wrong way and then a nice cresent way up high

V1 C2

Has 'Gents' painted on the rock

V1 C3

Start at flanged crack and reach up to cresent, don't use the jug to the right

V0 C4
V0 C5

Choose your own slab adventure!

V0 C6

Choose your own slab adventure!

V0 C7

Choose your own slab adventure!

V0 C8

Choose your own slab adventure!

V0 C9

Choose your own slab adventure!

V0 C10

Choose your own slab adventure!

V4 What a Silly Goat

Starts at the far left of the undercling. Use small edges and smear points to Traverse over the face. Finishes around the corner where the slab can be stood on.

Optionally complete the full circuit around the boulder. ~V0 for this part.

Aggressive shoes will help. Consider filing toenails more than usual as most footholds only allow for toe tips.

FA: Jared C, 26 Aug 2019

Boulder 6m
Stonehenge South-West cluster
V1 SW7

Nice holds, bad landing

V3 SW8
V1 SW9
Boulder 3m
V0 SW10
Boulder 3m
V0 SW11
V0 SW12
V0 SW13
Boulder 3m
V0 SW14
Boulder 3m
V0 SW15
Boulder 3m
V1 SW16

SDS with two shallow monos wide apart, up to cresent

Stonehenge South-West cluster Butt Face Boulder
V1 Butt Crack

Sit Start. Into crack and up.

Boulder 2m
V0 SW5


V3 Organ Donor

Sit Start. Hug boulder using obviious underclings and side-pulls and work your way up awkwardly using laybacks and toe/heel jams to SW5 matle features.

Boulder 2m
V0 Cunningham Jnr.

Sit start and mantle onto start holds. Up over buldge on crimps.

Boulder 2m

Start at flake as for OHC but mantle onto it and up

V1 Opera House Crack

Sit start layback off large flake. Traverse Left into base of chimney crack. Up crack to top.

Boulder 3m
Stonehenge South-West cluster Moby Dick Boulder
V6 Blow Hole Ascension
Boulder 6m
V5 Whale Scale

Glued on hold near top.

Boulder 5m
V0 Moby Dick Traverse

Traverse crack from far right until left arete.

Boulder 10m
V1 MDT extension

At the end of the traverse grab the jug above the traverse line on the arete and mantle to top

Boulder 4m
V3 SW6
V6/7 Free Willy

Sit start low and left on obvious jug, move up and right through features to pocket. Continue right into crimps in dish, big moves up and right then mantle. Probably done a while ago.

FA: Alan Ezzy

Boulder 4m
Stonehenge South-West cluster Whale Tale
V1 Whale Tale

Awkward bulge

V1 Surly Steve and the finger bang

Sit start. Finger bang surly Steve in his rocky eyeballs to glory.

FA: Tim

FFA: Tim Gray, 9 Aug 2015

Boulder 3m
Stonehenge South East Cluster Split in Half Boulder
V1 S10

Pull down NOT out!

V2 - 4 S10.1

Climb the left arete.

Boulder 4m
V7 Break Free

Climb the right arete.

FA: Alan Ezzy

Boulder 4m
V0 S11

Using only left arete.

V0 S12

Using only right arete.

V6 S17

Start looks impossible but decent further up

V6 S18
Stonehenge South East Cluster Mushroom Boulder
V2 S1

Sit start under the lip of mushroom.

V0 S2
Boulder 2m
V1 S3
Boulder 2m
Stonehenge South East Cluster
V0 S4
V0 S5
V0 S6

Easy slab

V4 S7


V0 S8

Trend left

V0 S9

Same start as S8 but reach right to jug

V0 S13
V0 S14
V0 S15
V0 S16
Boulder 2m
Stonehenge One Lost Chossy Boi
V1 The legend of John Von Bonithan's pants

Stand start 1m left of Not Tommy's Rock on slabby feet. Don't touch the boulder to the left. Trend left to gain a delicious slopey jug, pull out the top and bask in the awesome view of the epic private land boulders next door.

FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb 2020

Boulder 3m
V2 Not Tommy's Rock

Stand start on crimps right of JVB's. Don't touch the boulder to the right. Send the clean line trending slightly right up the large bulge on delicate slabby feet. Top out at the highest point.

FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb 2020

Boulder 3m
V3 Xanthoparmelia Arboretum

This choss magnet will probably be saturated in lichen and moss, don't fight mother nature, just embrace it. There is a distinct lack of good feet after the crux which is getting established on the wall to start with. A good ol' fashioned pistol squat should do the trick though.

FA: Aidan..., 18 Feb 2020

Boulder 3m
V2/3 Carpe Diem - "It's like Latin for YOLO"

Stand start on with feet on fallen flake in grass matched on good crimps. Work up in search of a shallow 2 finger pocket hidden in the moss. The hollow flake top will probably pop off soon enough solidifying a V3 grading.

FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb 2020

Boulder 4m
V0 Paddy's POE-TATE-OHS!

Stand start with slabby smear feet. follow the obvious line up. FA in runners.

FA: Aidan..., 9 Feb 2020

Boulder 2m
VB- Chossy Boi Downclimb

The slabby down climb. In runners the ascent might just qualify for a VB-. Be sure to check if there is some vodka stashed under the block on top.

FA: Aidan..., 9 Feb 2020

Boulder 2m
V5/6 Bulls on Parade

The cleanest line on this rock, this project has the potential to be an excellent line. Intended as a stand start on opposing side pull crimps and super obvious foot hold. Move left around the buldge to link onto XA for the top out.

BoulderProject 6m
Dangars Gorge Dangars Falls
11 Dreadnought

Start: In the corner to the left of the orange pillar. This climb was put up by three climbers who became lost while attempting to do Action. The corner has a lot of loose rock. Not recommended. As for Action from pitch 2 onwards.

  1. 46m. Straight up the corner for approx. 41m then traverse left for 5m. to a large ledge.

2-5. 104m Traverse left along obvious ledge, then up up and for Action (see next route).

FA: N.Hughes, N.Beynon & J.Street, 1970

Trad 150m
14 Action

Start: The classic of the cliff. Many variants are possible. Start near the corner of Dreadnought at an old piton, a couple meters left of the orange column.

  1. 30m. Straight up the steps. Belay on the most convenient ledge.

  2. 50m. Continue straight up. You will eventually come to a slightly overhanging short crack corner. Up this, onto ledge then continue up to large ledge at the base of a layback crack corner. Belay.

  3. 50m. Layback/bridge up the corner, then move across to the slightly vegetated wall above, and continue up the wall. Belay wherever convenient.

  4. 35m. Continue straight up till you can move in right , behind a large block. Belay.

  5. 30m.+ (crux) Up the steep wall beside the water course, picking the easiest line to the top. The exit is awkward and exposed.

FA: D.McLean & D.Mills, 1968

Trad 150m
16 Goldfinger

Start: Can only be done when the falls stop flowing. Left of Action is a rib, then a channel the main water course. Goldfinger goes up this channel, then swings right to join Action at approx. 2/3rds height. The grade may be much harder as no-one has yet done a second ascent. The original description, like this one, is very vague. Good luck.

  1. 40m. Up the channel left of the rib.
  2. 30m. Slightly steeper now. Sparse protection. Continue straight up choosing the line of least resistance.
  3. 20m. Continue upwards till you are able to move right to join the last three pitches of Action. 4.5.6. 110m. As for Action.

FA: J.Davis & D.McLean, 1965

Trad 200m
13 Slippery When Wet

Start: Moving left from Goldfinger the next obvious feature is a major corner. This is the start for Slippery When Wet (goes diagonally right) and Toecap. Dangars Falls dries completely usually once a year. This climb, like Goldfinger, can only be climbed when completely dry.

  1. 33m. Up rib (15m) then traverse right (6m.) and up to ledge below steep wall (rusty piton).
  2. 18m. Diagonally up and right, then traverse right and up corner with thin crack to very large ledge (another rusty piton).
  3. 22m. Diagonally up and right, then straight up to belay in small corner (yet another rusty piton).
  4. 28m. Diagonally up and right, then straight up corner, then right onto nose, then right into second corner, up corner then traverse right to belay on ledge 6m. left of Action.
  5. 30m. Diagonally up left across slabs then to base of wall, traverse left and down slightly, then up fine, left diagonal crack to belay in sentry box.
  6. 23m. Up diagonally right crack line, then diagonally right again to corner, left around projections.
  7. 18m.The line of least resistance to top.

FA: Al Stephens & G.Francis (alt leads), 1980

Trad 170m
13 Toecap

Start: As for S.W.W. The rib. Avoid any yellow rock ! Its rotten...Variant starts are possible to the left.

  1. 45m. Up left of rib, then onto rib, up slabs to wall, traverse 5m. to left, then up corner to large ledge, then scramble easily up to ledge below steep wall.
  2. 40m. Diagonally left onto slabs, up slabs to obvious corner.
  3. 45m. Up corner, traverse left along ledge to belay stance.
  4. 40m. Rising traverse to right (poor protection), then to ledge.
  5. 30m. Up wall and scramble to top.

FA: R.Harden & D.McLean, 1965

Trad 200m
9 Toecap Variant
Trad 52m
10 Kneecap

Start: At the base of a ramp below first pool opposite the main falls

  1. 34m. Up towards vertical cracks, step right and continue up to right, to a spiky ledge. Belay.
  2. 32m. Traverse right to bottom of v-shaped gully. Up wall on right, traverse right under small overhang. Belay
  3. 14m.Up corner or wall to top.

FA: M.Thomas & V.Galer, 1966

Trad 80m
12 Nightcap

Start: 15m. right of Kneecap.

  1. 30m. Traverse along and up ramp, moving up to base of wall on right.
  2. 15m. Up to right, across wall.
  3. 30m. Up to top of small gully.

FA: M.Thomas & J.Street, 1968

Trad 75m
12 Copperhead

Start: This is a direct start to Nightcap. No details available.

FA: P.Prior & J.Kelman, 1974

Trad 20m
18 Foolscap

Start; The next major line right of Nightcap. A crack through a roof. A real adrenalin booster.

  1. 25m. (crux) Slab up to left of roof, swing right and up to base of roof, surmount roof then up crack and then step right to belay ledge.
  2. 40m. Up incipient crack directly above ledge to tree belay (trend slightly to left).
  3. 40m. Right, and up vegetated gully to obvious wide crack, continue up to suitable tree belay.
  4. 25m. Take the easiest line to tree belay (trending right).
  5. 50m. Straight up wall, then scrambling, climbing to tree belay.
  6. 50m. Take easiest line, scrambling and climbing to top.

FA: B.Birchall & G.Croft, 1981

Trad 230m
20 Total Control

Start: The line right of Foolscap. A crack through a small roof with a thin crack corner above. Paul put a Friend in a vertical, near parallel groove-gave it a tug to test it...the Friend slid straight out, much to his horror. He later returned with Hexes.

  1. 25m. (crux) Up slab to base of roof, around roof and delicately up corner, moving slightly right in thinnest section, to belay ledge.
  2. 40m. As for pitch 2 of Foolscap.
  3. Either walk off leftwards or continue as for Foolscap.

FA: P.Bayne, M.Colyvan (alt leads) G.Croft & Mar., 1981

Trad 65m
17 Caprice

Start: The next main line right of Total Control.

  1. 22m. Slightly leftward up slabs to wall, traverse right around nose and up ramp to small ledge at base of large corner (protection poor).
  2. 16m. Up corner and through short off-width to small ledge (crux).
  3. 25m. Up corner 8m. then traverse right into smaller corner and delicately up over bulges (loose rock) to base of wall.
  4. 40m. Up onto ledge, then up corner and onto wall on right,diagonally leftwards and up more easily to belay tree.
  5. 37m Scramble up slabs to trees.

FA: B.Birchall & G.Francis (alt leads), 1981

Trad 140m
Dangars Gorge Dynomight Buttress
20 Incremental Creep

Start; A superb layback crack, starts on a ledge 5m. up.

FA: Paul Bayne & Brian Birchall, 1982

Trad 15m
20 Dynomight

Start: The finger crack through steps.

12m. Up crack through the overhanging steps and join the line to the right at half height.

FA: Paul Bayne & Brian Birchall, 1982

Trad 12m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,733 routes.

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