Routes in Northern Tablelands

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,745 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
18 Spinal Contortions
Unknown 12m
Western Gara Gorge
21 Where Eagles Dare

A classy 3 pitch arete

FA: Chris Dale, John Lattanzio & Brian Birchall, 1983

Unknown 3
Bluff Rock
12 Speleo Blues

Start: In the chimney on the NW side of the northern half of the King Pin.

Up in three way chimney and onto large chock block. Diagonally up around leftward spiralling traverse to top of blocks.

FA: Joe Friend & Rod McClymont, 1978

Unknown 25m
Western Gara Gorge
19 Mon Repos

A bulgy slabby wall 50m right of the main wall

FA: Stuart Camps & Scott Camps, 1984

Unknown 50m
Bluff Rock
waterfall arete project
Upper Gara Gorge
24 Stone Circle
Unknown 50m
Bluff Rock
23 Sweet Dreams


Unknown 60m
Western Gara Gorge
27 project

hasnt been freed yet, matt rizzuto was bloody close

FA: Gordon Low

UnknownProject 12m
Upper Gara Gorge
Wollomombi Falls Rap Route

Although not technically a climbing route, the abseiling/rappelling route of Wollomombi Falls deserves it's own description. It can be used to access any of the routes in the Gorge. Follow the walking track across Wollomombi Creek to the lookout overlooking the top of the falls, on the east side. Walk about 50m back to the start of the metal railing and scramble left down a small ridge to the main pool at the top of the falls.

Depending on the water level you can make a very exposed jump across the outlet of the pool as it drains over the falls or swim. Keep rock hopping/scrambling for another 30-50m towards the ridge, staying high. During high water levels, this may entail getting wet. You head down a gully off the back of the top pool and then down at least 20-30m to find the chains near a small bush.

  1. 20m The first rap is quite short to reduce rope drag and ends on a decent ledge. From the Chains Rap on the Northern side (left facing out) of the small ledge below the chains.

  2. 45m to chains at a semi-hanging belay

  3. 20m to a hanging belay (spectacular position)

  4. 50m over a large overhang to low angled terrain.

  5. 30m Either scramble down from here or make another rappel (preferred if wet, which it usually is) from one of several anchors, to the creek bed.

Unknown 170m, 5
Wollomombi Falls
20 Crazy Critter

"At Doctors Creek near Armidale, Killip and Stascewski were again active to force the bold route Crazy Critter 20 which could be an area classic"

FA: Bob Killip & Staszewski, 1976

Doctors Creek
Unknown 35m
Upper Gara Gorge
Spider terrace approach
Western Gara Gorge
Western Gara Gorge
24 Tuggin Mutton

A hard bouldery short route.

Start: From the top abseil down to the base of the chimney between the dome and the main cliff (on the left side). It is the steep slab just left of the chimney.

Up slab past two bolts

FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987

Unknown 12m, 2
Western Gara Gorge
12 Retired Hippies and Young Punks
Ebor Gorge
Epic Mega Death
21 Short Back and Slides

Start: The seam/corner that goes straight up above the start of ‘Iron in the Soul’.

  1. 35m Up corner system to belay on ledge with bolt and nut.

  2. 15m (crux) Up corner to bolt. Step right and up slab past another halt to top.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Brian Birchall, 1985

Unknown 80m, 2
Western Gara Gorge
Descent ramp

Climbs in the central part of the cliff (other than multi-pitch routes which start from the bottom) are usually accessed by abseiling down the Stazewski-Killip ramp ( tongue in cheek Bob?) which is usually refered to as the 'descent ramp'.

Eastern Gara Gorge
23 Rant and Rave

Start: The next line right of 'Short Back and Slides' at ground level.

Up hand crack which splits into two finger cracks below a tree, continue to blocky ledge. Scramble up corner then right then up.

FA: Austin Legler & D. Nehl, 1980

Trad 25m Western Gara Gorge
22 First Aid for Budding Pimples

Start: 10m right of ‘Running on Empty’ on the ledge below the obvious sickle shaped crack.

Move left along ramp, up wall to crack, up this and more wall to top

FA: Tim (Tadpole) Ball & Russell (Chunder) Chudleigh, 1985

Trad 25m Western Gara Gorge
18 Portable Ripoff

Nasty on the hands.

Start: The crack immediately right of 'Fugitive'.

Pull up to rest below obvious leftward trending crack. Up crack and step left to exit at top.

FA: J. Friend, Brian Birchall, R. Thomas & R. McClymont, 1978

Trad 20m Eastern Gara Gorge
10 Kneecap

Start: At the base of a ramp below first pool opposite the main falls

  1. 34m. Up towards vertical cracks, step right and continue up to right, to a spiky ledge. Belay.
  2. 32m. Traverse right to bottom of v-shaped gully. Up wall on right, traverse right under small overhang. Belay
  3. 14m.Up corner or wall to top.

FA: M.Thomas & V.Galer, 1966

Trad 80m Dangars Gorge
16 Petit Fleur

A classic short jam crack

Start: right of ‘No Strings Attached’.

Small roof and then crack to finish.

FA: Rob Clark & Al Stephens, 1981

Trad 10m Western Gara Gorge
14 Speakeasy

Start: 5m left of ‘Resurrection Shuffle’

Up off width to top.

FA: Brian Birchall & R.McClymont, 1979

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
16 Whale Oil Beef Hooked

Start: 2m right of ‘Snakes and Ladders’.

Up thin corner crack to top.

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
14 Reunion

Start: Just left of Anticipation/Hope. Easy slab then an off-width.

Up slab to ledge. Up off-width to ledge; traverse left and easily to top.

FA: Brian Birchall & P. Prior, 1976

Trad 18m Upper Gara Gorge
19 Facial Discrimination

Mixed and varied climbing up the cenre of the main face.

Start: From the descent gully, go right to the bottom of the main wall. The clean layaway crack.

  1. 20m Up crack to join large crack on right, continue up to tree belay.

  2. 10m Walk right to tree and up thin crack below "cats tongue block" to ledge on right.

  3. 20m Up vegetated chimney/gully, right of belay, and continue through fig tree to belay.

  4. 25m Traverse left along treed ledge to belay below two converging cracks with a large block wedged at the top.

  5. 15m Up right hand crack, under block to belay atop block.

  6. 25m (crux). Up to base of off-width, then up thin left crack up to ledge and ramp to belay under small roof/cave.

  7. 10m Up through roof and follow crack left to large ledge and tree belay.

  8. 50m - Leftwards up ramp, over blocks and continue to start of rock ramp then right to good ledge.

  9. 30m Move right and around corner to intermittent crack system. Follow this to obvious ledge.

  10. 10m Follow ledge left and up dirty slab to base of off-width immediately left of huge orange roof, then left to tree belay.

  11. 15m Up small corner and crack trending left to diagonal crack and under-cling and roof to top.

Trad 230m, 11 Eastern Gara Gorge
11 Normacide

Start: About 6m right of the corner, as for Bakercide.

  1. 45m.Up to a large block, over this and up a ramp to the bottom of the wall.

  2. 15m. Up the wall and the obvious crack (crux).

FA: D.Mills & D.McLean, 1966

Trad 60m, 2 Bakers Creek
20 I’d Go For It

Start: 1m right of I.I.W.Y. A companion route but much more serious.

  1. 20m. (crux) Mantle onto ledge, then up the wall and crack to a large ledge. Continue up fine crack/corner.

  2. 10m. Easy scramble to top.

FA: P.Bayne, G.Croft & Al Stephens, 1982

Trad 30m, 2 Mt Yarrowyck
23 Lean Cuisine

Start: The line up the face left of Get Nuked.

Two bolts protect the upper half. Up the face (Friends in breaks) to the bolt and interesting crux, past second bolt and up to top.

FA: Gordon Low & Matt Rizzuto, 1998

Mixed trad 7m, 2 Upper Gara Gorge
21 The Perfect Crime

Start: A few metres left of ’Nightmare on Elm Street’.

Up slab past 10 bolts to chains. Rap off or finish up ‘Flesh Dance’.

FA: Wade Fairly & and Party, 1989

Mixed trad 40m, 10 Western Gara Gorge
15 We Are the Boys

Start: On the lower tier of ‘The Pagoda’, facing ‘The Persian Carpets’. Start in an alcove at the lowest point of the tier.

Into alcove then out right to join crack, follow this up to offwidth (or up wall left of this) to ledge. Up wall into groove and up wall on right to top.

FA: E. Sharp & John Lattanzio, 1983

Trad 30m Western Gara Gorge
16 Gringo

Start: The same direct start as ‘Staggerlee’ added by the Killips.

Up offwidth chimney to ledge then straight up offwidth to crack going straight up to top.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Brian Birchall & Ed Sharpe, 1981

Trad 20m Western Gara Gorge
13 Peanut Alley

Start Approx 4m right of Stop-Go, at the right-hand end of the wall.

12m. Up the broken groove.

FA: D.Gallimore, 1972

Trad 20m Mt Yarrowyck
20 Sucking Faces

A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.

Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.

FA: Al Stephens, Richard Thomas & Cal Finlay, 1985

Mixed trad 15m, 3 Ebor Gorge
16 Origin of the Spaces

Start: 1m right of ‘The Comedian’.

Up crack to tree.

FA: Ed Sharpe, Greg Pritchard, Mark Colyvan & Greg Croft, 1981

Trad 10m Ebor Gorge
18 Rattlesnake

Start: Right of ‘Trix’ in yellow rotten section of cliff.

Fist to off width crack.

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
21 Thick as Thieves

An overhanging black corner crack. Up the corner to top. Belay chains.

Trad 15m Upper Gara Gorge
18 Lady Finger's Boudoir Biscuits

On the downhill side of the boulder splitting the top of the descent gully. From Industrial Experience keep moving around right until you come to a fine crack that splits the boulder. (approx 5m)

Originally graded 17. Upgraded to 19 in Al's guidebook so I have settled on 18.

  1. 15m. Straight up this fine crack.
Trad 15m Western Gara Gorge
22 L'atitude

Up corner on left for 3m, then traverse right into great layback and straight up.

FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 13 Sep 2015

Trad 20m Eastern Gara Gorge
10 Rumble Gully

Start: At the bottom of the second gully to the left of the pool below the major falls.

  1. 20m (crux) Up crack, then chimney and over the small overhang

  2. 40m Scramble up to knife-edge which hides the hidden pool.

  3. 12m Up wall above the hidden pool via crack.

  4. Walk up.

  5. 20m. Depending on the amount of water, take the overhanging chimney behind big rock in big pool. Alternatively, chimney to the right of the pool and traverse left.

FA: B.Harden & D.McLean, 1965

Trad 90m, 5 Dangars Gorge
16 Fruit punch

Details are vague, but apparently takes a line to the left of Black Dell. About 30m is shared with BD.

Trad 100m Bluff Rock
16 That Slick Little Crack

Start: The very clean crack system 3m right of ‘That Slick Little Crack’.

Juggy corner to ledge past bolt to bulge (crux).Over bulge past two bolt-runners, then crack to slab finish.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Al Stephens, 1985

Mixed trad 15m, 3 Western Gara Gorge
24 Running on Empty

Very sustained and hard crack climbing (mostly).

Originally aid through the first roof then a couple of rests up higher but was freed on it’s second ascent by Bayne and Colyvan with a bit of yo-yoing on 1/8/82,

Start: To the right of ‘Charisma’.

Through fists roof, up crack through second roof, up overhanging rightward trending crack past fixed wire then up wall to top.

FA: Paul Bayne, 1982

Trad 25m Western Gara Gorge
17 Mullet

Start: From the descent track, traverse along the ledge, through some fig tree branches, on the left side of the main bluff.

Up hand-crack to top.

FA: M. Peck & P. Colyvan, 1982

Trad 12m Eastern Gara Gorge
20 Mystery Achievement

Start: 6m right of the fence, at the left hand end (higher) of the buttress. A rightward trending crack through a roof.

10m Start in cave, climb crack through roof to top.

FA: J.Lattanzio & M.Colyvan, 1980

Trad 10m Dangars Gorge
14 Swivel

Wide bridging and swiveling.

Start: below prominent chimney.

  1. 15m Up chimney to shut down roof affair, past side.

  2. 20m (crux) Wide chimney to large blocks on North side.

  3. 6m Cross link boulder, then to top.

FA: Joe Friend, 1978

Trad 41m, 3 Western Gara Gorge
14 Puke

Start: 4m left of ‘Speakeasy’.

Up off width in corner, bridging moves near top.

FA: Laimonis Kavalieris & Rod Bambach, 1976

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
16 Passing the Buck

Start: About 3m left of ‘Interlude’.

Up crack.

FA: Mike Peck & Greg Croft, 1981

Trad 10m Ebor Gorge
16 Reunion Alternate Finish

Start: As for Reunion.

At the top of the off-width step right onto the wall and finish up cracks to top.

FA: Paul Bayne & John Lattanzio, 1982

Trad 20m Upper Gara Gorge
15 Someone's done it before...

Wandering line following path of least resistance to top. Start towards the left end of the cliff. Escape through the tree on the right at the top, going left up the face would be harder but more rewarding.

Trad 30m, 2 Upper Gara Gorge
9 Hydrocide

Start: In the corner/gully to the left of the falls. 40m. Up the right wall and wander up below Nitrocide to just below a smooth slab. Up the crack to the left to finish as for Nitrocide.

FA: B.Douglas & E.Cantrill, 1967

Trad 40m Bakers Creek
20 The Aging Experience

Start: 1m right of I.G.F.I. The start onto the ledge is a real struggle.

  1. 20m (crux) Up onto ledge, a struggle, then hand and fist crack to next ledge. Continue up crack corner above ledge to belay.

  2. 10m Easy scramble to top.

FA: Al Stephens, P.Bayne & G.Croft, 1982

Trad 30m, 2 Mt Yarrowyck
17 Greek Perm

A little contrived - try to ignore the temptation to step on the ledges.

Start: The incipient seam that goes up just right of the Kitchen ledges. 2m left of “Lean Cuisine”.

Up the seam with some tricky gear to the final moves. Reach left onto the ledge for a siderunner before committing to the final belly-flop.

FA: Ross Hinckley, Gordon Low & Scott Clelland, 1996

Trad 7m Upper Gara Gorge
21 High Tide

Start: About 4m left of ‘The Perfect Crime’.

Up slab going slightly leftwards down low and then back right up higher to steeper ground. Up steep wall then straight up above over easier ground to chain belay of ‘The Perfect Crime’. 5 bolts on route.

Abseil off or continue up ‘The Perfect Crime’.

Mixed trad 40m, 5 Western Gara Gorge
16 Staggerlee

This route originally started by scrambling up to the first ledge; however Bob and Astrud Killip added the direct start in April 1981.

Start: Just left of chains.

Up offwidth chimney to ledge, continue up offwidth then swing left onto ledge. Up easy hand and fist crack to top.

FA: Brian Birchall, Geoff Francis & Pod KcClyrnont, 1978

Trad 25m Western Gara Gorge
13 Stop-Go

Start: The diagonal line right of Gourmet.

14m. Up the steeply rising, leftward trending crack.

FA: J.Friend & @bobkillip, 1977

Trad 12m Mt Yarrowyck
15 Pylarox

Start: 3m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’ is a corner that leads to a leaning pile of rocks.

The corner, then bridge delicately out and around the roof. A fixed wire protects the last move.

FA: Larry Dixon & Al Stephens, 1986

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
17 Daroof

Start: On a little buttress further right from the other climbs, beneath an obvious roof near a large dead tree.

Up da wall and around da roof.

FA: Al Stephens, Ed Sharpe & Greg Pritchard, 1981

Trad 10m Ebor Gorge
21 Perfect Match

Start:The first real line you come to at the end of the descent path through the 'jungle'. The scimitar shaped crack. Up onto the top of the trunkated column, fight the blackberry and up leftward-leaning curved crack to top.

Trad 20m Ebor Gorge
19 Smear Tactics

4m downstream from Thick As Thieves, the thin crack near the end of the buttress. Up over bulge to the crack/corner. Up this and step right onto ledge.

FA: Paul Bayne, 1982

Trad 15m Upper Gara Gorge
15 Double Crack Corner

Up double corner crack to top

FFA: Mike Carlotto & Jeff McDonald, 25 Apr 2011

Trad 7m Beulah
18 Just an Old-Fashioned Girl

Continuing down the gully below Lady Finger's Boudoir Biscuits there are three crack climbs on the right.

Start. The first large open corner.

  1. 25m. Tricky start, then up the corner, some bridging.
Trad 25m Western Gara Gorge
Ben project2

Up face, through rooflet into offwidth curving to the right then up face.

Trad 20m Eastern Gara Gorge
10 Variant Start To Rumble Gully

Start: In gully right of RG.

Up 7m then up right crack 10m traverse 5m (which way?) then after this wandering, over slight overhang to belay.

FA: D.McLean (second did not follow), 1965

Trad 30m Dangars Gorge
27 Chicks Dig Scars

Excellent finger crack, with chains at the top. Mostly finger-sized gear, but some big cams (#4+) are essential to protect the first hard moves.

FA: Kyle Dunsire, 2001

Trad 25m Upper Gara Gorge
16 Black Dell

A fairly direct line up the eastern face with two slight variations leading through a chimney to the crux, final belay and pitch.

FA: Rick White & and party

Trad 91m Bluff Rock
17 Your Anger Is A Gift

A prominent line overlooking the camp site. Through the offwidth roof crack and out the face.

FA: James Bultitude, 29 Mar 2013

Trad Beulah
14 Zig Zag

Start: a wall split with large cracks.

Up the cracks on the front of the broken block. At about l7m traverse right, then up crack to top.

FA: Brian Birchall & Phil Prior, 1975

Trad 23m Western Gara Gorge
Brook's Nook

This is an obvious diagonal line, left to right, on the northern side of the bluff.

FA: B. Gabriel & R. Jamieson, 1966

Trad 76m Bluff Rock
20 Charisma

Can you believe it, a really enjoyable off-width roof?

Start: below obvious leftward under-cling roof, left of 'Running on Empty'

Around roof then follow off-width and squeeze chimney to top.

FA: Paul Bayne & Greg Croft, 1982

Trad 35m Western Gara Gorge
21 Switchblade

On a lower terrace right of the main block.

Start: The thin crack corner.

Up crack to top.

FA: P. (Animal) Colyvan, G.Pritchard, Brian Birchall & John Lattanzio, 1982

FA: Mark Colyvan, 1982

Trad 10m Eastern Gara Gorge
8 Fairy Choss

Start: The corner 30m right of Mystery Achievement.

  1. 30m Up chimney trending to off-width, to a sloping grassy ledge. Belay in open chimney.

  2. 30m Continue up corner to spacious grassy ledge, then up chimney to top.

FA: J.Lattanzio & E.Sharp, 1980

Trad 60m, 2 Dangars Gorge
18 Swivel Variant

Start: To the right of the chimney; on the wall.

  1. 10m Up to flake then jam onto chock stones.

  2. 20m As for ‘Swivel’

  3. 6m As for 'Swivel'

FA: Joe Friend, 1978

Trad 10m, 3 Western Gara Gorge
16 Liquid Laughter

Start: 2m left of ‘Puke’.

Up crack opening to offwidth, followed by flake to ledge. Cruise (with some panic) through some mank and chossy rock, slightly to the right of flake, finish on ledge, to top. Heave a sigh of relief.

FA: Brian Birchall, Greg Pritchard & John Lattanzio, 1979

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
14 Interlude

A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do.

Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney’.

A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof.

FA: Greg Croft & R. Rose, 1981

Trad 10m Ebor Gorge
17 Yuppie

Start: 1m left of Reunion. A series of boulder problems and ledges.

Up little wall, step left, up left diagonal then clip BR right past BR to ledge, clip another BR then up (crux) to top.

Mixed trad 18m, 2 Upper Gara Gorge
21 Leaving on your Mind

Start: Left of Don’t Get Cute

4 BRs and gear in break. Bolt belay at top.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Anita Gordon & Tony Pople, 1989

Mixed trad 20m, 4 Upper Gara Gorge
8 Nitrocide.

Start: As for Hydrocide.

40m. Straight up the orner/gully.

FA: B.Harden, G.Hindmarsh & D.McLean, 1964

Trad 40m Bakers Creek
21/22 Maybe

Start: 5m right of T.A.E. A diagonal layaway in a yellow corner with a bulge /roof up high. This is an excellent climb. Highly recommended.

  1. 20m. (crux) A short slab and an awkward mantle shelf onto the ledge at the base of the diagonal crack. Delicate moves lead to strenuous layaways and a tricky little roof to finish.

  2. 10m. Easy scramble to top.

FA: P.Bayne, Al Stephens & G.Croft, 1982

Trad 30m, 2 Mt Yarrowyck
14 Keep Outa’ Kate’s Kitchen

Start: The left leaning crack on the right side of the upstream face.

Up crack with a tricky move at the top. Belay can be tricky to arrange.

FA: Gordon Low & B. Briner, 1995

Trad 10m Upper Gara Gorge
21 The Commitment

2m right of ‘Flesh Dance’.

Up to very thin flake (BR), then head right and up to the top of the flake to a second bolt. Continue up the corner (some natural protection is needed for this section) then clip bolt, step left and up steep head wall. Another bolt then easier ground to the chains of ‘The Perfect Crime’. Gear required: 6 bolt plates and quickdraws, #6 rock, & #2 friends.

FA: Gavin Dean & Al Stephens, 1993

Mixed trad 40m, 6 Western Gara Gorge
17 Locomosquito

A dirty crack start, that wanders all over the place. Start: 4m right of P.R.

30m Up crack to spacious ledge, traverse left across Pop Realism, and a face to large flake, trending left to bushy ledge, then up, right, around flake to top.

FA: John Lattanzio & A-LegIer, 1980

Trad 30m Western Gara Gorge
19 Toby's Corner

The corner crack 2m right of SW. Stem and Jamb up the corner. Belay on top of block in cracks.

FA: Toby Waters & Jeff Gracie, 1986

Trad 10m Upper Gara Gorge
18 Sunday School

Start: Around to the right of the the base of La Cucaracha. (On the upstream side of the buttress).

Up thin cracks to join ‘La Cucaracha’ near the top, continue up crack.

FA: Paul Bayne & Mary Roulston, 1982

Trad 30m Western Gara Gorge
23 Power Play

Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs.

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
18 Inspiration Point

Start: The first line from the left-hand end of the cliff.

Up fine, steep finger crack to roof. Finish as for ‘Capillary Direct’.

FA: Joe Friend & Richard Curtis, 1977

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
17 Haggis Hole

This line has long since fallen away, exposing a completely different route up the twin cracks on bright orange rock.

Original grade 13 line no longer exists.

FA: Jill Kelman & Al Stephens, 1974

FA: pete kehoe, 3 May 2017

Trad 20m Ebor Gorge
20 Mad Woman's Breakfast

Start: Up the crack through the bulge to the top.

Strenuous jamming. Take a #4 Friend.

FA: Al Stephens, 1981

Trad 10m Upper Gara Gorge
{US} AU:17 Scar Tissue

The hand/fist crack on the south face of boulder. Steep and leans to the right. Gear to 4". Gear anchor required.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

Trad 13m Beulah
18 High Mass

Start 1m left of Just an Old-Fashioned Girl. Tricky start then good climbing. Use double ropes.

    1. Up fig-root crack to ledge, then up jamb crack in the arete, then traverse left under small roof into the main crack and straight up this.
Trad 25m Western Gara Gorge
23 The Gates of Moria

This poor excuse for a climb should be cemented up... actually it’s probably a good route for visiting Queenslanders to do.

Start: About 10m right of ‘That’s Entertainment’ below big ugly 3 chimney.

  1. 20m Up the cleft on the right wall as for ‘The Gremlin’, a tussle with chock stones lands one before the gates.

  2. 20m Jump into bottomless cavern and squeeze upwards (usually) in total darkness to a sandy grotto.

  3. 5m Several overhanging mud pull-ups to top.

FA: Chris Dale & Paul Bayne, 1998

Trad 45m, 3 Western Gara Gorge
14 Deception

Start: The crack between R.G. and Zig Zag.

Up the crack for 30m. (some rotten rock) over the bulge and either up the slabs to the right, or continue up the corner crack

FA: R.Dixon, B.Killip & B.Birchall, 1974

Trad 40m Dangars Gorge
17 Misspent Youth

Start from a cave up on the ledge, belay off fig roots. (Nice one Simon)

  1. 16m. From the cave, swing right into the base of the crack. Then straight up - varied climbing.

FA: Simon Gay & Al Stephens, 1985

Trad 16m Western Gara Gorge
21 The Gremlin

A classic although is best to rap in from the top to avoid the horrid chimney leading up to it. Rap into semi-hanging belay from chain on top.

Start: as for ‘The Gates of Moria’

  1. 22m Scramble up into chimney then to undercling leading past bolt, then up into layback then step right at arête to belay at chains at horizontal crack.

  2. 15m (crux) Up face and arête to top past 3 bolts to chains.

FA: Greg Croft, Paul Bayne (alt leads) & Al Stephens, 1982

Trad 37m, 2 Western Gara Gorge
11 Zig Zag

Start: An appropriate name. In the chimney Start: A crack on a wall in the watercourse above the lower pool, to the right of Deception. below the pool.

Up narrow chimney, then traverse right, along ledge, then up, traverse left, then right and up line of weakness. Traverse left and scramble to top.

FA: D.McLean & B.Harden, 1965

Trad 33m Dangars Gorge
19 Bananas

On the small wall at the extreme left hand end of Slab City

  1. 25m. Up crack trending right up to overlap. Move right to the arete and then back left up the easy arete to top.
Trad 25m Western Gara Gorge
15 Trendsetter

A trendy line.

Start: the crack left of ‘Zig Zag.

  1. 15m (crux) Up the impressive crack to a large ledge.

  2. 24m Up the crack to a ledge, traverse right then up a tight chimney.

FA: Brian Birchall, P. Prior & Jill Kelman, 1975

Trad 49m, 2 Western Gara Gorge

To the west of Brook's Nook. Two variations possible.

  1. After the scramble, traverse right to the belay.

  2. (crux) Go right and continue up

  3. Up over a small overhang to finish, or traverse left and up a gully to Brook's Nook, but to it's right to finish.

Trad 76m Bluff Rock
13 Breakfast at Sweethearts

A refined Cold Chisel album. A pleasant enough climb. Start: A corner in orange rock, 6tn. right of S.C. and right of overhangs.

Up corner, a little loose, through some bulges, and off-width to top.

Trad 13m Western Gara Gorge

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