Routes in Northern Tablelands

Awesome moves starting as a sds back in the cave traversing through all three layers of granite, out, around and then up to top out.

Described in Rock Magazine #48 as incredibly thin and powerful.

6 moves, SDS

Sit start on the tiny sharp holds to join Escaped Monkey.

SDS. Traverses obvious crack without actually using it.

Described in Rock Magazine #48 as 10 moves, thin and powerful. Listed as having had 2 repeats at time of publication.

SDS at pointy jug at knee height at base of 'New Beginning' and finishes at the top of 'Pinch Me'

Only known repeat by Matt Wrigley.

Chin up on the twin mono's. A taste of 'Action Directe' in New England!

Right sloper, left friction, then dyno? to massive jug

SDS from detatched flake/poor pinch and dyno to lip and top-out.

Listed as having 2 repeats in Rock Magazine #48 (2001)

Amazing short line. Stand start on good crimps then big hard dead point to slopper, match and mantle

Start at the Underbelly and link under through magic bean out other side.

Match on the big flake and dyno to glory

Stand start. Hard mantle around a bulge.

From the Waterfall Dome Parking area follow the quad trail to the Dome, once you see the "Three Stooges" boulders, go uphill passing the stooges on the right for about 100m. As the hill gets steeper look to the right and you should see this boulder.

Sit start on obvious feature and head to right arete with difficulty and heel hooking. Once you get there, keep going up and left to top. Then keep your heart pumping by down climbing the 'Sickle of death project'.

This boulder is 10 m down stream of Mad Woman's Breakfast.

Sitting on other boulders, there is a short roof under the boulder. From the start position, your back is to the river.

Sit start on obvious large sloping feature with your left heel by your hands. Up to a small slopey crimp, or if you like, to the very small, incut and very sharp flexing crimp. Then pull hard and throw up to rail, match then very hard mantel top out.

Up left side of overhang

Right of The Fluming. Stand start on 2 shit edges, jump to top. Grade may be off. Sit start still a project.

Tall mans start up rail, then hard long move left to link into other rail.

Thin, powerful, sharp, overhung.

Sit start on low pinch, move up through some crimps, towards tough move over bulge.

Awesome start hold but in the wrong place

Start heel hooking on the easy right side and then through progressively harder moves.

Meagre start holds, up to an inverted rail, a bull shit crimp and then link into the standing variant.

Obscure and crap, intensely reachy.

Up from glued sidepull to long edge then left to hold at lip and mantle.

Burly start easing to top

Long sequence of technical moves to top

Five metres to the right of Shooting Star Cave and downhill is another cave created by boulders stacked on top of each other.

Sit start at the back of cave on obvious roof with a nice arete on the right. A right toe-hook on the arete and a left heel hook under the roof will get you off the ground without using the boulder at the end of the cave. Slap your right hand along the arete and use sidepull and undercling with your left. Follow the roof arete up into the chimney where it ends.

Walk east, around the contour for 20m there is a small bouldering cave with one problem.

Start on juggy block to the right of the crack, move into aggressive hand / finger jam through roof to a tricky lip encounter and high top out. No earthworks needed, do not be tempted.

Right arete from Fluming. Low start, nice moves up the arete to finish left.

Sit start off low rail under the lip. Power up to crimps and finish up S8.

Sit start on left, slap and slopers to thin crux then jug.

Start on the far right of feature, follow left and up to top. Variations may exist.

Standing start on tiny crimps and head up to small left facing corner, then top.

Start as for Spiderskin, but climb the obvious feature to the left where it ends. Then a very long reach to the left onto an slopey sidepull, then up to edge and then mantel finish.

Straight up the face from the boulder. Balance your way up fused seam and on to the right.

Start: The arête at the left end of the Buttress, before the big chimney corner. Start up the arête, trending right past the hangers to the horizontal break (big friend). Step up and power up the yellow streak past more hangers to lower-off under the block.

Very powerful!

Start: 3m right of Se A Cabo.

Follow the seam past four bolts. Lower off fifth bolt.

Start: 2-3m right of Low Flying Angel Same bolts. Boulder along under the roof (trying not to break your back) to join the original link-up and so on....

On the steepest section of rock directly below the second bolt on S.S. there is a bolt. Up past a BR to the 2nd bolt on S.S. Go up and slightly left past two more BR’s to top out. The BR to the right in the top section is still a project.

Amazing arete with a peg and wire low down then the crux, then your on your own for the balancy stuff. So basically soloing. There is a sling and biner around a branch high in the tree for toproping / pro.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638157463/

5 bolts to twin rings. Stick clip first two and start in corner. Get a good belayer, you don't want loads of slack here. The bloc behind is out.

Technical climbing to a heart breaking crux finish. In summer, climb in the evening.

A power-endurance fest. Start: As for L.A. - clip first bolt from the block. Pump up to the jug on Trapeze then reverse this to the second bolt on R.G.M. Finish as for this route.

Hard moves up steep ground on small holds,

Sit start low on the flake, follow flake to a tough final slope. A stand start variant can be done at V6.

Through break the up thin crimps to left dyno

Awesome problem on amazing holds. Sit start on jug and climb diagonally up and right via the series of crystal pockets and crazy body contortions. An easier V4 variant sit starts with left hand in first pocket and right on a low crimp.

Stand start on left pinch and right crimp. Desperately follow the seam up onto the slab. Grade unknown. Somewhere between V5 and V9.

Crouch start and up the arete on the right side.

On the back side of boulder (uphill side) there is a steeper face. Stand start in the middle on lowest crimp rails and tough moves to gain big RH side pull then lip to mantle

Defiant Mantle

Long sequence of technical moves to top (Not!)

Heads right from start hold

Start on sidepull to the left of arete then up to finish on ramp

Do the Jeff's Traverse and Candy For Jeff.

Perfect letterbox start to hard crimping

Hard first move, then follow rail to top out, has been done as a jump start problem

Overhung arête, awesome. Start with right hand on low crimp and left on blocky feature above.

Sit down start then up arete

Directly below the left end of the Black Dog Wall.

Nice slightly overhanging boulder that faces the Black Dog Wall.

Sit start the crack with a high right foot and make your way powerfully to the lip and head right and mantel.

Nice and tall arete just east of catacomb roof 30m. Not sure of the name either. Grade should be close.

Start as for Gymnastic and traverse left to the start hold of Thing and keep going left low and make long move left to seem then finish up on the big easy slopers. Probably been done before.

Another 10m towards the creek on your right is a short boulder.

Okish crimps, meh footers, dyno to sloper lip

Climb the right arete.

A direct line up the face that ratchets up the grade with each move

Start on the same juggy hold as for Bus Driver. Low traverse of smooth slopers and ledges to the right. When you hit the end jug or sloper (further right), head up through a micro-crimp/crystally top out.

Sit start low and left on obvious jug, move up and right through features to pocket. Continue right into crimps in dish, big moves up and right then mantle. Probably done a while ago.

Abseil down from tree with sling at top of dome down about 15m towards dead tree. Look for 2 bolt anchor with rings beside tree on small ledge. Abseil again from anchor 20m to slab.

Route takes the orange vertical face on thin crimps to a slight bulge with incipient seam through it. Once through bulge angle eases to anchor.

No bolts are in place yet, just the anchor.

In welsh means "sloping lands", and is the name of a local river. funnily enough originates from Gwynedd where i was last working. Basically, poorly protected first moves gets you to a piton, then the crux.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638935338/

Excellent finger crack, with chains at the top. Mostly finger-sized gear, but some big cams (#4+) are essential to protect the first hard moves. http://www.flickr.com/photos/kandk/4117216050/in/photostream/

Start: The second line of bolts.

Up to the second bolt then break out left past more bolts to lower off seventh bolt over lip.

hasnt been freed yet, matt rizzuto was bloody close

Water level needs to be fairly low. Fantastic juggy start then progressively harder through the face, a big dyno, then probably head left up the arete.

Same start as VengaBus but with mantle finish on upper boulder.

Sit start, up using two glorious side pulls and a sharp crimpy top section. Top out to the right of upper boulder.

The highball mega problem, trend up left on pockets

Wild slap to hard lock off and then mantle out right to avoid groove.

The problem avoiding the groove and crimp near the top. Sit start with tough move to pull into under-cling, then slap up right and up for dirty mantle out right.

Sit Start as for Power Monkey but move out left near the top to small v groove hold.

Old project from 2009. Sit start on the arete, up some tough thin moves to a final lunge for the top.

Starts 2m right of large crack on lower boulders (Mosquito Coil). Desperate hands up arete to top out.