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Routes in Northern Tablelands

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,747 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
17 Fear and Loathing

Start: 4m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up finger crack with block at half height. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if a top rope anchor is needed (take bolt plates) but quite adequate anchors can be had where the crack splits the top of the pinnacle.

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
16 Hope

Start: The best-looking line on the boulder. A jam crack, then an easy corner. A classic. Left of Expiry Date.

Jam the crack to the large ledge, then up the easy corner.

FA: R. Dixon & Brian Birchall, 1975

Trad 25m Upper Gara Gorge
15 The Removalist

Start: A few metres upstream of the lookout below an obvious handjamb crack which turns into a rightwards diagonal.

Climb the handjamb crack and the rightwards diagonal which leads into a vertical crack. Up this to a stance with double hangers and rap rings.

  • Take care with the moveable block at the top of the initial crack. - It seems to be locked in, but "forewarned is forearmed".
Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
V1 Unkown flake

Sit start on bottom right of obvious flake. Up flake then head left and up into corner. Use pocket in corner then up.

Boulder 4m Upper Gara Gorge
{US} V3 Swamp Thing

Sit down start on the rail. Easier if you start standing. Up the obvious feature. Pretty high. Wicked. One bolt at top for those who would rather try it on TR.

FA: Todd Free, 2006

Boulder 5m Beulah
V4 Mozzie Rock

Sit start on obvious jug on west side of boulder. Head up then right to right facing rail and up to crimp slope top-out.

Boulder 4m Upper Gara Gorge
14 Charity

Start: The crack on the ledge left of faith.

Hard start, then easier jamming to top.

FA: R. Dixon & Brian Birchall, 1975

Trad 20m Upper Gara Gorge
16 Whale Oil Beef Hooked

Start: 2m right of ‘Snakes and Ladders’.

Up thin corner crack to top.

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
17 Submission

Start: 1m right of ‘Ilean’.

Up crack to top.

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
17 Modern Electrics

Start: The arete between ‘Snakes and Ladders’ and ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Straight up the arete, avoiding the climbs on either side. 4 bolts and a selection of Friends provide the protection. #4 Friend needed near top.

FA: Larry Dixon & Al Stephens, 1987

Mixed trad 15m, 4 Ebor Gorge
V0 Rooflet
Boulder 3m Mt Yarrowyck
V2 Scoop

Sit start on obvious feature with jug in left hand and rail in right. Up to the horn then mantel. Walk off.

Boulder 3m Mt Yarrowyck
19 Heavy Metal

A wall/arête route protected by bolts. The first route to use protection bolts on this crag. 4 BRs Friends or nuts for the belay. Up the wall, then the arête, connecting up the four bolts to the chain

FA: Al Stephens & E. Sharpe, 1981

Sport 18m, 5 Upper Gara Gorge
V0 Prayer note crack

Easy juggy layback

Boulder 2m Upper Gara Gorge
13 Snakes and Ladders

Start: 1m right of ‘Mischief’.

Up twin cracks to top.

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
20 Sucking Faces

A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.

Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.

FA: Al Stephens, Richard Thomas & Cal Finlay, 1985

Mixed trad 15m, 3 Ebor Gorge
13 Illusion

The corner crack 1m left of And So It Goes. Very popular. Scramble up onto the ledge then jam to the top. Chains belay.

FA: Brian Birchall & P. Prior, 1976

Trad 15m Upper Gara Gorge
VB Round rail

Up left on rounded rail

Boulder 2m Upper Gara Gorge
18 Fingers

Start: 5m right of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Large log below start.

Fingery crack that closes near the top.

Trad 8m Ebor Gorge
V3 Arete left

Layback the arete to the left

Boulder 3m Mt Yarrowyck
V0 Easy peasy

Try it with no hands!

Boulder 2m Upper Gara Gorge
15 Seizure

Start: 1m left of ‘Boulder’.

A bit of bridging leads to a textbook hand jam crack.

FA: Rob Dixon, Al Stephens & Chris May, 1975

Trad 14m Ebor Gorge
V3 Pseudoephedrine

Follow flake up to thin slab mantle.

Boulder 5m Upper Gara Gorge
17 Firestorm

Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse’.

Hand jam crack with tricky finish.

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
3 Epileptic Chimney

A useful descent route for this part of the cliff.

Start: The chimney to the left of and behind ‘Ivory Stairs’.

Up chimney.

FA: Mark Colyvan (solo), 1980

Trad 10m Ebor Gorge
V3 Rhys's crack

Layback crack

FA: Rhys Van Gastel, 2010

Boulder 3m Beulah
17 The Joker

Start: 2m left of ‘Milkshake’.

Up short chimney and then the corner crack. (The corner has been extensively cleaned in recent years making it substantially easier - perhaps 16?)

FA: Rob Dixon & Al Stephens, 1975

Trad 12m Ebor Gorge
20 Thor's Traverse

The first DWS route set in the Dragons Belly. Traverse left along wall. Finish on top of large square block.

Set by Thor Burey, 27 Mar 2015

Deep water solo 20m Dangars Gorge
V3 The crack

Sit down start, sweet moves using only the right side of the crack and stay on the face at the top.

Boulder 4m Upper Gara Gorge
17 Layabout

The crack 1m left of Illusion/Going Steady. Up blocks to thin crack, up this to wide crack and top.

FA: Brian Birchall, 1979

Trad 25m Upper Gara Gorge
V3 Teddy Bear's Picnic

Sit start on good edges, long reach to lip, then mantel.

Easier variation is to use large detached block for the feet at start.

Boulder 2m Upper Gara Gorge
V0 Ostrovsky

Easy wide crack

Boulder 2m Upper Gara Gorge
20 Ilean

Start: The sharp arête between ‘Ivory Stairs’ and ‘Submission’.

Layaway up the sharp edge. 3 bolts, a number 3 friend, and wires provide the protection. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if an anchor is required, which also services climbs 16 - 20 (take bolt plates).

FA: Al Stephens & Larry Dixon, 1987

Mixed trad 15m, 3 Ebor Gorge
V1 The western wall

Slimpers with great feet to mantle

Boulder 2m Upper Gara Gorge
13 Gung Ho

Start: 3m left of 'Seizure’.

Up initial crack and then an awkward move to turn the overlap on its left and get established on a small slab. Finish up chimney/corner.

FA: Al Stephens & Rob Dixon, 1975

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
V0 Layback

Sweet layback problem

Boulder 2m Upper Gara Gorge
V4 Jeff's Traverse
Boulder Mt Yarrowyck
V6 Candy for Jeff
Boulder 3m Mt Yarrowyck
14 Interlude

A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do.

Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney’.

A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof.

FA: Greg Croft & R. Rose, 1981

Trad 10m Ebor Gorge
18 Anticipation

Start: The flared crack left of Hope. Bridge up the corner left of Hope, or do the jam section of Hope. Take a #4 Friend.

Up the corner 1m left of Hope, to the ledge, step up (crux) into the corner and jam to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, Mark Colyvan & A. Legler, 1980

Trad 20m Upper Gara Gorge
V2 Stolen moments

Start right hand on RH Arete then jump high to left arete then up, to blunt arete and either mantel or rock-up onto left foot.

Boulder 3m Mt Yarrowyck
V0 Finger Crack

the obvious finger crack that goes up then left across slab to another crack and up. Good fun.

Boulder 5m Upper Gara Gorge
V0 Pete's layaway
Boulder 3m Mt Yarrowyck
20 Bombay Duck

A single aid rest was eliminated on the second ascent by J. Lattanzio and M, Colyvan, Feb 1982.

Start: About 1m right of ‘The Removalist’.

Up thin crack and wall to a better crack above which joins up with the top part of ‘The Removalist’.

FA: Al Stephens & Ed Sharpe, 1982

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
22 Savage Amusement

Start: The middle line with the large dog-leg flake. Scramble up onto the ledge. Originally graded 20, but was up-graded to 22 when a loose spike was removed from just below the finger crack crux. From the ledge, step out right, then straight up over the huge flake, move right into the crack- corner, then finger-lock the bulge (crux).

FA: Brian Birchall, John Lattanzio, Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1980

Trad 15m Upper Gara Gorge
V0 Crack
Boulder 4m Mt Yarrowyck
V0 Moby Dick Traverse

Traverse crack from far right until left arete.

Boulder 10m Stonehenge
V3 Socially just fucker

Sit down start on far left. Traverse right crimp then up obvious small corner. Easier, and not as much fun if you start standing under the small corner.

FA: Stephan Gaassand, 2010

Boulder 8m Beulah
V3 Dynosoar

Sit start on good two hand edge with a high foot. Dyno up and left to good edge, then up into groove to top.

Boulder 3m Upper Gara Gorge
V3 Bus Driver

Start on good edge, up to open handed sloper, then up to tiny crimp, then sloper, high step and done.

Boulder 3m Upper Gara Gorge
V2 Cracked vessel

SDS on finger locks then up crack

Boulder 2m Upper Gara Gorge
V6 Vulcanology

Delicate laybacking up the obvious feature to mantle top-out. Sit start around the same grade.

Boulder 4m Upper Gara Gorge
V2 Quickdraw traverse

SDS the traverse left and top out. Various finishes, the longer the harder

Boulder 3m Upper Gara Gorge
12 Expiry Date

Start: On the ledge between Charity and Hope.

Straight up the wall to top. No protection.

FA: G. Pritchard, John Lattanzio & P. Butler, 1982

Trad 10m Upper Gara Gorge
V0 Quickdraw direct

SDS and straight up

Boulder 1m Upper Gara Gorge
V0 J1

Easy mantle from Jug then up slab

Boulder 2m Mt Yarrowyck
16 Tui

Follow the bolts up the delicate slab. A good introduction to slabbing.

FA: Aidan Smith, 11 Feb 2012

Sport 15m, 5 Beulah
V5 Evan Stone

Delicate start up a rounded rail. It looks scary but gets better and easier and the fall isn't as bad as you think. V5 is for the 2 crimp moves into the rail, but if you start on the rail it's much easier.

Boulder 4m Upper Gara Gorge
V1 Salubrious

Obvious line up the middle of the wall

FA: Arthur Schultz, 1 Jun 2012

Boulder 3m Cathedral Rock National Park
V4 Catacomb Roof

Sit start under overhang on left side on well chalked undercling/sidepull. Go straight up on crimps to mantel top-out.

Boulder 3m Upper Gara Gorge
V5 Jeff's Crimp Problem
Boulder 3m Mt Yarrowyck
24 New Blue Dress

Start: The arête right of ‘Contrivia’ and left of ‘Fear And Loathing’. “Like shimmying up a Fridge”. Up the arête past wires in the crack and two fixed hangers. Belay off double bolts at top.

FA: 1995

Mixed trad 10m, 2 Ebor Gorge
V8 Body Darma

Standing start on tiny crimps and head up to small left facing corner, then top.

Boulder 4m Upper Gara Gorge
20 It Pays to Belong

Start: The arête/wall between ‘Fear and Loathing’ and ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Up the arête/wall avoiding the cracks on either side and passing 3 BR’s and a #1 1/2 Friend placement. Some wires also useful.

FA: Tim Balla, Larry Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988

Mixed trad 15m, 3 Ebor Gorge
19 Going Steady

The arête 2m left of Illusion. Small wires and 1 BR. Scramble up onto the Illusion ledge, then up the arête past BR near top. Belay/abseil chains.

Mixed trad 15m, 1 Upper Gara Gorge
V1 Warmup

Start in the good pocket, one slap and then mantle

Boulder 2m Upper Gara Gorge
17 Whale Ale

Up the steep concave scoop then slab above. A medium sized cam is required for horizontal break at the top. Two bolt lower off.

FA: Tim Hasnoot, 11 Feb 2012

Sport 15m, 4 Beulah
V0 Jug rail
Boulder 3m Upper Gara Gorge
V0 The Hypotenuse

Up the right arete.

Boulder 3m Upper Gara Gorge
V4 Dog Rooter Arete

Layback the arete to the right

Boulder 3m Mt Yarrowyck
24 To Infinity and Beyond

From the end of T.S.T. traverse up R.

FA: Ben Vincent, 25 Feb 2017

Deep water solo 10m Dangars Gorge
18 Aeroplane Jelly

Start: 10m left of ‘Luce’.

Rightward trending crack to hand jam crack to top.

Trad 20m Ebor Gorge
22 Toy Story Traverse

Start at the downstream end of the Toy Story Wall and traverse R through until the obvious no-hands-rest block at the start of TIAB.

Set by Ben Vincent & Dr. Phil, 14 Jan 2017

FA: Ben Vincent, 25 Feb 2017

Deep water solo 20m Dangars Gorge
V3 Nice rockover

Start on glued hold, up and right

Boulder 3m Mt Yarrowyck
V6 New Beginning

Up groove from edges to slopers

Boulder 4m Mt Yarrowyck
V6 Fight club

The first rule of Fight Club is: You do not talk about Fight Club

FA: Ben Vincent, 8 Jan

Boulder 5m Upper Gara Gorge
Dyno-Soar

From the block at the end of T.T. down-climb ramp to the two obvious juggy pockets on the arete. Set yourself and then hit the massive dyno. You can see the nice flat ledge that you're aiming for from the block.

Deep water soloProject 2m Dangars Gorge
V2 Unknown Variation

Sit start on bottom right of obvious flake. Up flake then head left and up to top of flake. Avoid the corner and use the slight arete to the right of corner.

Boulder 3m Upper Gara Gorge
V0 Traverse

Underling lip and traverse

Boulder 6m Mt Yarrowyck
16 Caballero

Start: 2m left of ‘Polynesian Lady’ and immediately left of small roof.

Up to the left of roof to off width corner. Continue to top

FA: Phil Prior, Rod Bambach, Rob Dixon & Laimonis Kavalieris, 1976

Trad 10m Ebor Gorge
15 Ivory Stairs

Start: 12m right of ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Loose in parts.

Up corner to roof, step left and up to top.

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
18 Layabout/Going Steady Connection

Start as for layabout and climb the nice hand crack; gear up to 2". When the hand crack ends follow right leading crack to the arête of "Going Steady" and finish up the arête past one carrot bolt, bring a bolt plate. Abseil off chain anchor.

Mixed trad 18m, 1 Upper Gara Gorge
18 Amphetamine Annie

Start: About 10m down left of ‘Potato Picker’. A small tree is growing out of the crack at half height.

Up crack to top.

FA: Rob Clark & Al Stephens, 1980

Trad 18m Ebor Gorge
V1 The arrow

Crimps up the face.

Boulder 3m Upper Gara Gorge
V4 Lost world

Start on good crimps, then tricky feet to top

Boulder 2m Mt Yarrowyck
V2 Tree Crack

Start in the crack on the left side of boulder with the thin little tree growing in it at half height. Climb crack not using the tree.

Boulder 5m Upper Gara Gorge
12 Wollomombi-Chandler Ridge

Only experienced bushwalkers or rock climbers should attempt this trip. Helmets recommended. The party will need some large Hexes or Friends, and approx. 10 long slings with carabineers to sling bushes, the only protection after the start crack.

Start: The junction of the two rivers. Move up the ridge through bushes and rotten hand holds till you are confronted with a steep wall, split by a chimney. The chimney has been done but it is easier to move about 40m left till you come to a crack in a corner. This corner is the only place where you need Hexes or Cams.

Climb the groove to the crest of the ridge. Continue up and along the ridge using slings and carabineers as running belays. A step in the ridge (a bridge) is the first major obstacle. Running belays are difficult to find here so don’t fall off. Further along the ridge there are two large rock towers ('The Tooth of Death'). Negotiate these on the right-hand side, or better go up and rap off.

Eventually you will come to a large rainforest saddle, full of vines and creepers. The best route out of the saddle is via the extreme left-hand side. The first thirty metres is loose and dangerous- take care. Swing up through bushes and loose handholds, gradually moving across to the right. At this point the drop-off into the Chandler (on the right) is frightening. A few short walls, a little more scrambling and you will be back on the gorge rim. Head up onto the walking track and back to the car.

FA: John (Action) Lindsay & party, 1961

Trad 330m Wollomombi Falls
20 Heavy Metal - Direct Start

Below the arête just right of the original line. Up the arête passing two bolts to join the original route at it’s third bolt and on up to the chain.

FA: Al Stephens, 1994

Sport 18m, 4 Upper Gara Gorge
V0 Hand Crack

Climb the obvious hand crack on the east face of boulder.

Boulder 5m Upper Gara Gorge
V1 T3

Mantle up the Arete

Boulder 2m Mt Yarrowyck
18 Knuckleduster

Start: 2m left of ‘Double Trouble’.

Up thin hand crack and wide groove above.

FA: Richard Curtis, Jill Kelman, Brian Birchall & Phil Prior, 1976

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
V0 T4

Mantle on face

Boulder 3m Mt Yarrowyck
16 Last Straw

Start: First line left of break in cliff, 3m right of ‘Chunder Chimney’. Due to undergrowth at the base of the middle section of the cliff, it is advisable to access this climb by descending one of the easy chimneys above.

The slightly overhanging jam crack. (marked)

FA: Richard Curtis & Laimonis Kavalieris, 1977

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
V0- Dyno

Easy hold, dyno to right jug

Boulder 2m Upper Gara Gorge
{US} V0- Way Down

Obvious crack on southeast face. Climb up or down it.

FA: Unknown, 2009

Boulder 2m Beulah
V1 Jesus ate my butt crack

Nice jams, then layback the flake to top. Pretty sweet

BoulderProject 3m Beulah
21 Faith

Start: The slabby arête at the extreme right hand end of the buttress. #4 Friend and 2 BRs. Belay off 2 bolts.

Scramble up ledges to the base of the slab. Move up the right side of arête, BR, then step to the left side (crux) and up to the top, BR.

Mixed trad 20m, 2 Upper Gara Gorge
6 Staircase Chimney

Start: 3m right of ‘Submission’.

Scramble up broken rock and into chimney and on to top.

FA: Richard Curtis (solo), 1976

Trad 15m Ebor Gorge
V0 The Adjacent

Up left arete.

Boulder 3m Upper Gara Gorge
V1 Salubrislab

1m right of Salubrious

Boulder 3m Cathedral Rock National Park

Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,747 routes.

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