Routes in Northern Tablelands

Start: 4m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up finger crack with block at half height. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if a top rope anchor is needed (take bolt plates) but quite adequate anchors can be had where the crack splits the top of the pinnacle.

Start: The best-looking line on the boulder. A jam crack, then an easy corner. A classic. Left of Expiry Date.

Jam the crack to the large ledge, then up the easy corner.

Start: A few metres upstream of the lookout below an obvious handjamb crack which turns into a rightwards diagonal.

Climb the handjamb crack and the rightwards diagonal which leads into a vertical crack. Up this to a stance with double hangers and rap rings.

• Take care with the moveable block at the top of the initial crack. - It seems to be locked in, but "forewarned is forearmed".

Sit start on bottom right of obvious flake. Up flake then head left and up into corner. Use pocket in corner then up.

Sit down start on the rail. Easier if you start standing. Up the obvious feature. Pretty high. Wicked. One bolt at top for those who would rather try it on TR.

Sit start on obvious jug on west side of boulder. Head up then right to right facing rail and up to crimp slope top-out.

Start: The crack on the ledge left of faith.

Hard start, then easier jamming to top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Snakes and Ladders’.

Up thin corner crack to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Ilean’.

Up crack to top.

Start: The arete between ‘Snakes and Ladders’ and ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Straight up the arete, avoiding the climbs on either side. 4 bolts and a selection of Friends provide the protection. #4 Friend needed near top.

Sit start on obvious feature with jug in left hand and rail in right. Up to the horn then mantel. Walk off.

A wall/arête route protected by bolts. The first route to use protection bolts on this crag. 4 BRs Friends or nuts for the belay. Up the wall, then the arête, connecting up the four bolts to the chain

Easy juggy layback

Start: 1m right of ‘Mischief’.

Up twin cracks to top.

A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.

Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.

The corner crack 1m left of And So It Goes. Very popular. Scramble up onto the ledge then jam to the top. Chains belay.

Up left on rounded rail

Start: 5m right of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Large log below start.

Fingery crack that closes near the top.

Layback the arete to the left

Try it with no hands!

Start: 1m left of ‘Boulder’.

A bit of bridging leads to a textbook hand jam crack.

Follow flake up to thin slab mantle.

Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse’.

Hand jam crack with tricky finish.

A useful descent route for this part of the cliff.

Start: The chimney to the left of and behind ‘Ivory Stairs’.

Up chimney.

Layback crack

Start: 2m left of ‘Milkshake’.

Up short chimney and then the corner crack. (The corner has been extensively cleaned in recent years making it substantially easier - perhaps 16?)

The first DWS route set in the Dragons Belly. Traverse left along wall. Finish on top of large square block.

Sit down start, sweet moves using only the right side of the crack and stay on the face at the top.

The crack 1m left of Illusion/Going Steady. Up blocks to thin crack, up this to wide crack and top.

Sit start on good edges, long reach to lip, then mantel.

Easier variation is to use large detached block for the feet at start.

Easy wide crack

Start: The sharp arête between ‘Ivory Stairs’ and ‘Submission’.

Layaway up the sharp edge. 3 bolts, a number 3 friend, and wires provide the protection. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if an anchor is required, which also services climbs 16 - 20 (take bolt plates).

Slimpers with great feet to mantle

Start: 3m left of 'Seizure’.

Up initial crack and then an awkward move to turn the overlap on its left and get established on a small slab. Finish up chimney/corner.

Sweet layback problem

A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do.

Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney’.

A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof.

Start: The flared crack left of Hope. Bridge up the corner left of Hope, or do the jam section of Hope. Take a #4 Friend.

Up the corner 1m left of Hope, to the ledge, step up (crux) into the corner and jam to the top.

Start right hand on RH Arete then jump high to left arete then up, to blunt arete and either mantel or rock-up onto left foot.

the obvious finger crack that goes up then left across slab to another crack and up. Good fun.

A single aid rest was eliminated on the second ascent by J. Lattanzio and M, Colyvan, Feb 1982.

Start: About 1m right of ‘The Removalist’.

Up thin crack and wall to a better crack above which joins up with the top part of ‘The Removalist’.

Start: The middle line with the large dog-leg flake. Scramble up onto the ledge. Originally graded 20, but was up-graded to 22 when a loose spike was removed from just below the finger crack crux. From the ledge, step out right, then straight up over the huge flake, move right into the crack- corner, then finger-lock the bulge (crux).

Traverse crack from far right until left arete.

Sit down start on far left. Traverse right crimp then up obvious small corner. Easier, and not as much fun if you start standing under the small corner.

Sit start on good two hand edge with a high foot. Dyno up and left to good edge, then up into groove to top.

Start on good edge, up to open handed sloper, then up to tiny crimp, then sloper, high step and done.

SDS on finger locks then up crack

Delicate laybacking up the obvious feature to mantle top-out. Sit start around the same grade.

SDS the traverse left and top out. Various finishes, the longer the harder

Start: On the ledge between Charity and Hope.

Straight up the wall to top. No protection.

SDS and straight up

Easy mantle from Jug then up slab

Follow the bolts up the delicate slab. A good introduction to slabbing.

Delicate start up a rounded rail. It looks scary but gets better and easier and the fall isn't as bad as you think. V5 is for the 2 crimp moves into the rail, but if you start on the rail it's much easier.

Obvious line up the middle of the wall

Sit start under overhang on left side on well chalked undercling/sidepull. Go straight up on crimps to mantel top-out.

Start: The arête right of ‘Contrivia’ and left of ‘Fear And Loathing’. “Like shimmying up a Fridge”. Up the arête past wires in the crack and two fixed hangers. Belay off double bolts at top.

Standing start on tiny crimps and head up to small left facing corner, then top.

Start: The arête/wall between ‘Fear and Loathing’ and ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Up the arête/wall avoiding the cracks on either side and passing 3 BR’s and a #1 1/2 Friend placement. Some wires also useful.

The arête 2m left of Illusion. Small wires and 1 BR. Scramble up onto the Illusion ledge, then up the arête past BR near top. Belay/abseil chains.

Start in the good pocket, one slap and then mantle

Up the steep concave scoop then slab above. A medium sized cam is required for horizontal break at the top. Two bolt lower off.

Up the right arete.

Layback the arete to the right

From the end of T.S.T. traverse up R.

Start: 10m left of ‘Luce’.

Rightward trending crack to hand jam crack to top.

Start at the downstream end of the Toy Story Wall and traverse R through until the obvious no-hands-rest block at the start of TIAB.

Start on glued hold, up and right

Up groove from edges to slopers

The first rule of Fight Club is: You do not talk about Fight Club

From the block at the end of T.T. down-climb ramp to the two obvious juggy pockets on the arete. Set yourself and then hit the massive dyno. You can see the nice flat ledge that you're aiming for from the block.

Sit start on bottom right of obvious flake. Up flake then head left and up to top of flake. Avoid the corner and use the slight arete to the right of corner.

Underling lip and traverse

Start: 2m left of ‘Polynesian Lady’ and immediately left of small roof.

Up to the left of roof to off width corner. Continue to top

Start: 12m right of ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Loose in parts.

Up corner to roof, step left and up to top.

Start as for layabout and climb the nice hand crack; gear up to 2". When the hand crack ends follow right leading crack to the arête of "Going Steady" and finish up the arête past one carrot bolt, bring a bolt plate. Abseil off chain anchor.

Start: About 10m down left of ‘Potato Picker’. A small tree is growing out of the crack at half height.

Up crack to top.

Crimps up the face.

Start on good crimps, then tricky feet to top

Start in the crack on the left side of boulder with the thin little tree growing in it at half height. Climb crack not using the tree.

Only experienced bushwalkers or rock climbers should attempt this trip. Helmets recommended. The party will need some large Hexes or Friends, and approx. 10 long slings with carabineers to sling bushes, the only protection after the start crack.

Start: The junction of the two rivers. Move up the ridge through bushes and rotten hand holds till you are confronted with a steep wall, split by a chimney. The chimney has been done but it is easier to move about 40m left till you come to a crack in a corner. This corner is the only place where you need Hexes or Cams.

Climb the groove to the crest of the ridge. Continue up and along the ridge using slings and carabineers as running belays. A step in the ridge (a bridge) is the first major obstacle. Running belays are difficult to find here so don’t fall off. Further along the ridge there are two large rock towers ('The Tooth of Death'). Negotiate these on the right-hand side, or better go up and rap off.

Eventually you will come to a large rainforest saddle, full of vines and creepers. The best route out of the saddle is via the extreme left-hand side. The first thirty metres is loose and dangerous- take care. Swing up through bushes and loose handholds, gradually moving across to the right. At this point the drop-off into the Chandler (on the right) is frightening. A few short walls, a little more scrambling and you will be back on the gorge rim. Head up onto the walking track and back to the car.

Below the arête just right of the original line. Up the arête passing two bolts to join the original route at it’s third bolt and on up to the chain.

Climb the obvious hand crack on the east face of boulder.

Mantle up the Arete

Start: 2m left of ‘Double Trouble’.

Up thin hand crack and wide groove above.

Mantle on face

Start: First line left of break in cliff, 3m right of ‘Chunder Chimney’. Due to undergrowth at the base of the middle section of the cliff, it is advisable to access this climb by descending one of the easy chimneys above.

The slightly overhanging jam crack. (marked)

Easy hold, dyno to right jug

Obvious crack on southeast face. Climb up or down it.

Nice jams, then layback the flake to top. Pretty sweet

Start: The slabby arête at the extreme right hand end of the buttress. #4 Friend and 2 BRs. Belay off 2 bolts.

Scramble up ledges to the base of the slab. Move up the right side of arête, BR, then step to the left side (crux) and up to the top, BR.

Start: 3m right of ‘Submission’.

Scramble up broken rock and into chimney and on to top.

Up left arete.

1m right of Salubrious