Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V2 | ★★ The groin transfer
Up the easy rail and then bust out right | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★ Gecko
Start 2m right of Mini, matching a sloper on the lip. Up right to holds in the thin seam, then mantle onto the slab with difficulty. Frustrating yet addictive. FA: AR, Jun 2022 | Cathedral Rock National Park | |||
V0 | ★ R5
Up easy layback rail just right of 'R4'. | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★★ The Diamond
Thin crimps up centre of face to sloping mantel. Variations exist. | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V4 | ★ VN1 Scott's mantle *
Start on large flake at chest height | 2m | Mt Yarrowyck | ||
17 | ★★ Cross wired
Start as for WWOS then diagonally right up the slab FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022 | 8m, 4 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ VN5 Jeff's excellent problem ***
Straight up from right sidepull | 3m | Mt Yarrowyck | ||
V7 | ★★★ The West Face
Okish crimps, meh footers, dyno to sloper lip FA: Alan Ezzy, 16 Jan 2016 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V4 | ★★ Hard arete
Arete to left of crack | 5m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | ★ Salad tongs
Nice juggy fun | 2m | Beulah | ||
17 | ★ Invalid Whale
Start up Whale ale then traverse right after 2 bolts and finish up Invalid. Single bolt lower off. FA: Aidan Smith, 2012 | 15m, 4 | Beulah | ||
21 | ★ Rage
Start: 4m right of ‘Last Straw’, a short wall in an alcove. Up wall past 3BR’s to double bolt belay on ledge. FA: Al Stephens, Gavin Dean & Anita Gordon, 1990 | 8m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ||
V2 | Dyno direct
Eliminate the massive jug and just mantle | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V4 | ★★★ Gordo's Block
Sit start in crack, up under roof then very burly like, get out from under roof to a very long reach to an edge, then up. | 3m | Mt Yarrowyck | ||
26 | ★★ Rodney’s Garibaldi Metwurst
Originally a very dangerous route with the possibility of decking at the crux. Has since been rebolted to satisfy the trembling hordes. An absolute bum-stinger! Start: As for Sweet Surrender. Directly up from first bolt on S.S. then trending left from second bolt to third then up (fourth bolt) to exit up groove. Double-bolt belay. FA: Ben Christian, 1995 Maint: 24 Feb 2023 | 10m, 4 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
17 | ★ Fugue State
Start: The best line on the boulder just down (approximately 40 m) from the car park. Up crack, through overlap to ledge, then up offwidth crack to top. FA: Mark Colyvan, Ed Sharpe & G. Pritchard, 1981 | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | NE20
| 4m | Stonehenge | ||
26 | ★★★ The Schnoz
Technical face climbing on incuts and then intricate arete and wall to get to the top of the boulder. Classic. May be easier/harder but who knows how to grade blunt arête slab cruxes? FA: Alan Ezzy, 2015 | 20m, 7 | Cathedral Rock National Park | ||
20 | ★★ Mad Woman's Breakfast
Start: Up the crack through the bulge to the top. Strenuous jamming. Take a #4 Friend. FA: Al Stephens, 1981 | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
21 | ★★ Headbanger
Start: The bolted wall 10m left of ‘Firestorm’. Up wall/arête past a #4 Friend placement and four BR’s. Double bolt anchor on top. (Hard to find). FA: Al Stephens & Larry Dixon, 1987 | 15m, 4 | Ebor Gorge | ||
20 | ★ Moistened Bint
Start: Right next to the waterfall about 20m right of M.R. Can be done most of the time except at high water levels - grade 4 descent by Kayak when the river is in flood. Up the slick wall past three bolts. Wires for the belay. FA: Brian Cork, 1996 | 7m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
18 | ★★ Pushback
Start in the gully crack, up left through some thin moves and link into Sideslip FA: Brendan Heywood, Ben Vincent & Todd Free, 21 May 2023 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
16 | ★ Svea
Pleasant and technical for the grade. Start: Right of FHA. Up the wall past two bolts and some pro. to belay in breaks at top. FA: J. Gracie & Gordon Low, 1995 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V9 | ★★ Matty's Dyno
Right of The Fluming. Stand start on 2 shit edges, jump to top. Grade may be off. FA: Matt Wrigley, 2001 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections
SDS through the sloper steps, then traverse right and around the corner to the rail and then either up or across the face FA: carol lee & Ben Vincent, 25 Sep 2021 | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | ★ NE5
Start at horizontal crack, crimps and smear with good hold right at the back. Trends slightly left to right, stay out of the crack. Felt quite hard for the grade. | 3m | Stonehenge | ||
V2 | ★ Gymnastic
Juggy but awkward | 1m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | Right of Tree
Start half a metre right of the crack with the tree in it. Up thin crimps to join the horizontal crack above. It is a elimination variation so try and not to use the crack to your left. | 5m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | SW5
Mantle | Stonehenge | |||
V1 | ★ M10
Sit down start. Climb the corner. | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★★ Broken glass
Up the slab | 1m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★ SW9
| 3m | Stonehenge | ||
V2 | ★ Aza's Problem
Same start as Back Side Traverse, but go straight up on edges to a jug FA: Aaron Wells | 3m | Cathedral Rock National Park | ||
V1 | ★ Whale Tale
Awkward bulge | Stonehenge | |||
V2 | ★★ Pocket fest
Up the south face, | 4m | Mt Yarrowyck | ||
V1 | ★ Silent scream
Up the middle of the left void, weird funky moves | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★★ Space jam
Starts 1-2m of Evacuation station on the great flake. Up flake, into horizontal roof crack and then grunt around the rooflet into the open. A stellar jamming test piece. FA: Ben Vincent, 3 May 2020 | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★★ Catacomb Roof Right
Sit start on large jug under overhanging face on huge jug. Up to more jugs then slopers and mantel top out. | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★★ The Crystal Method
Awesome moves up the technical arete, a classic. Low sit start off opposing sidepulls, pull up to the crimpy flake, then up the chiselled arete feature. FA: AR, 14 Feb 2022 | 4m | Cathedral Rock National Park | ||
V1 | Directly
| 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ Dagobah
As for the full traverse but take a lower hard line | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | Thin Crack
On the north face of the boulder is right leading thin crack. Climb the face starting at the bottom third of crack. Good crimps. | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | R1
Thin slabby moves | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★★ Warmup
Up rough nodules, down climb for other problems | 3m | Mt Yarrowyck | ||
V0 | T6
Start right hand on RH Arete then jump high to left arete then up | 2m | Mt Yarrowyck | ||
V0 | ★ M4
The arete | Mt Yarrowyck | |||
15 | ★★ Hubris
FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022 | 6m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
{US} V1 | ★★ Sketch
Delicate balancing up boulder, just right of centre FA: Artie Schultz, 2009 | Beulah | |||
14 | Jail Bait
Start: The corner near a river oak right of Another One Bites The Dust. Up corner crack to slanting roof, right onto edge, then right up flake crack. FA: John Lattanzio & G. Pritchard, 1981 | 30m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★ Magic garden
Jump to the large edge then a couple of hard moves then easy to the top. Please dont hurt the plant. | 6m | Mt Yarrowyck | ||
23 | ★ Trajectory Direct
The original line climbed in ‘82, at grade 18, by Jack Latanzio has long since fallen away leaving a much harder, direct, line. Start: The overhanging dihedral right of P.A.D. Up technical corner past 2 bolts to pull onto low angled wall (bolt) and up to belay as for Yoda. FA: Gordon Low, 1997 Maint: 3 Mar 2023 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★ Moonrise
Step up on obvious block and trend up and L then to top. | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | ★ Easy target
Start on the jug, into crack. Warm up and also a descent | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1/2 | ★★ SW16 Surly Steve and the finger bang
Finger bang surly Steve in his rocky eyeballs to glory. SDS with two shallow monos wide apart, up to crescent. | 3m | Stonehenge | ||
17 | ★★ Overhead compartment
Start around the right corner. Boulder problem mantle onto the ledge then easier to top. FA: Brendan Heywood, Thor Burey & Alec Eastwood, 31 Mar 2023 | 8m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
20 | ★★ Bootleg
The obvious corner left of Savage Amusement. Start from the same ledge. Up the crack. Belay to avoid rope drag. Wander right across ledge to finish up Savage Amusement. FA: Mark Colyvan & Ed Sharpe, 1981 | 15m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
20 | ★★ Prime Cut
Start: 1m left of ‘Aeroplane Jelly’. Up fist/offwidth crack to a horizontal break a few metres from the top. An 'interesting' couple of moves right lead into the crack of Aeroplane Jelly. Finish up the last few moves of Aeroplane Jelly. FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall (M0), 1976 FFA: Richard Curtis & Mark Colyvan, 1984 | 20m | Ebor Gorge | ||
8 | Pink Freud | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
12 | ★ Pluck a Duck
Start: First line on this section. of cliff. Up wall past 3 bolts, heading right under bush to belay FA: Al Stephens & Ben Christian, 1994 | 7m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V4 | ★ Unknown as well
Sit start at tiny dihedral to the left of detached block at base of boulder, layback and throw up to sloper then latch huge edge, mantel onto it and slab to top. | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | NE3
Nice face climb | 5m | Stonehenge | ||
V1 | ★★ Yoda's mantle
Start on crimps then move to lip and mantle | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★★ Alopecia
Across the water from the Jumping boulder. Perfect sculpted castle hill problem. Sit start on side pull, slap up to dish, then pebble wrestle your way up. FA: Alan Ezzy, 4 Oct 2015 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★★ Remembrance
A fun unique V shaped mantle problem FA: Nathan H., 11 Nov 2018 | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★ Kunai
Start on obvious blocky jug, climb arete FA: Arthur Schultz, 26 Sep 2014 | 3m | Cathedral Rock National Park | ||
18 | ★★ The Acolytes Cauldron
Start in the cauldron, mantle left, then diagonally right across the face to a bulging crux finish FA: Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent, 29 Jan 2023 | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
22 | ★★★ Cloud Grazer
Start on the large rock deep in the chasm, fairly straight up past 6 bolts to anchor on ledge FA: Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent, 18 Feb FFA: Michael Moore & Brendan Heywood, 29 Feb | 18m, 6 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★★ No big deal
Sit start with feet on the chock stone, up great crack. Don't fall. FA: Nathan H., 11 Nov 2018 | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★ Traverse
Stand start the traverse on the back side of the boulder. | 4m | Beulah | ||
V2 | ★★ Extension start
Alternate longer almost lie down start | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0+ | ★ Lichen eater
Just to the right of the tree on the main face. Tricky little sharp crimp start then up to those gorgeous features. Set: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015 FA: Deon Heemskerk, 12 Nov 2015 | 3m | Bendemeer | ||
17 | ★ Yuppie
Start: 1m left of Reunion. A series of boulder problems and ledges. Up little wall, step left, up left diagonal then clip BR right past BR to ledge, clip another BR then up (crux) to top. FA: Al Stephens & Mark Colyvan, 1988 | 18m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
{US} V0 | Thorn in my Pride
Start in blackberry bush and up crimps. FA: Todd Free, 2006 | 2m | Beulah | ||
{US} V0- | ★ Bomber Flake
Layback up the detached flake. FA: Todd Free, 2007 | 2m | Beulah | ||
V1 | ★ Shroomery
Sit start then up on the big holds. FA: Michael Tonen, 2011 | 3m | Beulah | ||
V0 | ★ Right Arete
Sit start at bottom of right arete, climb to top. | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ Dyno or do not dyno
There is no try. From the good starting jug just dyno up to lip | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★★ thing
Sit start with both hands on on the right jug of Quickdraw Direct, pull up and slap, then slap again to sloper and mantel. Hint: get your right foot high and right. | 1m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | Unknown Var.
Start to the right of the finger crack and without using it, proceed up the very thin slab. | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★★★ huge rail
Up layback feature then onto huge rail FA: Ben Vincent & Benji Dutaillis, 18 Sep 2020 | 5m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V6 | ★★★ The crack SDS
Sit down start with foot locks. Lots of offwidth grunting FA: Diego Lopez Iturralde, 15 Jul 2021 | 4m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★ Carls Dream
| Mt Yarrowyck | |||
22 | ★★ Inertia
This route used to be an absolute bottler until early ‘99 when an unfortunate victim tore the entire flake out of the roof. The route’s still possible, albeit at a harder grade than the original 22. Here is the original description for history’s sake. start: The roof about 10 m down left of Bootleg. Exciting climbing on big holds. Up crack to roof, then move out left via the crack in the roof, and up the wall (crux) to belay ledge. Walk off. Has been done post flake falling off and is around the same grade. FA: Mark Colyvan & John Lattanzio, 1980 | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★★ Old school
Layback the crack and top out on the left face | Upper Gara Gorge | |||
V3 | ★ Crack
Climb the thin crack. | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★★ Hectocotylus
Sit start and slap up the right leaning short spire FA: Brendan Heywood, 3 May 2020 | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | ★★ Unlatched Lockout Leg
Up obvious features trending R and L to finish. Don't have a RUD into the water | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★ Half Moon
Stand start. Up arete finishing on little jugs at top. | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★★ Whitegoods with a view
An instant classic! Looks daunting but easier than it looks. From the cave walk left and bash uphill for 15m. After stacking your mat's, start on the good left foot and then compression slap your way to the safety of the jug and then side mantle to the top. FA: Ben Vincent, 2012 | 5m | Mt Yarrowyck | ||
V6 | ★★★ The Horseshoe
Stylishly links the two Catacombe climbs. Start matching on the sloper/lump and chuck feet on where you can. Strong moves down through the 'Catacomb Roof Right' route in reverse (try saying that quickly), before traversing low and transitioning into the Catacombs route. Beware of the dreaded dab during transition. FFA: Nathan H., 2012 | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
22 | ★★★ Mountain Berry Blast
Starts on a DBB on a ledge left of end the first pitch of Geronimo. Up first short slab to ledge, onto the right leaning rail and then step out onto the face with care. Up through a sea of jugs, pinches and sidepulls uncharacteristic for gara. DBB belay. FA: Michael Moore & Brendan Heywood, 8 Sep 2022 | 25m, 8 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | ★ M6
Variety of thin crimps | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | Slab
On the east face of boulder climb slab with seam to horizontal break, which is usually wet, then left and to top. | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0 | ★ Backfoot Bear Hugger
Start as for CB. Pull through & mantle, shuffle L & naviagte the top-out where the two boulders meet. FA: Ben Vincent, 13 Jun 2020 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V1 | ★★ S3
Sit start on the flake and head up to sloper then top. Many variations exist to make it harder or easier. | 2m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V0- | M5
Undercling overlap and up | Mt Yarrowyck | |||
V5 | ★★ M1 Blue haired Matt
Stars standing on the ground with boulder close behind | 4m | Mt Yarrowyck | ||
23 | ★★★ The Fuckwit And The Protégé
Start just left of GJ, mainly using the big crack until traversing left to mantle the ledge. Some delicate moves gain a good stance before the crux, fire out a very thin crux then head slightly left over the lip to DBB. FFA: Michael Moore, 28 Apr 2023 | 20m, 12 | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ Footloose
Sit start on obvious L-hand layback feature, R-hand arete & small feet. Up to slopers & finish as for PS. FA: Ben Vincent, 13 Jun 2020 | 3m | Upper Gara Gorge | ||
V2 | Mini
Middle boulder strange rockover FA: Arthur Schultz | 2m | Cathedral Rock National Park |